(Topic ID: 121736)

Twilight Zone Clock Issue Leads to F115, F116, J112 and Opto 12V

By cheshirefilms

9 years ago


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  • 20 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by dluth
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

I tried today to fix my TZ clock once and for all. Figured it was broken anyway, may as well give a shot at eliminating the "slop" in the hands.

Well, I thought it went well..until I screwed the clock back into place and all hell broke loose. The Ingo clock board literally started to SMOKE and I promptly unplugged all, but the damage had been done. I know I need new ICs LM339 after talking to Ingo...BUT...

I now also have an error message on startup, F115, F116, J112 and Opto 12V error. If I try a game WILL start but balls won't come out of the trough.

My current plan is to take my clock board to my local board guru to fix then, once fixed, have him reassemble it for me so I can just take it home and, hopefully, plug it back in and have it work.

That said, I have three issues I need help with now:

(1) make sure this time the clock is gonna work, no smoke especially. -and-

(2) resolve the error messages above so I can resume play ASAP and without having to pay a tech to come on site.

I appreciate your kind help!!

#2 9 years ago

I'd have to look at the manual again, but if you plugged that clock in wrong, there could be a possibility you sent 12V to the switch matrix and fried any/all 3 of the switch matrix ICs on the MPU.

Only times I ever got F115 and F116 errors were from a fried U20

#3 9 years ago

Which IC Chips should I get for the repair, just to be in the safe side? Sorry I'm such a newb to non-cosmetic repairs, I only just learned how to repair a flipper yesterday..

#4 9 years ago

Before, I start trying to tell you there is a problem on the boards in the backbox, let me review the schematics. It's been a long time since I had a TZ and I'm not sure what I have proposed may even be possible

First thing I would check is to make sure Fuses F115 and F116 are good.

Sorry for getting ahead of myself there

#5 9 years ago

Ok so first I'll just switch out those fuses, just to be safe (I don't have the doo hickey which tests fuses)

Then..if that doesn't work..

#6 9 years ago

Check the fuses with a multimeter not with the naked eye(I dont think the fuses blew but doesnt hurt to check),Lm339 are mostly on the opto board under playfield.If i were you i would buy a brand new clock board they work better and less heat.Was the power on when working on the game?Always power off!! and see if your U20 IC is socketed on your cpu board.That will need to be changed out.If it is not socketed you need to send it out for repair and theirs a lot of pinsiders who will help.

#7 9 years ago

Agree with jwo825 and pinmike to check fuses first. Then ensure that you actually have 12v on J116 and at the opto board. That error seems to pop up if the optos are out for some reason.

How do things look in the switch test? Is it just the optos out or are there other switch problems.

If I remember right, LM339s should be able to handle 12V without getting crispy (though my memory could be wrong). People typically fry then by send coil voltage through them. I wouldn't pull chips unless you rule out everything else first.

#8 9 years ago

It doesn't appear to be socketed but a tech friend may be able to come my way during TPF to help with that if that's all it needs. I don't have a multimeter or know how to use one (yet), but then again both issues would be addressed at the same time..

The board with the issue was a new ingo LED board. That's what he was referring to with my fried lm339, he visually saw one of the chips had melted. I think I may have mis aligned a molex when I plugged it in while trying to reseat the connectors when the board wasnt working right.

Evan Smith the pinsmith installed the board but I think he failed to appreciate the "slop" in the clock once the two board system gave way to one. I tried to stabilize it with a washer but clearly I didn't make things better. Hes since fallen off the earth. Even before melt-gate it didn't work right despite my best effort.

#10 9 years ago

You must have plugged the clock connectors wrong,Switch test is your friend in this problem.See if the optos register

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from fitzpatricksrus:

If I remember right, LM339s should be able to handle 12V without getting crispy

You are correct fitzpatricksrus 12v can be handled.

#12 9 years ago
Quoted from pinmike:

You must have plugged the clock connectors wrong,Switch test is your friend in this problem.See if the optos register

Using the single switch test I found #71-76 and #81-87 had (A) next to them. Not sure if this is what you meant me to do or if you wanted me to try something in the edge test. Not sure how that test works or what it tests, though

#13 9 years ago

I can't replace 115 right now, need to pick up fuses. Not sure if its out or not but visibly it looks very thin..

As for the wiki article all the LEDs listed are turned on..

image.jpgimage.jpg
#14 9 years ago

I agree that the fuse "looks" fine.
But you really should remove it and buzz it with your meter set to continuity.

Also measure DC voltage between the backbox ground braid and the 12VR test point.
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#15 9 years ago

Since you're poking around with the switch test, is switch 24 closed? It's hardwired closed. If it's not then you probably have a board problem or a loose connector.

#16 9 years ago

Switch 24 is closed

#17 9 years ago

It doesnt sound like you have a multi meter - I would run out and grab one before you do anyhing else, they aren't expensive, and you are guaranteed to need it again after this.

#18 9 years ago

Message on startup, F115, F116, J112 and Opto 12V error.
I have the same problem with mine DM.The problem was one of the the two connectors from the down-left of the Power Board.Check it and replace it-J116 or J118

If you have some short,check if you have these 12v on the Power board-check the test points that cares for this voltage

#19 9 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

It doesnt sound like you have a multi meter - I would run out and grab one before you do anyhing else, they aren't expensive, and you are guaranteed to need it again after this.

Got that multi meter, turned out #116 had blown. Replaced it, TZ is BACK!!

#20 9 years ago

Nice one, it's a great feeling when you're back playing again

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