Quoted from Alby:This is the one that came with my game , not sure where the previous owner got it from .
[quoted image]
yeah thats it, i found them yesterday.
Quoted from Alby:This is the one that came with my game , not sure where the previous owner got it from .
[quoted image]
yeah thats it, i found them yesterday.
Quoted from roar:Pretty sure that's the same one posted just above that's being used as a topper... for those looking for it, search ebay for "walking dead bank" it will give you results like this:
ebay.com link: itm
no, its not the same one. same design though.
Quoted from embryon:Similar to the Jurassic park boys changing the jeep out. It doesn't appear anywhere in the video or art so looks a little out of place.
Quoted from swampfire:I have come to love the Well Walker in the game. Just throw some rope (twine) around those man breasts. Looks great. See:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twd-club-only-walkers-not-welcome/page/204#post-6354230
I really like this idea - thanks for sharing. I just bought some. How did you attach it? Just tie from behind or glue?
I got a really nice LE about 6 months ago and really enjoy it. I replaced the brown with blood splatter armor which I think is still stern’s coolest looking armor mod. The code is great and with the modded cle code, she really sings.
My barn magnet locks the ball, but do not relise it?
I havet to nudge the game very little to realise it.
Quoted from Tjohejsan:My barn magnet locks the ball, but do not relise it?
I havet to nudge the game very little to realise it.
It should release on its own. The magnet may be dented or not level with the playfield.
I'm not a big fan of the existing well walker either. I repainted mine in hopes to make it look better with mixed results. I might have to put some rope around it too.
20210909_151403 (resized).jpgQuoted from embryon:Similar to the Jurassic park boys changing the jeep out. It doesn't appear anywhere in the video or art so looks a little out of place.
Actually the jeeps they are doing in JP is in the ultimate code video clips from Tim.
Quoted from DeathHimself:Actually the jeeps they are doing in JP is in the ultimate code video clips from Tim.
I was going to mention the same. The code Tim and I worked on takes care of that!
Quoted from Tjohejsan:My barn magnet locks the ball, but do not relise it?
I havet to nudge the game very little to realise it.
Balls magnetised.
Change them
Quoted from Tjohejsan:My barn magnet locks the ball, but do not relise it?
I havet to nudge the game very little to realise it.
Jack up the back legs!
Quoted from DeathHimself:Actually the jeeps they are doing in JP is in the ultimate code video clips from Tim.
Yes true but not on stock stern cab art or video
Has anyone installed the upgraded bracket kit on their pro?
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-playfield-support-slide-bracket-kit-for-sam-machines.html
The spring things are not terribly useful, but I was wondering if and where you would have to drill holes into the playfield to install these.
Quoted from setzkor:Has anyone installed the upgraded bracket kit on their pro?
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-playfield-support-slide-bracket-kit-for-sam-machines.html
The spring things are not terribly useful, but I was wondering if and where you would have to drill holes into the playfield to install these.
I bought them but have been too scared to drill into the bottom of my pf...
Quoted from Fezmid:I bought them but have been too scared to drill into the bottom of my pf...
You can always put a piece of tape on a drill bit for a stop indicator. Just place the drill against the edge of the PF as a guide and make sure the tape is placed so when the tape barely touches the underside of the PF - you're at the right depth. And recheck the tape placement after each hole is drilled. Or you can buy some drill 'depth stops', like below. Another option is to cut the drill bit to the right length that when it bottoms out in the chuck - you just can't drill thru the PF.
But I'm with you on installing those under the PF just because 'stuff happens'. I've installed the corner brackets on a few Sterns to prevent cabinet corner issues and I'm comfortable with the tape method.
Quoted from Fezmid:I bought them but have been too scared to drill into the bottom of my pf...
So do the instructions detail where the holes need to go? Is it under the playable part of the playfield, or under a plastic somewhere?
Quoted from setzkor:So do the instructions detail where the holes need to go? Is it under the playable part of the playfield, or under a plastic somewhere?
Due to the under playfield mechanisms on each pin being different the locations will be dependant on that. Simply loosely attach them with the nut to the apron area first and then position them to where they will fit and not affect an assembly. Then mark the spot where you need to drill. I use tape on my drill bit (but make sure the tape does not slip down before drilling your second one). It is pretty simple - I have done 5 Sterns this way.
Quoted from Faust:Anyone has a link or info on this mod?
the DIY mod I mean
There were a couple posts about it here. I have posted my version as well. That’s about it afaik.. not many people doing it as it’s a little involved (buying McFarland characters, cutting and gluing them, creating a bracket/carrier for them.
I would share the carrier I created for 3D printing if interested Pm me. It slides onto and bolts to the same hardware that the giant head is attached to. But it requires heat set nuts and new bolts..
Quoted from setzkor:So do the instructions detail where the holes need to go? Is it under the playable part of the playfield, or under a plastic somewhere?
I remember people mentioning there's dimples indicating where to drill. Can't say I've looked for them.
Quoted from mbwalker:I remember people mentioning there's dimples indicating where to drill. Can't say I've looked for them.
If there's dimples why the need to drill. I've swapped dozens of playfield with say CPR playfields and have screwed where the dimples are direct. Never had a pf split if that's the concern but I can't remember what wood screws hold these brackets. Can someone explain why the pre drilling? I'm sure I'm missing something important here no doubt.
could somebody post some close-ups of their topper, gotta be an easy way to reproduce so i don't have to pay for an original.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:gotta be an easy way to reproduce
Get an 10 gallon aquarium. Zombie heads off of Ebay. Figure some lights. Done.
LTG : )
Its one of the coolest toppers and won't be easy to reproduce. At $400 it was a pass for me (so I made the little aquarium for the upper right of the playfield like the premium/LE). Same function, same look but small.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:could somebody post some close-ups of their topper, gotta be an easy way to reproduce so i don't have to pay for an original.
Quoted from embryon:If there's dimples why the need to drill. I've swapped dozens of playfield with say CPR playfields and have screwed where the dimples are direct. Never had a pf split if that's the concern but I can't remember what wood screws hold these brackets. Can someone explain why the pre drilling? I'm sure I'm missing something important here no doubt.
I'm not the OP about installing the bracket and screws, so I don't know the size of the screws. But I do it most the time just to make the screw go in easier and of course, being worried about splitting. If it was a #6, probably wouldn't predrill, but a #10 - yeah I'd pre-drill. Kinda on the fence on a #8. Just a personal preference of mine, never had to do it to a PF tho, only when adding cabinet corner braces to the Sterns.
Back in the club after a year and a half hiatus. Wanted a premium but ended up with a pro. Still love it, not sure why it ever left.
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:Back in the club after a year and a half hiatus. Wanted a premium but ended up with a pro. Still love it, not sure why it ever left.
I had an LE sold it years ago, come back to the club in the past few months with a pro, other them really missing the walker bomb button I like the pro over the prem and LE. Just love the flow on this machine.
Quoted from DeathHimself:I had an LE sold it years ago, come back to the club in the past few months with a pro, other them really missing the walker bomb button I like the pro over the prem and LE. Just love the flow on this machine.
Me too - the ball just flows right into the drain all the time...
...and I keep coming back for more.
Quoted from Fezmid:Me too - the ball just flows right into the drain all the time...
...and I keep coming back for more.
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:The balls seem to eject hard into shooter lane. No setting to lower the power?
Nope. Unfortunately.
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:The balls seem to eject hard into shooter lane. No setting to lower the power?
This setting is available on Spike games, but not SAM.
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:The balls seem to eject hard into shooter lane. No setting to lower the power?
As it’s not a setting you can also insert a few ohm resistor of let’s say 5 watt. This will reduce the current going to the coil making it weaker.
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:The balls seem to eject hard into shooter lane. No setting to lower the power?
There is a ball shooter lane protector sold on Pinball Life for $10, steel. It will save the wood on your shooter lane. When you hear it , steel on pinball, you won’t think anything about it. I put it on all my games.
Has anyone run across a sound mod based on slayer but without that (i think) Cannibal Corpse Blood Bath multiball song? Pretty much the worst song I've ever heard. Not too sure how to change it myself so thought I'd ask. thanks.
Quoted from HIPPY:There is a ball shooter lane protector sold on Pinball Life for $10, steel. It will save the wood on your shooter lane. When you hear it , steel on pinball, you won’t think anything about it. I put it on all my games.
Thanks. Already ordered!
Has anyone seen the cool blood splattered glass that Refinery Pinball used on some of their walking dead machines? I was wondering if anyone has had any experience trying to stain the glass themselves? And are willing to share what they used to do so, maybe a clear epoxy with a red dye maybe?
I think others have used gels, kinda like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Zonon-Halloween-Decorations-Including-Handprint/dp/B096G1GZ8D
Quoted from Cento:Has anyone seen the cool blood splattered glass that Refinery Pinball used on some of their walking dead machines? I was wondering if anyone has had any experience trying to stain the glass themselves? And are willing to share what they used to do so, maybe a clear epoxy with a red dye maybe?
I used these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H2H9TLP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:The balls seem to eject hard into shooter lane. No setting to lower the power?
This game is to metal to turn anything down.
Quoted from Cento:Has anyone seen the cool blood splattered glass that Refinery Pinball used on some of their walking dead machines? I was wondering if anyone has had any experience trying to stain the glass themselves? And are willing to share what they used to do so, maybe a clear epoxy with a red dye maybe?
I think they just used a clear decal that had blood splattered on it. I bought some of these for my ramps some years ago.
For a premium/LE, could someone provide the decal number for the decal on the far right side rod the apron that sits over the shooter rod itself?
Quoted from Cento:For a premium/LE, could someone provide the decal number for the decal on the far right side rod the apron that sits over the shooter rod itself?
Should be the same as the pro. I can check in a bit.
Quoted from Cento:For a premium/LE, could someone provide the decal number for the decal on the far right side rod the apron that sits over the shooter rod itself?
If they are available individually, reach out to Terry at PinballLife. He'll add it to his weekly Stern order. I've done that before a couple of times. Sometimes it's only part of a complete set (had that problem with a Munsters plastic part).
From the TWD LE manual (I have a Pro):
pasted_image (resized).pngIf anyone is interested in picking up a TWD in the New England area I’m letting my go. Gotta make room for a few new ones. https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/120808
So, transferred the bling from the PRO to the LE, pro is to his new owner and the upgrade is finished.
Must say that the BG ramp shoots great, better as I expected. Have ordered the cliffy for it (the playfield below is OK but the mylar is damaged already from the rivets). Just paging Gnassel for his BG mod but no reaction sofar
16A49B14-D95F-48C8-B93F-F0F9D0C74986 (resized).jpeg262294B8-BF04-4FBE-899D-CC4FFD78C158 (resized).jpeg6BF5970B-415E-4B32-9E64-DF612D14EBCE (resized).jpeg908666DF-E6C5-4308-AFF9-9A7FE588DAE2 (resized).jpegB66D7391-BD30-4AFA-B853-84796CC17666 (resized).jpegC3AC1E00-8F92-4BF1-B0C2-990DA522F9F7 (resized).jpegE75EDAB0-8E5F-457C-941F-C9BA68560AC4 (resized).jpegQuoted from Rensh:So, transferred the bling from the PRO to the LE, pro is to his new owner and the upgrade is finished.
Must say that the BG ramp shoots great, better as I expected. Have ordered the cliffy for it (the playfield below is OK but the mylar is damaged already from the rivets). Just paging Gnassel for his BG mod but no reaction sofar
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You can use thin spring steel to cut a flap and adhere it to the bottom of the BG ramp flap that is already on there. Just snug it up to the rivets and cut it so it raises the ramp angle about a half inch (need about 1.5” of total flap length. This will help tremendously. It smooths out the angle so it isn’t so steep and it keeps it from clunking so much on that shot.
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