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(Topic ID: 106132)

TWD Club, only walkers not welcome !!!

By pinball_erie

6 years ago

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  • 9,614 posts
  • 621 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by Gogojohnnyquack
  • Topic is favorited by 214 Pinsiders


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Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #129 Link to EL wire kit from Pinball Refinery. Posted by Tmezel (5 years ago)

Post #236 Link to custom rules cards. Posted by gweempose (5 years ago)

Post #404 Burning barn mod. Posted by Tmezel (5 years ago)

Post #690 Evil Dead sound package link. Posted by ezeltmann (5 years ago)

Post #783 Link to LE/Premium sound replacement options. Posted by ezeltmann (5 years ago)

Post #2893 Link to rules doc for v1.60, still being updated as of May 2018. Posted by e4mafia (4 years ago)

Post #4216 Guide to Walker Bombs! Posted by ezeltmann (3 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1083 4 years ago

I just got a premium last week that came straight from stern, build date was August 2015. It had 1.41 code, but had the bg ramp fix with foam pads underneath. It's a tough game for sure and I dont have a good feel for the game yet, but still managed to crack 530 mil on factory settings. I like the game a lot and the updated code is a big improvement.

As wide as the bg ramp is, I think it's too steep as i get a good number of airballs off it.

I made my own light mod to light up bg using an LED strip and tied it to the sign above, added interactive undercabinet lighting tied into the RR flasher, lit up the ball trough, shaker and side mirrors. Need to do something with the crossbow and possibly get a prison tower. Have a few other ideas too.

#1095 4 years ago

Is there any rule sheet available that someone has written up? I looked at pinball news at its pretty basic and written on old code. The game reminds me of acdc, which took me quite a while to figure out. I'm getting decent scores on Twd (200-500 mil on factory settings) mainly because I'm just hitting what's lit, but have no idea on strategy, how to start and complete modes, get to wizard modes, what "kills" mean and what the tools mean. There are a thousand posts in this thread alone to go through, but hoping someone can point me in the right direction.


#1098 4 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Im with you lol im having a blast playing it and getting decent scores but dont know a whole lot about the crazy rules lol. I added a few of my refinery mods and man it totally changed the game and made it even more amazing . I highly recommend the prison flasher mod , bicycle girl mod and I have the side decals and el prison fence also to install which will be even more amazing.

I made a bg mod with a green led strip and tied it into the blue light on the sign above. Have side mirrors Installed, shaker, red trough light, undercab lights tied to the pops, shooter lane protector and clear super bands. I'm looking for the prison to make my own mod as well as trying to find a rail road signal the right size to light for a mod.

The game is good and I like the shot variety, just wish I knew what I was doing. I'll watch the bowen video.

#1111 4 years ago

I don't think this game needs a lot in terms of mods. Shaker, mirrors, superbands, BG light, maybe some minor accent lighting and that's about it. The prison tower looks pretty cool, Woodbury sign above the drop target and I could see some kind of RR mod in the pops, but not a whole lot more, game has a lot in it already. If the pro doesn't come with the fish tank in the back right, I'd suggest getting that if it's available. The topper is very cool too, best I've seen for any game out there.

#1138 4 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

I am going to get CT's red shaker

i would avoid the red tremor, too much vibration.

#1140 4 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

Its a Matter of tast... I have one in met and twd and absolutely love them.

there is way too much vibration and red tremor is more of a buzz rather than a rumble. If it is a matter of taste, it's not for me and if someone wants to buy my red tremors (I have 2), PM me. I have the rev B in my IM and had one in my XM and I liked them a lot better. I have adjusted the tremors so that they are fine, but just not happy with the buzz feel.

#1155 4 years ago

The pro doesn't have color changers? I also can't change the inserts on my premium, it's all light boards.

1 week later
#1167 4 years ago

I added a few mods to my premium, nothing fancy, just messing around.

Woodbury sign with a spotlight tied to the Woodbury insert,Woodbury target decal, yellow rr sign, rr crossing signal and a miniature Rick Grimes I found.

1 week later
#1242 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I am about 3 days into this pin and I feel I am bi-polar with it. One second I love it, the other second I am frustrated with how it plays. When you get a good game going its great- but problem is, it takes forever to get one going due to the cheap drains like the prison magnet (which isn't often) and the prison walker head hit either not registering, or registering then draining. The drains off the pop bumpers even with the slingshot rubber mod that was most recently posted doesn't help much.
Last night I had a friend over who has a few machines himself, who has logged many entertaining hours on my Metallica Premium, get so frustrated with the machine. The fact someone cant come up and just play a casual fun game without getting frustrated is a bit disappointing. We played for 1.5 hours or so, never scoring over 20-30M (most were less than 10M games) because of cheap outline drains, SDTM off the prison, and pop bumper exit drains that you literally cannot save unless you dump the machine over on its side. Out of 10-15 games, maybe 1 or 2 were fun and not frustrating last night.
I have messed with the leveling, and other tricks- what am I doing wrong here? What side to side and pitch level have you found to be the best? I am not a great pinball player, but I can put down 90-100M score games on MET without too many issues, but most of all that pin is FUN every time you play. I find myself more frustrated than having fun with TWD because it takes too long to get a satisfying game in - and I am even playing on 4 ball...
Any advice is welcome.

Make sure your game is leveled correctly, 6.5 pitch.
Don't shoot straight up the middle, you are asking for trouble.
You have to get the drop targets down to do well and score in the game, if you can't do that, your scores will be low.
You have to make the shots to do well, like most pins. Like IM, lack of control is deadly.
Use the flippers to control/release the magnets.

If I play 10 games, I might average somewhere around 20-25 mil. My high is over 500 mil and have scored over 200 mil several times since owning it the past month or so. I don't get drains down the middle from the pops like others report and have made no adjustments.

1 week later
#1305 4 years ago

You need to get dead features going so focus on the drop targets first. Watch Bowens tutorial.

#1309 4 years ago

The game is very difficult to understand what is going on and what to shoot for. I usually try to start dead features with the targets then shoot the blue arrows, repeat. In the process of doing that, I can usually start ww mb and prison mb while also hitting lighted cross hairs and yellow lights.

Haven't quite figured out how to get the weapons. I had a 500 mil game and only had three weapons.

Can't figure out how to get 2x playfield going, but if you can do that with features lit and a mb, your score will move up fast.

#1323 4 years ago
Quoted from mark9:

My crossbow often won't fire until it gets to about midpoint (pointing straight up the play field), is this a coding glitch?

Normal. I raised the same question a while back.

#1356 4 years ago

I have 6 second ball save, extra balls at 25, 100 and 200 mil. No other adjustments.

#1358 4 years ago

Fixed replay with 3 levels. Replay boost off.

#1364 4 years ago
Quoted from kpg:

I have a shaker in mine and its much weaker feeling than the one in my MET. Both were purchased from Pinball Life, both games set to Maximum use.
TWD's shaker effect works pretty good, but after a while you just get used to it and don't realize its working. I'd say it is still worth the $120 bucks or so just to have it in there though.

I had to turn my tremor way down it was so active and way too strong.

#1482 4 years ago

I got to horde for the first time yesterday. Couldn't figure out how to start it, then saw the flasher at woodbury. Once started, I just kept firing away at the lit arrows. Wasnt sure how to add a ball, but it was adding quite a few so must have been hitting the right thing. Finished with a score of 414 mil (not my high) and 28 mil for horde. Love the heartbeat sound, especially with an external sub that I had literally just installed prior to playing.

#1576 4 years ago

I wanted to make and install the prison tower in my premium so I ordered this: link

Well, it turns out that it's way too big, no way it would fit. Not sure what others are using, but it isn't that one.

Rather than return it, decided to order the fence and turn both of them into a topper. link

I didn't buy those specific ones and got both for about $50 shipped.

Below are pics of the results along with a video that shows the tower flashers in action.

I put a red and white flasher in the tower and tied them to the red and white flashers inside the barn. The lights on the fence, street light and inside the lower guard house just behind the left fence are just tied into a GI. I thought it came out pretty good for $50 and a few hours of work (my kids built the tower and fence since it's made out of legos). If I was better at using EL wire, I would have used it for barbed wire all along the fence, but the wires are too small for my eyes and hands to deal with. If someone has an EL wire mod that mimics barbed wire and will fit this use, I'll take it.

If anyone wants help making this, let me know, happy to provide more detail. It did require soldering to the flasher in the barn and soldering in spotlights and other connections, but was pretty easy overall.



#1583 4 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

lol. Look at how close that tower is to those ceiling tiles. Near millimeters!

Oh come on, there's nearly a full inch there.

My ceiling height is 90". If anyone makes this and is concerned about ceiling height, you can just use less courses for the tower, it's Lego!

#1659 4 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

here's my custom add in to the Mezel mods barn. It's tied to the spinner circle flasher. the Mezel mod barn itself glows dark orange with GI. now mine lights up ferociously with red when you rip a barn spinner shot
» YouTube video

That's nice!

#1701 4 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

And man, that is ANNOYING AS HELL.
I have clearly nailed the extra ball a couple times with a ball just about to be auto-launched, and you're right, it does NOT count. Of course, every single time that happens it was a MB on ball 3 and I drain with the EB light flashing away and me swearing up a storm.
Dude, the combos of swear words I have come up with since owning this game is nothing short of verbal genocide. I don't know if they intended for this game to be this tough, but it is a kick in the mouth with steel toed boots. I have both outlanes as far in as they'll go with the extra rubber ring in the tunnel lane, and it is still just insane how brutal it is. I'll admit this though, all other games are a creampuff after playing TWD.
If ONLY the Pro owners had the walker bomb....

The tougher the better. Games that are too easy don't last long at my house.

I'm scoring over 100 mil consistently now. Mostly factory settings, but have three extra ball awards at 25, 125 and 250 mil. Getting dead features lit and getting 2x playfield going will boost your score quickly. Walker bombs don't have much to do with it, I only press the button after I drain hoping to get a ball save/mb. Only been to horde twice in 6 weeks. Outlanes factory, no drains from pop or prison issues.

#1703 4 years ago

Just switched my code from cleland back to millhouse and first game got 482 mil...had over 300 mil on the first ball, with extra balls for scoring and woodbury shot. Reached horde again, got 72 mil off that mode. 60 walkers killed overall. After horde, couldn't figure out what to do as everything seemed to start over, need to read the rules.

For extra ball settings, standard adjustment 1 set to fixed, replay setting set to extra ball, replays levels are number of extra balls you want, then set the levels for each extra ball.


#1712 4 years ago

What happens after horde? Ended and I had no idea what to do, it was as if things were starting over.

#1717 4 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Horde ends with all balls drain, you move to next ball (or gameover if it was the last)
Horde ends when you got bit (means your shooting is really bad ) --> flippers die, and you keep shooting in normal play mode.
Walker kills and played modes stay lit but all weapon inserts are reset.

Thanks...And then what?

Quoted from NPO:

Depends on where you are in the dead features progression. If you have all of the dead features completed, go for the drop targets. Once you complete them, all the dead feature lights will flash again as if you started over. Once you hit one of those shots, Terminus should activate, and you go for the shots that are lit (This is what I interpreted from Bowen's amazing tutorial video).

Thanks...what about siege and last man standing?

#1736 4 years ago
Quoted from Concretehardt:

I havnt tried Clelands sound package yet I am running Milhouse, what do you prefer Cleland or Milhouse?

Millhouse, for the sole reason that I like his Woodbury shot music better.

#1798 4 years ago

New high score...had 339 on ball 1 and hit horde on it.



#1800 4 years ago

Nah, Camera overstates it and I played (shot pic) in the dark, no issues with glare. I have a dmd glare guard too, notice how you can't see the dmd reflection.

#1808 4 years ago

Yes, see my posts further back, 1576. It's too big for the playfield, use it as a topper only, at least for the tower.

#1839 4 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

Regarding the Premiums coming out of the factory now, does the BG ramp still bite into the playfield? Is the Cliffy still needed?

Got mine in early december, had foam pads on it. No Cliffy needed.

2 weeks later
#2007 4 years ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

This frigging BG ramp is frustrating me to no end, my shots are now getting denied more times in the past 3 games then I have been denied asking my wife for sex in the past 26 years of marriage.
I'm sure it all has to do with the metal flap on the ramp with such a steep angle that causing the rejection, but come on Stern really. You guys couldn't have made the flap wider then the current 3/4" to give the ball a better surface approach.
Now if I make a new flap the cliffy is useless, if it stays this way the game is very frustrating. Piss poor design, they should produce a new drop ramp with a bigger flap to address this and it will address all the airballs as well. I can see this LE going up for sale very soon....
okay rant over

I get a lot if rejections and airballs too, but when I hit the ramp perfectly, the ball goes through smoothly. I chalk It up to being a difficult shot, but maybe it shouldn't be as tough as it is. It's not at the point where it's frustrating. I removed the foam pads as the ramp was not sitting flush with the pf, and felt it was worse with the pads. Cliffy should be here in a few days.

Agree the design could have been better, but mine is not going anywhere anytime soon.

#2014 4 years ago

I took the pads off and it got worse, plus it was digging into the Mylar so put them back on. Cliffy on the way.

#2016 4 years ago

I don't have the Cliffy yet. I'm going to try foam pads and the Cliffy. The moving ramp is a great feature, but in practice, it's a bit tough to manage. The way I look at it, shots should not be so easy. But, there also shouldn't be air balls.

#2020 4 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

All right, not going to lie, I am still pretty pissed as I write this so please bear with me if I seem a bit sharp around the corners.
So, lastnight, I was trying to figure out how to get the BG ramp to stop shifting from left to right so much. I remembered bigd1979 has shown adding a small doughnut washer to the pivot point of the BG ramp (between the metal bar and the E-clip that allows the ramp to pop up and down). I did the same modification, and all of a sudden the ball wasn't almost not making it up the ramp. Perplexed, I went to remove the washer, only to have the e-clip come off and go somewhere behind the BG head.....
So, the only way to get to that area is to remove ALL the plastics and interconnections behind the BG head to remove the big main "prison fence" plastic that is underneath the BG ramp. As I am starting to do that, there is a similar rod that connects the solenoid responsible for raising and lowering the BG ramp to the ramp itself. That rod has 2 of those e-clips as well. Guess what came of THOSE clips....
So I had to take apart absolutely everything in the BG area short of the main left ramp, and I mean nearly everything. I have to remove the flap portion of the ramp out of the game entirely, and I had to remove the solid steel ball guidlines that help direct the ball up the flap ramp to the main left ramp.....
So, I finally find both clips that came off. After tweaking them, I finally started to re-assemble the game, only to find out that my game would not properly go back together. I'll start to explain....
So, there are two metal guidelane walls that help direct the ball up the flap ramp and onto the main portion of the left ramp. These "walls" are held into the PF by hex screws on the top of the playfield - 1 I think for the left wall and 2 for the right wall. They also have threads that go through holes in the playfield and are secured by locking nylon hexnuts on the bottom - 2 for the left wall and 1 for the right wall. So to review, the left wall has 3 anchor points to the PF: 1 hexscrew on the top with 2 locking nylon hexnuts underneath the playfield...and the right wall with 2 hexnuts on the top with 1 locking nylon hexnut underneath the playfield.
So, the pivot rod starts and stops at each of the metal guidelanes walls, and is secured with an e-clip on each side. On my game now, if the pivot rod runs through just one of those two walls and the flap ramp, everything behaves as it should. To run the pivot rod through both metal guidelane walls, I have to be pretty forceful and force all 4 holes (1 for each guidelane wall, and 2 for where the flap ramp meets the solenoid responsible for raising and lowering it) to line up. If I get the pivot rod through one of the metal guidelane walls and through both holes on the interlink arm, everything is good. Getting the pivot rod through BOTH walls is quite a challenge; I have to force the the 4th and final hole to line up with the rest of the assembly. Once I do this, the flap ramp is pushed nearly all the way to the right, and it starts to hang in mid air on its own as if the whole assembly is under high tension, and it will NOT return flush with the playfield until I remove the pit rod from one of the two metal guidelane walls - then everything loosens up, and the ramp flap operates smoothly.
Here is a picture of the end of the pivot arm not lining up correctly with one of the two metal guidelane walls. Look directly behind the flap ramp on the left underneath the screw on the top of the ramp flap.
the flap ramp has a tendency to hang in mid air as if it is getting caught. The reason this is happening is my flap ramp is pushed VERY far to the right as shown in this picture:
** - Please note - in this picture, the metal lanes and the plastic of the main ramp are "staggered". That has since been corrected with the metal lanes inside the plastic lanes of the main left ramp. - **
Unfortunately, I did not take any "standard" picture before disassembly, so I don't have a clue of the flap ramp's normal resting position.
Guys, not going to lie, after working a 12 hour day to come home and play my game only to spend 4-5 hours on this having to disassemble all of this and having a $6000+ game in pieces has me pretty frustrated. My ramp entrance got scratched up from the metal guidelane walls, everything has finger prints on it, hardware is all over the place with no "home" pictures taken to show how it all goes back together. I just want the ramp flap to operate freely as it should, and I can't seem to make that happen.
Does anyone have any ideas at all? If anyone does, please help.
I'm not incompetent or an idiot - just something does not seem to be lining up right. I shouldn't have to FORCE all 4 of those holes to line up right; they should come together pretty smoothly, but that is just not happening....

Here's how my ramp sits. Sorry you are having trouble. When you work with small parts, it's good to lay down a rag or fill nearby holes in case you drop things, which inevitably happens. Sometimes it's good to walk away for a few hrs and take a break, clear your head and rethink things. If your ramp is too far right, sounds like the part that lifts the ramp is to rigid and doesn't have play. My ramp slides back and forth with a few mm of play.


#2028 4 years ago
Quoted from bigd1979:

The plastic protecter piece on top is supposed to face forward to stop air balls off the posts i believe. ..

I wondered about that. First time I took it off, couldn't remember which way it was supposed to go. Thought it should face back to prevent airballs off the ramp.

2 weeks later
#2177 4 years ago

Put the Cliffy on for the bg ramp. No more airballs and the shot is smooth and clean, like a hot knife through butter. I also have the factory foam pads on. Really happy with the shot now.

#2188 4 years ago

If anyone is looking for a very nice and affordable undercabinet light kit, please let me know. $60 shipped. The effects are pretty impressive, ties to pops and two other flashers. You can customize which color ties into which flasher. Install is like 5 minutes, no soldering. Works on many other games too.

#2212 4 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

From another member here...

If I want to spend a few more on eye candy I really liked the led light ramp mod. Multiple colors have been used. Looks sharp. Lots of pics, but may be hard to find. Here is an example.
I also like the speaker panel inserts and led lighting, sharp.

Not hard to find, I have, blue, green, purple, white.

#2265 4 years ago

It has to pass a certain point before it will fire.

#2308 4 years ago
Quoted from jkashani:

Can someone give me a re-cap and where to purchase the modifications to help decrease the ball drain from out of the bumpers and for right ball drain. The game is great and vicious! I thank you in advance

put a thicker post sleeve on the lower post, that cuts down on 90% of the sdtm issue.

#2310 4 years ago

Not following you, the drain from the right comes from the pops.

#2376 4 years ago

I get zero airballs off the bg ramp. I have the cliffy down and the foam pads from the factory. It's real smooth. The cliffy really improved thing a lot.

#2486 4 years ago

My guess is that it's for the ramps to light them from the back of the game where they disappear. It plugs in to the right of the coin door where you'll find a similar socket

1 week later
#2587 4 years ago

Looks good! Add some spotlights with color changing bulbs to light up the fence area.


1 month later
#2747 4 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

My custom topper is finally complete. It took lots of time, learning how to solder, and revisions to get it just how I wanted it to be. I used a few McFarlane TWD kits, a bunch of "Blind Bag" figures and some LED lights wired up to simulate a fire in the prison yard and gunfire coming from the prison tower. Includes Carl, Rick, Morgan and Darryl on the tower, and Michonne with her pets, and Walker Merle and Glenn outside the fence. Here is a picture and a couple of videos showing the details and then how it looks "in action" during gameplay. Thanks to Lermods for the original inspiration.
» YouTube video
» YouTube video

Looks good, nice job!

2 weeks later
#2867 4 years ago

No, keep the pads on with the cliffy.

Quoted from 27dnast:

Question about bicycle girl ramp:
The Stern fix kit was released to keep the lip of the ramp flap from digging into the playfield, correct?
I have a Cliffy on the way, I'm wondering if I should remove the foam pads under the ramp flap to get the ramp flap more flush with the surface of the playfield?
Anyone made any other tweaks to the ramp to make that shot even more reliable?

#2869 4 years ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

What's the point of the pads if the Cliffy is there?
Not trying to be smart... Just curious

It changes the angle just enough to make it a very smooth shot. The cliffy raises the ramp just a little to reduce the steepness and the pads add just a fraction more to reduce it.

I took the pads off with the cliffy and the shot never worked well. Put the pads back on and it's like a hot knife through butter.

#2880 4 years ago
Quoted from ZMeny:

Joining the club. This game is pretty great, I'm just learning all the ins-and-outs. Luckily, my machine doesn't have any sdtm problems. Looking forward in dumping even more money on it with mods (even though there were a ton on it to begin with). I'm starting by making my own topper (not looking to spend 400 on the stern one). Anyone have experience wiring leds from head cabinet? Anywhere on board that I can wire seperate flashers or do I need to go to playfield to tap into? Thanks for the help. Stay in the house Coral!!!

I tied into the flashers inside the barn for my topper.

#2883 4 years ago
Quoted from ZMeny:

Thanks Lermods! Yeah that one seems doable, but I was wanting to do a couple of them. The problem is that I'm not used to new flasher connections sandwiched like they are. I'm used to alligator clipping or soldering into nice open spaces on bally/Williams or even stern pros. I wish I could just alligator clip or tie in somewhere on board so that I don't have wires hanging everywhere especially when pulling out playfield for repair.

It's hard to do alligator clips in the barn as it is a little tight, but it's easy to solder in that area. Roof comes right off and it's easy to feed the wires up from the bottom.

#2906 4 years ago

If you have trouble with your ramp, it's likely not adjusted properly. I have mine sitting on a cliffy with the factory foam pads and it's perfect, very smooth. Ensure that where the lifting part of the ramp meets the fixed part is flush or even a touch higher, including the screws. Wax the ramp as well. There shouldn't be so many people having issues and should be easily fixed.

1 month later
#3103 4 years ago

This game is so fast it's hard to keep track of or understand what's going on, code not great at pointing you in the right direction. Don't get me wrong, I love it, just a bit hard to follow. In this way, it's like xmen with hero stacking on, kind of a jumbled mess. Games like LOTR and tspp, while extremely deep, are pretty easy to follow.

1 week later
#3148 4 years ago
Quoted from VolunteerPin:

Looks like I might be joining the club very soon. All I'm waiting on is confirmation and logistics. Picking up a premium. I've only played a couple of pros on location so this ought to be an interesting and fun experience.
As far as alternative sounds/voices...which is the overall most preferred? I listened to the recent one with the music (can't remember more detail on that) and I thought the music was great but wasn't sure if that or changing out the voices is a bigger improvement. Any thoughts? (links would be helpful as well)

The bg ramp is an issue on many premiums. Strongly suggest you get the cliffy protector for it or lose be prepared for rejects and airballs.

As for sound, clelands and Millhouse are the two most popular, both are an improvemeant over stock. Kpg has two versions that build off clelands code. I find his current version has too much music and lacks sufficient callouts, but his previous version is really nice, including a negan whistle for the outlanes. I Just switched from his new version back to his previous as the music was becoming too repetitive and I wanted more callouts directing me to shots to hit.

#3152 4 years ago
Quoted from T7:

The extended ramp flap fix works much better than a cliffy protector for rejects and airballs. The cliffy protector just protects the playfield, but the extended ramp flap changes the angle of the ramp - making it a much smoother transition from playfield to ramp.

I don't know about the extended ramp fix, but I do know that the cliffy combined with the stock foam pads makes the shot on my game like a hot knife through butter...and it covers less of the playfield.

#3170 4 years ago
Quoted from John1210:

The bg ramp is still my one concern. With the pro that left ramp was so smooth and you could do repeated shots with X coming more into play.

The left ramp is not an issue if you get the cliffy and keep the stock foam pads. I get no airballs and no rejects unless i dont hit it right.

#3176 4 years ago

I can already see the pinside threads on a pro plus, why did they include a spinner in the pro plus and not the moving ramp or why this light and not that light. Stern will never be able to win. Id rather have just two models pro and le. Put more into the pro and call it a day.

1 month later
#3300 4 years ago

I installed the well walker mod from Modfather, such a big improvement. I always thought the stock figure looked bland and resembled Pizza the Hut from Spaceballs. The level of detail in this figure is really amazing, right down to the eyeballs.

DSC_0463 (resized).JPG

DSC_0458 (resized).JPG

DSC_0460 (resized).JPG

#3308 4 years ago

Hit both flippers at same time when animation shows zombie hitb twice with crowbar. It will fling the ball.

#3321 4 years ago

For me, using the cliffy and the stock foam pads works best. Zero issues with making the shot.

#3352 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Is anyone's game set up to only allow you to light and start modes outside of multiball?

Modes are started by knocking down the drop targets. What does mb have to do with starting a mode?

#3362 4 years ago


Quoted from PoMC:While I had the screws off for painting, I saw the LED itself is white and a small blue plastic is over it. I took a lens off an LED and placed it in the hole from the back and it fits perfect and locks into place.
WAY better than the tiny blue light - I hate blue lights in sign lamps anyway because it's just not a nice color for alerts like that.

You must have a pro as the premium has a light board.

3 weeks later
#3507 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The best solution I've seen is just a big yellow post rubber at the end. 95% it's good. The other 5% takes some skillful nudging, but they can all be saved.

Agreed, ive done this and rarely get sdtm. Its pinball and the ball should drain, but this has helped alleviate cheap drains.

2 weeks later
#3572 4 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

The foam is perfect still. It stopped the rivet from digging in. But since the flap sits above the playfield, the constant ball hitting it into the playfield when it goes up made it dig in is my guess. I put some mylar on it now, just sucks I didnt notice it earlier. I wasnt looking for that, I had been watching where the rivets were.

Definitely get the cliffy, it fits perfect, doesn't cover too much of the pf and, at least for me, made the ramp shot very smooth.

#3588 4 years ago

Game is very hard to figure out whats going on, a lot of things going. Ive had the game a year and still dont entirely know. Shotting drop targets starts mods, basically shoot the flashing lights. Hit prison tower to spell prison, same for well walker.

#3596 4 years ago
Quoted from wtuttle:

SEASON 7 SPOILER ALERT--Do not read if you've not seen episode 1 (if you watch the show):
Negan's whistle is in the "non-Milhouse" code (I forget the name of the gentleman who made it). Rest assured, it's wonderful.
Best callout idea I've heard on here is the "Pourin' the Bisquick" line from the now dearly departed Abraham.

The whistle is in the kpg version before he did the tool version. It activates when the outlane switch is hit. I run this version and think it's the best of all if them.

#3619 4 years ago

There is only one shot to make, hitting the first rollover with the plunge. Hitting anything else awards 50k.

#3622 4 years ago

I knew the right flipper controlled the award, but never realized the left flipper controlled the shot. Thx

Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

The Woodbury shot works like this. The two star rollovers and the two skill lanes are the potential targets. Use your flippers to scroll the bonus choices to where you want them. Then use the flippers to choose which bonus you're trying for, then plunge. If your ball goes to where you choose then you get the bonus.
Completing the fishtank makes additional awards available.

3 weeks later
#3707 4 years ago

Modified my back box to get rid of the stupid fluorescent tube, used warm white led strips and red LED strips as accent along the four sides of the translight. Fades in and out subtly.

#3722 4 years ago
Quoted from extendo:

Nice! Can I ask how you managed to do this ?
Thanks heaps

It's actually fairly complicated. I made a backboard out of 1/4" thick poster board, wired up led strips to a controller, pulled power off the 12v plug in the cabinet. I have two circuits running off the controller, one to have red strips fade and another to have the warm white strips on all the time.

Don't think I'd want to make this as a production mod, but if someone wanted one, I'd make it for them. Takes a few hours to make. Happy to answer questions if anyone wants to take it on. Mine isn't interactive, but it could be if I tied it to the flashers.

#3755 4 years ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

I keep hearing about the RGB lighting for the premium/LEs. I thought the RGBs on this game were only RED on playfield or GREEN (fishheads) and RED/GREEN/BLUE for the lockbar button. Are there other colors on the playfield during modes?

Yes, all of the arrowsame change color.

#3768 4 years ago

My high is 83 kills, 650 mil. 115 kills seems very far away.

2 weeks later
#3836 3 years ago

Hard to see in your pic what that is, but I don't have it on my premium.

#3848 3 years ago
Quoted from NeilMcRae:

guys, got a premium coming my way- heard of issues with the bicycle ramp with fixes - what are the fixes?

I had no issues with my premium bg ramp, but adding the cliffy for the landing area made the shot really clean and smooth.

3 weeks later
#3902 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

I'm a new member to the club! I picked up an LE last weekend and absolutely love it! All of my experience prior to this has been with the Pro (I've put a few hundred plays on a local route game) but the LE really takes it to another level! Especially with an upgraded sound package. I'm using RandomKGs NIN/Radiohead mix which is awesome! I really think my favorite LE feature is the lightshow. It really is impressive and immerses you in the game. I've made it to Horde mode twice since getting the game and it really makes your heart race!
My game is all stock with the Stern left ramp fix but I ordered a shaker and should have it later this week. Any other recommended mods besides just cosmetic ones? Also, does anyone have any pointers on using the Crossbow? I suck at it and it is almost too risky to use as I've gotten quite a few insta-drains from it. I've thought about disabling it all-together but figured I'd just keep practicing to see if I get better.

Congrats. I thought LEs came with shakers??

2 weeks later
#4005 3 years ago

Looks great, I did something similar...tied the flashers in the tower to the ones in the barn.

#4007 3 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Yours was my inspiration!

Cool. Make sure its on the top good. I came down to my basement one day and some of it had falen off as it wants to tilt back.

3 weeks later
#4168 3 years ago

Scores start to rise very quickly when you have a lot going on, especially if you have the 2x pf scoring going during a mb. My high is 630mn with like 80 kills. Never been to LMS, been to Horde a few times. Keep in mind it matters how people set their games up. My outlanes are very tough, even on factory settings. People could also have more extra balls set up.

#4203 3 years ago

From.what I hear, bm66 is a disaster in terms.of quality and the pf being barren. Twd is one of the best games ever made, to me it's a perfect 10.

#4207 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The views on TWD were all bad the first year plus if it's existence.

Yes, mainly because of the code and bad sound package related to character voices, not quality. I only got mine in late 2015 when i felt both were addressed. I am hearing some very bad stories about pf quality and the overall package on bm66, not just code. Nowhere near being worth what they are asking for it.

1 month later
#4404 3 years ago
Quoted from GhostThruster:

Well the latest development as of this morning.. played a couple games without issue and then when trying to start a game, no balls ejected to start a game. I tested the coil that puts the ball from the trough into the shooter lane and it works during the test but not outside of that. The machine then went into locating balls mode after I power cycled it and seemed to work for one game. A quick search told me that it may be an opto issue down there. I'll have to dig into it more after work.
I knew there would need to be repairs made but I didn't think they would start on day 2 lol

Confirm you have the right number of balls in the game. It's the simplest thing to check first.

2 weeks later
#4452 3 years ago
Quoted from TheWombat2430:

For the last few months I've been sacrificing and saving. The waiting is almost over!!!! I will likely join the club within the next month or so!!! Going to get the premium for sure, just deciding on what mods to get done upon purchase. Potentially buying through Melissa at CoinTaker. She seems very straight forward and has been extremely helpful thus far. Who else has some ideas for mods? Right now I'm thinking Shaker, Pop bumper mod, tower mod, survivors inside mod for the prison. I know I will need Bicycle Girl light mod but cointaker has been sold out of those for awhile. Any other suggestions guys?!?! I can't wait to have it home!!! I've only played the pro and my high score in limited play on that was 97mil.

Cliffy for under the bg ramp. I wouldnt play a single game without it.

#4455 3 years ago
Quoted from TheWombat2430:

Do you have those available for sale?

You can get it at

1 month later
#4529 3 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

I hit the Woodbury standup target on a premium and the ball kicked back and drained sdtm. I nearly walked away from the game with two balls left. Pro (for me) is the most perfect pinball machine ever coded.

That's never happened to me in 18 months of ownership of my premium. Not even sure how it's possible since it should come back down to right flipper.

#4539 3 years ago

No matter what comes with the game, get the cliffy for the ramp. It raises the ramp slightly and protects the playfield. Makes the sho much smoother.

#4566 3 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Occasionally goes into the sling but when it does it kicks to the right flipper. Never goes out the outlane. It really doesn't block the tunnel shot, if you were to shoot where the guide is it would just be going into the upper right pop bumper. All in all better than having to nudge it every time I shoot barn or riot or plunge. Otherwise 50% of the balls goes SDTM.

This is pretty common on the game, tons of posts on it, mine was the same way. You can fix it by putting a slightly fatter post sleeve where the ball exits on the lower right. That gives the ball just enough deflection to avoid sdtm. Others have gone as far as putting sling rubber along the right side. It's an easy fix.

#4569 3 years ago

Yes, fuse is likely blown. One protects the motor in the backbox, can't recall which one it is, I believe it's 3 amps. Surprised stern didn't tell you to check this first. It's not likely the motor.

Quoted from bent98:

I just got my TWD and after a day of use the crossbow stopped working. When the crossbow was fully extended it made a clicking noise and stopped. I called up Stern and they said it was the motor. I just replaced and the crossbow doesn't move at all. Switch 50 and 51 register in service mode so its not that. The firing solenoid works fine as well. They said this machine doesn't have a motor controller board. So my question is what tells the motor to turn on? Is it possible a fuse could of blown? Stern is closed today so any help would be much appreciated. .

#4574 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

I pulled off backbox and looked at the main board and all the 13 fuses have a red led lite so I assume all fuses are good. I need to find my meter to check continuity. What else could it be?

Did you check the connector underneath? Do you have power to the connector?

#4578 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

After further analysis, I am not getting 20VAC across the brown and brown blue wires of the relay assembly 511-619-00, instead I am getting 3.96v. Therefore I suspect the relay is not getting energize to turn motor on to activate the crossbow. How can I test the 20v source is working properly? Everything else in the game is working.
I checked all the fuses for continuity on the main board and found no issues. The main board has all Voltage leds lite up for all voltages levels. One other thing to note, There is a capacitor and a light bulb on the motor side connector. The light bulb looks like the filaments aren't touching. I am not sure wath purpose of this bulb this serves or if that's normal? Could that be an issue? I assume not as the relay is not getting voltage therefore the motor is not as well. I've attached a pic of the motor connector that has that light bulb solider on it.

I can't say I am exactly sure what's going on but here is what I would check:

1. Is coin door closed when you are testing the motor and checking voltages? If not, power is cut. Not sure how you are testing the motor, but go into settings, coil test, choose 21, push start button. Nothing?
2. Do you get continuity from the board connector for the motor to the connectors at the motor?
3. It's possible the transistor on the board has blown, check that with a meter. Meter on diode check, one probe on tab of transistor, other probe on game ground. If you get no resistance or a buzz, it's blown.
4. To be honest, I don't know what that glass tube dies, the blue varistor I think helps regulate power, but I'm not entirely sure.
5. Pull connector at the board, measure voltage coming off the pin controlling the motor.
6. If motor works in test mode, but not game mode, I'd suspect the home switch.

I believe voltage to the motor should be 30v.

#4580 3 years ago

You need to check the manual, look at the coil chart, it's in the table. It's on stern's website. For connector, I mean the one in the backbox.

#4583 3 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Ok looks like J7 Port 7 is the what I would measure for 20vDC to see if board is telling it to turn on the motor. Where do I put the ground lead? There is not ground on J7 block? It also looks like J7P1 is the 20VDC constant so J7P7 is the trigger? Also whats J7P5 Key?
I attached the three pages in the manual needed to answer my question. I assume if this measure the 20VDC then we know the board is good but then it would mean the relay is bad?

Use the ground braid anywhere in the game.

#4584 3 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

Two notes after about 15 games on my NIB pro with a Feb 17 build date.
1) I can firmly conclude that pro models are easier than Prem/LE as the no bg bashing and no well magnet decrease danger spots in a meaningful way. This is not only from owning both but also from a couple years of playing a ton of different examples of each.
2) I have not had a single pop bumper based SDTM drain yet on this new build. No idea why. It's in the same geo physical spot as my LE with the same pitch, etc; the LE would drain SDTM maybe 5-10%, enough to be frustrating and cause tilt warnings.
I miss the light show and barn spinner and cabinet art the most. I always loved the "immortality" of not having any actors on the LE. Can't go wrong with either, I'm just glad to have one of them, esp one that isn't nearly as mean as I know it could be.

I wonder if they changed the thickness of the post sleeve at the bottom right to prevent sdtm from pops.

1 month later
#4785 3 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

When i posted that link i thought there was only optos in trough.
First thing id do is take all the balls out and turn game on and add each ball one at a time and see if the game reconizes each ball. If it doesnt reconize one of the balls then one of your rollover switches either needs adjusted or a wire came loose probably.
there is a opto for the ball getting ready to be kicked up by vuk. has 2 plugs one on each side of trough id start there for resetting plugs.

Confirm you have the correct number of balls in the game. I had the exact issue and I had too many in the game even though I could have sworn I had the right amount.

1 week later
#4843 3 years ago

Test your fuses with a meter. i would undue whatever mod you made.

#4851 3 years ago
Quoted from Pintucky:

This is for YOU Lermods:
I did as you said and took each fuse out and put the meter to them. The 3rd fuse in the top right row in the backbox was dead. It was a 5 Amp and I replaced it and it my pin is working 100%! I KNEW better than to just 'eyeball' the fuses. But this pin is so brand spanking new, and I could easily see the filaments inside each fuse and they all looked pristine. But I did as you said, just to make sure. I actually didn't have much hope. But THAT was the problem!!! How many times have I read on Pinside to NEVER trust looking at a fuse or even testing it while still in the pin. Always take them out and check with a meter.
I do need to confess that I did another stupid thing while checking them. But I don't blame ME this time. Under the PF are two fuses for the flippers. They are in some kind of black plastic holder that has those fuses in there so tight, I broke one of them trying to get it out. Glass pieces everywhere! MAN, are those things in there tight! Anyway, with my poor vision, it appears to have 8 Amp written on it. I don't have any of those. I reckon I could put a 7 Amp in there to make the right flipper work and the only thing bad to happen is the fuse will blow (maybe)? Right?
Anyway, you guys don't know how HAPPY I am to know I don't have to pay a fortune to get my pin fixed or be without it for weeks ore maybe months! Thanks again Lermods. And I always thought "Yankees" were not very friendly!
Mike in Kentucky

Glad you got it working again. We've all blown fuses before and we've missed blown ones.

#4920 3 years ago
Quoted from rawbars:

I just got a TWD premium. How high is your bicycle girl ramp in the up position? Mine came with the ramp fix kit already installed. Part of that fix was a few pads on the bottom of the metal ramp flap. My ball actually grazes those pads on the way under the ramp. It barely raises high enough to allow the ball under. Is there a way to get it to raise higher? The entire thing seems kind of rickety.

Buy the bg ramp cliffy.

#4979 3 years ago

If you are into Undercab lighting, we have a nice set that is reasonably priced and easy to install. There is a video of it on our website, very active in this game.

1 month later
#5092 3 years ago

Vampire red powder:

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20170831_122331 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#5151 3 years ago

You caused a short and blew the transistor. You can play the game if you remove the flasher bulb. If you have a meter, you can test the transistor. If you've never done board work, send your board out or get ready to learn how to do it. It's not hard, but you need some basic soldering skills.

#5155 3 years ago
Quoted from Pintucky:

And this transistor is on a board in the back box, right? Not on some little 'board' under the PF. That's what the guy with me led me to believe. I haven't looked yet, but I hope if they are in the back box they look like the other transistors in my Williams, Stern, Sega, and Data East pins. I do know how to recognize and test them. I'm not very good at removing and putting in new transistors. I tried that once on my Goldeneye and lifted some traces and had to send the board off for repair. I'm going to remove the bulb for now.
Just thought of something. Would that transistor only control ONE feature on this pin? It only controls this one flasher lamp? They usually include various other electronics on a pin. Anyone think that there are other features not working that I cannot see visually while playing that is tied into this same transistor?
Thanks everyone for your replies!!!!!!!!!

Yes, in backbox. Look in manual for coil/flasher table and it will tell you which transistor it is. Only one controls a flasher.

1 month later
#5260 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Joining the club, my first NIB game! Having a lot of fun with this one so far. Anyone else having a problem with the prison magnet throwing the ball SDTM? Is there a short ballsave option for that? It can be pretty annoying.

Just before the second wrench strike on the dmd, press both flippers and the magnet will throw the ball so it doesn’t go sdtm.

#5274 3 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

I have a few questions about Horde. I've owned the pro for about a month, and I started Horde for rhe first time last night. I lit all the weapons, but I didn't know how to start Horde.
I might have already been in a multiball, but I don't remember which one. One of the balls went through Woodbury, and Horde started. Other balls were hitting things, too, so I just want to confirm that Woodbury is the shot to start Horde.
Also, a few more balls entered the playfield when Horde started. How many balls is Horde?
Will the multiball end when a walker gets too close, or does that just light the "Bit" outlanes? Will the multiball end if one ball goes down the "Bit" outlane?
I was down to one ball and it drained down the left outlane with "Bit" lit, so I'm unsure of the behavior while more balls are in play.

Horde is started by the Woodbury shot, the flasher should be active letting you know been a while since I've been there so can't answer the other questions.

1 week later
#5329 3 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

I don't have too much of a problem with Riot shot. Lots of people even hit it with the left flipper off of a well walker bank shot. I wish I could do that more.
People can always go into the settings and make it a bit easier to progress into TWD. Better that than never progressing super deep. Easy to change back and adjust too.
Always great to hear people enjoying their pins and what TWD has to offer.

Here's some mods that one can consider.
Add the color dmd (LED or LCD) to that.

I just added an LCD color dmd to my premium, worth every penny.

4 weeks later
#5429 3 years ago
Quoted from chet218:

If you are looking for an alternate sound package with more of the TV call outs but still the same music package, would it be Clelands?


#5456 2 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

My thoughts exactly. I do have a backup of Clelands version so I suppose I could always go back if needed.

Crap...same boat, update or not? I knew this would happen. I love clelands code and the show voices. Cleland, Can you please help us?

#5470 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

The only way I’ve been able to see siege and last man standing is to set the game on 10 ball. Haha

Me too, been to horde a few times, haven't seen much else, very difficult pin. factory set outlanes. I doubt this update will do much for me, but in my view, the game was complete.
My high is about 600 mil.

#5493 2 years ago

Clelands sound is Incorporated into the game code. Cleland will post his version of the code so you install it just like you would code from stern and that's all you need to do. You basically overwrite Stern's code with clelands version.

3 weeks later
#5706 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

I’m no expert Mike on this subject but I know the shakers for Sam and spike systems are different. I don’t know if it’s just a wiring thing or what but they are specific ones for each system. I remember people talking about this a long time ago also and seems like maybe you could have node board failures if you use the wrong shaker maybe also. Chuckwurt could probably answer your question and tell you why. I just didn’t want to see someone try and use a sam system shaker in a spike game and damage the game is why I said to not do it. I just know that they are system specific and there must be a reason for it.

It is just the wiring, the shakers themselves are interchangeable. Shakers for Non spike games include separate boards. In spike games the connection is already in the game so no separate board required.

#5732 2 years ago
Quoted from Hazoff:

If I hit the right ramp heavy it will fly off by on the left side over the little hump, never upon entry, Anyone have that?

Yes, I do. Hard shots only. Seems to come off the ramp right around the diverter area.

#5766 2 years ago
Quoted from nintendo:

Hey guys, thought I'd post this here also (I did post in the tech section but figured someone had the same issue as me).
I ordered the SAM system Shaker Motor for TWDLE and installed it. Once I went in the schematics to test the motor, it didn't go off. I followed the instructions 100%.
The Coil test for the shaker motor does not work (yes, we are holding the white coin door switch that sends High Voltage in the first place, but pressing Menu/black button does not give any activity on the motor.
My technician verified all the harnesses and there are no connection mistakes. He also used a 9Volt battery just to temporarily test the shaker motor and even at the reduced 9Volt, it spun fine.
Is there something to do in the sw setup (or newer firmware or something) that is needed before this motor can be activated? Else, I assume a defective PCB board/interface (SM PCB). We already checked the fuse and a few diodes and they are fine.
Any help would be appreciated!

Post a pic of your shaker board connected.

#5773 2 years ago
Quoted from nintendo:

Sure thing. Just took some pics now with the flash, got three photos. Here they are:

I’m not 100% sure about this, but you have a rev A shaker board. I had thought only rev B were compatible. I have rev B in my game and all stern games.

#5775 2 years ago
Quoted from nintendo:

Thanks for the suggestion. I'll double check how it's connected in the back. Cheers

Where does that connector in the bottom middle of the board run to? That connection is not in the rev b board.

2 weeks later
#5855 2 years ago
Quoted from colonel_caverne:

Édit: i measured thèses tensions on my Met and are the same. So I guess it is normal.
However the leds 9 to 12 on the driver board are off.
Any ideas?

Close the coin door and they will come on.

1 week later
#5906 2 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

The cliffy's isnt to make the shot smoother, its to stop the ramp digging into the playfield. Yes it is a must. Mine came with the "factory" fix with the foam on it too, but after a few hundred plays, it was already digging into the playfield. For less than $20, its cheap insurance.

the cliffy did make the shot smoother for me because it changes the angle and makes the ramp less steep.

#5933 2 years ago
Quoted from wtuttle:

Anyone ever have this happen? Well-walker multiball, and four balls eject. Also had a Prison multiball this week where there were only two balls--my plunger kept trying to eject a third ball, but there was nothing there. I did the ball trough test and had no issues.
I'm worried this is a board thing that is beyond me. I have a Premium with about 5,000 games on it.
Thanks for any thoughts you might have. Cheers from Canada.

It’s either your shooter lane switch or one of the opto boards in the trough. All are simple fixes. Put the game in test mode and see what’s active. Shooter lane should not be active. Take the balls out and see if anything in the trough is registering. If nothing, reseat the opto connectors.

1 month later
#6045 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

And the McFarlane mini fig sets can be put together to make a pretty neat topper.


#6062 2 years ago

Worked on my game a bit today.

Fixed balls flying off the crossbow ramp on the left side. Used 1" magnetic tape just after the hump on the ramp. Played several games with hard shots up the ramp, didn't flynoff once. You can't see the tape from the player position. Magnet slows the ball down just enough to keep it on the ramp.

Second, I added a red led strip on the back left. I just didn't feel the bulbs in that area did enough to draw out the detail of the artwork. I removed the bulbs and added a strip.

Lastly, I added some lighting strips along the lower part of the playfield, using warm white led strips, 18" long and tied them to the GI. Not sure I like them yet, but they do brighten up the playfield and will dim when the GI dims. It's the poor man's version of the stadium lighting, but I wanted to keep the top part of the playfield darker. And NO, I am not going to sell them.

20180311_175010 (resized).jpg

20180311_174313 (resized).jpg

20180311_174935 (resized).jpg

20180311_174320 (resized).jpg

#6064 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Is that a set of zombie arms coming from behind your pin

Yep...kind of cheesy, left over from Halloween.

#6067 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Can anyone tell me out of the box does the right drop target have a decal on it from factory?

Mine did not.

1 month later
#6238 2 years ago

Here’s mine, blue back ramps, green bicycle girl, red back board, my version of pin stadium on lower part of pf only.

image (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#6413 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I use pinball life shakers. They are the perfect amount of rumble. CT’s are insane.

Depends on the shakers. Red tremors are tough, but the regular stern shakers CT sells work great.

#6448 2 years ago
Quoted from rawbars:

I traded an AC/DC premium for a Pinball Refinery TWD premium that had this mod installed. It does not light up a pin like Pinball Stadium lighting. But it is definitely a cool look. The metal fencing is not attached to any type of mirror blade or art. It comes with the light up wiring zip tied to the metal fencing. The fencing must be removed any time you want to lift the playfield and then slid back in place when you put it back down.
I really loved this mod but it did not agree with my machine for some reason. A few months after I had it I noticed it wasn’t working. I looked under the playfield and found a little blue box asssociated with the mod melted. I called Pinball Refinery, who could not have been nicer, and we determined one side of the light up wiring was the problem. I paid for a replacement light up wire and all new wiring etc under neath the playfield. It was a really simple process to hook it all back up. But a few weeks later the exact same thing happened. The mod stopped working and the blue box under the playfield melted again. I took the mod off after that. Which sucks because it looks really good, but it was a pain in my ass.

I think that blue box is an inverter of some sort, they are notoriously unreliable. Not sure why he used those.

2 months later
#6761 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Watch mcsirtuna go through the whole machine - INVALUABLE!

This is truly the best tutorial I have ever seen for any game, long, but well worth watching if you want to understand what is a pretty complex game.

2 weeks later
#6807 2 years ago
Quoted from CreepyTom:

How can you adjust the post to stop the center drain from the pops?

Put on a thicker post rubber at the bottom where it exits. the ball will hit it when exiting and Deflect to the left flipper.

7 months later
#7659 1 year ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

I like my homemade topper spent about $70 and had fun with kids putting it together. Hot glue to base and use screw holes on top of backbox. Hot glue as you build, Red LED lights wired to barn has a glowing effect to back glass and topper. link » link » link »
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I did the exact same thing with mine, and tied some flashers from inside the barn to inside the tower. I only have one tower.

#7674 1 year ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Hey gang,
Just joined the undead club.
My crossbow is sticking and doing some funky stuff. Can you guys take a look and let me know if my plastic coil sleeve is installed correctly?[quoted image]

Here's how mine looks.

IMG_20190403_090315 (resized).jpg
#7678 1 year ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

1. The ball will enter the crossbow and just sit there. Ball search will end the problem.
2. Button will not launch the ball.
3. Crossbow motor will continuously run for the duration of the game.
The plunger will ssometimes stay extended after the ball is launched. The weight of the ball will compress the plunger the second time, so this may be normal.
I went through the switch, motor and coil test. Everything seems fine. Like I said, the issues are intermittent and seemingly random.

1. if the ball is just sitting in the cross bow and not doing anything, that is a switch issue. Adjust the switch or replace it.
2. if the button will not launch the ball, that is also a switch issue, either related to #1 or an issue with the button switch. Does the button switch work in test mode?
3. Cross bow running continually is a home switch issue, adjust home switch or replace it. Basically, the motor can't find it's home position so it keeps moving to try to find it.

I think the manual has a diagram outlining the cross bow motor and its switches.

#7689 1 year ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I'm trying to "get" this game. It just doesn't click with me. I can walk up to any other game that I own and everything is very clear what to do. I don't get why everyone loves this code.
Is it because mine has the Cleland code with absolutely ZERO helpful callouts? Does the standard code have helpful callouts?

It’s a tough game to figure out, but once you do the magic shines. Took me a long time, watching some videos really helped. Main thing to get going is knock down the drop targets and get modes started. I find acdc actually much harder to figure out what’s going on.

#7732 1 year ago

I have one on my acdc and love it. I added rgb lighting and some flashers to it.

1 month later
#7847 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

I have looked through the manual repeatedly, I have asked my fellow pinsiders, I have emailed Marcos and a couple other pinball sources to see which switch I need to order to replace the micro switch under the Well Walker. I guess since no one wants to help me, I should ask, what question should I ask and where should I ask it so I can fix my $11,000 machine. Like fuck, is it that difficult to help someone out. I have a hard time thinking no one else has ever ordered this part before. And then for everyone who checks this thread to just skim through my post and not a single answer? I have never been this frustrated trying to fix such a simple problem. Please don’t reply back trying to tell me how to fix the fucking switch, it is broken, and I need a new one.

It’s in the manual, page 12, switch matrix. Says it’s part 180-5119-02. However, I thought it was a leaf switch and not a roller switch. Check that switch number at Marco and see if it’s whats in your game.

1 month later
#8102 1 year ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Question for you regarding the install of the R Rated Cleland code. Sterns update proceedure calls for .spv files but the one I downloaded is a .bin file.
Will this still work the same? If not, how do I install it?

.bin file for SAM games.

3 months later
#8442 1 year ago
Quoted from Don44:

I just got a twd pro a few weeks ago and love the game but I get way too many shots that goes from the pops to the side rail to sdtm. It makes it really hard to have a decent game. Any fixes for this?

Add a thicker post sleeve at the bottom of the ramp where the ball exits.

#8448 1 year ago
Quoted from mthirkell:

Yes. Add a flipper rubber under the ramp. It took away 90% of the stdm for me. I agree, don't add anything to the post as it closes off the ramp a little.
Anyway, there's a pic in this threat somewhere. If you don't find it, dm me and I'll send you one.

Replacing the circled rubber post with a slightly thicker one fixed my sdtm from the pops 100% and did not affect the tunnel or crossbow/arena shots.
78FA926F-62C1-4BDB-B88C-CA938DD80FAD (resized).jpeg

#8450 1 year ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

That is impossible. You changed the width of the tunnel shot from x to x minus (the increased radius of the new rubber).

What's impossible? Because you narrow the shot by a millimeter with a wider post sleeve the shot no longer can be made? The shot is wide enough that adding another millimeter makes no difference. It's not a tight shot to begin with. The ball hits the wider post as it rolls out of the pops just enough to cause it to fall to the left flipper with little impact on making the tunnel or arena shots.

#8453 1 year ago
Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

The impossible part is "did not affect the shots" and "narrow the shot by a millimeter".
Both cannot be true at the same time.
A thicker post makes the shot narrower. That is the definition of changing the shot.

Sorry, but I'm sticking with what I said and I believe this is the easiest and best fix for the sdtm from the pops. Adding a thicker post did not affect the shot, no change in my ability to make the shot, no increased brick shots. It is narrower, but it doesn't matter. If this were houdini, it would matter.

9 months later
#9379 3 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

The arena ramp jump over to the bicycle ramp above the pops has been documented by 3 other pinsiders on this forum but no solutions as yet. I will try to rig up a plastic shield. This game does get some speed. Also my riot shot does skip over into the tunnel orbit when it gets speed. Shouldn’t have polished the bitch.

Not sure if this is what you are referring to, but I had balls flying off the arena/crossbow ramp in the area pictured. I put some magnetic tape along the sidewall of the ramp and it completely eliminated the problem.
38F83602-D21A-4E4E-96B3-676C6A7BC415 (resized).jpeg

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