(Topic ID: 106132)

TWD Club, only walkers not welcome !!!

By pinball_erie

9 years ago


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#4551 6 years ago

So my DMD went blank all of a sudden and I can not figure out what fuse if any I should check might be blown. I do not have another DMD to test with. Any suggestions would be great as this is driving me crazytrying to figure this out. Everything works as it it should oitherwise just a blank DMD screen.

#4552 6 years ago
Quoted from gentrsa:

So my DMD went blank all of a sudden and I can not figure out what fuse if any I should check might be blown. I do not have another DMD to test with. Any suggestions would be great as this is driving me crazytrying to figure this out. Everything works as it it should oitherwise just a blank DMD screen.

First thing is reseat everything related. Is it a color DMD? Power cable issue? Shaker could theorically could shake it loose.

So could banging the glass repeatedly when it kicks your ass (not that I've ever done that though....)

#4553 6 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

First thing is reseat everything related. Is it a color DMD? Power cable issue? Shaker could theorically could shake it loose.
So could banging the glass repeatedly when it kicks your ass (not that I've ever done that though....)

I will do that, it is not a color dmd and I just put in a shaker motor so that may have done it.

#4554 6 years ago

I'm back. Completing my Super modded stunning LE to moderately modded pro collection conversion. I made cards. I'll make them available to download soon for those interested.

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#4555 6 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

I'm back. Completing my Super modded stunning LE to moderately modded pro collection conversion. I made cards. I'll make them available to download soon for those interested.

What made you switch to the Pro ?

10
#4557 6 years ago

I just called and ordered one from Cointaker. They are delivering it this afternoon. Now that's service!

So I'm officially in the club.

#4558 6 years ago

I designed this and had my brother 3D print it for me. Works great and don't have to nudge it everytime out of the pops while not blocking the ramp shot any with a fat post rubber. Can still hit the Tunnel shot just fine.

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#4559 6 years ago

Looks like a solid option but I have to keep mine stock. I need all the help I can get with the tunnel shot. How is the feed out of there? Feel like it would throw the ball into the sling or left outlane? That was my biggest gripe with the fat post.

#4560 6 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

I designed this and had my brother 3D print it for me. Works great and don't have to nudge it everytime out of the pops while not blocking the ramp shot any with a fat post rubber. Can still hit the Tunnel shot just fine.

Looks awesome, will you be selling these?

#4561 6 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Looks like a solid option but I have to keep mine stock. I need all the help I can get with the tunnel shot. How is the feed out of there? Feel like it would throw the ball into the sling or left outlane? That was my biggest gripe with the fat post.

Occasionally goes into the sling but when it does it kicks to the right flipper. Never goes out the outlane. It really doesn't block the tunnel shot, if you were to shoot where the guide is it would just be going into the upper right pop bumper. All in all better than having to nudge it every time I shoot barn or riot or plunge. Otherwise 50% of the balls goes SDTM.

#4562 6 years ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Looks awesome, will you be selling these?

I can and have had a few people ask about them. I will have to do a little figuring before I do. I will post here if I get to that point.

#4563 6 years ago

I wonder if anyone has tried an Avatar type pop bumper spring on a TWD ?

#4564 6 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

I can and have had a few people ask about them. I will have to do a little figuring before I do. I will post here if I get to that point.

I would also take one

#4565 6 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Occasionally goes into the sling but when it does it kicks to the right flipper. Never goes out the outlane. It really doesn't block the tunnel shot, if you were to shoot where the guide is it would just be going into the upper right pop bumper. All in all better than having to nudge it every time I shoot barn or riot or plunge. Otherwise 50% of the balls goes SDTM.

50% of the balls go SDTM from the pops on your machine?? If thats true then there is something wrong with your machine because I guarantee that my game doesn't even send 20% os the balls from the pops SDTM, and probably not even 10%. I actually don't mind having to give the game a little nudge coming out of the pops occasionally and consider it strategic and part of the fun of TWD knowing when to give it a little nudge coming out of the pops. I wont alter my games from the way they come out of the factory because if I ever blow the game up, I want to be able to brag about it and know that the score was legitimately earned.

#4566 6 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Occasionally goes into the sling but when it does it kicks to the right flipper. Never goes out the outlane. It really doesn't block the tunnel shot, if you were to shoot where the guide is it would just be going into the upper right pop bumper. All in all better than having to nudge it every time I shoot barn or riot or plunge. Otherwise 50% of the balls goes SDTM.

This is pretty common on the game, tons of posts on it, mine was the same way. You can fix it by putting a slightly fatter post sleeve where the ball exits on the lower right. That gives the ball just enough deflection to avoid sdtm. Others have gone as far as putting sling rubber along the right side. It's an easy fix.

#4567 6 years ago

Must've got lucky, less than 5% centre drains out of the pops on my machine. Newer build, Sept 2016.

#4568 6 years ago

I just got my TWD and after a day of use the crossbow stopped working. When the crossbow was fully extended it made a clicking noise and stopped. I called up Stern and they said it was the motor. I just replaced and the crossbow doesn't move at all. Switch 50 and 51 register in service mode so its not that. The firing solenoid works fine as well. They said this machine doesn't have a motor controller board. So my question is what tells the motor to turn on? Is it possible a fuse could of blown? Stern is closed today so any help would be much appreciated. .

#4569 6 years ago

Yes, fuse is likely blown. One protects the motor in the backbox, can't recall which one it is, I believe it's 3 amps. Surprised stern didn't tell you to check this first. It's not likely the motor.

Quoted from bent98:

I just got my TWD and after a day of use the crossbow stopped working. When the crossbow was fully extended it made a clicking noise and stopped. I called up Stern and they said it was the motor. I just replaced and the crossbow doesn't move at all. Switch 50 and 51 register in service mode so its not that. The firing solenoid works fine as well. They said this machine doesn't have a motor controller board. So my question is what tells the motor to turn on? Is it possible a fuse could of blown? Stern is closed today so any help would be much appreciated. .

#4570 6 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

Must've got lucky, less than 5% centre drains out of the pops on my machine. Newer build, Sept 2016.

IMO and IME, most TWDs don't have significant pop drain problems when care is taken in the set up and leveling. Even a slight change in left to right level can make the difference. No issues as such on an early run LE model here, and you don't hear much talk about it any more. The various post mods do help in the set-it and forget-it method.

Most of my stdms are from typical pinball play, such as not taking more care with the dangerous prison shot or ramp rollbacks.

#4571 6 years ago
Quoted from Who-Dey:

50% of the balls go SDTM from the pops on your machine?? If thats true then there is something wrong with your machine because I guarantee that my game doesn't even send 20% os the balls from the pops SDTM, and probably not even 10%. I actually don't mind having to give the game a little nudge coming out of the pops occasionally and consider it strategic and part of the fun of TWD knowing when to give it a little nudge coming out of the pops. I wont alter my games from the way they come out of the factory because if I ever blow the game up, I want to be able to brag about it and know that the score was legitimately earned.

I never came here saying everybody should do this. It makes the game more fun for me so I thought I would share. I have my games set up steeper than usual b/c I like them to play fast and the increased angle probably has something to do with it. All games play differently. I am ok with it, I am not saying you have to like my mod.

#4572 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

This is pretty common on the game, tons of posts on it, mine was the same way. You can fix it by putting a slightly fatter post sleeve where the ball exits on the lower right. That gives the ball just enough deflection to avoid sdtm. Others have gone as far as putting sling rubber along the right side. It's an easy fix.

I agree, it was just something fun and works well. It actually deflects the ball a little less than a fat rubber as it is a smooth transition. With the fat post rubber it would deflect further to the left. Just thought I would share what I did. I really didn't expect people to want me to make them one, just sharing.

#4573 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Yes, fuse is likely blown. One protects the motor in the backbox, can't recall which one it is, I believe it's 3 amps. Surprised stern didn't tell you to check this first. It's not likely the motor.

I pulled off backbox and looked at the main board and all the 13 fuses have a red led lite so I assume all fuses are good. I need to find my meter to check continuity. What else could it be?

#4574 6 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

I pulled off backbox and looked at the main board and all the 13 fuses have a red led lite so I assume all fuses are good. I need to find my meter to check continuity. What else could it be?

Did you check the connector underneath? Do you have power to the connector?

#4575 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Did you check the connector underneath? Do you have power to the connector?

How much power is supposed to be running to motor?

#4576 6 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Did you check the connector underneath? Do you have power to the connector?

After further analysis, I am not getting 20VAC across the brown and brown blue wires of the relay assembly 511-619-00, instead I am getting 3.96v. Therefore I suspect the relay is not getting energize to turn motor on to activate the crossbow. How can I test the 20v source is working properly? Everything else in the game is working.

I checked all the fuses for continuity on the main board and found no issues. The main board has all Voltage leds lite up for all voltages levels. One other thing to note, There is a capacitor and a light bulb on the motor side connector. The light bulb looks like the filaments aren't touching. I am not sure wath purpose of this bulb this serves or if that's normal? Could that be an issue? I assume not as the relay is not getting voltage therefore the motor is not as well. I've attached a pic of the motor connector that has that light bulb solider on it.

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#4577 6 years ago
Quoted from WJxxxx:

Was playing a game last night:
Had Arena running then started Horde. Arena finished on 186mil, while Horde was still running.
One of the Walkers then reached me. I expected the flippers to die, it award me my Horde score then allow me to continue with a ball in the shooter lane.
Instead the machine reset and ended my game. It didn't allow me to enter my initials for high score on Arena.
Is this a bug anyone else has had, or is it a fault with my machine? I've never had anything similar happen before.

There is a Horde reset bug

Amazingly I saw it on two different machines within 18 hours but never before or since

#4578 6 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

After further analysis, I am not getting 20VAC across the brown and brown blue wires of the relay assembly 511-619-00, instead I am getting 3.96v. Therefore I suspect the relay is not getting energize to turn motor on to activate the crossbow. How can I test the 20v source is working properly? Everything else in the game is working.
I checked all the fuses for continuity on the main board and found no issues. The main board has all Voltage leds lite up for all voltages levels. One other thing to note, There is a capacitor and a light bulb on the motor side connector. The light bulb looks like the filaments aren't touching. I am not sure wath purpose of this bulb this serves or if that's normal? Could that be an issue? I assume not as the relay is not getting voltage therefore the motor is not as well. I've attached a pic of the motor connector that has that light bulb solider on it.

I can't say I am exactly sure what's going on but here is what I would check:

1. Is coin door closed when you are testing the motor and checking voltages? If not, power is cut. Not sure how you are testing the motor, but go into settings, coil test, choose 21, push start button. Nothing?
2. Do you get continuity from the board connector for the motor to the connectors at the motor?
3. It's possible the transistor on the board has blown, check that with a meter. Meter on diode check, one probe on tab of transistor, other probe on game ground. If you get no resistance or a buzz, it's blown.
4. To be honest, I don't know what that glass tube dies, the blue varistor I think helps regulate power, but I'm not entirely sure.
5. Pull connector at the board, measure voltage coming off the pin controlling the motor.
6. If motor works in test mode, but not game mode, I'd suspect the home switch.

I believe voltage to the motor should be 30v.

#4579 6 years ago

1. Is coin door closed when you are testing the motor and checking voltages? If not, power is cut. Not sure how you are testing the motor, but go into settings, coil test, choose 21, push start button. Nothing?

Coin door is open but you can pull out the white switch that actuates when the coin door is closed to enable high voltage mode and still keep the door open. 20v/50V. So no issues there.

2. Do you get continuity from the board connector for the motor to the connectors at the motor?

When you said board connector you mean the 2 prong connector in which the motor connector plugs into?

3. It's possible the transistor on the board has blown, check that with a meter. Meter on diode check, one probe on tab of transistor, other probe on game ground. If you get no resistance or a buzz, it's blown.

What transistor are you referring to? I am not sure of the location

4. To be honest, I don't know what that glass tube dies, the blue varistor I think helps regulate power, but I'm not entirely sure.

n/a

5. Pull connector at the board, measure voltage coming off the pin controlling the motor.

Which connector is that?

6. If motor works in test mode, but not game mode, I'd suspect the home switch.

It doesn't work in with. The motor is acutally pulling 16V according to Page Y30 in the Manual. Its not the switch.

#4580 6 years ago

You need to check the manual, look at the coil chart, it's in the table. It's on stern's website. For connector, I mean the one in the backbox.

#4581 6 years ago

Ok looks like J7 Port 7 is the what I would measure for 20vDC to see if board is telling it to turn on the motor. Where do I put the ground lead? There is not ground on J7 block? It also looks like J7P1 is the 20VDC constant so J7P7 is the trigger? Also whats J7P5 Key?

I attached the three pages in the manual needed to answer my question. I assume if this measure the 20VDC then we know the board is good but then it would mean the relay is bad?

motor.pdfmotor.pdf

#4582 6 years ago

Two notes after about 15 games on my NIB pro with a Feb 17 build date.

1) I can firmly conclude that pro models are easier than Prem/LE as the no bg bashing and no well magnet decrease danger spots in a meaningful way. This is not only from owning both but also from a couple years of playing a ton of different examples of each.

2) I have not had a single pop bumper based SDTM drain yet on this new build. No idea why. It's in the same geo physical spot as my LE with the same pitch, etc; the LE would drain SDTM maybe 5-10%, enough to be frustrating and cause tilt warnings.

I miss the light show and barn spinner and cabinet art the most. I always loved the "immortality" of not having any actors on the LE. Can't go wrong with either, I'm just glad to have one of them, esp one that isn't nearly as mean as I know it could be.

#4583 6 years ago
Quoted from bent98:

Ok looks like J7 Port 7 is the what I would measure for 20vDC to see if board is telling it to turn on the motor. Where do I put the ground lead? There is not ground on J7 block? It also looks like J7P1 is the 20VDC constant so J7P7 is the trigger? Also whats J7P5 Key?
I attached the three pages in the manual needed to answer my question. I assume if this measure the 20VDC then we know the board is good but then it would mean the relay is bad?

Use the ground braid anywhere in the game.

#4584 6 years ago
Quoted from ATLpb:

Two notes after about 15 games on my NIB pro with a Feb 17 build date.
1) I can firmly conclude that pro models are easier than Prem/LE as the no bg bashing and no well magnet decrease danger spots in a meaningful way. This is not only from owning both but also from a couple years of playing a ton of different examples of each.
2) I have not had a single pop bumper based SDTM drain yet on this new build. No idea why. It's in the same geo physical spot as my LE with the same pitch, etc; the LE would drain SDTM maybe 5-10%, enough to be frustrating and cause tilt warnings.
I miss the light show and barn spinner and cabinet art the most. I always loved the "immortality" of not having any actors on the LE. Can't go wrong with either, I'm just glad to have one of them, esp one that isn't nearly as mean as I know it could be.

I wonder if they changed the thickness of the post sleeve at the bottom right to prevent sdtm from pops.

#4585 6 years ago

Can anyone tell me if my Pro model has a metal speaker panel? I'm going to purchase a ColorDMD, but I'm not sure if I need the standoff/shield kit.

#4587 6 years ago

Ok, so J7 P1 and P7 are a constant 22vDC. I then measured voltage from the connector side of the four pin relay. I also get 22VDC if I unplug the connector and measure it on the female side (closest to the machine). If I measure on the relay side I get 0V.

So the relay in not energizing, so it most likely is bad. Here is where it gets interesting . If I jump the black/org and white pins on the female connector of the relay to simulate the relay energizing the motor, the motor turns. The only thing is the motor moves very weak. Now the thing is, I replaced the motor so I am not sure if the motor replacement I got from Stern was bad or what. I cant put back the old one back as I cut the leads off it very short.

The other possibility is that the relay is not bad and instead the relay is not getting enough current to energize. The fact that the crossbow motor was turning weak could mean a power issue. Again its getting the correct voltage but maybe not enough current? I dont have a 24v powersupply to try and energize the relay to test to see if it works.

#4588 6 years ago

Hi guys. I just installed the bicycle girl light mod from Gnassel on my Premium yesterday. What a great mod this is! I highly recommend it. I think this should have been included from Stern. Now I can clearly see BG's face and the artwork in front of her while the ramp is up and the white LED is on. I love how the red LED turns on briefly when the ball strikes her. Very cool effect! My only concern was the alligator clip connections with the shaking from the shaker motor. I cut off the clips after I verified that the mod worked correctly and I liked it.

Now let me just tell you how impressed I am with Gnassel. I contacted him via PM and he responded the next day (he's in Germany). He asked for my address so he could send the mod to me. He said to pay him AFTER I've installed the mod and I'm happy. That really surprised me. What a fantastic pinsider!
Great mod!
Great guy!

Thanks Gnassel

I can post pics if anyone is interested

Junky

#4589 6 years ago

I got my ColorDMD and Flipper Fidelity speaker kit installed yesterday. What a difference!

They did a kick ass job on the color and the speakers sound great!

#4590 6 years ago

Joined the club a week ago with a premium and can't stop playing. Even though I bought new from distributor, the unit shipped had been sitting in a warehouse somewhere with an Aug 2016 build date with a 1/8" layer of dust on top. I only throw this date out there so anyone can warn me if there are issues with certain build dates that I should be aware of, otherwise I don't care.

Been too busy playing to do any mods yet, but I can tell you that the game is kicking my ass and is tougher than any table I've played in a LOOOONG time (even my buddies IMVE). I consider myself a decent player and want to see how it plays from the factory (I set it at 6.5deg), but I can tell you that the outlanes have tractor beams on them for sure and the STDM middle drains from the prison magnet are happening probably 60-70% of the time and no amount of flipper-slapping/nudging has been able to save it most of the time. Occasionally, the magnet will do a flip to the ball and give me a chance, but more often times than not it just hurls it down the middle. Just seems super unfair.

My questions are... 1) Any adjustments to the prison magnet to help? 2) Am I complete failure if I do something about the outlanes? and 3) what must-have mods do people suggest that I should do immediately. I did already order ColorDMD, but that's it so far.

#4591 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Joined the club a week ago with a premium and can't stop playing. Even though I bought new from distributor, the unit shipped had been sitting in a warehouse somewhere with an Aug 2016 build date with a 1/8" layer of dust on top. I only throw this date out there so anyone can warn me if there are issues with certain build dates that I should be aware of, otherwise I don't care.
Been too busy playing to do any mods yet, but I can tell you that the game is kicking my ass and is tougher than any table I've played in a LOOOONG time (even my buddies IMVE). I consider myself a decent player and want to see how it plays from the factory (I set it at 6.5deg), but I can tell you that the outlanes have tractor beams on them for sure and the STDM middle drains from the prison magnet are happening probably 60-70% of the time and no amount of flipper-slapping/nudging has been able to save it most of the time. Occasionally, the magnet will do a flip to the ball and give me a chance, but more often times than not it just hurls it down the middle. Just seems super unfair.
My questions are... 1) Any adjustments to the prison magnet to help? 2) Am I complete failure if I do something about the outlanes? and 3) what must-have mods do people suggest that I should do immediately. I did already order ColorDMD, but that's it so far.

Congratulations on the new pin! Enjoy.

For prison magnet there was historical advice to hit the right or left flipper button a couple of times when Borg gets hit in the head with a crowbar in the animation when the ball is held. Many here have set up the pin to be 0.2-0.3 degrees or so to the left of right to minimize stdms from the pops and prison magnet. One can also re-clock the prison magnet 90 degrees to change the orientation of the magnetic field (not 180).

Many people have modded the outlanes, and many more have not. I'd wait a while before changing them since you've only had the game a week. But to each their own.

As for mods, you can type "mods" into the thread search feature (not the forum search) beside the topic gallery at the top of the page. That will show all the posts with mods discussed, and lots of them. I also have a few posts of detailing a bunch of mods that you can find by looking at my post history on this thread.

For must have mods, I'd suggest Gnassel BG light mod and shaker as a start, with color dmd and pdi glass as well.

#4592 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Joined the club a week ago with a premium and can't stop playing. Even though I bought new from distributor, the unit shipped had been sitting in a warehouse somewhere with an Aug 2016 build date with a 1/8" layer of dust on top. I only throw this date out there so anyone can warn me if there are issues with certain build dates that I should be aware of, otherwise I don't care.
Been too busy playing to do any mods yet, but I can tell you that the game is kicking my ass and is tougher than any table I've played in a LOOOONG time (even my buddies IMVE). I consider myself a decent player and want to see how it plays from the factory (I set it at 6.5deg), but I can tell you that the outlanes have tractor beams on them for sure and the STDM middle drains from the prison magnet are happening probably 60-70% of the time and no amount of flipper-slapping/nudging has been able to save it most of the time. Occasionally, the magnet will do a flip to the ball and give me a chance, but more often times than not it just hurls it down the middle. Just seems super unfair.
My questions are... 1) Any adjustments to the prison magnet to help? 2) Am I complete failure if I do something about the outlanes? and 3) what must-have mods do people suggest that I should do immediately. I did already order ColorDMD, but that's it so far.

Hit both buttons at same time after the prison magnet grabs the ball during the prison animation to cancel it and the magnet will lightly throw ball so it doesnt go SDTM.

#4593 6 years ago
Quoted from Phbooms:

Hit both buttons at same time after the prison magnet grabs the ball during the prison animation to cancel it and the magnet will lightly throw ball so it doesnt go SDTM.

Yeah, funny thing is I had already tried that many times because of my impatience. Learned that with my LOTR that if you want to time out a magnet capture, just hit both flipper buttons. You are right that it doesn't "fling" it STDM with as much speed, but it definitely drops it STDM. I'll try that a bit more, because at least it gives me a chance to do more of a slap save that way (not that I enjoy doing that every time for a feature that shouldn't need it). The rotation of the prison magnet by 90deg has piqued my curiosity, so I might have to try that.

As for the outlanes, I've owned pins for close to 15 years (only on pinside for 1 yr) and know how to nudge most balls out, but none of my usual techniques seem to work on this game. Oh well, I'm always up for learning new techniques.

#4594 6 years ago

Is there a way to lower the strength of the trough ball eject? My launches the ball like a bat out of hell. I've searched through the adjustments a couple of times and haven't seen the option. I'm hoping I'm just overlooking it.

#4595 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Yeah, funny thing is I had already tried that many times because of my impatience. Learned that with my LOTR that if you want to time out a magnet capture, just hit both flipper buttons. You are right that it doesn't "fling" it STDM with as much speed, but it definitely drops it STDM. I'll try that a bit more, because at least it gives me a chance to do more of a slap save that way (not that I enjoy doing that every time for a feature that shouldn't need it). The rotation of the prison magnet by 90deg has piqued my curiosity, so I might have to try that.
As for the outlanes, I've owned pins for close to 15 years (only on pinside for 1 yr) and know how to nudge most balls out, but none of my usual techniques seem to work on this game. Oh well, I'm always up for learning new techniques.

You definitely want to try to get the first 2 prison hits within the ball save time starting a game. If it goes SDTM you're still good.

-1
#4596 6 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Joined the club a week ago with a premium and can't stop playing. Even though I bought new from distributor, the unit shipped had been sitting in a warehouse somewhere with an Aug 2016 build date with a 1/8" layer of dust on top. I only throw this date out there so anyone can warn me if there are issues with certain build dates that I should be aware of, otherwise I don't care.

Keep an eye on the clearcoat in the shooter lane where the ball kicks out. Mine started coming off at around 40 games. I talked to my distributor and am getting their repair kit. I've also had everything documented in case it gets worse or happens somewhere else. I'm not going to throw a fit unless it effects the artwork somewhere.

Quoted from Pinzap:

My questions are... 1) Any adjustments to the prison magnet to help? 2) Am I complete failure if I do something about the outlanes? and 3) what must-have mods do people suggest that I should do immediately. I did already order ColorDMD, but that's it so far.

I tap the flippers a few times and it seems to help. As for the outlanes, that's completely up to you. I'm letting it kick my ass for right now, but I might tighten them up at some point. I've made it to Horde a few times, so I'm not giving up yet.

The Flipper Fidelity speaker kit is a great mod. I'd also recommend the sound upgrade package. It's much better than the generi-redneck they got to do the callouts.

#4597 6 years ago
Quoted from GhostThruster:

Is there a way to lower the strength of the trough ball eject? My launches the ball like a bat out of hell. I've searched through the adjustments a couple of times and haven't seen the option. I'm hoping I'm just overlooking it.

Coil pulse power is number 43 in the standard adjustments menu. Not sure if there is an adjustment just for the trough kicker.

#4598 6 years ago

New ColorDMD LCD installed today. WOW! It looks amazing!
Hopefully they release the software for ghostbusters soon

Junky

#4599 6 years ago

Followup from my earlier post. Thanks Spyderturbo007 for the tapping the flippers a few times comment. I had actually been either holding both flippers to release the magnet (which just mostly let it drop down the middle) or trying to nudge the machine as the magnet hurled it STDM (mostly unsuccessful). However, a combination of both of those seems to be the best for me now in my last few games. I hold both flippers to release the magnet, then, immediately as the ball is being released, I tap the right OR left flipper one or two times. I think the flipper tapping activates an off angle magnetic pulse that throws the ball off to the side rather than STDM.

Also... regarding my outlane problem. What is Lesson #1 for playing any NIB game? Well, I knew this, but forgot to go through the playfield and tighten and check screws and bolts. You guessed it. My left lane divider screw was about 5 mm short of being all the way in. This caused it to be really loose and evidently it chose to lean toward the inlane. This caused the outlane to be about 2-3 mm wider and the inlane to be 2-3mm narrower. DOH!!! Because of the plastic ramp lane above this post, I didn't even notice it was leaning a bit until I got into the playfield with the glass off. No help for the right outlane, but as it turns out, I can successfully nudge over there a bit more, where I was having problems on the left.

#4600 6 years ago
Quoted from imagamejunky:

Hi guys. I just installed the bicycle girl light mod from Gnassel on my Premium yesterday. What a great mod this is! I highly recommend it. I think this should have been included from Stern. Now I can clearly see BG's face and the artwork in front of her while the ramp is up and the white LED is on. I love how the red LED turns on briefly when the ball strikes her. Very cool effect! My only concern was the alligator clip connections with the shaking from the shaker motor. I cut off the clips after I verified that the mod worked correctly and I liked it.
Now let me just tell you how impressed I am with Gnassel. I contacted him via PM and he responded the next day (he's in Germany). He asked for my address so he could send the mod to me. He said to pay him AFTER I've installed the mod and I'm happy. That really surprised me. What a fantastic pinsider!
Great mod!
Great guy!
Thanks Gnassel
I can post pics if anyone is interested
Junky

Yeah he did that for me too. What a guy huh?

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Your shop name here
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