Hi there!
My Tz has a blown f116. I'm just a noob so I'd like to know how to understand what a particular fuse does, just from the manual. Is it possible to understand it from there? How?
Thank you very much
Hi there!
My Tz has a blown f116. I'm just a noob so I'd like to know how to understand what a particular fuse does, just from the manual. Is it possible to understand it from there? How?
Thank you very much
What did the manual say about it ?
It says +12 volt secondary.
So things operating on +12 volt have stopped. Until you replace the fuse. If it blows again, until you repair your board.
LTG : )™
There sure is.
F116 fuses the unregulated 12VDC.heres a pic that shows all of the fuses.
If it continues to fail, the likely cause is BR5, which you can test with a DMM. You'll need to remove the board.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=General#Testing_a_Bridge_Rectifier
image.jpg
--
Chris Hibler - CARGPB #31
http://www.Team-EM.com
http://webpages.charter.net/chibler/Pinball/index.htm
http://www.PinWiki.com - The new place for pinball repair info
Thank you very much for your patience, guys
LTG:
Almost everything on my playfield is working. Only 2 (if I recall well) lamps are not working even if I change the lamps. Could changing f116 fix it?
Then I have this problem: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tz-switch-problem-on-column-4
Are these two things related?
Chris:
Thanks!
I'll change it and see what happens.
Could you please tell me what page is that one?
Because I found only page 1-47 where it shows the fuses but nothing else. Thanks!
Quoted from JDee:Almost everything on my playfield is working. Only 2 (if I recall well) lamps are not working even if I change the lamps. Could changing f116 fix it?
No, depending on which lamps, GI will be 6 volts AC, feature lamps 6 volts DC, flashers get nuked with 20 volts DC. None of them are 12 volts.
LTG : )™
Quoted from JDee:Are these two things related?
Probably not, but I would solve this problem first and then go back to the switch matrix problem.
Ok so I'm ordering some parts. in case it's the br5, what's his code name?
I'll buy it in in advance so if it will fail, I'll already have it!
Hello-
From someone who learned the hard way when first getting into the hobby, don't let your original power driver board be your guinea pig for your first board repair. Sure that big BR looks easy to swap out, but the traces on the board and can be burned so easily with just one slip of the soldering iron. My first BR repair worked, but the I learned later that I basically ruined the board with my crude repair using a $30 soldering iron. Unless you are going to be doing a lot of board repair, it's not worth the time and effort to learn how to solder boards...at least in my opinion. At a minimum if you really want to learn how to solder boards, get an old board off eBay and practice for a few hours first before jumping into your first repair...it is definitely harder than it looks. You also need to make sure you have the right equipment...just a cheap soldering iron will not due.
I only have three machines, so whenever one of my boards tests out with a bad component, I just send it off to Clive at Coin-Op Cauldron for a full test and refresh. Not only does it fix your problem, it also proactively replaces weak components that are inevitably going to fail in the future...especially on a TZ.
You can get an aftermarket board for a machine, but you can't replace the original factory board if it is ruined. I leave all of my board repairs to the experts.
Thanks, Rob
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