(Topic ID: 323044)

Twilight Zone and Indiana Jones (semi-scratch) builds

By EStroh

63 days ago

Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 111 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by EStroh
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders


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There are 111 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 3.
#101 9 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

By far, this is the most significant pinball "mod" I have come up with. I know, it looks deceptively simple but this piece has allowed me to move countless pins into and out of the bed of my truck by myself without ANY stress or wear to the cabinets. The idea is that I wanted to eliminate any potential damage to the front or back of the cabinet by sliding (scraping) it into place while it was being loaded. I built this simple pin-moving device that:
1. Creates a "nest" for the pin to rest in, so the bottom of the cabinet isn't subjected to the stress of sliding across a surface that could damage the front or back of the cabinet. The platform slides, not the pin cabinet.
2. It creates a means to lift the pin by the edges instead of the bottom. A much more sturdy way of lifting the cabinet.
3. Any under cabinet lights, subwoofer or headphone wiring are protected from damage.
4. The runners on the underside of the platform work like sled runners to slide the pin in and out of my truck bed like a drawer.
5. The runners also sit within the trucks bed's ridges which reduce any shifting side to side.
6. The boarders around the edge of the platform make a nice buffer to keep a 4-sided spacing around the pin.
7. Only minimal strapping is required to keep the pin from shifting, since the platform itself doesn't allow any movement.
8. I can install/remove the legs easily while the platform is in place do to the cutouts at the four corners.
I slide this under any pin I move prior to using my Harbor Freight jack to lift it off the floor and start the loading process. It stays under the pin until it reaches its destination and the legs installed once again.
I really should take a photo of it in use - maybe on a later post.
This one however, I made for standard width pins. To move the Twilight Zone and Indy I need to build a widebody version.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Need to make one of these. Would save $$$ in damage to a pin not using.

#102 9 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Back to work on the pins.
I took some time to re-organize this part of the shop. 6 pins take up a lot of room, so I like to put them all on castors so I can easily push them around. Most everything you see here is pinball related (and note the stack of ColorDMD boxes on the top shelf). The indy is temporarily up on the tool chest so I can put the side cabinet decals on.
And yes, I attach pool noodles on the top of the backboxes so the playfields (when upright) don't leave a mark.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Extra points if you can figure out 2 of the 3 pins under the plastic

Feel like I can't guess what is under the plastic since you just told me 2 days ago when we saw each other.

#103 9 days ago
Quoted from CaptChaos_02:

Feel like I can't guess what is under the plastic since you just told me 2 days ago when we saw each other.

Super clean '72 Fireball - my only EM. You can see just a piece of its back box.
HS - kinda easy to tell
Congo - no way to tell on that one.

#104 9 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

Recessing the main bolts on the side of the cabinet. I also grind the heads down so that I minimize the amount I have to recess. The larger one hold the playfield, the smaller one is used to activate the hinge on the slide. You might think that the reduced amount of wood that is left to support the bolts (and therefore the playfield) reduces the strength of the bolted connection and ... you'd be right. However, these games were built like tanks and ment to be moved around a lot. Not the case these days. Also the large spacer plate that is on the inside of the cabinet that was used in W/B machines really helps to bind everything together without allowing for any movement.
[quoted image]

I've gotten some PM's about how I hold the Forstner bit in place when recessing the bolts. Answer: I place it within a hole saw bit and hold the hole saw bit up to the cabinet. The hole saw bit doesn't spin, just the Forstner bit within it. This way, the bit doesn't "walk" when drilling at a location with a pre-existing hole.

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#105 8 days ago
Quoted from EStroh:

The hole saw bit doesn't spin, just the Forstner bit within it.

That's a clever trick. Definitely using that.

#106 8 days ago

Some details.

I like lighting up the Pincups on my machines. Awhile ago I had these glasses made to go in each one - includes an actual pinball and my avatar.

I plug these into the empty 12V pins on the coin door board.

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#107 7 days ago

Spiral ramp installed. Thanks Davi !
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Even the hitchhiker gives it a thumbs up!

#108 7 days ago

It's moving day!

Time to try out the new wide-body version of my pin-mover panel (or plank, or platform... I don't know what to call it). Maybe cabinet cradle?

Anyway, I use a couple straps to lift it up to the bottom of my machine before I slide the cart underneath. On my standard body version I have eye hooks bolted onto the panel for this and I use bungees instead of the straps.
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I use a foam block to extend the height, since my truck bed is higher than the lift will reach.
IMG_2759 (resized).jpgThe panel clears the tailgate. The runners under the panel (not visible here) let the whole thing slide in like a drawer. The runners also fit into the truck bed ridges and prevent side-to-side movement.
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Plenty of room around the boarders to keep the pin from being able to hit anything. I still strap the whole thing down though.
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Finally out of the shop and set up at home! Time for a long 4-day weekend of play. Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

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#109 1 day ago

Arguably the best part about a PinSound system is the ability to load multiple sound packages onto a machine and be able to cycle through them on the fly. For Getaway I've made many versions and I've found it helpful to have them listed on an apron card so I can keep track of the order. Here's my favorite 8 that I made for that one.

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Others who have come before me have done an awesome job developing very creative sound packages for Twilight Zone. No need to come up with my own - I just installed my 4 favorites that I downloaded from the PinSound site and made up an apron card to keep track of them:

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#110 17 hours ago

Now that I have the machine home I'm able to really spend some time working out the final details while seeing it under different lighting conditions now that it's not under the glare of the shop lights. Here's what I came up with: I added a spiral decal for the back playfield panel, then I used a UV light strip to give it a little "glow" - and just a touch of pink light give it a little flair. Certainly not stock, but this game was never intended to look like a stock machine.

I'm so glad I decided to go with the clear ramp!

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#111 17 hours ago

Bouncing around to the other TZ for a moment: Today I received all the wire harnesses I'll need to complete that machine! Thank you Dimitri for your awesome work! (JIMAKOST). It looks like a mess, but since everything is labeled it shouldn't be too much of a problem... just time consuming (famous last words... ha).
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If your recall earlier in this thread I inherited an empty cabinet and a playfield with no wire harness terminations. Half of the new wire harnesses in the above photo will be spliced onto these cut wires. The rest will be used for all the cabinet wiring.

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Lots of work ahead on this one!

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