(Topic ID: 106132)

TWD Club, only walkers not welcome !!!

By pinball_erie

9 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #129 Link to EL wire kit from Pinball Refinery. Posted by Tmezel (9 years ago)

Post #236 Link to custom rules cards. Posted by gweempose (9 years ago)

Post #404 Burning barn mod. Posted by Tmezel (8 years ago)

Post #690 Evil Dead sound package link. Posted by ezeltmann (8 years ago)

Post #783 Link to LE/Premium sound replacement options. Posted by ezeltmann (8 years ago)

Post #2893 Link to rules doc for v1.60, still being updated as of May 2018. Posted by e4mafia (7 years ago)

Post #3005 ATLpb's TWD Audio Mod (NIN + Radiohead) Posted by ATLpb (7 years ago)

Post #4216 Guide to Walker Bombs! Posted by ezeltmann (7 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Monk.
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#7301 5 years ago

I just picked up a TWD Pro yesterday. Game is great so far, but I think it's already time to change the call outs to cleland version. Can someone please let me know how I can get his version and how the entire process works. Is it no different than doing a typical stern update, but with his code?

Edit: I think I've found the code. My only question now is, do you do the update like any other stern code update, but with clelands code? I would assume yes.

#7304 5 years ago

Great, thank you guys

#7307 5 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Seriously, how are you guys getting these scores? My GC is ~435 Mill with two extra balls (one for walker kills and one as a replay award). All settings on default, 7 degree incline, no outlane saver mods or anything.
On a Pro.

I'll let you know when I get home and play it for the first real time tonight. I can't wait to get some time on this machine. Stupid work and responsibilities keeping me from playing my new game!!!

#7309 5 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Unless you're a rockstar pinballer

That I am not.

#7333 5 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I've had this game for about 18 months; it's gonna take a few games
Unless you're a rockstar pinballer

I'm getting closer and with factory settings for everything.

TWD Good Score (resized).jpgTWD Good Score (resized).jpg
#7337 5 years ago

I now feel inadequate. Very nice score.

#7341 5 years ago

Is there a trick to get to horse? The closest I’ve ever gotten was lighting 4 weapons.

3 weeks later
#7408 5 years ago

I’ve noticed that if I hit a drop target down before I start multiball, then hit the remaining drop targets down during multiball they reset without lighting the modes. It will lock in whatever insert I had lit for the drop targets, but it doesn’t light the modes. I’ve also noticed if I hit a drop target down during multiball, but finish the drops after the multiball has completed, the three drops reset without lighting the modes. Is this normal?

I’m not 100% sure this is how it is all the time, I just know there is a point the drops reset and the modes don’t flash.

#7410 5 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Monk: What you describe is the tournament play behaviour. Check your settings if you want it changed.

Interesting. I get extra balls. I will check it out thanks. Do you happen to know where I should look?

Also I did a factory reset when installing Cleland’s code.

#7412 5 years ago
Quoted from DavidPinballWizz:

Monk: What you describe is the tournament play behaviour. Check your settings if you want it changed.

Checked and all my settings are factory. Anymore ideas?

#7414 5 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

After your first mode it takes more than one set of drops to light the modes again.

I didn’t know that. I’ll check it out and report back. Thanks for the info.

All I know for certain is there are times the drops reset and the modes don’t start.

#7417 5 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

If you want to understand more of the rules, read the first post here:
http://tiltforums.com/t/walking-dead-wiki-rulesheet/122

I printed that out, but apparently I didn’t read it close enough. I still have not tried it, but I’m sure this is what is going on. I’ll confirm later but thank you to all that responded. I appreciate it greatly.

#7419 5 years ago
Quoted from roar:

I don’t think it is even that straight forward... for example if you knock down a set and then don’t start a mode and knock down another you cant bank sets towards a future mode you need to start a mode and finish it before making two sets in a row.
I can’t recall if they carry forward between balls, first thought is they don’t. So if you drain after knocking a set down and that set didn’t start a mode you need to knock two sets down again when your next ball starts... I’m foggy on that one though.

I didn’t even think about that. If they don’t carry over, I might not be good enough for this machine. It frustrates me the most by far out of all the games I’ve had.

#7421 5 years ago
Quoted from roar:

It’s a tough game but I love it. I can get to Horde but Seige, Terminus and Last Man Standing all allude me. Was close to seige earlier this week but two quick drains and I was done. I still haven’t cracked 100 walker kills yet so I’m a ways from LMS too!

I’m at 64 walkers I’ve been one weapon from horde. The thing that gets me most is I have less control of the ball on this title than any game I’ve played before.

Don’t get me wrong I do love the game though. It’s no fun if it’s not a challenge.

#7422 5 years ago

Alright I need to revise my last statement. Just reach horde, got 81 walkers, and a high score of 807,977,200.

59D001CA-9A20-4C3D-9A6F-479C38EB6F80 (resized).jpeg59D001CA-9A20-4C3D-9A6F-479C38EB6F80 (resized).jpeg

I’m sure non of you really care, but I am pumped. Also helps to know what’s going on with the drops. Thanks everyone.

3 weeks later
#7508 5 years ago

Every once in a while I hit a drop target with a solid shot and it doesn't go down. I have tightened the springs that pull them down, which helped, but it still happens occasionally. Has anyone else had this happen and found a solution or is this just something to live with?

#7510 5 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

It happens on mine too. Also happens on classic Ballys, and the Stern Stars I'm babysitting. Basically, it just happens.

Roger that, I'll get over it. Thanks for the reply.

#7539 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinstein:

While I have my ramps off I switched out the pop bodies and skirts to translucent red bodies (from pinballmods.com), and black skirts.
[quoted image]

I never noticed the color of mine before you posted this. I now need to change these pops.

1 week later
#7551 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinash:

I'm considering a Pro, but the comments about the pop bumper/magnet drains SDTM have me a little concerned. Can someone confirm that their machine was remedied with leveling, or is it really a design flaw that required additional rubber etc.
Thanks!

It certainly does occur, but I don't believe it is a design flaw. Setup makes a big difference and you can tweak it with the pitch of the game. Most of the time my magnet throws the ball to the right flipper or back into the prison (85% I'd say). If the ball is rolling down the guide from the pops the ball always goes to the left flipper. The ball does not always roll down the guide though. I get most of my SDTM from the pops, but again pitch can make a difference.

2 weeks later
#7624 5 years ago

If you ask me, the fact the sling rubber is higher than the out lane rubber is more of a design flaw to me.

It’s a hard game, plain and simple. I think it’s probably too hard for some. Most people that walk up to it at my house play a couple of games then move on because it’s so hard.

3 weeks later
#7687 5 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

I'm trying to "get" this game. It just doesn't click with me. I can walk up to any other game that I own and everything is very clear what to do. I don't get why everyone loves this code.
Is it because mine has the Cleland code with absolutely ZERO helpful callouts? Does the standard code have helpful callouts?

I don't believe so. Cleland code is much better than original, in my opinion.

2 weeks later
#7793 4 years ago

I typically wouldn’t add something to a game that would change the play beyond what the designer intended. That being said I just installed the yoyokopter outlane extenders and they are great. The only issue I had with this machine before was the inconsistency of how the game played. With the outlane extenders the ball still goes in the outlane, but with far less cheap drains. I also like how you can put different sized rubber rings on the extender to change the difficulty of the outlanes. Excellent addition and I would recommend them to anyone that is getting frustrated by cheap side drains.

#7798 4 years ago
Quoted from pipes:

So basically you changed the play of the game to something other than what the designer intended.
Not knocking anyone that has done this but I wouldn’t consider my scores and yours to be comparable now. The trick is to keep the ball from bouncing into the lanes, not block the out-lanes with an add-on part. You’ll never eliminate ‘cheap’ drains on any game but there are ways to manipulate the ball to reduce them significantly. The more I played the better I got at doing it on this game.
Practice and play better is my suggestion instead of changing the playfield.

I agree with everything but the last statement. I did change the game so I could play it. I actually had it up for sale because it was to hard for me. It certainly is not to hard for everyone, but for me it was and made the game so it wasn’t enjoyable. My GC for stock is 800k plus as I’ve posted in this thread. That was a great game and i believe high score #1 is around 350k also as I have posted in this thread. The problem is I could not play the game consistently as it was stock. Because of that I would get unhealthy mad at the game for the 5M, 10M, 40M games. That is a me problem. I did something to the game to try and make it enjoyable again. I would never again post a high score in here as I know it doesn’t mean anything because I changed the game, but more people can enjoy the excellent coding and gameplay now that this mod is in place. I never said it was for everyone, just for the people that are frustrated enough to sell it.

6 months later
#8526 4 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

idk man, I see scores in the +1 billion range, and I'm thinking I'm a terrible player in a sea of gods...and that this game is easier than what everyone says lol

Don't worry it's not.

#8529 4 years ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

is there a required sequence of shots for crossbow mode?
I know if you miss certain shots and hit a nearby switch like tunnel or riot it ends but even when I hit any of the lit shots clean such as cdc ramp ,arena ramp or barn the mode ends

It's a one shot big score mode. You would want to use your multiplier for the possibility of really big points for the one shot.

#8531 4 years ago

This is what I have always gone by. I don't know how accurate it is but I believe it to be at least close.

From the rules link above:

The 6 "Multikill Weapons" lights in the middle of the playfield (the ones right below the Horde insert) are lit by doing well in modes. Each time you do one of the following, a Multikill Weapon will start to flash:
Make 2 shots in CDC
Make 2 shots in Riot
Make 2 shots in Tunnel
Make 2 (3?) shots in Arena
Make 3 (4?) shots in Barn
Finish CDC mode
Finish Tunnel mode
Complete 3 fish tanks (complete a tank, then hit the woodbury shot to re-qualify fish tank shots. They also re-qualify when you lose your ball)
10 drop target bank completions
Get 3 Well Walker jackpots
Get 4 prison multiball jackpots
Make 3 shots in Bicycle Girl (as of 1.41, you need not necessarily complete Bicycle Girl)
Score x combo’s
Score the bloodbath superjackpot.

1 month later
#8634 4 years ago

It doesn't automatically come with the DMD because some games, like Metallica, have 2 types of backboxes depending on when it was made. Early run games have a wooden backbox where the DMD fits without the kit, I believe. Later run games have a metal back box with the DMD angled differently from the early run games. The metal backbox needs the kit.

#8637 4 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Yea I realized I was stupid haha. I must have ordered that with the kit as it is an option. Its been a bit since Ive done it, but if its mandatory, I must have done it becuase I have them installed in TWD and GB...
I also recommend buying the foam gasket for it as well.. http://shop.colordmd.com/lcd-foam-gasket-stretch-fit/

Yeah I didn't refresh the thread before I posted to see your post.

Quoted from Yesh23:

I realize I'll need to get the bracket but it looks like the speaker window is red, could anyone confirm if the window is red? Maybe it's clear but with the red display behind it, it just looks red.

I'm not sure if it has a red plastic piece in front of the DMD or not, but I do remember my Game of Thrones was Red. I just bought the DMD with the kit and everything worked and looked as it should have. I believe you will be fine just buying the DMD with the kit.

#8657 4 years ago
Quoted from WizardsCastle:

Having a strange issue. When I make the CDC ramp shot in my Pro, the ball get stuck somewhere behind the backboard. After numerous searches, it ends the ball. I start my next ball, make the CDC shot, and that ball disappears as well.
The third ball I send in knocks out two balls, but leaves one stuck.
Once I pull out the pf, all the balls roll down, so I can't see where it's getting stuck.
And because Stern cheaped out and didn't put service rails in, I can't even see behind the backboard with having someone hold it up for me.
Anyone else have this issue, or gave any idea what it might be? The ramps looked unobstructed from what I can see quickly checking it while my wife held it.
Thanks!

I’ve had this issue. The problem is a group of wires sits on the ramp in the back blocking the ball. Pull the playfield and rest the pegs on the lockdown bar area. I believe there is a bundle of wires wrapped in the black plastic in the area of the ramp behind the back board. When you put the playfield back in you have to make sure the bundle of wires doesn’t sit on top if the ramp in the back.

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