Hi All,
I need to buy new pinballs. Whats good these days for machines with magnets like TWD?
Quoted from Rager170:Hi All,
I need to buy new pinballs. Whats good these days for machines with magnets like TWD?
In a pin with magnets you need to use standard carbon steel balls because they are resistant to becoming magnetized. That is the generic type they sell at pinball life or macro.
Quoted from Rager170:Hi All,
I need to buy new pinballs. Whats good these days for machines with magnets like TWD?
Titan pinball standard shiny balls. I’ve never seen on magnetize.
Quoted from Mattyk:Hi all. I’m looking to join the club if anyone wants out. I’m located in Western MA
Too bad we aren’t closer. I have a Pro for sale in Nevada.
-Ned
Quoted from chuckwurt:Titan pinball standard shiny balls. I’ve never seen on magnetize.
Good to know, thanks!
TWD prison door roof remix, the one on thingiverse didn't fit and was poorly designed so I started over.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5569115
Happy to print a mail at nominal cost if anyone doesn't have access to a printer. I will also be at expo and can deliver there. PM me if you have a need-
Anybody interested in selling/trading their premium/Lee pm me. I have a very nice Flight 2000 I can trade + cash.
Hi guys
Take a look at these prison doors. Someone replaced the screws on the right side and seems the nose of the zombie may be sticking out.
Any concerns here? Is it simply just getting the correct screws and I assume there is a way to adjust the head back a bit?
Quoted from Mattyk:Hi guys
Take a look at these prison doors. Someone replaced the screws on the right side and seems the nose of the zombie may be sticking out.
Any concerns here? Is it simply just getting the correct screws and I assume there is a way to adjust the head back a bit?
[quoted image]
Those small black screws were loose on my game when I got it, so I’m sure they fall out on a lot of games. Replacing those should’nt be a problem.
The head pivots and probably is just missing the stopper underneath? Worst case scenario the zombie head may be stripped in the back. It’s plastic that has wood screws holding it to a metal plate.
Besides those problems, the decals on the doors and the targets look like they have seen a lot of games and the plastic left of the doors is broken off.
Quoted from chubtoad13:Those small black screws were loose on my game when I got it, so I’m sure they fall out on a lot of games. Replacing those should’nt be a problem.
The head pivots and probably is just missing the stopper underneath? Worst case scenario the zombie head may be stripped in the back. It’s plastic that has wood screws holding it to a metal plate.
Besides those problems, the decals on the doors and the targets look like they have seen a lot of games and the plastic left of the doors is broken off. [quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for your response and pics. Good eye on the broken plastic. Hopefully a simple adjustment for the head.
Quoted from Mattyk:Hopefully a simple adjustment for the head.
Below the playfield. The screws holding him and that are hard to get at. May be loose or fallen out.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Below the playfield. The screws holding him and that are hard to get at. May be loose or fallen out.
LTG : )
Sweet thanks!
Quoted from LTG:https://mezelmods.com/products/walking-dead-crossbow if they still have it.
LTG : )
I decided to try and camo the crossbow. Still working on it but turning out better than expected.
Quoted from WildRover:For TWD prem/LE owners....is the bicycle girl ramp really that much more clunky than the pro?
No
Quoted from WildRover:For TWD prem/LE owners....is the bicycle girl ramp really that much more clunky than the pro?
More clunky yes. Much more clunky no
Quoted from WildRover:For TWD prem/LE owners....is the bicycle girl ramp really that much more clunky than the pro?
My example (LE) is butter smooth. Not clunky at all and it really adds to the game (as a previous pro owner). Don’t just assume it’s a detriment like many make it seem - from my experience, it def varies by game as I had a premium before my LE and although it wasn’t super clunky, it wasn’t the butter that I have now.
Quoted from delt31:My example (LE) is butter smooth. Not clunky at all and it really adds to the game (as a previous pro owner). Don’t just assume it’s a detriment like many make it seem - from my experience, it def varies by game as I had a premium before my LE and although it wasn’t super clunky, it wasn’t the butter that I have now.
Does yours have the ramp flap modification? Have you done anything to make it smoother or was it always that way? I'm the second owner of my LE, and most of the time I get a nice smooth shot but occasionally I get a rattly clunky junk fest.. I'm usually good at spotting these things but for the life of me I can't determine what the fix may be.
Quoted from WildRover:For TWD prem/LE owners....is the bicycle girl ramp really that much more clunky than the pro?
You can mod it to take most of the clunk out. I have the ramp flap mod and also changed one of my metal posts to make the transition level as well as affixing a piece of mylar to the transition to smooth it out. It will never be as smooth as the Pro because it is steeper but I'm happy with how it plays.
Quoted from WildRover:For TWD prem/LE owners....is the bicycle girl ramp really that much more clunky than the pro?
Nope....its a very nice added feature
Thanks everyone. I used two own a pro but have a hankering for a prem. I just love the mood lighting and walker bombs on the prems.
Quoted from WildRover:Thanks everyone. I used two own a pro but have a hankering for a prem. I just love the mood lighting and walker bombs on a the prems.
Buy with confidence!
Hello. I was wanting to attach two led flash strips to my walking dead topper for my walking dead pro. They were going to attach to the prison flashers, both of them. What is the best way to do that without alligator clips? I do already have a backbox light kit, mezels tower, and hitchhikers sign. And what light would be best for it? I tried lermods pop bumper flashers.
Quoted from Gamemodder:Hello. I was wanting to attach two led flash strips to my walking dead topper for my walking dead pro. They were going to attach to the prison flashers, both of them. What is the best way to do that without alligator clips? I do already have a backbox light kit, mezels tower, and hitchhikers sign. And what light would be best for it? I tried lermods pop bumper flashers.
I would check the voltages to verify compatibility but you could go to comet pinball and use their matrix setup and build yourself a nice wiring rig and hardware solder the connections in if you didn't want to use alligator clips which is what I do all the time...
Here's a search page from their site showing all kinds of different flashers and different voltages configurations...
You could just develop a wiring harness off the site that extends as a split off the prison flashers and feeds to the same voltage type flashers with some type of a mount near your topper
I did try and wire them directly to the board, and made a pass through connection so it can plug in and the original connection at the same time, but the lights i added didnt work but the original connector did.
And I originally did want to use comet lights (they are much cheaper) But they didnt have a 12 volt strip in red, they only have it in cool white.
Quoted from Gamemodder:I did try and wire them directly to the board, and made a pass through connection so it can plug in and the original connection at the same time, but the lights i added didnt work but the original connector did.
And I originally did want to use comet lights (they are much cheaper) But they didnt have a 12 volt strip in red, they only have it in cool white.
Do you absolutely need a strip, what about some focused sockets or bayonet type?
Quoted from punkin:Just put Precision Halographic flippers in TWD. What a great mod, these things are the business.
[quoted image]
Any installation issues? I had a friend put some on his Hook and had to do a little modification around the bushing.
Nothing a Dremel didn't make short work of.
Quoted from Fulltilt:Any installation issues? I had a friend put some on his Hook and had to do a little modification around the bushing.
Nothing a Dremel didn't make short work of.
No, 5 min job on TWD, the pinch bolts are easy to get too, unlike DP. The bushing comes out with three screws, the new bushing and shaft slip in and three screws back in.
Tighten all up securely then drop the playfield and put the flippers in from the top with the screws holding them down
Lifting playfields for flipper adjustment is a thing of the past and you can now make small incremental adjustments from the top to droop the flippers slightly to hit the drops.
These things are going to be mod of the year. Well deserved for the engineer that's producing them too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/review-precision-pinball-products-cnc-flipper-system
tried to put shaker motor in twd pro,, does not work. no directions came with it.. i am left with a tiny circuit board and a long piece with ten piece connector. what ever you call it. any pictures of where they go would be appreciated...thank you
Quoted from gmanrulz46:tried to put shaker motor in twd pro,, does not work. no directions came with it.. i am left with a tiny circuit board and a long piece with ten piece connector. what ever you call it. any pictures of where they go would be appreciated...thank you
There are several videos on YouTube for sam system, check and see if it's the same.
Quoted from gmanrulz46:tried to put shaker motor in twd pro,, does not work. no directions came with it.. i am left with a tiny circuit board and a long piece with ten piece connector. what ever you call it. any pictures of where they go would be appreciated...thank you
Ask who you bought it from for the directions on how to fit. The small circuit board you are referring to is extremely important to your game. I do not have a copy of the fitting instructions otherwise I would post for you.
Quoted from gmanrulz46:tried to put shaker motor in twd pro,, does not work. no directions came with it.. i am left with a tiny circuit board and a long piece with ten piece connector. what ever you call it. any pictures of where they go would be appreciated...thank you
Quoted from punkin:No, 5 min job on TWD, the pinch bolts are easy to get too, unlike DP. The bushing comes out with three screws, the new bushing and shaft slip in and three screws back in.
Tighten all up securely then drop the playfield and put the flippers in from the top with the screws holding them down
Lifting playfields for flipper adjustment is a thing of the past and you can now make small incremental adjustments from the top to droop the flippers slightly to hit the drops.
These things are going to be mod of the year. Well deserved for the engineer that's producing them too.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/review-precision-pinball-products-cnc-flipper-system
So reading between the lines it sounds like they made a big difference during game play? How much is a complete set?
Quoted from PtownPin:it sounds like they made a big difference during game play? How much is a complete set?
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1341-precision-pinball-prod/all
Quoted from PtownPin:So reading between the lines it sounds like they made a big difference during game play? How much is a complete set?
They make a very big difference to the perception of game play to me. It's not reflected in scores at this point, but others have said they are noticing particular hard shots are easier (for me it's Gem on Tron), and suggesting their scores are improving.
As to whether they are truly more repeatable accuracy wise, I doubt I'm a good enough player to notice that.
As to whether they enhance my ability to feel and control the ball, i absolutely do feel that is the case.
They work out at a couple hundred $au a set for me in Australia, dunno how many grand greenbacks that is.
Quoted from punkin:Just put Precision Halographic flippers in TWD. What a great mod, these things are the business.
[quoted image]
I got through the first couple of pages on the review thread and laughed out loud numerous times, it is a fantastic read, I got bored eventually, but I wasn't going to get through almost 30 pages to find out if the product was legit or not. I honestly don't need more than what you've posted above to have faith in it though. I've read enough of your posts to know you'd call bullsh!t if it wasn't legit. Only knock on the product for me is cosmetic, I'm such a fool for the original look of flipper bats, I'm not a flipper bat topper fan, I like yellow bats on my TWD and white bats on my Bally's.
Thanks mate, try to say it as i see it.
The cosmetics are one of the main drawcards for me, but i know that everyone see's art and function in different shades. I already had black bats/red rubbers in TWD, they just look better to me.
Consensus, even now from flynibus, is that these things are fantastic in their ability to make people look like better players, and the developer is an engineer who listens to feedback and is still making constant improvements.
People were worried that the bushings would wear because of the shafts and metal on metal (they wouldn't), so John incorporated oilite bushings into the next gen of bushings.
They were worried that the ball could contact the ridge under the rubber at the point of the bat (it could with thin rubbers) so he redesigned the shape of the supporting ridge to eliminate that.
Quoted from punkin:these things are fantastic in their ability to make people look like better players
You could say the same thing about Super-Bands.
Quoted from Neal_W:You could say the same thing about Super-Bands.
If you'd like to you can. I wouldn't.
Could say the same thing about practice though.
Having an issue with my Xbow, hope that somebody can help me.
It loads the Xbow, it starts to move out for just a few mm, than it briefly stops and at the same moment the mode ends. Than Xbow will continu to move out and will fire the ball.
Puzzled on this for several hours, changed out even the switch but no luck. Banged the playfield with a fist to see if any flakey switch was present but no luck (as there was a mentioning once on this). It happens like 60-70% of the times.
Anybody an idea?
Am I correct in think that well walker switch is default closed? Eg when I hit the well walker it will open the switch which is than seen as a well walker hit.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twd-club-only-walkers-not-welcome/page/222?hl=gamemodder and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.