Check in with the op of this thread here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twd-hand-drawn-alternative-translite-wip

This is my personal favourite alternative back glass: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/drawing-some-backglasses-happy-trees

Got to horde this morning man that gets the blood PUMPING!!! RIP Lyman you’re the man.

Walking dead pinball on eBay has a full set , including that one.

Does anyone here with a premium or LE have the Mezel Mods illuminated drop targets? If so, where did you connect the alligator clips? A couple of pictures would be appreciated.

My picture shows what I have for factory insert lighting.

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They usually have instructions on their website, but my guess would be you attach them to a GI socket, not an insert like you show.

https://mezelmods.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/203464145-Illuminated-Supplies-Drop-Targets
but the The Walking Dead (LE) (and premium) has color changing inserts that are different than what are in the instructions, which is why EEE is asking for information from someone who knows.

Doesn’t look like they offer it anymore. Maybe there was an option for pro and prem/le? You can attach those clips to a gi socket, they will just be lit up most of the time. Either that or you can snip off the clips and solder to the insert light board.

I don’t think that’s optimum since the inserts for the drops are lit according to which one has been collected, which one you’re working on, etc. There would be no point to lighting the targets themselves if they didn’t provide the same information the game offers without them.

Are the color changing LED inserts the same voltage as the GI? For that matter, are they the same voltage as the single color inserts on the pro?

Same voltage. In their instructions, the connection is confusing. In one step they mention removing the bulbs and replacing with their supplied bulbs, which I think is a matrix-type connection, and then in the next step they talk about clip connections. Is this mod supposed to light up each drop target independently? If so, then you are right it makes no sense to just clip to one gi. Sounds like it was designed only for the pro, but maybe they had a prem/le version.

Maybe reach out and contact them, they have good support.

If we were standing at the game I could explain it quickly but it’s pretty confusing to type it out. There is a pretty good summary in the rules doc.
There is an insert for each of the three targets. Sometimes that insert is not lit, sometimes it’s solid, sometimes it’s flashing. All of them independent from one another.
White only on the pro, color changing on pre/LE.

I have a premium so I know how they work. Would seem weird to have the mod connected to all three of them given how they constantly move, are lit solid or are flashing. I’d just make the connection to the gi.

What are you guys doing over the weekend? I’m going to mod up my twd pro!

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Getting drunk and stoned, talking shit and playing pinball. Same as most every other day.

I saw that there are very similar ones on tilt graphics website...

https://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/walking-dead-pop-bumper-kit

***Sold*** a NLA drop target light mod.

I wanted to use this on our Premium machine, but seemingly the mezelmods illuminated drop target kit mod is only usable on a Pro machine, so I am selling the one that I have in my parts stash. You will need to procure three translucent targets that are available in a few places.

vid’s review: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/translucent-drop-targets-from-pinball-mods-vid-s-review

You’ll also want to replace the three 555-style LEDs in the respective inserts to match the ones used in the bulb bracket.

Here is a video of what the mod looks like when installed.

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I've never seen the wires soldered directly to the leads of a wedge bulb like that. Nice fast and easy solution for a mod.

I can’t see why that wouldn’t work on a premium. Did they mention why? There’s nothing really in that area that would differ

The Pro uses 555 sockets (easy to use alligator clips to deal with lamp diodes) while the Premium uses LED boards. From the feedback that I received on the topic apparently the difference in hardware makes it not achievable.

The only way it can work is to cut the clips off and solder directly to the light boards.

Well here's a head scratcher. I was noticing I was getting the phantom well walker hits I've read about. After screwing around with the glass off, ONLY the right ramp entry switch is causing the walker to trigger. To add further confusion to things, it only seems to happen when well walker multiball is about to start (one hit away) or when you are in well walker multiball. If you don't have any or all well walker letters, you can trigger the right ramp entry all day with no walker hits registering. Once well walker multiball is ready, hitting the right ramp entry will trigger a hit and start multiball, and same once you are in multiball - hitting the right ramp entry collects the jackpot if its ready. Once the multiball is over, it's back to normal.

I've swapped the Z connector, adjusted the switch to be less sensitive (although it doesnt register these extra hits all the time, so I'm not sure it needed any adjusting), and reseated the backbox connectors with no real change.

Any idea if there's something stupid I'm overlooking here? I'm at a bit of a loss on what to look at next since the walker hits aren't registering randomly or with regular vibration - it all seems dependent on the right ramp entry switch, but in specific circumstances.

Update: after playing a few games with the glass on, the right ramp entrance switch occasionally triggers a well hit, but not consistently, throughout the game…

I wonder if the lamp status is related, indicating a short somewhere between a lamp matrix wire and switch matrix wire.

Well Walker (sw 2) and R.Ramp entrance (sw 34) share the same return line. - J6-P8 White with Red tracer.

So I feel like I’m starting to zero in on this (sort of ha). If I throw the game into active switch test, it shows the well walker switch closed which I believe is correct. When I close the right ramp entry which is in the same column, the well walker switch shows as open and if I release the right ramp entry it closes again.

This happens consistently in test, but hitting the right ramp entry in a game doesn’t consistently register a hit.

Something is causing the right ramp to trigger the well walker…bad diode maybe?

start there

Looking for an LE. Have checked the Pinside ads already and going to keep shopping around so if you’re selling, please let me know.

What are you looking for that the Pinside ads aren't offering?

This article is pretty thorough regarding the switch matrix: https://homepinballrepair.com/pinball-switch-lamp-matrix-troubleshooting/
Are all the other switches in the column working? Others in both rows all working?

Yeah everything else seems to be working as normal. I’ll check again for wiring shorts but it looks pretty clean. The constant behavior in test but sporadic behavior in gameplay is what has me lost on this one.

One is out of my current price range and I don't really need the topper with young kids in the house

The other I just can't get a response from.

Read the listing that says Cleland code “ no kids here “. Mine has Cleland, love it. But, adults only. You can get a family friendly Cleland, it’s still way better than factory.It’s a wonderful game, had it 5 years and probably for keeps.

I too am looking for the Cleland code “ no kids here “.
Please point me toward the foul mouthed zombies!
Magicchiz

I am also looking for the LE powder coat code to do a coin door. Any body match it yet?
Jc

There are many key posts marked in this thread. One of them links to the sound mods thread. You will find key posts listed at the top of every page in this thread.

I recently picked up a TWD Pro and it has the burning barn mod. The lighting stays on all the time. Is there a way to make it interactive on the pro?

You might be getting me on track here. I combed through the switches and didn’t see anything obvious, threw the game back in test and the problem was gone. After a game or two it came back with the same symptoms, so I’m wondering if there was just a short I didn’t see and happened to accidentally correct when I was under the playfield that worked it’s way back. It seems like the most logical explanation at this point ha. Stay tuned…

does the code work with the color dmd?
JC

Yes, Color DMD works just fine with the cleland sound versions (or other sound modified TWD versions).

I choked with horde lit this morning was so annoyed! Damn this is the best game!

The Woodbury shot is one of the hardest shots in all of pinball for me when I notice that dome is pulsing red.

The connection for the barn, I believe, should be at the Barn insert (thus when insert is lit > barn is lit). It sounds like it's just attached to a GI bulb (my guess).

Did your Hitchhiker sign light up after installing? I put one in mine recently and can’t get it to light. Wondering if I’m hooked up right….. or have a bad led strip?

Go into tests and select flasher #26. Coin door switch closed and if it’s wired right you’ll see it

Yeah mine lights up. It flashes anytime the white led in the prison does. That’s the one you wire into under the playfield. Or you can take the prison roof off and wire directly to the white flasher led.

Grab the one with the topper and sell the topper, could off set the cost of the game a little for you which is a nice bonus.

Not a bad idea but there’s also some damage to the artwork I don’t want to deal with and the price is still a little high even with the topper based on prior sales, which isn’t guaranteed to sell right away.

As ChipScott said, connect it to the Burning Barn insert. This way, whenever that mode is enabled, the barn will light up. When you finish that mode, the barn stays lit as does the insert. I have this on my machine.

The barn has a 2 piece connector on it and is connected to a connector in the bottom of the cabinet. What would be the best way to connect it to the barn insert?

Alligator clip to the wires on that insert. Its been many, many years since I installed mine, so memory is a bit vague.

I have the Hooked on Pinball barn, not sure what you have or if there would be any differences for the connection?

At 5:30 in this video, he mades a brief mention of connecting to the insert for a pro:

Quick shout out to Melissa at Cointaker for offering a colored insert lighting option for Premium owners.

I was able to add some colors for the drop targets and I used their orange LED boards for the stab and Tower 2X playfield multiplier inserts.

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Insert LED colors for drop targets corrected. See post below, about 20 down from here.