I stuck with scan lines on my TWD. Seems to give it a gritty texture that’s suits the pin better. Color dmd lcd is the way to go though for sure. Had the color dmd led on mine when I bought it. Swapped it to my SWVE.
Rick
Quoted from mbwalker:It's an opto sensor, not a mechanical switch, I had a bad one, doesn't cost much to replace. Wouldn't hurt to clean the emitter and receiver diodes first tho.
Any videos around showing me how to do that by chance? Thanks!
Have another maintenance/repair question for everyone on my TWD Pro I acquired. I discovered some damage to the PF when cleaning this week. Notice the series of lines pointing at the well walker.
Is this normal? Obviously fixing the damage would be a huge task but what can I do to prevent in the future?
I'm doing a new coat of wax this week and ordered new balls from the ballbaron (carbon). Is the metal lip on the well walker the reason the balls are being damaged to the point they develop damage and dig into the playfield? I'm assuming that's what is happening here.
Walker1 (resized).jpgWalker2 (resized).jpgWalker3 (resized).jpgQuoted from jvivlemore:Any videos around showing me how to do that by chance? Thanks!
No video, but I found a picture.
Just going from memory, the rollover is adjustable. Sort of like a large plastic screw, meaning you can adjust the height. The sensor screws to the bottom. I'm thinking you can just remove the opto sensor (not a100% sure). When I was troubleshooting mine, I swapped the sensor with the other rollover opto to make sure it was really the sensor, which it was (maybe just swap the wires?).
I bought a replacement from Marco (out of stock) or Pinball Life, not very expensive.
What are your thoughts. My upper right inlane swtich generally registers but sometimes when shot upwards from a pop bumper and the ball goes through, it won't register. Is this an adjustment or more likely a flakey switch?
Quoted from jvivlemore:mbwalker Ok. I thought it was something beyond that. I found that part too by searching the model number except all of the websites I found that sold it were sold out. I'm guessing it's unique to this game or ones this old? Maybe not made anymore?
You can reach out to Terry (or Margarete) at Pinball Life and they can order one for you. If it's in stock at Stern, it won't take long. Pretty sure Terry orders weekly.
Definitely swap wire to make sure. I know you can buy just the optical sensor part by itself (not the entire round PC board), but unless you have some soldering skills, it might be a little tough since it's s surface mount part.
Quoted from embryon:What are your thoughts. My upper right inlane swtich generally registers but sometimes when shot upwards from a pop bumper and the ball goes through, it won't register. Is this an adjustment or more likely a flakey switch?
Have you tested it in the diagnostic menu?
Quoted from mbwalker:Have you tested it in the diagnostic menu?
I have. I also plugged the cable from the other rollover into that to see if it worked. It didn't register with both cables. That means it's definitely something between the button on the PF that's activated by the ball and the part you posted above. There's also a red LED light on that part too which I believe means it has an error or doesn't work based on research.
Quoted from jvivlemore:Have another maintenance/repair question for everyone on my TWD Pro I acquired. I discovered some damage to the PF when cleaning this week. Notice the series of lines pointing at the well walker.
Is this normal? Obviously fixing the damage would be a huge task but what can I do to prevent in the future?
I'm doing a new coat of wax this week and ordered new balls from the ballbaron (carbon). Is the metal lip on the well walker the reason the balls are being damaged to the point they develop damage and dig into the playfield? I'm assuming that's what is happening here.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Stared at pictures for a while. I don’t see any lines or damage pointing at the well walker. Balls get worn and dinged up hitting anything metal, over time. Personally I think home owners are way to anal about it.. I almost never change mine. I’d take a look in a year and see
Quoted from mbwalker:Have you tested it in the diagnostic menu?
Yes works most of the time, fails on the odd ball passing upward through it
Quoted from embryon:Yes works most of the time, fails on the odd ball passing upward through it
Is the ball getting a little airborne perhaps?
Quoted from Mbecker:Stared at pictures for a while. I don’t see any lines or damage pointing at the well walker. Balls get worn and dinged up hitting anything metal, over time. Personally I think home owners are way to anal about it.. I almost never change mine. I’d take a look in a year and see
Someone in another thread thinks it's actually rubber debris. I may give it another go with NOVUS 2.
I circled in this picture where I'm talking about by the way.
Walker3.jpgQuoted from jvivlemore:I have. I also plugged the cable from the other rollover into that to see if it worked. It didn't register with both cables. That means it's definitely something between the button on the PF that's activated by the ball and the part you posted above. There's also a red LED light on that part too which I believe means it has an error or doesn't work based on research.
If you have a good eye (and some experience), you can look for a bad solder joint. The sensor itself is the thing circled below. The rollover just breaks the light beam going across.
pasted_image (resized).png
Quoted from jvivlemore:Someone in another thread thinks it's actually rubber debris. I may give it another go with NOVUS 2.
I circled in this picture where I'm talking about by the way.
[quoted image]
Ah ok I see it now. Yeah, pretty certainly debris - rubber or from the walker belt sticker wearing off
Quoted from mbwalker:If you have a good eye (and some experience), you can look for a bad solder joint. The sensor itself is the thing circled below. The rollover just breaks the light beam going across. Doe the rollover still light up, and just that the sensor doesn't register?[quoted image]
Another cool trick is to look at that part with your phone camera. If the emitter is working, one side will have a light in it. You cant see it with teh naked eye, but the camera can pick it up.
Quoted from mbwalker:Is the ball getting a little airborne perhaps?
That is a fair point. More than likely it is. Thanks
Quoted from embryon:That is a fair point. More than likely it is. Thanks
Slow Mo video time!
Quoted from mbwalker:Just a heads up, the code is not family friendly. I even warn adults when they play the pin for the first time.
Any chance you know where I can go to get the code?
Quoted from Reefkeep:Any chance you know where I can go to get the code?
Yep, just search for Pinsider 'Cleland' and reach out to him.
Is there a way to turn on every single light on the playfield for better light while cleaning? When I go into the service menu some of the white lights turn on and I can get all of the lights to flash on and off when in the "test all lamps" diagnostic mode but I've seen some pinball machines have a way of turning everything on all at once (static with no blinking). The Buffalo Pinball cleaning video did this on the Avengers pinball. Possible in our TWD too?
I suggest turning the game off when cleaning or working on it. Get an external light to shine on the game if you need it.
Yeah those little spotlights on a stand is what we use when working on pinballs. Easier than going into menu's too. Just plug that fucker in.
Has anyone replaced their rubbers with the Titan silicone? Looks like those are the go to these days from posts around here. I haven’t seen anyone with a TWD post videos on YouTube though. Any feedback or reviews you can share if you have them? It’s my next project once I figure out what I need to remove and how to do it, etc.
Quoted from jvivlemore:Has anyone replaced their rubbers with the Titan silicone? Looks like those are the go to these days from posts around here. I haven’t seen anyone with a TWD post videos in YouTube though. Any feedback or reviews you can share if you have them? It’s my next project once I figure out what I need to remove and how to do it, etc.
Yes, was not bad at all. Behind the drops and around the Woodbury shot were the toughest, and even that was only a few screws
C7BF9D05-08DF-4B9B-9A86-67E011316F5A (resized).jpegDE38A385-85B4-4D56-8805-CB17BC2506D5 (resized).jpegThis is the most frustrating game to play. I'll have a number of horrible games and threaten to trade it out, but then I'll have an incredibly intense heart pumping session that makes me say that there is no way I would ever get rid of it.
I imagine this is one of those games that people trade out, regret it, and then bring another one back. I have a LE, I could see me going down to a Pro, but I don't think I could bear not having a TWD machine.
I want one to stick next to a BSD for the same reason.
I've played hundreds, if not thousands of games of TWD, mostly on one that is set up particularly difficult (think PAPA), and have come so close to getting LMS and horde, but could just never get over the finish line. And I still want to come back for more all the time.
Quoted from sliprose:This is the most frustrating game to play. I'll have a number of horrible games and threaten to trade it out, but then I'll have an incredibly intense heart pumping session that makes me say that there is no way I would ever get rid of it.
That’s pretty much the reason TWD on my wishlist. I absolutely hated this game when it came out, I went to a launch party and my games were all around a minute long. Playing around 50 games at an arcade changed my mind. And last week I had a nice 130M game during league, pure adrenaline. I miss getting that feeling from Iron Man.
Quoted from jvivlemore:Has anyone replaced their rubbers with the Titan silicone? Looks like those are the go to these days from posts around here. I haven’t seen anyone with a TWD post videos in YouTube though. Any feedback or reviews you can share if you have them? It’s my next project once I figure out what I need to remove and how to do it, etc.
I'll echo @2000_alum's thoughts here... really easy game to swap rubbers on, and I went with clear Titans too. Easier if you haven't modded the heck out of it with wires all over the place. I stripped mine down pretty good and removed the mods along the way which made it easier to reassemble.
Pictures here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twd-club-only-walkers-not-welcome/page/148#post-4764678
Thanks roar & @2000_alum. This definitely isn't a simple remove some screws on the top of the playfield and swap them out right? I noticed some are under ramps towards the back so I'm guessing I'm unscrewing things underneath too? I searched YouTube for a good tutorial video of how the heck to do this last night but all I could find were people showing their machines AFTER the job was done but not actually doing the job on any machine.
Quoted from sliprose:This is the most frustrating game to play. I'll have a number of horrible games and threaten to trade it out, but then I'll have an incredibly intense heart pumping session that makes me say that there is no way I would ever get rid of it.
I imagine this is one of those games that people trade out, regret it, and then bring another one back. I have a LE, I could see me going down to a Pro, but I don't think I could bear not having a TWD machine.
Every time I have a pinball party everyone stays clear of my TWD. Everyone hates it. I get asked why I keep it in the lineup and I tell them the exact thing. It's that one white knuckle, kick ass game that keeps it there. But I admit, sometimes I just want to throw it out on the lawn.
Quoted from jvivlemore:Thanks roar & 2000_Alum. This definitely isn't a simple remove some screws on the top of the playfield and swap them out right? I noticed some are under ramps towards the back so I'm guessing I'm unscrewing things underneath too? I searched YouTube for a good tutorial video of how the heck to do this last night but all I could find were people showing their machines AFTER the job was done but not actually doing the job on any machine.
Nothing should be needed to be removed from underneath the playfield to change rubbers. Just need to possibly move some ramps out of the way. Sterns are easy. Just take pictures and put sections of the game into bags so you remember where pieces go. Label the bags. Take your time and take pictures from all angles and after each layer is taken off.
Quoted from jvivlemore:Thanks roar & 2000_Alum. This definitely isn't a simple remove some screws on the top of the playfield and swap them out right? I noticed some are under ramps towards the back so I'm guessing I'm unscrewing things underneath too? I searched YouTube for a good tutorial video of how the heck to do this last night but all I could find were people showing their machines AFTER the job was done but not actually doing the job on any machine.
Just dig in would be my recommendation Take pictures if you're worried about not remembering where things go, but if you go slow and just start on one side of the playfield and work around you'll get them all swapped. I don't recall anything under the playfield that needs to be removed, I believe any of the wires on the ramps have connectors on the top side you can disconnect. The trickiest part is the left ramp on TWD but I can't remember if it even needs to come off to swap rubbers or not... I know I took mine off as I like to do a more full tear down when swapping all the rubbers on a game and give it a really good playfield clean... orbits are often neglected and have some build up on them as they are hard to reach.
So if the left ramp needs to come off the only pain in the but is I'm pretty sure you need to take the big back plastic on the backboard off to get the ramp all the way off... but again, going slow, and going piece by piece, it's a piece a cake... you'll learn a lot more about your machine on the journey too... dive in I say!
Edit: And of course chuckwurt beat me in here... he always says things in less words and is always right, do what chuck says
Quoted from jvivlemore:Has anyone replaced their rubbers with the Titan silicone?...
No video, but TWD was one of the easiest games to install Titans on. Some can be a real PIA. Very straight forward of just removing some screws for the most part, can't remember anything difficult.
I think I mentioned earlier to print the pages of the manual of the rubber locations and sizes. Highlight each spot when you replace. Comes in handy to make sure you don't miss any. That page usually has the sizing circles too to, helps to make sure you get the right size in the right spot.
Also, put a rag or something down on the playfield so if by chance, the screw driver or whatever slips, it's protected. And put it down in a way that if a washer, nut, etc. falls...it won't get lost. Ditto around any openings, so it doesn't fall into the cabinet.
If there's a post under the screw, keep an eye out to make the post doesn't turn too. A magnetic screwdriver comes in handy at times, all depends on the pin. The hardware is SAE, not metric (i.e. #6, #8 screws, etc).
Yeah, it's just a sticker, comes off easily. I think it's stocked at most places, e.g.
https://www.pinballlife.com/the-walking-dead-well-walker-decal.html
Quoted from sliprose:This is the most frustrating game to play. I'll have a number of horrible games and threaten to trade it out, but then I'll have an incredibly intense heart pumping session that makes me say that there is no way I would ever get rid of it.
I imagine this is one of those games that people trade out, regret it, and then bring another one back. I have a LE, I could see me going down to a Pro, but I don't think I could bear not having a TWD machine.
I just did the opposite. I sold my pimped out Pro and bought an LE. This is in my top 3 out of 30 pins... Brutally hard and a blast to play.
Quoted from Kingpin22:Is there a way to replace the well walker belt tape thingy best seen in this picture? Mine is starting to chip away on the right side.
[quoted image]
Remove the rubber pad and then the decal and then replace with the new.
Pingraffix sells the jeans one but I replaced my old one with the jeans one and it deteriorated after only a few games. I'd stick with the stern one.
Quoted from embryon:Remove the rubber pad and then the decal and then replace with the new.
Pingraffix sells the jeans one but I replaced my old one with the jeans one and it deteriorated after only a few games. I'd stick with the stern one.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/the-walking-dead-walker-pants
I was kind of surprised at how resilient the pants seemed to be so far but I don't know when they were installed and we probably only have a little over 100 games in.
Quoted from Chalkey:I was kind of surprised at how resilient the pants seemed to be so far but I don't know when they were installed and we probably only have a little over 100 games in.
I saw this on an earlier post. If you want it finished, wrap a flipper rubber on it. Works great, kinda hard to install. Research this thread for it.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Yes. And vice versa. Blood bath doesn’t really lock you out of anything.
I got the feeling to have played 2 aka modes in the same times. Is it possible? I’m not sure of me, i didn’t really pay attention to this
I assume you’re talking about the main feature modes. If so, no, you cannot play two of those at once.
Pretty sure the only things that can't stack are dead features (modes) and prison / well walker can not be run at the same time.
Quoted from colonel_caverne:During blood bath MB, can you lit aka modes (those remaining)?
It’s been over a year since I played but one of the settings does lock you out somehow.
I think it’s competition mode.
Quoted from setzkor:Yeah, it's just a sticker, comes off easily. I think it's stocked at most places, e.g.
https://www.pinballlife.com/the-walking-dead-well-walker-decal.html
When I replaced my walker belt, I cut a strip of mylar that wraps over the belt all of the way around. It seems to be holding up very well.
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