(Topic ID: 106132)

TWD Club, only walkers not welcome !!!

By pinball_erie

7 years ago


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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Rensh
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#10201 83 days ago
Quoted from Multiballmaniac1:

If you have a really great game on a game you’re selling should you keep it? Just got to Horde on my LE for sale. I may have to take the ad down tomorrow. Horde is so badass.

Great game, terrible game, mediocre game… in all instances if the game you’re selling is TWD, you should definitely keep it!! I just can’t imagine letting mine go EVER.

#10202 82 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

I have the revision A board which used the 22NE10L which I hear can blow at the drop of a hat, so of course I pull out the DMM and test the transistor and yep it's shot and locked wide open allowing the current just to flow through. I'm in the process of swapping boards with the distro as I only grabbed this yesterday and installed today, but I will be picking up a few of the upgraded 40 Amp N Channel Mosfet transistor from PBL just in-case this one blows again and replace the chip myself.

I thought this era of game used the rev b shaker motors.

https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-b-for-most-stern-sam-system-games.html

#10203 82 days ago

I think the A and B are both correct, now if I'm right Rev A with all those extra cables and plugs are Sterns Shaker kit, this Rev B is PBL version for Stern Sam machines. ( This is only my assumption as I cannot find a different versions on Sterns site )

If you look at the two PCB boards between A and B, A has Stern on the board and B board has Shaker Motor Interface Board.

Both will work fine just that Stern used that 20A transistor which pops easily. So I just ordered some of the beefier 40A upgrades to drop in.

PBL-600-0112-00_360x360 (resized).jpgstern sam (resized).jpg
#10204 82 days ago

I had rev A on my Metallica premium and the hammer lock was very unreliable and after trying everything I purchased an aftermarket rev b and happy days for a couple of years now

#10205 81 days ago

TWD back up and shaking like a pro, those dam 20A transistors suck wind.....

#10206 81 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

Has anyone came across the issue where you added a shaker motor (sterns) to the game and after a few seconds of performing normal the motor just runs continuously ever after ball drain and and game over?
I can tell you it's a Stern shaker kit with daughter board Rev A.
Game running latest code revision.
I'm leaning towards a bad or blown transistor.... and hopefully on the daughter board (shaker board).
TIA

Quoted from DeathHimself:

I was think along the lines of the 22NE10L transistor blowing, if I'm correct they can blow and having the current constantly flow with no gate to stop it. However I kneel to those who are more electrically inclined them myself

I had the transistor blow on my Stern shaker in AC/DC (purchased directly from Stern). Shaker was on constantly, but I shut the pin off before there was any issues, so I can't comment on the ball drain/game over. Pretty sure it was a Rev A board, and Stern sent a new board since it failed fairly soon after purchase.

Regarding the ball drain/game over, just pull the power supply wire from the shaker board and see if it clears up that issue.

#10207 81 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

I had the transistor blow on my Stern shaker in AC/DC (purchased directly from Stern). Shaker was on constantly, but I shut the pin off before there was any issues, so I can't comment on the ball drain/game over. Pretty sure it was a Rev A board, and Stern sent a new board since it failed fairly soon after purchase.
Regarding the ball drain/game over, just pull the power supply wire from the shaker board and see if it clears up that issue.

Edit - Just saw you got it fixed!

#10208 80 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Edit - Just saw you got it fixed!

yep those transistors on the Rev A board from Stern which is their only board btw, suck.

Here is the replacement beefier transistor if it happens again:

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=110-0106-00

#10209 77 days ago

So I just got a TWD and the previous owners had put in a bunch of LEDS but they are flickering. Do ya’ll have LED OCD boards installed or will non ghosting inserts do the trick? Also...want to install a shaker. Do the Stern SAM take the same pinballife shakers or do I need something else? Thanks!

#10210 77 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

So I just got a TWD and the previous owners had put in a bunch of LEDS but they are flickering. Do ya’ll have LED OCD boards installed or will non ghosting inserts do the trick? Also...want to install a shaker. Do the Stern SAM take the same pinballife shakers or do I need something else? Thanks!

PBL Sam shaker with shaker board Rev B will work fine

or

Sterns Sam shaker kit with shaker board Rev A will work fine however they used a 20A Transistor that sometimes can blow at the drop of a dime and if that happens you just replace it with the beefier 40A transistor that PBL sells for $5.00

#10211 77 days ago

Thanks! Any recommendations on this LED situation? Game looks like it’s on the fritz, lamps aren’t fading...they just flash and some flicker when they’re not supposed to be lit. Assuming the prior owner didn’t use non ghosting bulbs? Did the SAM games ship with incandescent like Whitestar?

Quoted from DeathHimself:

PBL Sam shaker with shaker board Rev B will work fine
or
Sterns Sam shaker kit with shaker board Rev A will work fine however they used a 20A Transistor that sometimes can blow at the drop of a dime and if that happens you just replace it with the beefier 40A transistor that PBL sells for $5.00

#10212 77 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Thanks! Any recommendations on this LED situation? Game looks like it’s on the fritz, lamps aren’t fading...they just flash and some flicker when they’re not supposed to be lit. Assuming the prior owner didn’t use non ghosting bulbs? Did the SAM games ship with incandescent like Whitestar?

I thought all version were shipped with LEDs, the LE and Prem had surface board mount LEDs I believe as where the pro had 555 and 44/47 style LEDs

#10213 77 days ago

If you have a machine currently with non ghosting LEDs in it, pull one or two and put in TWD where you see that flicker ghosting and see if it stops. If it does then you know you have to bite the bullet and re do the machine, if not it might be another issue all together.

#10214 77 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

I thought all version were shipped with LEDs, the LE and Prem had surface board mount LEDs I believe as where the pro had 555 and 44/47 style LEDs

Yeah, I'm pretty sure by the time TWD hit, all games were full LED.

#10215 77 days ago

Thanks fellas! Is the shaker well integrated in this game? Is it a must have?

Quoted from DeathHimself:

If you have a machine currently with non ghosting LEDs in it, pull one or two and put in TWD where you see that flicker ghosting and see if it stops. If it does then you know you have to bite the bullet and re do the machine, if not it might be another issue all together.

Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Yeah, I'm pretty sure by the time TWD hit, all games were full LED.

#10216 77 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Thanks fellas! Is the shaker well integrated in this game? Is it a must have?

Absolutely love the way Lyman utilized the shaker in TWD.

#10217 77 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Thanks fellas! Is the shaker well integrated in this game? Is it a must have?

Definitely a must have. Makes it feel like you're fighting the zombie horde. Love it.

#10218 76 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Thanks fellas! Is the shaker well integrated in this game? Is it a must have?

Absolutely! It turns the machine into a walker! I also highly recommend adding an external sub, it brings the sound, shaker, and game play all together in a way I haven't experienced in another game. It is like a full-on battle when the ball is in the pops. And wait until you start Horde for the first time with this setup...!

#10219 76 days ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Absolutely! It turns the machine into a walker! I also highly recommend adding an external sub, it brings the sound, shaker, and game play all together in a way I haven't experienced in another game. It is like a full-on battle when the ball is in the pops. And wait until you start Horde for the first time with this setup...!

Also, don't forget the Cleland code if you want callouts from the show in the game.

As far as LEDs go, if they're flickering down by the flippers, you might need to take off the flipper mech and resolder the wiring to the socket. Pretty common IME on Stern games, for whatever reason. Probably from vibrations.

If it's somewhere else in the game, the LEDs might be cheaper/poorer quality. Would be time to go with Comets.

#10220 73 days ago

So...i hooked up the SAM rev B shaker from pinball life to my TWD. All the connectors are in place and the game is set to max shaker use but...I’ve got zero shakes going. None at all...any advise here? Again this is my first time installing a shaker in a SAM game. Thanks for all your help!

Update: just noticed there is a ground cable for the shaker and from what I’ve read on pinside it is supposed to connect to J3 on the SM PCB...but...there are no f’n pins. The F?!? Anyone else have this prob?

Quoted from DeathHimself:

Absolutely love the way Lyman utilized the shaker in TWD.

0A1A0194-8CB0-4DD0-911E-9BDE99AC37E9 (resized).jpeg364E5514-9624-4BB6-A120-7A294952A822 (resized).jpeg

#10221 73 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

So...i hooked up the SAM rev B shaker from pinball life to my TWD. All the connectors are in place and the game is set to max shaker use but...I’ve got zero shakes going. None at all...any advise here? Again this is my first time installing a shaker in a SAM game. Thanks for all your help!
Update: just noticed there is a ground cable for the shaker and from what I’ve read on pinside it is supposed to connect to J3 on the SM PCB...but...there are no f’n pins. The F?!? Anyone else have this prob?

[quoted image][quoted image]

I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction, but here's the connection schematic for the Stern shaker (not PBL).

Be careful - I don't want to imply it's the same as PBL, but it might help you out.

It does look like your J3 is missing
pasted_image (resized).png

#10222 73 days ago

The instructions on the PBL shaker doesn’t even mention the ground wire, it’s bonkers. It’s gotta connect to the board to function, no?

Quoted from mbwalker:

I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction, but here's the connection schematic for the Stern shaker (not PBL).
Be careful - I don't want to imply it's the same as PBL, but it might help you out.
It does look like your J3 is missing
[quoted image]

#10223 73 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

The instructions on the PBL shaker doesn’t even mention the ground wire, it’s bonkers. It’s gotta connect to the board to function, no?

I googled aftermarket SAM shakers, and saw the same PWB as you have...looks like J3 not being installed is correct, for some reason.

I guess ping PBL for some better instructions, unless someone else chimes in here.

I did find a youtube video about the shaker install, maybe that might help (didn't watch all of it):

Looks like the brown wire connects in the back of the cabinet, red is connected near the front of the pin. Did you remember to connect the brown wire?

#10224 73 days ago

Yep, that’s exactly how I have mine installed. Someone else had this same issue and they found that the ground was in the wrong position at the J16 connector on the solenoid board...I don’t even know where to be begin looking into that haha.

Quoted from mbwalker:

I googled aftermarket SAM shakers, and saw the same PWB as you have...looks like J3 not being installed is correct, for some reason.
I guess ping PBL for some better instructions, unless someone else chimes in here.
I did find a youtube video about the shaker install, maybe that might help (didn't watch all of it):

#10225 73 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Yep, that’s exactly how I have mine installed. Someone else had this same issue and they found that the ground was in the wrong position at the J16 connector on the solenoid board...I don’t even know where to be begin looking into that haha.

If you have a volt meter, you can check for the input voltage. Don't forget to set the meter to AC.

pasted_image (resized).png
#10226 73 days ago

Thanks for your help man, I’ll check the voltage when I get back over to it.

Quoted from mbwalker:

If you have a volt meter, you can check for the input voltage. Don't forget to set the meter to AC.[quoted image]

#10227 73 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Thanks for your help man, I’ll check the voltage when I get back over to it.

So just 'thinking out loud', the Stern shaker board must have a driver MOSFET on the shaker board, whereas the PBL board doesn't have a MOSFET (it's using a MOSFET on the driver board). Hence, the ground is likely not needed.

pasted_image (resized).png
#10228 73 days ago

So, if I test the red connector and get no voltage, check the fuses on the Sm PCB, trace the wiring back and find no breaks or bad connections would you then assume that there may be an issue with the driver board? It’s a real head scratcher.

Quoted from mbwalker:

So just 'thinking out loud', the Stern shaker board must have a driver MOSFET on the shaker board, whereas the PBL board doesn't have a MOSFET (it's using a MOSFET on the driver board). Hence, the ground is likely not needed.[quoted image]

#10229 73 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

So, if I test the red connector and get no voltage, check the fuses on the Sm PCB, trace the wiring back and find no breaks or bad connections would you then assume that there may be an issue with the driver board? It’s a real head scratcher.

I think the red should be hot all the time (AC voltage). Then it looks like the two diodes on the board rectify the AC to DC for the shaker.

#10230 73 days ago

Looking at the schematic if you find you get no voltage at the red / white from the coin door input suggests an issue before the driver board?

Not sure if you need to override the door interlock to check that voltage?

I have always found pbl very helpful with a phone call

#10231 73 days ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

...Not sure if you need to override the door interlock to check that voltage?...

Looks like it does - good comment.

pasted_image (resized).png
#10232 73 days ago

Havnt had a chance to check voltage at Red / White but you definitely have to hold in the interlock to test the motor. I had done that while testing but got nothing.

Quoted from pinballjj:

Looking at the schematic if you find you get no voltage at the red / white from the coin door input suggests an issue before the driver board?
Not sure if you need to override the door interlock to check that voltage?
I have always found pbl very helpful with a phone call

#10233 73 days ago

Ah so the red you are referring to is the red from the shaker board?

Where do you have the brown from the shaker board going?

#10234 73 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

but you definitely have to hold in the interlock to test the motor.

Are those interlocks not two way where you can pull it out so it stays on while testing?

#10235 73 days ago

The pcb board has one molex connector that branches off to two one pin connectors. One is red/white and plugs into the cab near the coin door. The other Brown wire goes to the rear cab to the female one pin / brown wire. Everything is connected correctly ...but...nada.

(For clarity...the 7 pin from the shaker itself is seated properly on the sm pcb and the shaker is definitely activated in the menu)

Quoted from pinballjj:

Ah so the red you are referring to is the red from the shaker board?
Where do you have the brown from the shaker board going?

Not sure, possibly...but I don’t think that’s the prob.

Quoted from YeOldPinPlayer:

Are those interlocks not two way where you can pull it out so it stays on while testing?

#10236 67 days ago

Hmmm

I have a pro for 3 yrs which I really really like. Great pinball and my favorite for already several years. In fact I love it so much I am considering upgrading to a LE but that would set me back like usd 4000

Has there ever been a discussion which is better? Pro or LE ?

Man, normally I would say no but as it’s my no 1 theme and pinball choice is more tough. Damned, life is full of choices and some you have to make yourself

From a technical point of view my only content is the bicycle ramp but can try that out prior to buying ofcourse.

#10237 67 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Has there ever been a discussion which is better? Pro or LE ?

I think there has been many over the years, I can tell you from my experience and just my opinion. I had an LE years ago and ended up selling it, picked up a pro from a friend and awesome seller this year and IMHO I love the way to pro shoots over the LE. There were just some things about the LE that were little hiccups for me.

Bicycle girl ramp aside from needing foam under the flap to prevent damage to the PF, it just never seemed to sit right at the split joint and I was getting a ton of rejected shots no matter how many adjustments I tried.

The second magnet in front of the well walker was cool to have but not necessary, along with the crossbow feature.

Woodbury drop target, that dam decal would always seem to keep peeling off and jam the drop target often so I don't miss that as well, actually really like the flow without it.

Okay the lockbar Walker Bomb button, this to me is the biggest value loss when going from a LE/Prem to a pro, but to be honest again not a 4000 worth of a loss. However it's all about what you prefer.

For (me) I love the pro and very satisfied with it as such that for my liking I don't feel the need to upgrade for the few differences.

#10238 67 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

HmmmHas there ever been a discussion which is better? Pro or LE ?

Over the years I've had 3 pros, 1 LE and now I have a Premium.

The pro is great in its own right and the CDC ramp shoots smoother on it, no question. The pro is brutal as it is, but the Prem/LE is even rougher with the extra magnet and drop target, the walker bombs can help you out sometimes, but its still the tougher game.

The crossbow mech to me pushes an already great game over the top. The extras justify the extra cost on TWD and I am 95% a pro buyer for most games. AC/DC is the only other game where I feel the Premium/LE is a must.

#10239 67 days ago

My LE has been working flawlessly, smooth bicycle girl ramp, crossbow and magnets ok.
I bought mine from an operator who set everything up perfect, I just added the extra thick rubber below the pops.
Love the look of the LE. Vimtoman’s crate mod looks perfect on this one

#10240 66 days ago
Quoted from DeathHimself:

I think there has been many over the years, I can tell you from my experience and just my opinion. I had an LE years ago and ended up selling it, picked up a pro from a friend and awesome seller this year and IMHO I love the way to pro shoots over the LE. There were just some things about the LE that were little hiccups for me.
Bicycle girl ramp aside from needing foam under the flap to prevent damage to the PF, it just never seemed to sit right at the split joint and I was getting a ton of rejected shots no matter how many adjustments I tried.
The second magnet in front of the well walker was cool to have but not necessary, along with the crossbow feature.
Woodbury drop target, that dam decal would always seem to keep peeling off and jam the drop target often so I don't miss that as well, actually really like the flow without it.
Okay the lockbar Walker Bomb button, this to me is the biggest value loss when going from a LE/Prem to a pro, but to be honest again not a 4000 worth of a loss. However it's all about what you prefer.
For (me) I love the pro and very satisfied with it as such that for my liking I don't feel the need to upgrade for the few differences.

I agree totally on this post. If I had to do anything, I really miss the light show you get when you get to Beware The Horde mode on the Premium/LE versions. The red GI lights would flash and pulsate like a heartbeat while setting up the mode.

The bicycle girl ramp is super smooth on the pro, while the LE version I had was super clunky (even after some fixes). If Borg would have designed that ramp like he did on The Munsters' Spot Ramp, then that would have been a game changer.

Still, I had to get a pro version back mostly because of the theme, code, and DMD animations. Some of the best Stern has ever done.

#10241 66 days ago

I was on ball 3 and had 5 weapons solid lit. I got the ball in the Woodbury shot and one of the prizes was “start multikill”. Or something to that effect. I was able to get that and the 6th weapon flashing and it lit the Woodbury shot to start horde.

That had never happened to me before. I’d only seen 1000000 or 2000000 as the most valuable prize.

Of course I drained and didn’t start horde. FML.

#10242 66 days ago

Brand new to the club but just like with many things pinball related I am regrettably late to the party. In my short time in the hobby I’ve learned to love Lyman, Borg, and the more fucking magnets the better. This game has it all, especially with the Radiohead/NIN/cleland code, WOW.

This game deserves mods.

60B1FBE1-5E99-47AD-9AB3-8FC089E00F13 (resized).jpeg
#10243 66 days ago

Hmmm, my Cleland code doesn’t have NIN in it or any additional music. Just the sound bites from the show. Kinda want the tunesss too.

Quoted from jandrea95:

Brand new to the club but just like with many things pinball related I am regrettably late to the party. In my short time in the hobby I’ve learned to love Lyman, Borg, and the more fucking magnets the better. This game has it all, especially with the Radiohead/NIN/cleland code, WOW.
This game deserves mods. [quoted image]

#10244 66 days ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Hmmm, my Cleland code doesn’t have NIN in it or any additional music. Just the sound bites from the show. Kinda want the tunesss too.

O man, do a forum search for ATLpb, he took the cleland code and added music.

#10245 66 days ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

I was on ball 3 and had 5 weapons solid lit. I got the ball in the Woodbury shot and one of the prizes was “start multikill”. Or something to that effect. I was able to get that and the 6th weapon flashing and it lit the Woodbury shot to start horde.
That had never happened to me before. I’d only seen 1000000 or 2000000 as the most valuable prize.
Of course I drained and didn’t start horde. FML.

The more Woodburys you get the better the options become,I think after 3 or 4 ,EB appears

#10246 66 days ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

O man, do a forum search for ATLpb, he took the cleland code and added music.

Got a link, please? Searched the forums, but only one link shows up that didn't have the TWD file in it.

#10247 65 days ago
Quoted from mbwalker:

Got a link, please? Searched the forums, but only one link shows up that didn't have the TWD file in it.

Just shoot ATLpb a message that you are looking for The Walking Dead code and he will hook you up. I would send the message but I dont like sharing other peoples work without their permission. Loving it so far though.

#10248 65 days ago
Quoted from jandrea95:

Just shoot ATLpb a message that you are looking for The Walking Dead code and he will hook you up. I would send the message but I dont like sharing other peoples work without their permission. Loving it so far though.

So is this revised code utilized via the PinSound card?

#10249 65 days ago
Quoted from PtownPin:

So is this revised code utilized via the PinSound card?

No. Pinball browser.

12
#10250 65 days ago

cleland’s ROM - which replaces all of the cringe redneck callouts with actual clips from the show - rescued this game from obscurity. My friend ATLpb changed up the music from there. They’re both easy-going good dudes, and they don’t charge $150-250 like the douchebag in the Aerosmith thread.

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