Quoted from coasterguy:
A little trick I thought I would share. My prison magnet was literally throwing balls down the center at high speed ALL THE TIME. I checked under the playfield this morning and simply cut the zip tie holding the black wire going to it and re zip tied to a couple wires on the toward the right a little. It needs to move as we know but what seemed to be happening is it was always set in that one spot because of the way the black wire had been secured at stern. Not a huge deal by any stretch but, now it seems to hold steady to the right a little tiny bit and it has made a huge difference so far from what I can tell.
Popping the hood and trying that now thanks.
Purchased an LE on pre order, cancelled it after seeing the initial videos of early play and code along with the sound package at that time. Fast forward now a year later ( 2 weeks ago ) had the chance to pick up a HUO LE in pristine condition and all I can say is WOW I'm so glad I did so. It would have been great to still been in it from day one, but on the other hand I did get to miss a lot of the growing pains with it but I know you guys who held on are really enjoying reaping the rewards from doing so now. What an amazing pin, I didn't load the custom sound pack as of yet but I need to do so.
So my TWD LE didn't have the plexi glass protector on the entrance of bicycle girl ramp, and after a few calls to Sterns in attempt to purchase one with no avail I decided to make one of my own and in addition dress it up a bit like when she was crawling thru the field. It's cut from 1/8 plexi backed with Gorilla Tape to hopefully alleviate the issues of them cracking from the ball smashing into them. Thus far it's still good so I should be adding lights to it shortly, and believe it or not there is no view obstruction of the ramp or BG head beneath the ramp.
Quoted from crwjumper:
Very nice mod! I'd ask if you are going to make them, but I'm sure that it would be time intensive and price prohibitive. I hope that the ball doesn't hit it too often. Great work!
Not going to make them but real easy to do, the one thing I found out is that this girl from McFarlane figure sets was like $9.00 when I bought it now they are $60+ but if you happen to find one cheap I'll help you make it or send her to me and I'll make it for you.
Quoted from bigd1979:
Why does this help? Also which way do you turn it?
You know I cannot actually say in theory why it helped, but just from a guess I would say that by rotating the core a 1/4 of a turn actually changed the direction the magnetic field pulses and grabbed the ball just enough to change in path of SDTM. So I can't say for sure but maybe the density of the core has more of a pull to one side or another for some reason it that makes any sense.
However it did work for me and maybe will for a few others as well. No hurt in trying if it don't work for some just screw it back in the 1/4 of a turn towards it's original starting point so no harm no foul.
I have a crossbow question:
Is the crossbow supposed to be lined up with the same targets as shown in the animations on the DMD? I find my crossbow to be lagging behind where is pointing on the DMD during it's animation sequence. Anybody ever notice this?
Quoted from NPO:
When you go to rotate the magnet, do you turn CW or CCW to make the adjustment?
Either direction, I feel the magnet against the PF and if it's on the high side I go lower and likewise for the opposite. Don't need to turn it much just enough to change the path. Then be sure the hold the flathead screw driver on the core shaft when tighten the nut again so it don't move from it's new set position.
Awesome, did you happen to find a LE that you were looking for or did you get a Prem?
Pinball life sells the Red plastic protectors set for the Pro, but you can use them on the LE /Prem models. You just need to put a 1/8 spacer under the left outlane plastic on the screw closest to the flipper. So the crossbow can pass through it without getting hung up.
Oh and the lighted Woodbury and hitchhikers signs are great too.
Quoted from kcZ:
Likely an over reaction by me after a frustrating session
Agree 1000%, and it is a awesome game that will be missed immediately. I'm glad to see Stern make a machine that has a bit more challenging shots with a great deep rule set where we as players have to setup our shots, nudge a little and think rather then just hitting off the flippers on a fast flow. For me this game brings back the likes of TSPP and LOTR but with a twist. We are now at v1.56 but just think of how much better it might be as the code matures, although it's awesome right now. I'm really glad I was given the chance to grab an LE, and would do it all over again if I had too.
Quoted from bigdaddy07:
Where exactly does it active in the game?
I have mine on max and here are some of the shakers interactions:
Prison Multi Ball
Well Walker Multi Ball
Well Walker Hits
Blood Bath Mode
Bicycle Girl Hits
In the Pop Bumpers on certain modes
and much more just can't recall....
I had to do the same with my TWD LE including adding some felt to the glass under lock bar for it was rattling the shit out of it. I guess the same way that not all tables play the same maybe not all shakers rumble the same.
Did you crimp into the wire that comes down from the barn? Then of course the other crimp is the flasher under the pops.
That EL wire mod is nice, I just checked Pinball Refinery but I only find additional color wires not the whole kit.
Quoted from Concretehardt:
The leads that come from the barn were just plug in jumper with Z connector. I crimped the one for the pop flasher and it works fine.
and you checked to make sure black was to black? I thought I read somewhere that some of these towers may have had a few leave with the wires reversed in some of the plugs.
My mistake, the tower white flasher should light with the barns red flasher. Still the Z connector should take care of that.
I too have had this done on my machine rather then the sling rubber, I would say it does reduce 85-90% of the drains from the pops and does not impact at all on my tunnel shots, just my bad aiming does.
Did you also put the post sleeve back on, I did and tightened it down and hold them in place nicely.
Quoted from Concretehardt:
I am really liking this BG ramp Cliffy protector.
I was just going to post on this. I just installed mine and removed the Stern felt strip because I was getting a lot of airballs from the flap not meeting the playfield due to the foam. Now with Cliffy installed I seem to be getting a lot of denied ramp shots, maybe because of the slop in the ramp itself rocking side to side. I wish Stern drilled these properly as the hole on the left seems so much wider then the hole on the right where the axle goes through.
Quoted from bigd1979:
I did everything you did but there is a fix to help with the slop. Pic attached...put a small rubber ring between metal and clip
Awesome, does it matter which side to put the rubber on? It seems on my machine looking at the ramp the right side is tighter and the left side has a lot of play, which would mean removing ramps to get to that axle.
Here is a short Youtube video of my son playing TWD with the ColorDMD set to red showing some of the animations. Please take note that I needed an adapter kit to finish off the install which of course I didn't know so I don't have it yet but it's on the way from Randy, the screen is just resting behind the speaker panel and does not have the clear shield in front of it and it's a little crooked. In addition if you see the reds going bright and back to red again, that's the camera adjusting the light metering from all the flashes going off, not the display.
Oh and it set to 5 balls (go ahead flame away), yeah we suck as the scores will show but need to learn the machine and ball time will help us.
As you I think red suits it best so that's how I'm going to leave it set, however just think of the colors when the ROM drops from ColorDMD. That's going to be awesome.
Out of all the modes I do think scan looks the best even over the dots and hi rez believe it or not, scan has just the right amount of shading in it to give it some nice depth.
I'm not sure they actually need the game at all. The code is all opened with software with something like Pinball browser for example and it can then be colored from there and saved to a colordmd.rom to be distributed. Yes I agree it does take time and people with a certain skill set to accomplish this and hopefully they will be more receptive to those who possibly have the skills and time to do so.
Quoted from ATLpb:
Stern gives you backup 3A 250V slow blow fuses. I have a ton of 3A 250v slow blow fuses in my inventory.
I don't have a single 4A 250V slow blow fuses sitting around to fix magnets F7 fuse.
Can I use a 3A for now while I wait for 4A to be shipped?
yes you can always go lower amperage but it may blow quicker then usual, but never go over the suggested amperage.
The Tower if you can locate one ($100), the red plastic protectors on the slings and outlanes ($25.00), lighted woodbury and hitchhikers signs (approx. $35.00 each).
Oh and PinGraffix pin blades to dress up those black sides.
Quoted from Concretehardt:
Curious will the BG ramp dimple the cliffy without a little piece of foam on it?
It's stainless steel so that would be pretty hard to do considering that ramp only rests on top of it and doesn't ever really slam into all that hard, unlike a scoop protector see's and they really don't dimple either.
Quoted from Shapeshifter:
Also is it normal for ball to go so fast on right ramp it then jumps across and starts the crossbow?
Are you sure the crossbow light isn't lit when this happens? You load the bow from the right ramp.
Actually a better question is, does the crossbow animation and sequence start when the bow moves out to shoot? If so then the light was on, if not and the bow just shoots at position one then it wasn't ready to be loaded.
Quoted from Shapeshifter:
I can't think of a solution yet.
What I did but it was the prison for me, was loosen the nut underneath and 1/4 turn the magnet core and then tightened it again. Remember you don't want the magnet to high or low from the playfield so go in the direction that is best for the setting it is at now.
Awesome score but it looks like you need to tone down the backglass light a little bit, seeing a lot of reflection off the glass.
Yep those are necessary with the DMDs for sure, with the colorDMD you don't need one at all.
Quoted from NPO:
Well, I'm going to go ahead and say it here first: I am considering selling my TWD Pro.
That being said, this game will be coming with a couple mods - Mezelmods fishtank lighting (note: NOT an actual fishtank), Zombie Apocalypse mod (biohazard flasher emblem that goes underneath the bicycle girl ramp), Woodbury sign tied into the insert so it flashes when it is time to hit the Woodbury shot.
Game has 329 plays on it.
Anyone is interested, go ahead and PM me. I'll more than likely be putting up a thread soon with pictures and videos as I usually do.
Search my name here in the thread to get some pictures and things I have done to my particular TWD Pro (Go to top of page --> "Find Posts in this Topic" --> put my name in --> BOOM, you found my posts and pictures).
upgrading to a Prem or LE?
Quoted from crwjumper:
How is this mod holding up? Have any airballs hit it? I just got my figure used on Ebay for a reasonable price and will be following your creative lead. But I'd like to know if it's in a vulnerable position - if so I'll reinforce it or shield it.
Thus far I had zero issues with it, I also installed the cliffy drop ramp protector and removed the stern foam fix which makes the ramp sit flush now so air balls just about never happen there now.
Quoted from Euchrid:
Just joined the club too. One question/problem: my left ramp (on the premium) rejects a lot of balls. I presume this is because the plastic ramp part sits a bit higher than the BG ramp flap (where the two meet) which it hits and stops the ball. Is there a fix to make the two flush? Is this a common issue?
One thing I had found is that the Stern fix for that ramp cause the ball to go to the air many times on shooting the ramp. So to fix this I ordered the Cliffy protector, removed the Stern felt strip and both meet pretty flush now and hardly ever get any airballs. In addition you might want to put that rubber ring on one side of the shaft that the ramp pivots on, this will hold the ramp steadier as well and should have very very few denied shots now.
Anyone else notice their Cliffy BG ramp protector getting dimples in it from the screws? To be fair I did remove the Stern fix to seat the ramp flush with the PF.
Quoted from vicjw66:
You might want to remove the cliffy at some point to see if it is also damaging the playfield. If the steel is dented, decent chance the wood underneath is too.
Yep been doing that. Interesting thing I found is that I also had mylar under the cliffy to protect the PF and that was now wrinkled to shit. No wood damage thank God, but in the process of Goo gone to remove the glue and a fresh set of wax, but do I dare put another piece of mylar back?
This frigging BG ramp is frustrating me to no end, my shots are now getting denied more times in the past 3 games then I have been denied asking my wife for sex in the past 26 years of marriage.
I'm sure it all has to do with the metal flap on the ramp with such a steep angle that causing the rejection, but come on Stern really. You guys couldn't have made the flap wider then the current 3/4" to give the ball a better surface approach.
Now if I make a new flap the cliffy is useless, if it stays this way the game is very frustrating. Piss poor design, they should produce a new drop ramp with a bigger flap to address this and it will address all the airballs as well. I can see this LE going up for sale very soon....
okay rant over
Quoted from kpg:
Trust me, the frustrations I initially had with the game almost made me want to sell it. Once I dialed it in that's not the case anymore.
I don't get many rejections off that ramp - can you take a picture of how it sits on the playfield? I fully removed that foam and have a Cliffy's there so it sits flush with the PF. Now, I can't say it never gets rejects, but when I nail the shot it works 99% of the time. When it rejects it means I had a bad shot and I know that was the reason. I actually find it to be one of the easier shots in the game besides the Barn shot. There must be something that can be done to make your ramp shots better...
It was fine until I took off the protector cleaned and waxed under it, changed the mylar underneath which was wrinkled to no end and put a fresh piece and then reinstalled the cliffy. Like yourself I took off the Stern weather strip fix and it does sit pretty flush. I think it's the bend in the very short flap.
Sterns fix was a piece of foam "weather strip" style stuck on the bottom of the flap and riviets. It raised the ramp a bit higher then usual and caused many balls to go air bound.
I have in Red and installed them on my LE. Now because of the crossbow arm you'll need to put a small washer/spacer under the left outlane plastic raising it a hair so the crossbow arm now swings through it free and clear from any obstructions.
Quoted from T7:
But did you purchase these from Pinbits? The image looks like the protectors sold by Pinball Life which is only 4 pieces, red and not from pinbits.
You are correct, my mistake. This is what happens when you logon before coffee and without glasses LOL. Well the Pinball life lower plastic set works and looks good, can't comment on the Pinbits set. Sorry.
Quoted from crwjumper:
Doh! Sorry about that! Change made to the original post. Thanks again for the great idea. I agree that she is in a dark hole and hard to see. I was thinking of adding a spotlight to make her more visible. Where did you put your light? (Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery . . .)
No worries was just having a little fun, glad you liked the idea. Okay what I did was order this select "Pico" super tiny LED in green (or whatever color you wish), selected the voltage of 7-19v AC or DC from the following site. You can also use Nano if you wish, Pico is real tiny.
I then dremeled a tiny hole just on the inside of her left forearm so the light is totally hidden from view, ran the wires across underneath, used a piece of Gorilla tape or duct tape to hold the wired to the plastic and protect them, then just dropped it under the PF and connect then to which ever you choose, insert GI etc... even a flasher if you wish.
I will make a video if you wish to see it, just need a few days before I can do so. Work is getting in my way of having fun.
Quoted from cooked71:
I've thought about throwing a colour dmd in for the moment and setting it to white. Anyone done this?
Hell Yes........Awesome. The white will still be red with the gel plexi or you can order a clear one and set it to any color you like. Scan mode is awesome I posted a video of it quite some posts back in the thread.
There is a mounting kit you'll need to order as well for the newer stern panels and that comes with the clear shield.
Quoted from jkashani:
Sorry for not being clear. The right ball drain lane in the area of the slingshots and flippers. The left slingshot often shoots it right into the drain lane and nudging the games does nothing to prevent that.
Those are the outlanes you can buy wider star posts and put those in, in addition there is a fellow on here who sell the lane extenders which help a bit.
His name is: yoyokopter ,shoot him a pm to order them.
The first thing I do on all my stern machines is disable that annoying digital knocker.
Quoted from Concretehardt:
Does rotating the prison magnet 1/4 turn change the direction of the ball when it leaves the magnet?
It did for me.
Actually let me clarify this, I rotate the magnet core and protector itself not just the magnetic coil. I moved it a 1/4 of a turn in a direction that I felt was safe judging if it might have been a bit too low or too high before starting. It tosses my balls (hehe) in all directions now and made a huge difference. I'd say since the adjustments maybe three balls went SDTM. In addition I also leveled my machine with a 2' tilt to the right that if any were coming right back it might just catch the right flipper. Finally make sure the rear to front pitch isn't too great, this will also effect the pulse of the magnet more or less taking the pulse away and just making a straight drop.
These are things I found that worked on my machine but everyone's machine, house floor are different. So just invest a little time into some of these things to see what works for you and you'll love this machine and keep coming back for more punishment.
Now to find this horde that everyone is speaking about..............
Quoted from goldant:
Probably worth $30/40 I would think
Just the Tomica Winnebago from 1975/1976 in decent used shape is selling for this price alone on ebay without any modifications done to it. Their are cheaper ones on there but they have heavy wear issues.
I'm in the process of opening up mine and adding headlights which will work with the GI's and a internal red flasher that will fire with the pop bumpers.
Quoted from Edenecho:
So got to play some games on my brand NIB walking dead premium, and it was a great feeling having the first plays on a machine!
I have two questions for this club:
I have added some photos of the BG ramp, and recalled some posts earlier: Is this ramp out of alignment, and should I do the fix with post/washers to make it straight with the main ramp? I had no large issues hitting the ramp, but it looks as if it could maybe be damaging to the ramp edge over time?
Also, had a couple of times when the machine did not register that the ball had drained. is this a known issue that may occur? I assume a trough switch might have gotten a bump in transport or something.
It looks as if the right side hex post of the ramp needs to be grinded down a bit to bring it flush with the drop ramp. This will stop most of the airballs and denied shots.
If there are no major updates coming down the road that changes the animations all that much, ColorDMD really needs to get cranking on this title if they aren't already in the process..
I think it was sarcasm, it's more like cow tipping needed to knock these over when setup.
Quoted from hoby1:
SOOOOOOOOOO glad I went premium on this game!!!!!
Glad that you listen to those of us who have experience with both models. Both are great machines and you should always buy within your budget, however if the Prem model was still in your budget it was well worth the difference on this title.
Quoted from VolunteerPin:
which is the overall most preferred?
I have a few different versions of the more popular ones folks are running, and I just ended up going back stock for in the meantime. For the people in my house and who come over and play just found it easier with the stock call outs and directions on what to shoot for versus a random voice call out from the show, but once you master the flow and rules a few of those packages are great.
Quoted from stoptap:
Is the 'knocker' sound stored as a sample ? I wonder if the sound can be changed in Pinball Browser ?
I believe in the browser under sounds if you sort it by duration it is "Script 0x15 (0min00s108ms)". You would need a real fast sound to replace it with.
BTW same location for those with MetLE / Prem as well.
Quoted from stoptap:
How critical are the length of the short samples ? Could you put in a longer sample ?
I don't believe so, you can always put a shorter length sample in and have some dead space at the end but a longer sample will get cut short. That's if it follows the same theory as when replacing songs.
Quoted from Manic:
Any more news about this?
Other then me harassing them on every colorDMD hint photo with TWD guesses and tell them I'm about to throw the towel in and give up on seeing it in color when it wasn't, I was told by the big man himself to be patient and not to give up so quickly. So I would say for sure it's in the pipeline for a 2017 release.
Lyman seems like a perfectionist so at some point I believe he will come back and address those loose ends that need minor tweaking, as far as it goes for that horde light bug on my machine I would have never have known for I never even got there as of yet lol. (pathetic right)
Maybe I should take the glass off
I know I had found when I rotate my core about 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn and that did the trick for sure. You can also have the machine pitch slightly towards the right flipper and that would help with that SDTM and also coming down from the pops where many were getting SDTM. Try some of those simple adjustments it did wonders for my machine but every machine is like a women they each have their own attitudes .
Finally got to Horde tonight, the next time I do I'll be sure to watch the playfield this time
Quoted from Manic:
Regarding ColorDMD... Does this mean they figure there will be no more game code updates?
I'm pretty sure even if it does get an update or two down the road for tweaking code and such, it's shouldn't affect the colorDMD unless animation changes are made although I could be wrong.
Quoted from gweempose:
I kind of like the way you can see the insides of the game, especially if you have a speaker light kit installed.
Quoted from NightTrain:
What do you mean it's set back far? Farther than the normal DMD?
Yes, the Sterns needed spacer for their slant speaker panel does sit the ColorDMD back a bit further then normal mounted ColorDMDs. As far as it goes from the side seeing inside a bit, a little black felt or weather stripping around the dmd will darken out any backbox lighting that you may see from the sides.
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