I hope you're right,this is what I received

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How did you get that? I think I fixed the ramp on my own, but would love that plastic piece to help with the air balls once in awhile.

From our Aussie Distributor

Okay, I'll check with mine. Thanks G!

Well, you got half of what was in my 1st ramp fix kit, minus a plastic bushing and hex post.
The only thing I didn't get was the bump ons....I really think that this was the first generation attempt
at fixing the problem. My understanding was they were working on longer flap, ramp plastic design.
I will keep you posted on my end.

Do you think its possible to use a hack saw to shorten the right hex post to remove the "step" from lift ramp to plastic ramp?

absolutely, this would work. You might have to add 1/4 plastic bushing on left hex post that holds the ramp and this would torque it along with the shorter hex post to make the gap smooth.

Ok, put my ramp back together with the little pin Pat at Stern sent me. My game is now playing pretty smoothly.

So at this point here's what I've done:
1) 2" by just a hair over 1/4" stick on felt, the stuff is holding on extremely well and covers the rivets and hasn't altered the height of the ramp to keep the ball from going up. How long it lasts? Well I don't know yet.
2) Removed factory mylar and added my own. There won't be any way to tell if it's still damaging the playfield with the old piece.
3) Retightened all the upper ramp posts when I was done. This alone allowed me to adjust how the flap met the rest of the ramp and likely made the biggest difference.

The one thing no amount of adjusting will fix though, but I believe the ramp kit Stern is sending out will is the air balls. The ramp is simply too steep. So if you really get a clean shot up it, often the small plastic "guard" is insufficient to stop it from escaping. I'm pretty sure they're including a larger one.

My latest mod for my Pro

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What are people doing about the flaking decal at the base of the well walker? Mine is flaking bad, and I don't even have 250 balls played on my game yet. Is there an aftermarket solution, or has Stern fixed this on later runs?

Mine is already torn off!!! What a POS way of covering a bash area
Why bother replacing it knowing its going to do the same thing again

I just got off the phone with Chas at Stern. He acknowledges that it was a bad design. He said he would send me another decal, but it's just going to get damaged again. Unless someone can come up with a better idea, I might just take the whole thing off and keep it bare metal.

My pro came just bare metal.

Does it have the small round black rubber piece in the front?

yep, just the rubber, looks like some cost cutting on the pro

Or perhaps they realized it was pointless to put a decal on that was just going to get destroyed, and stopped doing it on later runs. Do the early pros have the decal? What about the premiums?

Mines bare metal to

A lot of good ideas in this thread, lets keep it going.

What about wrapping some drop dead foam around the base of the well walker? Would that stuff hold up to the abuse better than the decal?

My pro has the decal and its starting to get messed up. Someone made a pants decal for it I think it was pin grafix but not sure if it will hold up and better

Well Walker : Without looking at the game; is there any chance slingshot rubber or a flipper sized rubber could fit around this monstrosity .

Another decal bites the dust.

What about painting it to look like blue jeans, & then using a clear epoxy to protect? Or the blue jeans sticker with Mylar wrapped over it, will that hold up?

I don't think you would want anything as bouncy as a flipper rubber.

Get a new sticker from Stern or print out the belt one, then cut a piece of mylar to go over it.
I did it and it works great.

Mylar wont last long.

Topper is installed! Looks really cool!

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When is the armor getting released? A month ago they said it would be available in the next couple weeks, and then nothing and now the Prison Tower is available ahead of it.

Trust me, you don't want anything bigger then a piece of paper around the well walker. A rubber ring would make the tunnel shot even smaller and harder to make.

Added clear rubbers, red flipperfingers, STERN side decals, MezelMods Woodbury and Prison roof and a self made A Boxcar. In addition the custom painted coin door and shooter rod. image1(6).JPGimage2(3).JPGimage3(4).JPGimage4(1).JPGimage5.JPGimage6.JPGimage7.JPGimage8.JPG

where did you get the boxcar and track from

they are everywhere on e-bay ron. about $10 + shipping.

ebay.com link: LOT B O Baltimore Ohio Wagon Top Box Cars Fine N Scale Products

ebay.com link: N Scale Chicago North Western Berwick 50 Box car 155795 N1161

ebay.com link: N Scale Micro Trains 40 Standard Boxcar Florida Havanna Railroad Ferries

_{Post edited by beatmaster: more infos}

Looks great! Do those clear rubbers bounce more than the white ones? If not, where can you get them? And considering you have a detailed order form, would you mind sharing it? It would streamline the process for alot of us here with little experience. Thanks for posting the pics and any help is appreciated.

My decal is shot to shit as well.

I'm thinking about trying the extra thin self adhesive felt around the base that I got from Hobby Lobby.

I'll let you guys know how that works out.

I jusr saw one in person, where he used a magnetic rubber strip with self adhesive about 3/4in wide around the base. Another idea was to see if useing a streched out flipper band worked...I think it's too small for the diameter around the WW. I'm thinking of using multiple black sling shot band instead of the flipper band. I'd like to try this out today but have none of these in stock. If anybody has any of the above and would like to try it out that would be much appreciated.

I thought about using the plastic "hook" side of a piece of velcro. It would stand up to the hits no problem. I'm just not sure if the action would be right.

how about a regular rubber band? a large one
or any kind of rubber with 2 face tape?
a laminated decal with mylar?

WHat about made out of that Blue rubber? That stuff seems to absorb the ball shock to a standstill. Another idea, would be back your decal with thick double sided foam tape. The tape would take a bunch of the impact and wouldn't be so harsh on your graphics of the decal.

That's why I considered using some of that black no-bounce foam. I just don't think it would stand up to the abuse.

Try the double sided foam tape. You would be surprised how well that holds up.

I'm wrapping my WW with leather. Pics coming soon.

I plan to just leave it bare metal. Took off the damaged decal last night. Looks fine. Should I be worried about damage to the metal ????

That's what I plan on doing once my decal is in really bad shape. I don't think the bare metal is a problem. In fact, I think that's the way they are shipping them now. Stern sent me a new decal, but I doubt I will even install it.

That's what I was going to do until others said it would damage the metal over time

The Boxcar I bought on ebay. Its a scale N micro train boxcar labeld under Norfolk Southern. The "A" I painted by myself
The clear rubbers do have more bounce than the black maybe little bit more than white ones.
More bouncing will help to minimize the side trains as per my experience in combination with the bigger diameter on the outlane rubbers.

I've had mine bare metal for at least 100 plays or so and it looks fine. I actually like it, but then again I have a modded Zombie in place of the WWalker.

Zombie!

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So whatever happened to the Bloody Armor? Start of December Stern shared a pic of it on it's Facebook saying it would be available in a few weeks and then nothing. Anyone have the inside scoop?

I couldn't take it any more, so I tore off what remained of my decal and installed some dead drop foam that I picked up from Pinbits a couple years ago. So far, it seems to be working well. I like the action a lot. I'll keep you guys posted about how it holds up ...

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I added a train car today & placed it where the train tracks are on the PF. It ends at a tunnel that I painted & installed on the back wall. Next is chain link fence throughout!

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The ww is a fantastic mechanism eliminating all of the issues that wolverine had. The decal? What decal? Mine has none and never even knew there was one on the le.

If it was made of anything else but solid metal then there would be people like you whining that it wasn't made strong enough. Sling shot rubber? Are you for real? This is of the best and most durable bash mechanisms I've seen in pinball and as seen in other threads can also be easily changed out for other models.