I also have the same issues as him, also running 1.56 and have a LE. I use the two flipper method but still 60% SDTM.

Popping the hood and trying that now thanks.

Purchased an LE on pre order, cancelled it after seeing the initial videos of early play and code along with the sound package at that time. Fast forward now a year later ( 2 weeks ago ) had the chance to pick up a HUO LE in pristine condition and all I can say is WOW I'm so glad I did so. It would have been great to still been in it from day one, but on the other hand I did get to miss a lot of the growing pains with it but I know you guys who held on are really enjoying reaping the rewards from doing so now. What an amazing pin, I didn't load the custom sound pack as of yet but I need to do so.

So my TWD LE didn't have the plexi glass protector on the entrance of bicycle girl ramp, and after a few calls to Sterns in attempt to purchase one with no avail I decided to make one of my own and in addition dress it up a bit like when she was crawling thru the field. It's cut from 1/8 plexi backed with Gorilla Tape to hopefully alleviate the issues of them cracking from the ball smashing into them. Thus far it's still good so I should be adding lights to it shortly, and believe it or not there is no view obstruction of the ramp or BG head beneath the ramp.

P1010029_(resized).JPG

I love my BSD, but you have to master the shots to really enjoy it.

Another nice mod I know it's been covered is changing those fluorescent light bulbs to the LED tube version. I bought a few of these they are nice and bright and was easy to do took 8 minutes and the price is right too, for my eyes I like the warm over the cool.

ebay.com link: itm

Just loosen the big nut and with a flat head turn the core a 1/4 of a turn

Not going to make them but real easy to do, the one thing I found out is that this girl from McFarlane figure sets was like $9.00 when I bought it now they are $60+ but if you happen to find one cheap I'll help you make it or send her to me and I'll make it for you.

You know I cannot actually say in theory why it helped, but just from a guess I would say that by rotating the core a 1/4 of a turn actually changed the direction the magnetic field pulses and grabbed the ball just enough to change in path of SDTM. So I can't say for sure but maybe the density of the core has more of a pull to one side or another for some reason it that makes any sense.

However it did work for me and maybe will for a few others as well. No hurt in trying if it don't work for some just screw it back in the 1/4 of a turn towards it's original starting point so no harm no foul.

I have a crossbow question:

Is the crossbow supposed to be lined up with the same targets as shown in the animations on the DMD? I find my crossbow to be lagging behind where is pointing on the DMD during it's animation sequence. Anybody ever notice this?

Either direction, I feel the magnet against the PF and if it's on the high side I go lower and likewise for the opposite. Don't need to turn it much just enough to change the path. Then be sure the hold the flathead screw driver on the core shaft when tighten the nut again so it don't move from it's new set position.

True enough, I just observe all the stupid little shit while others are playing on it

Here is a place that has them:

ebay.com link: The Walking Dead Stern Pinball Machine Prison Tower TWD Walker Zombie

Awesome, did you happen to find a LE that you were looking for or did you get a Prem?

Pinball life sells the Red plastic protectors set for the Pro, but you can use them on the LE /Prem models. You just need to put a 1/8 spacer under the left outlane plastic on the screw closest to the flipper. So the crossbow can pass through it without getting hung up.

P1010036_(resized).JPG

Oh and the lighted Woodbury and hitchhikers signs are great too.

Was just going to post the same thing, I find it exactly as you do.

Agree 1000%, and it is a awesome game that will be missed immediately. I'm glad to see Stern make a machine that has a bit more challenging shots with a great deep rule set where we as players have to setup our shots, nudge a little and think rather then just hitting off the flippers on a fast flow. For me this game brings back the likes of TSPP and LOTR but with a twist. We are now at v1.56 but just think of how much better it might be as the code matures, although it's awesome right now. I'm really glad I was given the chance to grab an LE, and would do it all over again if I had too.

Oh hell yes!!!

Did you check the positions of your weights?

I have mine on max and here are some of the shakers interactions:

Prison Multi Ball
Well Walker Multi Ball
Walker Kills
Well Walker Hits
Bit
Blood Bath Mode
Bicycle Girl Hits
Arena Mode
Barn Mode
Riot Mode
CDC Mode
Multi Kills
Jackpot Hits
Skill Shot
In the Pop Bumpers on certain modes

and much more just can't recall....

I had to do the same with my TWD LE including adding some felt to the glass under lock bar for it was rattling the shit out of it. I guess the same way that not all tables play the same maybe not all shakers rumble the same.

There is a link here to v1.56 with all the show callouts as well.

Someone is going to be a happy killing boy

What number is it, it looks close to mine in the 400's

nice, #464 here

Where did you order that from?

It flashes red with the flashers from the pop bumpers and flashes white with the white flasher in the barn I believe.

Did you crimp into the wire that comes down from the barn? Then of course the other crimp is the flasher under the pops.

That EL wire mod is nice, I just checked Pinball Refinery but I only find additional color wires not the whole kit.

and you checked to make sure black was to black? I thought I read somewhere that some of these towers may have had a few leave with the wires reversed in some of the plugs.

My mistake, the tower white flasher should light with the barns red flasher. Still the Z connector should take care of that.

I too have had this done on my machine rather then the sling rubber, I would say it does reduce 85-90% of the drains from the pops and does not impact at all on my tunnel shots, just my bad aiming does.

Did you also put the post sleeve back on, I did and tightened it down and hold them in place nicely.

P1010039_(resized).JPG

^^ That's on my short to do list.

I was just going to post on this. I just installed mine and removed the Stern felt strip because I was getting a lot of airballs from the flap not meeting the playfield due to the foam. Now with Cliffy installed I seem to be getting a lot of denied ramp shots, maybe because of the slop in the ramp itself rocking side to side. I wish Stern drilled these properly as the hole on the left seems so much wider then the hole on the right where the axle goes through.

Awesome, does it matter which side to put the rubber on? It seems on my machine looking at the ramp the right side is tighter and the left side has a lot of play, which would mean removing ramps to get to that axle.

If any of you guys put a ColorDMD /Sigma display in, Scan Mode looks incredible.

see video below

Iceman44

Here is a short Youtube video of my son playing TWD with the ColorDMD set to red showing some of the animations. Please take note that I needed an adapter kit to finish off the install which of course I didn't know so I don't have it yet but it's on the way from Randy, the screen is just resting behind the speaker panel and does not have the clear shield in front of it and it's a little crooked. In addition if you see the reds going bright and back to red again, that's the camera adjusting the light metering from all the flashes going off, not the display.

Oh and it set to 5 balls (go ahead flame away), yeah we suck as the scores will show but need to learn the machine and ball time will help us.

As you I think red suits it best so that's how I'm going to leave it set, however just think of the colors when the ROM drops from ColorDMD. That's going to be awesome.

Out of all the modes I do think scan looks the best even over the dots and hi rez believe it or not, scan has just the right amount of shading in it to give it some nice depth.

Not that I have knowledge of but hey I would volunteer my time to doing it if he would let me. However it would be a matter of time before they do anyway, I mean come on they did Popeye

I'm not sure they actually need the game at all. The code is all opened with software with something like Pinball browser for example and it can then be colored from there and saved to a colordmd.rom to be distributed. Yes I agree it does take time and people with a certain skill set to accomplish this and hopefully they will be more receptive to those who possibly have the skills and time to do so.

yes you can always go lower amperage but it may blow quicker then usual, but never go over the suggested amperage.

The Tower if you can locate one ($100), the red plastic protectors on the slings and outlanes ($25.00), lighted woodbury and hitchhikers signs (approx. $35.00 each).

Oh and PinGraffix pin blades to dress up those black sides.

It's stainless steel so that would be pretty hard to do considering that ramp only rests on top of it and doesn't ever really slam into all that hard, unlike a scoop protector see's and they really don't dimple either.

Are you sure the crossbow light isn't lit when this happens? You load the bow from the right ramp.

Actually a better question is, does the crossbow animation and sequence start when the bow moves out to shoot? If so then the light was on, if not and the bow just shoots at position one then it wasn't ready to be loaded.

What I did but it was the prison for me, was loosen the nut underneath and 1/4 turn the magnet core and then tightened it again. Remember you don't want the magnet to high or low from the playfield so go in the direction that is best for the setting it is at now.

I'm no stern fan boy by any means but after getting a TWD LE, I actually forgot I had other pins sitting here in my basement. I still don't think any of them have been turned on since TWD arrival.

Awesome score but it looks like you need to tone down the backglass light a little bit, seeing a lot of reflection off the glass.

Yep those are necessary with the DMDs for sure, with the colorDMD you don't need one at all.

Yep, Ditto.....

Congrats and ty for your service.

upgrading to a Prem or LE?

Welcome to the world of bombs

Thus far I had zero issues with it, I also installed the cliffy drop ramp protector and removed the stern foam fix which makes the ramp sit flush now so air balls just about never happen there now.

Both of these mods are a must on Prem & LE models.

One thing I had found is that the Stern fix for that ramp cause the ball to go to the air many times on shooting the ramp. So to fix this I ordered the Cliffy protector, removed the Stern felt strip and both meet pretty flush now and hardly ever get any airballs. In addition you might want to put that rubber ring on one side of the shaft that the ramp pivots on, this will hold the ramp steadier as well and should have very very few denied shots now.

can you post the link please.

Dam,

His first ball alone beat my grand champion score lol.

Anyone else notice their Cliffy BG ramp protector getting dimples in it from the screws? To be fair I did remove the Stern fix to seat the ramp flush with the PF.

Yep been doing that. Interesting thing I found is that I also had mylar under the cliffy to protect the PF and that was now wrinkled to shit. No wood damage thank God, but in the process of Goo gone to remove the glue and a fresh set of wax, but do I dare put another piece of mylar back?

This frigging BG ramp is frustrating me to no end, my shots are now getting denied more times in the past 3 games then I have been denied asking my wife for sex in the past 26 years of marriage.

I'm sure it all has to do with the metal flap on the ramp with such a steep angle that causing the rejection, but come on Stern really. You guys couldn't have made the flap wider then the current 3/4" to give the ball a better surface approach.

Now if I make a new flap the cliffy is useless, if it stays this way the game is very frustrating. Piss poor design, they should produce a new drop ramp with a bigger flap to address this and it will address all the airballs as well. I can see this LE going up for sale very soon....

okay rant over

It was fine until I took off the protector cleaned and waxed under it, changed the mylar underneath which was wrinkled to no end and put a fresh piece and then reinstalled the cliffy. Like yourself I took off the Stern weather strip fix and it does sit pretty flush. I think it's the bend in the very short flap.

P1010001_(resized).JPG

Sterns fix was a piece of foam "weather strip" style stuck on the bottom of the flap and riviets. It raised the ramp a bit higher then usual and caused many balls to go air bound.

I have in Red and installed them on my LE. Now because of the crossbow arm you'll need to put a small washer/spacer under the left outlane plastic raising it a hair so the crossbow arm now swings through it free and clear from any obstructions.

f8b933ec5870d2c45fa2782f573e99bbec693335_(resized).jpg

You are correct, my mistake. This is what happens when you logon before coffee and without glasses LOL. Well the Pinball life lower plastic set works and looks good, can't comment on the Pinbits set. Sorry.

Yep, Woodbury shot with the bow has been the thorn in my side.

Wasn't KPG it was me I forgive ya!!! Looks awesome. I have since added a green led light to highlight her and it looks great.

No worries was just having a little fun, glad you liked the idea. Okay what I did was order this select "Pico" super tiny LED in green (or whatever color you wish), selected the voltage of 7-19v AC or DC from the following site. You can also use Nano if you wish, Pico is real tiny.

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/smd-chip-leds.html

I then dremeled a tiny hole just on the inside of her left forearm so the light is totally hidden from view, ran the wires across underneath, used a piece of Gorilla tape or duct tape to hold the wired to the plastic and protect them, then just dropped it under the PF and connect then to which ever you choose, insert GI etc... even a flasher if you wish.

I will make a video if you wish to see it, just need a few days before I can do so. Work is getting in my way of having fun.

Hell Yes........Awesome. The white will still be red with the gel plexi or you can order a clear one and set it to any color you like. Scan mode is awesome I posted a video of it quite some posts back in the thread.

There is a mounting kit you'll need to order as well for the newer stern panels and that comes with the clear shield.

This game has a horde mode? Man my playing must suck.....

Those are the outlanes you can buy wider star posts and put those in, in addition there is a fellow on here who sell the lane extenders which help a bit.

His name is: yoyokopter ,shoot him a pm to order them.

The first thing I do on all my stern machines is disable that annoying digital knocker.

It did for me.

Actually let me clarify this, I rotate the magnet core and protector itself not just the magnetic coil. I moved it a 1/4 of a turn in a direction that I felt was safe judging if it might have been a bit too low or too high before starting. It tosses my balls (hehe) in all directions now and made a huge difference. I'd say since the adjustments maybe three balls went SDTM. In addition I also leveled my machine with a 2' tilt to the right that if any were coming right back it might just catch the right flipper. Finally make sure the rear to front pitch isn't too great, this will also effect the pulse of the magnet more or less taking the pulse away and just making a straight drop.

These are things I found that worked on my machine but everyone's machine, house floor are different. So just invest a little time into some of these things to see what works for you and you'll love this machine and keep coming back for more punishment.

Now to find this horde that everyone is speaking about..............

For you Prem and LE guys who are tired of all the white inserts, these work great.

http://cointaker.com/products/stern-spike-led

Yes, it's to my understanding if I heard correctly that Gnassel has picked up his design and ran with it now.

Just the Tomica Winnebago from 1975/1976 in decent used shape is selling for this price alone on ebay without any modifications done to it. Their are cheaper ones on there but they have heavy wear issues.

I'm in the process of opening up mine and adding headlights which will work with the GI's and a internal red flasher that will fire with the pop bumpers.

It looks as if the right side hex post of the ramp needs to be grinded down a bit to bring it flush with the drop ramp. This will stop most of the airballs and denied shots.

Yes, 1000%

If there are no major updates coming down the road that changes the animations all that much, ColorDMD really needs to get cranking on this title if they aren't already in the process..

I think it was sarcasm, it's more like cow tipping needed to knock these over when setup.

Glad that you listen to those of us who have experience with both models. Both are great machines and you should always buy within your budget, however if the Prem model was still in your budget it was well worth the difference on this title.

Try this link for the prison Tower:

http://cointaker.com/products/walking-dead-prison-tower

I have a few different versions of the more popular ones folks are running, and I just ended up going back stock for in the meantime. For the people in my house and who come over and play just found it easier with the stock call outs and directions on what to shoot for versus a random voice call out from the show, but once you master the flow and rules a few of those packages are great.

I believe in the browser under sounds if you sort it by duration it is "Script 0x15 (0min00s108ms)". You would need a real fast sound to replace it with.

BTW same location for those with MetLE / Prem as well.

I don't believe so, you can always put a shorter length sample in and have some dead space at the end but a longer sample will get cut short. That's if it follows the same theory as when replacing songs.

Were you surprised , great game you are going to love it more when the colorDMD drops.

Other then me harassing them on every colorDMD hint photo with TWD guesses and tell them I'm about to throw the towel in and give up on seeing it in color when it wasn't, I was told by the big man himself to be patient and not to give up so quickly. So I would say for sure it's in the pipeline for a 2017 release.

By any chance does anyone know if the current code is final or are we do for 1 more tweak and adjustment update? Not sure if I recall 100% but thought there was something mentioned about another TWD update to follow but that was 1.5 years ago now.

Lyman seems like a perfectionist so at some point I believe he will come back and address those loose ends that need minor tweaking, as far as it goes for that horde light bug on my machine I would have never have known for I never even got there as of yet lol. (pathetic right)

Maybe I should take the glass off

Just have a custom Translite printed, and maybe add a few custom whistle callouts with pinball browser and your all set.

Do the attempt to reset and fall back down or just no movement at all?

There are several little adjustments that you can do that will alleviate this issues 95% of the times. They were posted here in this thread.

I know I had found when I rotate my core about 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn and that did the trick for sure. You can also have the machine pitch slightly towards the right flipper and that would help with that SDTM and also coming down from the pops where many were getting SDTM. Try some of those simple adjustments it did wonders for my machine but every machine is like a women they each have their own attitudes .

Then try just the magnet option, you never know until you try. Remember small movement it don't need to be drastic and you want to remain flush with the PF.

Awesome, I might be buying a machine down there too so now I have someone who can deliver it

Home Depot, Auto supply store, Lowes. Just make sure it's a slow blow fuse.

Finally got to Horde tonight, the next time I do I'll be sure to watch the playfield this time

Looks like colordmd rom is on it's way boys and girls..........

I'm pretty sure even if it does get an update or two down the road for tweaking code and such, it's shouldn't affect the colorDMD unless animation changes are made although I could be wrong.

One of if not the best colordmd to date, that video preview is off the hook.

Yes, just download the color rom file for it

1j9d2y (resized).jpg

Yes, the Sterns needed spacer for their slant speaker panel does sit the ColorDMD back a bit further then normal mounted ColorDMDs. As far as it goes from the side seeing inside a bit, a little black felt or weather stripping around the dmd will darken out any backbox lighting that you may see from the sides.

Doesn't the more expensive kit come with the clear insert shield needed for the Colordmd? As I recall the insert shield on the TWD was red.

Can someone please tell me the Fish Tank Head flasher order for the lamps. Is Head one on the left or right, two in the middle, three is etc...

Thanks