Getting my TWD Pro in a week if all goes well. It's got to make a 4 hr trip home after i pick it up but it'll be worth it. I've been wanting one since I played it on location about a year ago. Can't wait! Ordered Pinbits plastic protectors for it and it already has the latest sound package update. Anything else I should pick up? It is mostly stock. Might be speaker grill inserts installed.

This will also be my first modern era Stern. Anything I need to know about these things in general? Im mostly familiar with WPC era games.

Leaving tomorrow to visit the fam in MN, then pickup up on Saturday morning, possibly setting up at my brother-in-law's garage, then heading home on Sunday! I'm getting the itch real bad!

What would changing out a magnet core do? Isn't just a metal post?

I'm officially part of the club!

Previous owner installed lit flipper buttons and I want to remove them. There's too much light leakage and the buttons squeak. Does it matter if I replace the buttons with an internal spring, or do I need buttons with no spring. Is it a preference thing? PBL doesn't have buttons with no spring, and I'm ordering other parts from them and would rather order everything from them anyways.

I've had luck cancelling the animation when the magnet is holding, and nudging it at the same time. It seems to be 50/50 when I cancel, that the ball will randomly fling, and that it will drop straight down. With the slight nudge, if it does the latter, it will move it to a flipper. No need to eat tilt warnings for a possible STDM drop.

In the same boat with a colorDMD. I have to say, the HighRes display actually looks quite good, even though for most games, I'm a fan of the dots. Also, just added a sub to the game and it definitely adds a needed bottom end to the sound.

I feel the same way too, but I enjoy watching other people play also, and I try to enjoy the animations as much as I can when I'm playing any game, but yeah, I completely get it. $400 is a lot for a mod, essentially...but it looks so good!

Anyone have any thoughts on how to fix ball hop with the plastic lane guides? Happens on right flipper. I've tried to loosen and adjust several ways but still can't seem to get it to flow smoothly on slower balls. On faster balls, it flows smoothly.

So use thin on one side and standard on the other? Wouldn't that mess with gameplay? if I use thin on both, would that not mess with the side that flows well?

A fast game is a clean game. A clean game plays as it should. For this game, brutal is an understatement. I've only gotten Hoard once in the week and a half I've owned it. I'm trying different strategies, and I'm like a dog with ADHD when it comes to trying to stick with one strategy. It never works for me! I seem to have the best scoring games when I try to lock in Blood Bath with WW and Prison MB with modes running. I have the hardest time hitting shots other than Barn in this game for some reason. Just have to stick with it I guess and learn the timing of the shots.

There are a lot of threads/comments comparing a pro to a premium, with opinions for or against one or the other.

Pro or premium/le?

Make sure the game is level, and if you get SDTM from the prison magnet, then turning the core 90 degree might help.

Congrats!

I only have the Woodbury sign as a mod. I'm not a huge fan of mods though, but thought the sign looked like it should have come from factory. Other than that, set it up correctly and you should have minimal SDTMs.

Also Cleland's sound ROM is a must have for sure. It's a key topic on page one, you should be able to find it easily. Add a subwoofer, and I hear a shaker is a good addition.

Anybody have any thoughts about the prison opto not registering on some hits? I've adjusted the magnet to be as flush with the playfield as possible, as I though there was possibly the tiniest bit of ball hop what would make the ball skip over the opto, but I still get it occasionally, sometimes 2 or 3 shots in a row. Works fine in the switch test.

Add a washer where?

Gotcha. No, the head is fine, it's the optos that sometimes dont register.

There's a link to the rule sheet in the key topics. That's a good place to start.

Holy smokes! Thats kinda crazy. Wonder why that happened. Was the switch stuck closed while you were playing? Did you find the cause? Luckily it didn't start a fire or anything.

I've tried turning the core and the magnet and it really didn't help in my case. The best luck I've had is alternating flipper button presses when the animation starts, then the magnet actually flings the ball around (most of the time).

The way I see it, Stern should be able to send out a small code update to fix this quite easily. One should include pulsing the magnet randomly, EVERY TIME when it's time to throw the ball, and another should include a 2-3 second ball save afterwards. It really is frustrating to have it go STDM during a really good ball, and at times completely out of your control.

I will be needing these instructions soon too. Thanks for posting!

Here's the code revision by Stern, I think for the most part, you should be able to watch and learn similar strategies to score or (in my case) have meaningful balls.
http://f0727d06e1d39b514478-a613b39d02a32124478c749a23d19af0.r44.cf5.rackcdn.com/TWD156_README.TXT

Can you get a wider shot? I was thinking about doing the same thing. I happened to get an airball deflector with a plastic protector kit for my Pro and it looks like it works out really well. Did you move the light from the plastic and put into the mod?

Thanks, I'll have to consider doing this since the Bicycle Girl plastic on the Pro version looks really cheap. Same with the fish tank/crossbow plastic one the right ramp, but that will have to stay probably...

Just added a shaker to my Pro. What was I waiting for?! Really great integration with the game!

I've had better luck with hitting the flippers alternately during the animation as opposed to both at the same time. All it would take is a 2 second ball save and/or better pulsing of the magnet...but we're talking about Stern here...

Just wish they would release a tiny little update for a 2 second ball save after the Prison magnet, and more random magnet pulses...can't imagine it would be that hard for them to do. But like I said in a different thread, Stern is more busy trying to pull in new customers as opposed taking care of existing customers (with the potential of repeat customers).

i'm not sure if it is perceivable by eye. You'll have to feel it on the pf itself if the magnet is completely flush with the pf or not. Mine still doesn't register occasionally. It seems that there is no way to level it from the front of the magnet to the back.

That's ok because now you'll be a better player playing with the handicap! If it makes you feel better, I've only gotten to horde twice with extra ball awarded at 90 million, and at 20 walker kills. have had the game since July. I suck at pinball haha

I can count on no hands how many times I've intentionally hit the Riot shot...

I believe the walker count was also reduced as well, so it's less than 120 hits. Not sure what that number is tho...

For me, it's the stock sound and art package that I didn't care for. The stock sound really killed it. I mentioned in my review that if it came with the Cleland sound package, that it would have gotten full marks. As mentioned by others, if it would have come with the comic book art package, then I think you would have one of the best machines made-to-date.

TWD is my only Stern machine and I only acquired it recently (July) so don't have any experience updating code. Is the Cleland sound code essentially a re-release of the Stern code except with his sound package inserted? Is that the only code that I need to install to update to v1.60 or do i need to install v1.60 and the Cleland sound package on top of that. Sorry for the noob question.

Cleland is working on updating his code to 1.60. I'm sure he'll let us know when it's ready.

Generally, you want the machine to be level side-to-side and to be set at 6.5 degrees. Set the pitch of the game first, then set the level. You can download a clinometer app on your smartphone and it'll do both for you. Just make sure that the back of your phone is completely flat (no cases) to get accurate readings. For leveling, I like to use the old fashion bubble leveler. Take a small bubble level and place it in a spot towards the back of the playfield, and also in between the slingshots. Level both the rear legs and the front legs. Check a few times to make sure. It helps to have a second person looking at the level so you don't have to climb under several times.

As for game settings, you'll want to set volume under normal boot mode, and freeplay, under the "General" menu settings. For most machines, I like to play on default settings, but if you find you need to tweak ball save times, replay awards (to award an extra ball instead of a credit) or anything else, you'll find that on your own in time.

Make sure you download the latest code from Stern. Put it on a zip drive and in the backbox, flip dipswitch 8 (top one), plug in your zip drive and turn the machine on, follow the prompts. It takes about 45 minutes to upload a code.

Enjoy!

And welcome to the hobby. TWD being your first machine is quite the step! It is a brutally difficult game, but as you play more and your skills increase, it is one of the best games made in pinball. Be patient with it...and "Play better!"

I have pinball life's shaker in mine and I think it does a great job. It doesn't rattle your teeth like some ok ther games do. I would suggest cointaker's shaker if you want to rattle your teeth.

Which code are you on? I'm curious what this is also.

hmm? I'll have to check when I get home now. Has me intrigued.

Found this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-installs-home-directors-cut-noveltytransformers-le

and this:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/nib-the-walking-dead-pro-for-sale

Disabling the pops will really mess with well walker multiball, since the well walker jackpot is activated by the number of switch hits. I think the first jackpot is after 25 switch hits or something like that. The pops are the best way to get these.

The pops also serve as a little respite for multiball in general, especially if you're in prison/well walker MB, and want to stack bloodbath on top of that. Having the balls in the pops will afford you an opportunity to cradle a ball and go for the drops to stack.

I'm generally not a fan of messing with things from factory settings, unless there is a huge flaw in the factory setup. In this case, waiting for 10 seconds isnt a big deal really.

I was just pointing out some huge gameplay aspects being affected, as he asked. He can disable the pops if he wants. Just remember to engage them again if he sells.

Is this why you wanted to disable the pops? TWD is a difficult game, not matter how you cut it. There are definitely games that play easier. TWD is not one of them. I find games like ST or SM (almost identical layout) much easier to play as all the shots return back the the flipper without much danger and the ramps are easy to hit. Yes, shots through the pops are difficult, but that's part of the game. There's no way to really make it easier other than getting the shot right. You have it at home, which means you have the luxury to practice that specific shot until your fingers bleed. You'll progress as you get better, which if you play enough, you will.

I usually put in a dozen or so games that just kick my ass, then I have one game that I do well on...it's like the carrot that it dangles in front of me. Then it proceeds to kick my ass again and again and again. But I love it.

If I want to feel good about myself, then I play ToM or Baywatch

Check to see if the prison magnet is completely flush with the playfield. If there is a lip on either the front or the back, the ball will skip over the opto and not register. If you have a cliffy decal around the magent, then remove it.

If it is as flush as possible, but there is still a lip no matter how you adjust it (lip in the front, flush in the back and vice versa, then what I did was use 2 pieces of mylar to form "steps" on the playfield to flush out the front of the magnet so that it was flat. Now all of my shot register 100%

I've put on probably 600 plays since I've gotten mine and it still beats my ass. I foresee that after getting 1k plays, it'll still kick my ass, and even after 1500 plays it will yet still kick my ass. There's something about it that makes me press start one more time.

There are females that come out during Barn, and I'm pretty sure during multikill animations as well.

I have Titan super shiny in mine with no issues. I want to try Ball Baron ninja balls for my next round when my games need it.

I have a set of yoyokopter outlane save posts if anyone wants them. I'll take $15 shipped for them. Can send pics if needed. Rubbers included on them.

Outlane posts are spoken for. Thank you!

Cleland V1.60

I had the same problem too. It was because the ball was skipping on the magnet and jumping over the opto.

On my particular machine, it was impossible to set the magnet flush. I would adjust it to get the front flush, then the back would be too low and it would create a lip on the playfield. If I adjusted to get the back flush, then the front would be too high, and the magnet would create a lip.

So what I did was set the magnet to be flush with the back of the ring and then create a "step" with two pieces of mylar so that the lip created by the magnet in the front would be smoothed out. Now as the ball flys over, it doesn't hit a lip and jump over the opto. It works 100% of the time, even on the hardest hits.

"Play better!"

That's like setting a video game difficulty to "Normal" for this game at least. It comes set as "Extra Hard" from the factory lol. I'll probably never see it without the glass off...

I made the mistake of cleaning and waxing the game. Now it's barely playable until it gets at least a little dirty. I can barely start modes and light my extra ball now (at 6 kills). Faaaccckkkk.....

Easier solution would be to sell the CT shaker and get the Pinball Life shaker.

Easy is relative. I would find it easier. Plus no need to order a mod for the mod, so cheaper too.

Your ball save should catch at least the first STDM drain after the first plunge into the pops. Timers stop when the balls are in the pops, so you wouldn't have lost it on your first plunge. Play it out, man.

If you see a lot of these, check side to side level. It happens to me maybe 10% of the time, if that.

So you've started flipping and it drains after a ball save. Then you definitely need to play it out! But it's your game, and my opinion is just that. Keep flippin'

PS. Most of the time, it's a setup/leveling issue. Check that both the front and the back are level, just to make sure.

Have you tried gapping first?

Try bending the actuator downwards (towards the switch) so that it takes a longer throw to activate it (the knob at the end is further from the plate). A needlenose pliers would be helpful.

Here's a link to the rulesheet. it's for 1.60 but it's helpful.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twd-club-only-walkers-not-welcome/page/58#post-3202060

all day e'eryday

Not that this hasn't been beaten to death over the years but f*ck that SDTM drain from the Prison Magnet. Nothing worse than playing a helluva ball only to have the game drain you for no reason other than to be a b*tch. I'll take all the drains from all the bricked shots that I make but god damnit...

k...back to your regular programming...

Didn't think I'd spark a whole magnet string again! I've done it all, rotated the core, rotated the magnet, double flip (yes, at the right time), alternate flips, a sacrificial goat, it's all chance.

Some days the magnet barely pulses but it's just enough to move the ball one way or the other. Other days, I swear I can hear the game say "f*ck you HAHAHAHAHA" then proceed to push the ball SDTM. I think it's purely in coding, because I'm sure i've heard Lyman mention something in an interview somewhere about this problem (i think it was in the video with Nate Shivers??)

I have an XMLE and the Wolverine magnet ALWAYS throws the ball around, never a straight drop down. I don't think it has anything to do with hardware. I think it needs to be programmed to pulse and throw. At least have a setting that has Prison Magnet low, med, high so that way you can choose to get screwed or not. Or a 1 sec ball save. TNA has like a .8 sec ball save when it comes flying out of the scoop for SDTM drains.

I really dont think it's a hardware issue.

Yeah, didn't really want to debate what causes it, what the fix for it is, or who's right or who's wrong, just wanted to vent the one flaw that I've found with my particular game. I don't get drains out of the pops like others do, I keep my game cleaned and waxed regularly, pitched to my liking, with little (if any) side-to-side leveling difference. My game is set up as you would expect an enthusiast, home owner that likes nice things, to have it set up. There are times where my magnet is very lazy at slinging the ball left or right, but it's enough to angle it towards a flipper. Then there are times where the magnet just lets the ball go. Then there are times where it Rocket Raccoons the ball SDTM. As I've mentioned before, the Wolvie magnet on my XMLE flings the ball like a bat out of hell going this way and that. I would say 1/5 times, the ball is active out of the Prison magnet, even with all of the rituals that have been suggested in this thread. I would like to see if the magnet coil itself behaves in XMLE as it does in TWD. I'm not sure if the connections are the same, but I might do some testing to see.

Seriously, how are you guys getting these scores? My GC is ~435 Mill with two extra balls (one for walker kills and one as a replay award). All settings on default, 7 degree incline, no outlane saver mods or anything.

On a Pro.

I've had this game for about 18 months; it's gonna take a few games
Unless you're a rockstar pinballer

It's not. The only available (to me) EB is at 6 walker kills otherwise. The next is at 60 (?) and 10 tower hits. Yeah right!

So, on a good game, I get at most 2 EBs.

Yeah, been trying that

I usually try to stack Bloodbath + Prison, mainly for progression towards Siege. Getting a mode in the mix is bonus for me. I usually go for Horde since I've seen it a couple times and it's just so good, especially with a subwoofer to really pronounce the thumping sound. Best in all of pinball! I'm not sure what my best bonus X shot is, but I wanna say it's around 100 mill. I'll have to check when I get home.

Do Walker bombs have an Add-a-ball effect during multiball?

Can anyone confirm that the sizes of rings on Titan's Database are accurate for the Pro? I saw another thread just posted stating that what's in the manual is inaccurate and that they've spent $200 in extra rings that they didn't need (I'm not sure how that's possible?)

https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5679

I definitely see some discrepancies with your list and even the 4 lists on Titan's Database, with sizes listed and with QTYs. The QTYs aren't as big of a deal, since I would rather order a few extra than not have enough, but the sizes listed is what bothers me. So you used all of the sizes in that list, with the "Count" as you have, not the "Extra"?

I saw that as well. Without a key to determine what the actual sizes are, it's not really helpful.

I will go based off of your list then. It better be right!

It happens on mine too. Also happens on classic Ballys, and the Stern Stars I'm babysitting. Basically, it just happens.

I think the software could be improved to give more random action when the ball is held at the prison magnet. There's nothing worse than playing a kickass game only to have the game throw the ball SDTM. If i brick a shot and drain, that's my fault and I earned it. If i'm playing well, don't stop my groove and kill my ball.

Pop drains happen 2% of the time. Prison SDTM drains happen more than it ever should.

In most cases, the magnet doesn't even toss the ball though, it will just drop it or actively fling it SDTM.

My game is pitched properly and is level side-to-side. I've checked the front, and the back. I've rotated the core, rotated the magnet coil. I rarely get SDTM from the pops, which is a leveling issue if you do, but it's hit/miss for SDTM on the prison magnet. I would be 100% ok if the magnet had more action and throw it down the middle occasionally. Wolvie in XM does it sometimes (left outlane esp), but I can at least see activity of the ball. On my TWD, I see little or no activity. A 2 second ball-saver or more action is all that's really needed.

To your point, I may just turn it off, because it really doesn't do anything in the game other than give time to look at the animation, and screw me over lol.

I think it was 1/4 turn (so like noon to 3). I couldn't do it too much, otherwise it wouldn't be level with the pf. I'm not sure replacing the core would really do anything, since it's just a hunk of ferrous metal. I would imagine it might be ok for a while, but at some point would start doing the same thing, unless materials are different than from what Stern used. We always talk about this to death lol, like zombies looking for flesh.

Pinball Life has stainless steel core magnet cores. Would these be the same as the ones that Stern uses? Or a different source/manufacturer?

Terry pinballlife - Would you know?

I will be there! lol

My pro isn't going anywhere any time soon. as a matter of fact, it is now the oldest game in my collection since I've started collecting (only about 2 years now?)

Space and money Tony. Space and money...

Looks good! I need me a colorDMD (or 3)...

I hear ya. But we're all collectors here (for the most part), so our asses have been down an even bigger slope already!

I only saw a few pics, but has anyone put bloody hand/splatter decals on their TWD?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07J4LDD2D/

I found a set for 4 bucks. If they look good, I can send you any extras.

I had the game reset on me after starting Horde. It ejected 2 balls, and about 15 seconds later the flippers died and it restarted.

I had just re-rubbered the game prior to this, and was one of my first test plays, (I really hate those dinky little pegs btw). I pulled the playfield out and had it resting in the cab, just right have the "hump" on the rails.

Anyone else have this happen to them? Any thoughts on what this might be?

yeah I'm on the latest code. Just really shitty because of course, I was having a great game

I bought a set for $4 from amazon, and used them on the ramps and hand prints on the glass. I did put a few on the pf glass near the upper corners, but I'm not sure I like them up there. It looks pretty good otherwise. Nothing sticks to the armor because of the finish, but not a big deal.

What exactly are the issues? You said it was sticking and doing "funky" stuff...

I would agree with this. It all sounds like switch issues to me as well. Adjust or replace; they all seem to be connected to one another.

If you're using your finger during test mode to activate a switch, and it works, try with a ball instead and adjust the switch so that the ball will activate it.

Got to Horde again last night (2 times in 3 days? The universe must be turning upside down!). The game didn't reset on me, so all seems ok??

Also changed the orientation of the magnet/core 180 degrees and it has more action, for now. I basically just unmounted and flipped it 180 degrees.

LOVE this game.

Basically doing well during modes will get you a Multikill, which will give you a weapon.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twd-club-only-walkers-not-welcome/page/58#post-3202060

A link to the rulesheet that explains how you can collect weapons.

From the rulesheet linked above:

MultiKill
The 6 "Multikill Weapons" lights in the middle of the playfield (the ones right below the Horde insert) are lit by doing well in modes. Each time you do one of the following, a Multikill Weapon will start to flash:
Make 2 shots in CDC
Make 2 shots in Riot
Make 2 shots in Tunnel
Make 2 (3?) shots in Arena
Make 3 (4?) shots in Barn
Finish CDC mode
Finish Tunnel mode
Complete 3 fish tanks (complete a tank, then hit the woodbury shot to re-qualify fish tank shots. They also re-qualify when you lose your ball)
10 drop target bank completions
Get 3 Well Walker jackpots
Get 4 prison multiball jackpots
Make 3 shots in Bicycle Girl (as of 1.41, you need not necessarily complete Bicycle Girl)
Score x combo’s
Score the bloodbath superjackpot.
The Multikill Weapon lights are lit at random (e.g. collect Barn in one game may light the "knife", next game it may light the "gun").
When you lose your ball, all of the flashing Multikill Weapon lights will light solid. If you light all 6 Multikill Weapon inserts, either solid or flashing, you will qualify for Horde (down to one ball). Hit Woodbury to start.

My approach:

Knock down drops on left to light a mode.
Start a mode that is easiest for you to shoot (for me it's Barn or CDC).
Continue lighting supplies (drops) to work towards Bloodbath + one of the other MBs (Well walker or Prison)
During this time, continue to try working towards getting Mulitkills to work towards Horde.

At some point, start a MB and stack Bloodbath when you're down to your last 2 balls. Bloodbath has add-a-balls.

Whilst doing all of this, you're working towards Seige, which is starting all 5 modes....AND you're also working towards Last Man Standing with walker kills.

If you are just working towards Horde, you're basically working towards the other 2 Wizard modes as well.

As far is the individual modes go, shoot the blinking shots. Basically explained in the Mulitkill section that I pasted above.

Thanks for the correction!

You qualify Horde by collecting weapons, and as corrected above, you qualify Terminus by starting all 5 modes.

You collect weapons by getting Multikills, which can be done in a number of ways, which also include doing well in modes.

Yes, it should use the same post. You have the yoyokopter oulane mod installed too, if you didn't know.

If I've learned anything over my short time in the hobby, it's to save parts that aren't destroyed

Just extend the leads with extra wiring to the backboard.

Coincidentally, I installed a colorDMD on my Pro last night that was already running the Cleland code. I installed the most updated chroma.rom and all was good. ColorDMD is the best mod of all time.

I literally spent 2 minutes. RTFM
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5119-02

20190526_092942 (resized).jpg

Likely its 11000 CAD which would put it around 8000 USD.

Good to know. Last time I'll respond to help you with anything.

It's obvious what you'll do. You'll ask for help and then throw a tantrum when it's not spoon fed to you. So bye Felicia.

Would love to see the finished glass!

At this point I would replace the switch. Does it trigger when you pound the playfield with your fist?

If it's from the same lot, I wouldn't be surprised if they all behaved the same way. Might be a good idea to check with a different parts supplier, (if you got the switches from Pinball Life, try Marcos, etc.) TBH, I'm not sure if the lot# is printed on the switch at all. Just a thought. The switches should have a nice positive click.