(Topic ID: 106132)

TWD Club, only walkers not welcome !!!


By pinball_erie

6 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #129 Link to EL wire kit from Pinball Refinery. Posted by Tmezel (6 years ago)

Post #236 Link to custom rules cards. Posted by gweempose (5 years ago)

Post #404 Burning barn mod. Posted by Tmezel (5 years ago)

Post #690 Evil Dead sound package link. Posted by ezeltmann (5 years ago)

Post #783 Link to LE/Premium sound replacement options. Posted by ezeltmann (5 years ago)

Post #2893 Link to rules doc for v1.60, still being updated as of May 2018. Posted by e4mafia (4 years ago)

Post #4216 Guide to Walker Bombs! Posted by ezeltmann (3 years ago)


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14
#5744 3 years ago

Joined the club, my first LE.

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#5747 3 years ago

Are the insert decals are a little raised on this game?

The inserts themselves feel flat. But the decals aren’t totally flat, like it is on other sterns

#5753 3 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Looks great and awesome lineup! Which inner art blades are those on your TWDLE?

I’m not sure where they are from. They were on the machine when I bought it.

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1 week later
#5807 3 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

I thought there was a switch you need to turn on for code to update. Thats the only thing i can think of.

Dip switch 8

#5837 3 years ago

Has anyone ever made metal aprons for the premium/LE version?
I would really like to get one to replace the crappy plastic

1 week later
#5869 2 years ago

I decided to try to make a metal apron for TWD LE.
I had to cut off 1 of the 4 holes for the score cards to allow the crossbow mech to fit. So I’m looking for some ideas on what to do with the left side.
Im leaning toward cutting out a section and adding colored plexiglass with the shadow of a hand or something like that. Let me know if you have a cool idea.

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#5876 2 years ago

It doesn’t sound like this game is for you. If the pops are bugging you and the shots are so hard that you’re not having fun, then sell it and get a different game.

Lots of people have sold this game because it is frustrating. There’s a TWD LE on the market right now with “the game is too freaking hard” as the reason for selling it.

#5891 2 years ago
Quoted from bgwilly31:

ugggh i was hoping it was a bit easier. so theres some sort of laser beam thats in front of the doors and thats the trigger>? Its not mechanical.
btw my game is new out of box so id assume it has no cliffy type protector.
PS. i would assume i need the protector for the bicycle girl ramp>? Maybe even the light as well for the bicycle girl. But i havent found the vendor that seels those.

There is an opto in front of the doors that triggers the hits.

The bicycle girl light mod is made by pinsider gnassel.

The bicycle girl ramp protector is sold by cliffy.

#5895 2 years ago
Quoted from bgwilly31:

the bicycle girl ramp protector is a must mod right>? does one just pm "Cliffy"

I usually email him and he will invoice me. I’ll pm you his info.

#5902 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I've put on probably 600 plays since I've gotten mine and it still beats my ass. I foresee that after getting 1k plays, it'll still kick my ass, and even after 1500 plays it will yet still kick my ass. There's something about it that makes me press start one more time.

I think you have to be the type of person that enjoys a really hard game. That struggle makes the good games you have so much better.

Without disappointment you can’t appreciate victory.

1 month later
#6059 2 years ago

http://www.ulekstore.com/Bicycle_Girl_Ramp_MOD_for_Stern_s_TWD_pinball_p/clear_acrylic_twd.htm

Ive never ordered anything from ulek. This looks like what you need though

1 week later
#6074 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Can anyone tell me out of the box does the right drop target have a decal on it from factory?

Mine doesn’t have one.

#6077 2 years ago

Can you take a picture of the sticker for the Woodbury drop target?

2 weeks later
#6132 2 years ago

Can someone confirm the screws above this guys head are supposed to come down that far?

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#6134 2 years ago
Quoted from francky93:

Hello everybody, i live in France and i have a TWD Premium
I love this pinball and i love to add mods with respect of the theme

Nice Michelin man! I have an old statue of him

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#6141 2 years ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

YES Mine are the same and I never noticed until you shown picture. Now I'll be getting shorter screws and half nut. Would that be counted as a mod. lol

Thanks!

#6146 2 years ago
Quoted from kvan99:

Hiya fellow walkers, I got me a premium it's play great except for a slight hesitation with the crossbow, even when using the button to shoot ball into game there is slight delay, so I have to push it again for it to shoot to ball out, same with the crossbow, sometimes it doesn't let me shoot the ball on the first sweep but works coming back. The switches work in test mode, could it be the gears switch underneath the apron?

I think that’s in the code. They changed it at some point so you can’t fire the crossbow too early.

#6173 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

I've seen a couple of other TWDs and didn't notice the ribbing. Even saw one last night and put a good light to it.
We'll see what Stern says. In the meantime, I'm loving this game! I got to Horde, but really not sure how it even happened. I need to figure out the rules!
Also, can anyone tell me how to lower the power of the shooter lane eject. It's my first Stern and I can't seem to find it in the menu.
Thanks.

Here’s a pic that was in the st be Ritchie dimpling thread. Looks pretty similar to yours

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#6174 2 years ago

If someone could check under their apron for what this looks like I would greatly appreciate it. The hole I need clarification on is for the service rails. I’m assuming it’s a T nut, but I don’t have any with 3 prongs.

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#6178 2 years ago

I don’t thik there is a setting for just the auto plunger coil. Changing the coil pulse power may be your only option. Short of swapping the coil itself

#6181 2 years ago
Quoted from setzkor:

I'm going to replace the spring with something stiffer. That should slow it down some...

You could also try adding a rubber ring to the back of the coil arm. I did that on a fish tales to reduce the strength of the flopping fish topper and it worked well.

#6184 2 years ago

Here’s the list from pinwiki on how to get a multi kill (weapon inserts)

Three Barn shots during Barn mode.
Three CDC ramps during CDC mode.
Completing CDC mode.
Three Riot shots during Riot mode.
Two Tunnel shots during Tunnel mode.
Completing Tunnel mode.
Two Arena ramps during Arena mode.
Completing Arena mode.
Completing the Bicycle Girl hurryup.
Clearing the drop target bank 10 times.
Clearing the drop target bank three times during Blood Bath.
Scoring three jackpots during Well Walker multiball.
Scoring four jackpots during Prison multiball.
Completing three crossbow shots.
Collecting the Start Multi-Kill award.
Completing three fish tanks.
Completing two Woodbury skill shots.
Making 10 combos.

#6192 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

No, you just start, or no you need to complete it?
Cheers

You just need to start it

#6217 2 years ago
Quoted from zephee:

Officially a member of club dead. Brought my Walking Dead premium home this week. What an intense game. The theme fits this pin perfectly.
My machine came loaded with Cleland. It sounds good and reading up in the forums it seems to be what people prefer but I want to give the stock sound a listen to and decide for myself. How would I go about doing that? Do I need to do a factory reset? If I do, will I need to reload v1.6 again? I imagine I would.
thanks

You need to download the latest code from sterns website and update it using those files.

#6242 2 years ago
Quoted from mannymasy:

do you know if each of the multikill lights a particular weapon insert? ... for example to light the insert of the gun that multikill must be made?

Each weapon isn’t linked to a specific multikill. There are more multikills than weapons, so it can’t work like that.

#6249 2 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

If you were here to witness the amount of ass whipping this game has put on me, you'd realize that score was probably a gift from the Pinball God's, and won't be seen again!
I only say lack of skill because I'm very inconsistent. I do occasionally have a game where I'm locked in, but as a general rule, I'm throwing up middle fingers and yelling out stuff I prefer not to write here haha.

That’s not you, it’s TWD

#6270 2 years ago

I think floaty games are usually harder. The ball moves slower, but catching the ball becomes more difficult

#6279 2 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

When you complete CDC with three shots to the CDC ramp yoy light a weapons insert, then you can supposedly "complete" the CDC mode you can light another weapons insert according to the previous rules. My game will not give me 2 weapons inserts lit when i do this.
Did they take that out with the latest code update or am i doing something wrong?

Mine only gives 1 for getting 3 shots. I don’t get another for completing the mode

#6339 2 years ago
Quoted from monkeyboypaul:

is it even possible to lower the magnet's outer ring?

Yes. The entire metal ring lowers and raises. The small core inside doesn’t move independently

#6341 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

On my particular machine, it was impossible to set the magnet flush. I would adjust it to get the front flush, then the back would be too low and it would create a lip on the playfield. If I adjusted to get the back flush, then the front would be too high, and the magnet would create a lip.

You can also add washers under the playfield if you’re having side to side or front to back leveling problems. There are 4 screws that attach the magnet housing to the playfield. Putting a washer under one of them will change the pitch of the magnet assembly.
It took me a long time to get them flush after I had my playfield recleared. But eventually I found the right combination of washers

#6362 2 years ago

Don’t close your outlanes.

The sweet isn’t as sweet without the bitter.

#6381 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I'd like to see protector pics if anyone has some. Pinbits site doesn't show so I disregarded these. I've bought some of their other sets in the past. What do the pops look like... just clear?

Yes they are all just clear

I recieved some duplicates, and not all the plastics have protectors in this kit.

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2 months later
#6756 2 years ago
Quoted from Goalie:

I'm a new owner, what does the X do? How do you light it?

X is lit on an inlane when you kill a zombie. It multiplies the next shot by the X value. The more zombies you kill the higher your X value is. You can move it from one inlane to the other, so you can decide how high to make it and when to use it. Once you drain the ball that X is gone, so you need to know what’s worth using it on and balance that risk vs reward.

#6776 2 years ago
Quoted from CreepyTom:

Does a shaker motor have a lot of use in this game. Trying to figure out if buying one would be worth it.

I love the shaker in mine and I don’t like them in most games.
It feels like zombies are in the cabinet

#6779 2 years ago

Do you mean these screws? There isn’t any plastic there that could strip so I’m confused

Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Quick question,two of the three screws on the R/H prison door external hinge, fell out of my pin. I found one screw up at the pop bumpers, the other one went to never never land I'd guess. So small, didn't notice if one was missing when I bought the game. Does stern or someone sell replacement doors? Not finding them on pinball life or marco. I was thinking of just maybe filling the screw hole with resin and putting the screw back in since the plastic is obviously stripped out.
Thank you,
Jason

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-1
#6782 2 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Yes that’s them, I was thinking the door was plastic and the screws stripped out. Maybe just lock tight then??

I would try to find replacement screws at a hardware store. If the post is stripped, run a tap through it and it’ll be as good as new.

#6785 2 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Think the metal
May be stripped.

It was probably cross threaded at some point. Take the screw to a hardware store and find a tap that has the same thread as the screw.
If you’re unfamiliar with tapping a hole they look like this. You can use a hand tap or a drill to put new threads in the post.

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#6786 2 years ago
Quoted from Black_Knight:

Threads are likely in the rotating post and not on the door itself.
Since they get bashed and opened a lot, the prob just worked themselves loose. You aren’t going to strip three screws simultaneously.
Us a little locktite.

This is correct the threads are in the post not in the door

#6794 2 years ago
Quoted from zephee:

All of the sudden I can no longer divert balls into my crossbow. The yellow light blinks all game and never seems to register.
When I run the "ramp magnet diverter" test while rolling a ball down the ramp it successfully grabs the ball and diverts to crossbow.
Any ideas?

Try active switch test and throw a ball around the whole ramp to see if the other switches activate how they are supposed to. I’m not sure but they might need to be triggered in sequence to turn the magnet on

1 week later
#6805 2 years ago
Quoted from CreepyTom:

How can you adjust the post to stop the center drain from the pops?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twd-lepremium-center-drain-help

4 weeks later
#6911 2 years ago
Quoted from dgposter:

Is it possible to buy an extra Well Walker figure? A few places carry extra Sparky's for MET but I haven't seen the Well Walkers for sale anywhere.

Call any distributor. They should be able to order one from stern for you.

3 weeks later
#7003 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Left ramp doesn’t suck. Just possible it needs tweaking. Same with the crossbow.
The premium is the better game by leaps and bounds. Definitely not worth the money though. The premium never is. Just need to decide if you want to shell out the near 2k extra for the prem. How bad do you want the better game? Haha

This!
My lift ramp is really smooth. And I love the gnassel bicycle girl light mod when that mode starts.

#7017 2 years ago

This is the mech that opens the doors. Make sure the hinges move freely under the playfield when you activate the solenoid.
Also make sure the 3 screws are holding your door in the right spot. I’ve seen these fall out on games and then the door is just being held on by the spring steel.

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1 week later
#7033 2 years ago
Quoted from Scott8806:

My well Walker flasher is burning up all .y flashers have it unplugged right now for some reason it is getting 18 to 22 volts at the connector the little purple and yellow one cant figure out why

The voltage is correct. The flashers are 20VDC. Have you gone into switch test to see if there is a switch stuck on?
Also, VIO/YEL wire is a flasher associated with the right spinner and VIO/ORG is associated with the well walker. Those 2 connections may be swapped if you had yellow purple at the well walker. There are quick disconnects for both under the playfield that could easily be swapped.

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1 week later
#7085 2 years ago
Quoted from delt31:

so I'm about to join the club - this time premium. Giving TWD one more look as my pro experience wasn't the best but that was older code.
For premium owners, I'm hearing about a few must have mods to correct things such as the lift ramp. Can someone confirm what to ensure is on there or buy? Thanks!

I don’t think you need the ramp extender.

The mods I would say must haves are:
Color DMD
Gnassles bicycle girl light
Cliffy ramp protector

3 weeks later
#7168 2 years ago

I’m not sure what the blue and white part is.
There are 3 connections to make on the boards and 2 splitters. The small connector with orange wiring goes to the new board. The other two go to J6 and J7. You remove the connectors that are there and plug in the connectors that have the same color codes.
Then you use the male to male connectors to attach the connectors that came off the board to the harness.
That sounds confusing written out but it’s just a Y connection from J6 and J7 to the topper. In the pics it’s the 2 connectors to the right of the board and the 2 that are dangling in space.

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#7170 2 years ago

Oh ok. You are missing the 10 pin “Z” connector. I did a quick search and couldn’t find a 10 pin available. Marco and pinball life sell them but they only have 2,4, and 6 pin versions.
Since it’s a stern factory topper, I would call 1800kickers. I bet they will have them on hand and would send one out for free.

#7171 2 years ago
Quoted from chubtoad13:

Oh ok. You are missing the 10 pin “Z” connector. I did a quick search and couldn’t find a 10 pin available. Marco and pinball life sell them but they only have 2,4, and 6 pin versions.
Since it’s a stern factory topper, I would call 1800kickers. I bet they will have them on hand and would send one out for free.

EDIT

I just looked at the pic again and you’re missing the whole harness and a Z connector.
There’s a second harness with 2 connectors on it like the one you have.

#7173 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

does that come down from the topper itself or "jump off" the other connector? i have 8 wires coming out of the topper. , 4 orange, 4 purple[quoted image]

That is correct. 4 orange and 4 purple from the topper.
I understand what you mean by the blue and white connectors now.
Where does the 5th orange wire from the connector that attaches to the new board go? It should go to another connector that goes to J6 I believe that is the blue connector

#7179 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

ahh, i see it, it was wrapped around the harness and is not connected to anything. Can you tell me how and where that should attach? there is only 1 wire to that blue connector? looks like that is the 12v wire[quoted image]

That orange wire connects to the missing blue connector. The rest of the wires between the blue and white connector are just pass through wires.

I would still call stern. I bet they would make you the harness. I had a connector issue like this with a replacement playfield and they made me a custom harness to fix the issue.

#7190 2 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Not that this hasn't been beaten to death over the years but f*ck that SDTM drain from the Prison Magnet. Nothing worse than playing a helluva ball only to have the game drain you for no reason other than to be a b*tch. I'll take all the drains from all the bricked shots that I make but god damnit...
k...back to your regular programming...

Whenever that prison magnet grabs the ball I have a moment of anxiety.
I would LOVE a 3 second ball save option. Maybe even a 1.5second ball saver would cover those drains. It happens so fast!

#7197 2 years ago
Quoted from roar:

I ALWAYS double flip to skip the animation and it still drains down the middle.

I feel like this is as effective as not doing anything. You just don’t know(at least on my game) what’s going to happen.

I was able to fix the SDTM drains from the pops. Besides a ball save, or turning the magnet off, I don’t know how to fix this one.
I have thought about rotating the magnet 90degrees to see if it would toss the ball to the side or forward instead of down. Having it work like the doc ock magnet (tossing the ball toward the prison doors) would be fantastic

#7209 2 years ago
Quoted from PBFan:

Isn't this just a simple science lesson - change the magnet orientation and the ball path will change?

I don’t think it works like that. I believe the direction of the ball is determined by the pulse of the magnet and where the ball is in relation to the magnet when that happens.
For instance the magnet turns on, holds the ball in the center during the video sequence. Then the magnet turns off, the ball starts to fall off the magnet and it turns back on and off to pull the ball back up again.
Rotating the magnet 1/4 turn could work if the magnet is at a slight slant and that slant moves away from center from the turn. Otherwise I can’t understand why that would work.

#7211 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

Any links to how to do this, I haven't removed or moved a magnet before? Don't you want to keep it flush with the playfield?

Loosen the nut (1 1/8” wrench, or big ass pipe wrench lol) and then you can turn the magnet with a large flathead screwdriver. Then retighten the nut to lock the magnet in place.
It’ll raise and lower the magnet, so make sure when you reassemble it is flush to the playfield.

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#7214 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I can’t explain to you how it worked for me, it just did. Went from 100% sdtm drains to zero. Guess I just got lucky.

Can you check the edges of your magnet to the playfield to see if it has a slight lean in any direction. Even if it’s flush, I imagine a very small lean could help the ball roll just enough to never send it STDM.

Also how do you turn the magnet 1/4 rotation without it making the magnet sunken or raised from the playfield?

#7224 2 years ago

This morning my wife went Black Friday shopping and I decided to see if I could reduce the constant Prison Magnet SDTM shots on my TWD.

It took 8 different setups, but I think I got it. Unfortunately the solution is not universal and the cause and effect is unknown. Here’s the story anyway;

I wanted to see if rotating the magnet and/or having an slight pitch in any direction, had an effect on the ball. I made sure the game was leveled right to left. The pitch is as seen in the photos.

The baseline for how often the ball went STDM on my game was very high, 75% is a conservative estimate. If you didn’t make a move on the game, you were toast.

Attempt #1
Rotate the whole assembly 180 degrees.
Magnet is slightly high on the right.
Results:
4 SDTM out of 12. 6 out of 12 hit the very tip of either flipper and went down the middle.

Attempt #2
Rotate magnet 1/4 turn.
Magnet is slightly high in the back.
Results:
8 SDTM out of 8. Yikes

Attempt #3
Rotate the assembly 180 degrees.
Magnet is slightly low in the back.
Results:
0 SDTM out of 16. After 16 successful attempts in a row, I played a game and realized the ball wasn’t registering shots to the prison off the flipper.

Attempt #4
Raise core 1/8 turn, added washer under front right screw to level the magnet.
Results:
4 SDTM out of 4

Attempt #5
Remove washer
Magnet is high at 2 o clock.
Results:
7 SDTM out of 28.

Attempt #6
Rotate 180degrees
Results:
6 SDTM out of 24

Attempt #7
Raise the magnet 1/8 turn and add washers to the front 2 screws in an attempt to recreate #3 without as much hop.
Results:
Ball hops and doesn’t register prison hits

Attempt #8 Success!
Remove washers. Adjust the magnet back to level. The magnet is slightly high at 8 o clock.
Results:
SDTM 2 out of 35 and counting.

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#7226 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

What happened when you replaced the magnet core?

Haha. I know my post was long and mostly useless info. I guess I just wanted to let people know it’s possible to make the prison magnet a lot better by adjusting it. (Even though it’s frustrating and can take many tries)
The game is so much more enjoyable when the drains are my fault.

Still @ only 2SDTM throws over 42 attempts!

1 week later
#7279 2 years ago
Quoted from facelift:

My pushbutton on the top of the machine doesn't work that well. For auto plunge it works almost every time but for the crossbow, I can hit it sometimes 2 or 3 times before it will launch the ball.
Just wondering what the fix would be. Should I try bending the bottom switch upwards so that when the button is pushed, it will strike the switch earlier? If so, what's the best way to get at the switch?
Sorry for the noob question.
Great game!

The game code doesn’t allow the crossbow to be fired until it has moved a certain amount. Since it works for the launch button I am assuming you’re pressing it too early. See what happens if you wait for the crossbow to be on the way back to fire it.

#7295 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

TWD prem and TSPP are on my radar right now for next game. I haven't played but only a handful of games on either. hmmm...
I haven't seen a single episode of TWD, but looks like that isn't necessary for understanding the pin.

TWD pin is way better than the show.

The Simpsons tv show is(was) way better than TSPP

#7299 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I think the one I was looking at has the other code/callouts. What is a fair price for a prem Dead?

I believe they are going for right around 6k for a stock one these days.

#7323 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Play better. Haha. Also the Pro is harder than the prem.

That’s surprising to hear. I haven’t played the pro enough to know. But it seems like drains from walker magnet and bicycle girl bash toy would even out the benefit of walker bombs.
Is there something else that makes the pro harder?

2 weeks later
#7403 2 years ago
Quoted from wtuttle:

Anyone with an LE or Premium have any issues with the right drop target switch/coil firing randomly? I kept getting 300,000 'phantoms' points, so I had to disable it to stay sane...sucks when the game doesn't play the way it's meant to. Any idea on what to check? I don't know where to start...
Cheers,
Winston.

It sounds like either the target isn’t able to stay up when the game wants it to be in the up position, or there is a switch that needs adjusting.
Does the coil keep firing, but the target stays up(switch issue) or does it go up and down(an issue with the switch latching in the up position)?

3 months later
#7760 1 year ago
Quoted from Krupps4:

Is there a trick to removing the right plastic return lane protector on TWD? It doesn’t seem to slide up over the post it is attached to. I wasn’t sure if it was just stuck or if I have to remove the post from the play field. I just want to install a red plastic protector underneath the current plastic. Thanks in advance for the help.

Is you’rs different than mine? I have 2 Phillips screws that hold that in place. You just unscrew them and pull them out from the top. They are long screws that go through the playfield into T nuts.

32F1D6F4-1641-4355-A8C2-73ACFA858FD0 (resized).jpeg
#7762 1 year ago
Quoted from Krupps4:

Thanks. It’s the same and I’ve removed the screws. It’s just that the plastic won’t slide up the post attached to the left of the ramp. I’m afraid I’m going to break the plastic trying to remove it. I just thought it would slide off.

Ok I think I understand. I thought it was just the return lane plastic at the bottom. If you’re trying to remove the sling plastic, the top screw needs to come out (attaching the ramp to a hex post). Then the post unscrews.

1 week later
#7792 1 year ago
Quoted from Oneangrymo:

hey guys so color dmd is awesome and all, but it doesn't fill up the whole screen, is there a way to adjust that? I know it can vertically but what about enlarging the picture to fill the screen edges?

Does it look smaller than this?

C06C82DB-E77E-4F7F-83B8-87529806DABF (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#7810 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Anyone think Lyman will revisit this code as he did with MET?

Didn’t he already do that?

1 week later
#7839 1 year ago
Quoted from bgwilly31:

Alright I have had my TWD premium for awhile now. Ive never tried to address this frustrating issue ive had out of the box.
#1 The skill shot plunge. about 75% of the time my plunge gets hung up in the pop bumbers. Never makes it to the inlanes. I havent really tried anything. The plunger appears to be alligned correctly. I guess i could attempt to bend the lane guides in the shooter lane. Mianly curious if this problem has popped up already in this thread.
#2 My crossbow only rotates halfway. Then returns.

#1 is a common problem that can be fixed with some adjustment to the ball guides.

#2 is probably a switch that isn’t being made. Go into game specific adjustments and see if one of the switches doesn’t register.
The crossbow uses a cam mech with switches that have rollers on them to know where it is.

2CB67B80-26C2-4540-96FA-22C1220711C0 (resized).jpeg8FEB2567-1854-43A1-B841-24FE8AF9B582 (resized).jpegEEAFDD3A-CC12-4F3D-B684-AB01C4D25847 (resized).jpeg
3 weeks later
#7929 1 year ago

In a recent interview with Gary stern on H2H podcast, he said they have made 60-70 games a day. (Avg is probably lower, 50? Also probably even lower in the old factory)
He also said they have around 20 titles a year on the lines.
TWD ran for 4 years with varying demand.
Playing with those numbers, and taking a lot of wild guesses about how often it was run I would guess there were about 2500 made across all versions. Could be much higher. I don’t think it’s much lower than 1500 though.

3 weeks later
#8015 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Finally joining the club, w a nice LE on the way!!! Have the fishtank topper and colordmd on order, along w PDI and lit shooter rod (put on all my games).
Is there a post w recommended mods? Can't wait to finally have one in my lineup, where I can dive in, and let the bloodbath begin!!! Thanks...mark
(it shall live between my AlienLE and BSD for horror alley...)

Congrats! The LE package is great imo. The only must have mod for that model is cliffy protector for the up down ramp. Stern issued some foam and Mylar after they were produced. The cliffy just makes more sense to me. It sits flush and protects that while area.

I believe a shaker is standard on the LE, if not, Id highly recommend one.
I also really like the light up speaker grills with rick shooting a zombie in the head.

#8028 1 year ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Getting prepared to do a pf swap soon and wanted to get some direction before I dig into it.
I did a Spike 2 swap recently with a friend,cand that was super easy.
Trying to get an idea as to how many connectors roughly are coming off the boards in the blackbox, and how many from under the pf?
Also, what's the best way to get the pf out? Should I take it out before removing any connections?
Thanks

There are about a dozen connectors from the backbox and 4 or 5 from the cabinet.

If you need any pictures send me a pm. I have tons from a complete tear down I did on a LE

#8055 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Hey gang. Need a little help.
My TWD Pro is only a few weeks old. Last night, I noticed this problem where the auto-launcher (is that what it's called?) is stuck in a forward position. Because of this, regular plunging is almost impossible. Got under the playfield and saw that the nut attached to the launcher is rubbing up against the screw that holds the launch lane switch in place, and preventing the launcher from returning to its normal retracted position. Sorry I don't know all the proper terminology! How can I adjust this? Didn't see anything loose down there.
Your help is greatly appreciated, sirs![quoted image][quoted image]

Have you tried bending the coil assembly slightly? It may be the angle but it looks like it isn’t straight up and down. That would cause the bolt heads to touch. Here’s some pics of my assembly for reference.
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#8056 1 year ago

This is exaggerated but I think your assembly is like the red line and needs to move left at the bottom.

It may just need tightening?

D0B7DDDF-1CA6-48E4-9C99-0BBCAE40594F (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#8117 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Has anyone ever offered a metal apron for the LE? Seems like a natural, and could have plexi inserts ( etched or art)for lit zombies or something.
This game is off the charts fun!!!

Not that I’ve seen. I started making one on my own a while back. But that project got shelved because I couldn’t decide how to address the missing hole for score cards (I did think about cutting them out completely and using red smoked plexiglass with a zombie hand or something backlit under it.)
Hopefully Ill have time to get back to it soon.
43138E16-3E69-42D9-98CA-E98CB364D472 (resized).jpeg

#8146 1 year ago
Quoted from MK6PIN:

Might give it a whirl...Which color looks best?
Bought mine HUO, so no goodie bag...Looking for the decal that goes on the Woodbury drop..Anyone have a spare? Thanks...

I don’t think they had a decal initially. My LE didn’t come with one.

#8156 1 year ago
Quoted from toeskneez:

Mine has the crossbow with the laser. Makes no difference as 9 times out 10 it doesn’t fire when I want it to anyways! I did read somewhere this was part of the code for it. Love to hate the game, one of our favourites! Upgraded from a pro to a premium and the gameplay is definitely different, which we found weird.

The only time it shouldn’t fire is in the first half of the arc. I usually fire it on the return arc because of this.

3 weeks later
#8242 1 year ago
Quoted from Beez:

** Help / Thoughts **
The crossbow kicker doesn’t reset back in the sleeve after kicking out and causes week shots about every other time ... any thoughts?

Replace the coil sleeve? I’m not sure if there’s a better solution

4 weeks later
#8332 1 year ago

I have a bunch of closeups of the different connections if you need more than this pic.

2B1F4AD8-6644-440B-963F-12E40E2F2768 (resized).jpeg
#8346 1 year ago
Quoted from mannymasy:

Where can I buy the replacement for the well sticker? Thank you

Pinball Life has them.

https://www.pinballlife.com/the-walking-dead-well-walker-decal.html

#8366 1 year ago
Quoted from JohnDeere:

Great thanks i just sent him a PM. Any other must have mods from a playability or protection viewpoint?

Not much. Cleland code is a must imo, and whatever you would normally use for shooter lane protection.

Color DMD would be the next thing to get, but doesn’t directly affect playability.

#8370 1 year ago
Quoted from luvthatapex2:

Colordmd lcd and shaker!

Forgot the shaker. It’s amazing on this game!

9 months later
#9260 5 months ago
Quoted from gambit3113:

I found a Premium to buy, but it is bone stock. Is there anywhere I can buy the Bicycle Girl ramp extender anymore? I know that the last source ended up being a scam.

I’ve played plenty of premiums, including mine, that don’t use or need that extender. I wouldn’t skip on the game because of it

2 weeks later
#9370 5 months ago
Quoted from punkin:

I would also very much appreciate this and happy to chip into the original persons PP account for it if that's the done thing. I found the Cleland one, but havn't got the r rated cleland combined with the other music.
Somoenes already done the fish tank mod on my machine. Funny, it came with a spanish rule card and an english pricing card.
[quoted image]

Check the back of the instruction card for English

#9401 5 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Good idea. I have a mark on the core left by some sticky tape. It had not moved.
I took the thing apart. Photos attached. Basically the core is a lump of metal. I cannot see how rotating one way or another makes any difference. Unless there is a weighted density in one direction that is affected by the electromagnetic field.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The pancake magnet has the coils going around this core. I took a bit of the tape off to inspect. Besides a screw which holds all the wire down, cannot see much else.
[quoted image]
Since this is producing the magnetic field, does the position of this make more of an impact? So I took the bracket off and put the wires down the bottom. Zip tied it to the bottom right.
I put it all back together and all sdtm again. So added washers to the mount to make the core a different direction even though I didn’t think this would make a difference.
It did. So I know nothing. Now prison releases are not giving me sdtm. But I was at this stage and sure of myself 2 weeks ago. Hopefully it now stays good.
I noticed when it started to go wrong The ball was caught in the exact centre of the magnet and just released (pictured).
[quoted image]
Most times sdtm. So ball in centre, bad. Until recently When it was working over the past 2 weeks, the ball was always caught to one side so that when it was dropped it did not go sdtm. Something changed.
Anyway as I said turned the coil 180 degrees so wire out the bottom, adjusted core and it works.
[quoted image]
One weird thing, when it releases it now most time gives a slight upkick. BUT if I try to do the flippers on the crowbar hit, it rockets sdtm every time.
So it’s not perfect but it works for me for now.
If I could buy a new core or coil to fix it 100%, I would but I don’t think it would make any difference.
The takeaway from this is that I think everyone's machine will be different. This is not a solution. Just a record of my trials. Wish I had a definitive solution to share. I will let you know if it starts behaving badly again.

I fixed my STDM prison drains by adjusting the pitch of the magnet assembly. I rotated the assembly and put washers between the magnet assembly and the playfield until I found the perfect combination.
It took a lot of tweaking but it was worth it. I haven’t had a drain from the prison in a very long time.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twd-club-only-walkers-not-welcome/page/145#post-4701728

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