Quoted from bowz:....I'm tired of it, and I'm very optimistic this will be the last time I'll have to deal with it.
It will be the last time!!!
- Ingo
(Topic ID: 65765)
Linked Games
Twilight Zone
Bally, 1993
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider german-pinball.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from yoshootme:not to hijack but if i were to try and fix the opto's on the clock would anyone know what I would need to order? ie the u opto's for sure. anything else? (i fixed my clock by buying a new board (rottendog i think??) because 2 of the opto's were not working!) still had issues and 'really fixed it' by buying a new minute hand. solved the rest of the problems. trying to learn to solder and I figure why not try to put the new opto's in.
The OPTOs used on the original board were specially manufactures for Williams and no longer produced and obsolete since a long time. You need the special type QVE11233.086, NOT the "normal" QVE11233 without the suffix 086. Even if you find one of these, they are horrible expensive (about 10 USD each), and you need eight of them, what makes a summary of about 80,00 USD alone for the OPTOS.
See the comment of Ed Krzycki from GPE in the following post. Ed is one of the most recognized experts for pinball-machines in the world to my opinion.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/FY0bSS7UqaA
Ed writes the following:
" ...The German board is the only one that fixes the direct driving of the switch matrix problem. You can use everyday slotted opto switches on these boards due to using external driver circuitry for the switch matrix rather than the optical switch. A much, MUCH better design. The other clock boards must use high current drive optos with low voltage drop....custom ordered parts. If the opto dies (and it will) then there is only one source for these..."
AND ... you did not solve the heat problems then!!
Don´t let this happen to your clock
- Ingo
IMGP7964.jpg 4 weeks later
Quoted from gweempose:I'm about to swap out my blue clock housing for a red one. My clock works perfectly, but the gears are a little loud. I figure I might as well address the issue while I have the clock apart. I recall reading that there is some kind of lubricant that you can use on the gears. Does anyone have any recommendations?
Look for a plastic compatible Teflon lube.
This one is plastic compatible and not expensive:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Lube-3-oz-Tube-Synthetic-Grease-with-Syncolon-PTFE-21030/202932687#.UnvMlPnclN4
Your gears will run smooth as never before.
This seems good to, but never tested it by mysyelf:
ebay.com link: DOW MOLYKOTE EM 30L Synthetic PAO Grease for Plastics
- Ingo
1 year later
Quoted from ryanwanger:Thanks I'll look into this.
I did the LED upgrade kit which also has new resistors and header pins and connector for the spot where the two boards connect.
I'm only resisting the Ingo board because I've spent so much time and I'm so close - I'd hate to give up now.
But then I fear it will probably crap out in a few weeks and I'll need to do it anyway.
Respect for your endurance, indeed it is a great feeling to get the clock working alone.
But if you have ever considered having my clock-board, here is a hint to my special offer for pinsiders only:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twilight-zone-owners-club/page/17#post-2423434
Quoted from Jenk540i:I'll plug a new board again. I rebuilt the OEMS several times and had them work; yes its a great feeling. But went to one of Ingo's boards nearly a year ago and it's not even glitched one time since, and the game gets played a lot. Absolutely one of the best technologies out there, ranks right up with the GLM ball trough boards for trouble-free play. I love mine, just waiting for him to send me some replacement LEDS so I can swap out the cool whites for warm - want to get back to that more original look, but that's just a taste/cosmetic issue and he has so many choices for that!
Great product, great communication. Can't go wrong and you'll be glad you can turn on the game and not spend the whole time watching to see if the clock is working correctly.
Thanks for your praise.
Please send me your adress via PM and I send you a set of warm-white and blue LEDs for free ( normal shipping without tracking number - not so expensive )
2 years later
Quoted from Cserold:Thanks! I will take a look!
Did you install the 4 upper optos the correct way??? All notched edges must show to OUTSIDE!!!!!
See installation guide here:
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/tz-clock-instruction-english.html
and download the newest version as PDF here:
http://www.german-pinball-modular.de/get_file.php?id=28051417&vnr=108585
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Milwaukee, WI
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider german-pinball.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
