Quoted from MrWizzo:Responding to another post made me wonder what tweaks have been hardest in your collections, which pins have required the most attention to play as intended and to expectations and what are you trying to fix currently.
My neediest have been TZ, LOTR and CV. But they have all seemed to be rehabilitated.
Most difficult fix- getting CV high wire switches to be dependable.
Current major issue - TSPP will put only 4 balls on playfield during Mystery Spot. Already posted about this separately on Pinside.
CV wire ramp can be a tad tricky, but using a washer or 2 and moving the pivot arm on the microswitches to the back (edgemost) pivot helps. Once it is set up, it'll stay fine. No problem with mine for over 13 years now. I had a microswitch break under the Ringmaster. THAT was a bear to disassemble to replace!
My most problematic pin was LOTR LE. Bought it new. In the first 8-9 months, both VUK switches went bad, and Balrog needed a bit of sensitivity adjustment. (I like it not too sensitive so you need a direct hit to register it.) BOTH flipper transistors also fried on separate occasions (taking a fuse with them), each time after holding the flipper up for about a minute. (Once while explaining features during a game, once when having a short talk while I was playing.) That sucked.
My pinball bane is now WWF. Bough tit about 1.5 years ago. Worked fine for a while, then started acting weird with display glitches, etc. Turns out the rom socket was a bit flaky. Fixed that and put it on location. Was generally OK for several months (light play), just a few normal minor glitches. Changed location and things got flakier. Got to the point where it wouldn't start up, and exhibited other weird and changing problems. Checked over al connectors, etc. Changed locations again, and it was working or a while, intermittently. Then the display went out but it played fine 'blind.' Then that stopped working and there were weird symptoms (like the 'coin door open' buzz on startup, with coin door closed and switches checked. I finally sent the cpu and power boards to a repair guy. He said there was some past (non-evident) battery damage and a bad capacitor and socket, all fixed. Boards back in game, and now--no go. And all the GI is out except for the slings and side plastics next to them. The power supply is putting out the right voltages, and the CPU LEDs are lit properly (blanking, 5V). Checked all connectors, wires, reflowed solder joints. No clue what to try next.