(Topic ID: 106132)

TWD Club, only walkers not welcome !!!


By pinball_erie

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8,788 posts
  • 582 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by embryon
  • Topic is favorited by 200 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,488 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

20200131_171516 (resized).jpg
20200131_171524 (resized).jpg
20200116_174106 (resized).jpg
093A15C4-6171-43C2-A97F-76640B8CF68E (resized).jpeg
20200116_143425 (resized).jpg
032 (resized).jpg
009 (resized).jpg
014 (resized).jpg
005 (resized).jpg
013 (resized).jpg
004 (resized).jpg
011 (resized).jpg
008 (resized).jpg
024 (resized).jpg
006 (resized).jpg
IMG_3248 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

10 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #129 Link to EL wire kit from Pinball Refinery. Posted by Tmezel (5 years ago)

Post #236 Link to custom rules cards. Posted by gweempose (5 years ago)

Post #404 Burning barn mod. Posted by Tmezel (4 years ago)

Post #690 Evil Dead sound package link. Posted by ezeltmann (4 years ago)

Post #783 Link to LE/Premium sound replacement options. Posted by ezeltmann (4 years ago)

Post #2893 Link to rules doc for v1.60, still being updated as of May 2018. Posted by e4mafia (3 years ago)

Post #4216 Guide to Walker Bombs! Posted by ezeltmann (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Mr_Bricks.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#4657 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

That's not how the skill shot works. You have to roll over the star rollovers as they both light then have the ball go through the flashing lane. You can change the lane that's flashing though.
Woodbury however, works exactly how you describe.

Hitting Tower is also part of the skill shot.

#4659 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Not since original code.

I stand corrected, my bad.

3 months later
#5198 2 years ago

The only reason turning the magnet has any effect on ball trajectory is because the magnet is not perfectly level. It's off by a half a degree or so. Rotating it changes the orientation of said angle, thus imparting a change in trajectory. You guys with your concepts of magnetic fields are hilarious. This is my opinion based on my experience with TWD.

2 months later
#5650 2 years ago

Who determined the large plastic should be on bottom behind the well walker and why? Mine is on top and seems correct to me. Just wondering.

#5652 2 years ago
Quoted from dzoomer:

There is earlier discussion on this that can be found. IMO, It's limited info but fwiw I changed the large plastic on my TWD from top to bottom and the mech works great. Other posts on the same topic report similar results.

Perhaps the increase in travel makes for a more pleasing effect...I'll have to give it a try.

4 weeks later
#5833 2 years ago
Quoted from Jason_Jehosaphat:

*** Aggravated by Ball Lingering in Pop Bumpers. Are There Fixes? ***
I just bought a TWD Pro. I played another example of a Pro a fair amount at my local barcade, so I understood the pops and how the ball can hang out in there for too long before it dribbles out into the area above the flippers.
Now that I have the pin in my home, I'm truly exasperated by the pops. The ball can't escape. That lowest pop bumper is like a gate keeper. Each time the ball tries to trickle past, the pop says, "Not so fast!" and sends the ball ricocheting back up into the pops for yet another bash around, etc., etc., etc.
I want to disable the pops. I hate waiting for the ball to escape from the pops. It's just too much time to stand there and watch the ball dance. I did see a game-settings menu item addressing how "hard" the pops are. Could that have anything to do with how sensitive/powerful they are? Or is that just about scoring?
Would the game's scoring be completely disrupted if I disabled the pops? Obviously I wouldn't get my pops points, but would other scoring sequences be foiled, etc? What would be the simplest way to do it? I looked at their connections beneath the PF but there are no simple connectors, only soldered leads.
I've played perhaps a hundred games and the problem isn't getting any better. What can I do? It's really turning me off.
J

I found this to be most annoying on the barn shot. Use a small piece of Velcro to change the balls trajectory. The trick is to get the size and placement just right so the ball goes past the pop but does not drain SDTM. Try it, it makes the game way faster. The only downside is you loose the ability to park balls in the pops during multiball.

IMG_20180113_105003 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#5929 2 years ago
Quoted from facelift:

So if you get the cliffy, do you take off the factory foam before installing the cliffy?
My ramp shots are very smooth and i don't want the cliffy to change that. Does it affect the angle of the ramp?
Thx.

I find the ramp is much smoother without the factory foam with the Cliffy protector.

3 months later
#6373 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

What level do you have your game set at? At 6.5 degrees it almost seems like there are strong magnets in the outlanes.

A steeper angle will reduce outlane drains. I have mine set around 7.5

3 months later
#6852 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Got 420M on my first ball last night then have extra ball left, and of course ball 2 and 3, and end d the game at 440M! Turned it off and just walked out... What a ball buster!
Lately I can't seem to get more than 40-50 kills. My record is 89, but seems like this LMS mode is never going to happen.
The game just has too many side drains to ever imagine getting to it.

You have been talking about excessive side drains in one way or another since you got your TWD. I think it's about time you get the YOYOKOPTER mod.

1 year later
#8377 4 months ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

Looking back on some older threads , the amount of thickness needed to allow the ball to mostly avoid the pops is minimal, machine dependent but someone found the thickness of a sticker was enough , I am using a piece of double sided foam tape(playfield side not peeled) which is at most 1.5 mm thick . this could as well be accomplished with a slight bend of the metal of the exit to the orbit itself.
Given how little change is needed I wonder if it was not the original designers intent for the left orbit shot to return back to the flipper. I could not find a any detailed discussion by john borg regarding his thoughts. , Not that I need it any harder but it plays much faster and more brutal with the clean orbit return fitting with the survival theme .

I used 3M heavy duty Velcro, loop side. Game play is so much faster, as intended IMO.

13b675bbdf2bd3206f866e5b23fb77de282f28da (resized).jpg
Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 218.00
6,200 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Fargo, ND

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Mr_Bricks.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside