(Topic ID: 251602)

Twighlight Zone Questions

By Sasecool

4 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 19 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by Tlamb
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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Linked Games

#1 4 years ago

Hey all...first post here, so forgive me if it's the wrong place!

I just bought my first pinball...twighlight zone.. novice to owning one... I just got it, and noticed a a problem with the gumball opto...I fixed it by fixing a connection. Works great!

I had a couple of questions... it seems like a lot of users have a more lit up version of it... I cant tell if it's because I have bulbs out (I'm sure a few are) but I cant help but wonder if people have LED / modded it to be brighter.

Does anyone have a picture of a standard tz with the lights all on? I will go through the diagnostics..but I feel like that would be better to "see it". Like I'm pretty sure I'm backdrop is supposed to be lit...but all I see are the twinkly lights.

Also, my ball shooter only works if I hit it with my hand (as opposed to spring back). When I pull the knob, it springs back, but only slightly. It doesnt look like the springs are broke. I am wondering if the spring is detached..can anyone send a video of it in action so I can troubleshoot it?

Thanks... I'm so excited!

#3 4 years ago

Comet sunlight led should be good for GI. Some color match under playfield.
The shooter spring is weak to be able to make the skill shot. A full pull should send the ball into the hole and out to the playfield.

Great first pin!

#4 4 years ago
Quoted from Sasecool:

. I cant tell if it's because I have bulbs out (I'm sure a few are)

Tests - Lamp Test - All Lamps - look for burned out ones.

TZ shipped with #44 GI's, if replaced with #47 bulbs it will be dimmer ( done to save on GI connectors ) or depending on LEDs used could be brighter.

Quoted from Sasecool:

When I pull the knob, it springs back, but only slightly.

TZ uses a softer spring to aid in getting the skill shot right up the shooter lane.

LTG : )

#5 4 years ago

Here is about 300 pictures of anything you could want to see.
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/twilight-zone/gallery

Here is a video of a stock machine in action so you can have something for reference as to what is working and what isn't. Also a great tutorial.

As to the launcher, you can replace the Spring. I'll let others tell you the exact parts but replacements of every type can be found here.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/6?VIEW_SIZE=60&VIEW_INDEX=12&view=card&sortOrder=SortProductPrice:DEFAULT_PRICE

Most folks LED their machines and that can run from $100-$250. If you are going to do that replace the rubbers at the same time. I like Comet 2 SMD Natural light but you will get many different opinions. https://www.cometpinball.com/

Welcome to the addiction and good luck!

#6 4 years ago

I looked after looking at this...the lights are LED.. 6.3v,.. but they all are kind of dull...I'm wondering if they're not that great and should change.

I also include here a video of the shooter... is the spring just bad?

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from Sasecool:

but they all are kind of dull.

What number on the bayonet ones ? #44 or #47 ?

LTG : )

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from Sasecool:

I also include here a video of the shooter... is the spring just bad?

Doesn't look like the right spring. It should be able to get the ball to the row of switches right up the shooter lane. But not screaming past them.

Shooter rod clean ? Plastic sleeve in the shooter rod housing there, and clean and not broken ?

LTG : )

#9 4 years ago
Quoted from Sasecool:

but they all are kind of dull

Are the glass domes clean and no silver looking burn inside the dome ? Plastics they are under clean ?

LTG : )

#10 4 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

What number on the bayonet ones ? #44 or #47 ?
LTG : )

Not sure.. all I saw was 6.3volts on there... they leds... they're not clear...they are clean... but translucent white

#11 4 years ago
Quoted from Sasecool:

Also, my ball shooter only works if I hit it with my hand (as opposed to spring back). When I pull the knob, it springs back, but only slightly. It doesnt look like the springs are broke. I am wondering if the spring is detached..can anyone send a video of it in action so I can troubleshoot it?

It looks to me like your shooter rod tip is missing the rubber. You can find the tip @ https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-1100W or https://www.pinballlife.com/white-shooter-tips.html.

The correct spring is the BROWN spring (lowest tension). You can find the spring @ https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-148-6.

If you want to know more about the ball shooter assembly (B-12445-6) see page 2-37 of the Twilight Zone manual which you can download @ https://www.ipdb.org/files/2684/Bally_1993_Twilight_Zone_Operations_Manual_OCR_searchable.pdf.

#12 4 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

It looks to me like your shooter rod tip is missing the rubber.

If it is, you need new balls too.

LTG : )

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

It looks to me like your shooter rod tip is missing the rubber. You can find the tip @ https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-1100W or https://www.pinballlife.com/white-shooter-tips.html.
The correct spring is the BROWN spring (lowest tension). You can find the spring @ https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-148-6.
If you want to know more about the ball shooter assembly (B-12445-6) see page 2-37 of the Twilight Zone manual which you can download @ https://www.ipdb.org/files/2684/Bally_1993_Twilight_Zone_Operations_Manual_OCR_searchable.pdf.

Interesting.. the pinball came with extra bulbs.. turns out it must have been the "upgrade" to LED because they were all incandescent. I swapped back in some of the old bulbs.... MUCH brighter. Go figure.

They are frosted. I will seek some other LEDS to see if they are brighter.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from Sasecool:

I will seek some other LEDS to see if they are brighter.

Comet and Coin Taker has brighter ones. Get non ghosting ones.

LTG : )

#15 4 years ago

Can I see a pic of the LEDs that were in there? The initial LED bulb tech was bad and those bulbs didn't last very long, especially if on location or left turned on all day. After a few months of heavy use, some of them dimmed. The new stuff (which we call SMDs at Comet, to distinguish from the LED-style first generation) last tens of thousands of hours.

It's really easy to put in new bulbs. Send me a PM and I can help, or buy a kit (which will have everything you need and some extra illumination that wasn't stock in the game...like spotlights and a strip along the back of the playfield which is normally pretty dark).

Figure out how to open the backbox (and remove the translite...which once you've turned the key can be lifted up from the bottom and then pulled forward from the bottom and slid out). Then you can see if any of those bulbs back there are working. It's possible they just need to be replaced (especially if you say the other bulbs in it are dim), but if none of the sockets light up with different bulbs, it could also be a blown fuse or a connector that needs to be rebuilt (easy to do if you have the tools).

Agree you probably need a new spring, and also a rubber tip for the plunger. It's an easy thing to replace once you figure out how to do it the first time (just use a flat head screwdriver to remove the E clip near the tip of the flipper and try to prevent it and the spring from flying off into the distance while doing so).

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

Can I see a pic of the LEDs that were in there? The initial LED bulb tech was bad and those bulbs didn't last very long, especially if on location or left turned on all day. After a few months of heavy use, some of them dimmed. The new stuff (which we call SMDs at Comet, to distinguish from the LED-style first generation) last tens of thousands of hours.
It's really easy to put in new bulbs. Send me a PM and I can help, or buy a kit (which will have everything you need and some extra illumination that wasn't stock in the game...like spotlights and a strip along the back of the playfield which is normally pretty dark).
Figure out how to open the backbox (and remove the translite...which once you've turned the key can be lifted up from the bottom and then pulled forward from the bottom and slid out). Then you can see if any of those bulbs back there are working. It's possible they just need to be replaced (especially if you say the other bulbs in it are dim), but if none of the sockets light up with different bulbs, it could also be a blown fuse or a connector that needs to be rebuilt (easy to do if you have the tools).
Agree you probably need a new spring, and also a rubber tip for the plunger. It's an easy thing to replace once you figure out how to do it the first time (just use a flat head screwdriver to remove the E clip near the tip of the flipper and try to prevent it and the spring from flying off into the distance while doing so).

Looks like I do need a rubber stopper... just wondering, I was taking a closer look... is the ball shooter supposed to hit it square on, or just above the equator of the ball.

I ordered some of your Comet LEDs .. I accidentally ordered bayonett instead of wedge...the bulbs are just dim. I'd buy a kit, bit I want to play around with some colors I think.

Would you recommend mostly non ghosting? Is the luminosity less for the non ghosting
?

Thanks

#17 4 years ago
Quoted from Sasecool:

. is the ball shooter supposed to hit it square on, or just above the equator of the ball.

Dead center. The shooter rod housing is adjustable. Loosen three screws inside the cabinet to move it around.

LTG : )

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from Sasecool:

Looks like I do need a rubber stopper... just wondering, I was taking a closer look... is the ball shooter supposed to hit it square on, or just above the equator of the ball.
I ordered some of your Comet LEDs .. I accidentally ordered bayonett instead of wedge...the bulbs are just dim. I'd buy a kit, bit I want to play around with some colors I think.
Would you recommend mostly non ghosting? Is the luminosity less for the non ghosting
?
Thanks

Thanks for the order! For the inserts, I’d recommend 1SMD non-ghosting. For the GI, you essentially never need to worry about ghosting, so you can just get standard bulbs. I’d recommend 2SMD, with frosted lenses. Those two bulbs are pretty close in brightness.

If you ordered the wrong stuff, reach out through the site and we will tell you how to send them back for a full refund.

#19 4 years ago

Guessing someone cut down a higher tension spring to try to match the brown spring as mentioned above. Just order that and you will be good to go!

One of my favorite games! You will definitely enjoy it!

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