I used to be fixed on having LCD but now a LED convert.
Using the DMD antiglare sheet and LED just looks perfect.

What is the purpose of this small solenoid relay (mod-related?) under the jet bumpers? It puts off a high pitch whine.

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El wire mod?

Installed all 4 this week. TWD,Met,Mustang and GoT. 3D printed box to block light and dust. Just noticed flash. My bad

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Any chance you’d share the STL for the box?

Not a problem. Can't do it until tomorrow. I'm just getting to work.

https://www.ulekstore.com/Bicycle_Girl_Ramp_MOD_for_Stern_s_TWD_pinball_p/clear_acrylic_twd.htm

Does anyone know who made this back panel plastic illumination mod? It lights up the flat plastic with heads on it in the back right of the playfield.

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yes.
https://mezelmods.com/collections/walking-dead-pinball-mods/products/illuminated-fish-tank-walking-dead-pro

but the real magic happens when you team up the medelmods led mod with the fish tank from the DVD boxset! if you can find it usd
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twd-season-3-limited-w-aquarium-on-sale-amazon

No this isn’t the mezel mods one. This one mounts behind the plastic and is always on. It uses some type of solenoid relay as pictured.

Edit...it seems to be an EL panel mod offered years ago by pinball refinery. It uses the inverter in one of the pics.

How do you mount the fish tank from the box set? I purchased it and never installed it. Never found a good way to secure it.

You have to make a bracket and attach it from the top or back.
See #6816 in this thread for a quick method attaching from the back of the tank.

so I'm using a tinted plastic screen that makes them spot on.

Congrats and welcome to the new member here with a modded premium including color dmd for $4500

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/109404

Not me

Yeah, that was deal of the year so far. Even at $5,500 with that ColorDMD it would have been a steal. There are pros listed higher than it, and it looks like it's in very good shape.

Maybe a typo on the sellers part?

Assuming it's even legit, seller has a thin Pinside history. If they want to complain about me saying that, it will be their first post.

Or maybe they just needed a quick sale.

In any case, I don't think everyone's TWD just went down a grand in value.

That has to be priced wrong. Congrats to whoever ends up with it.

Hi Everyone! I just purchased my first pinball, a TWD Pro! I'll be picking it up this week or next week.

I was hoping those of you who have moved this thing could offer some advice to a newbie like me?

I can get pretty much any vehicle from Enterprise at a discounted rate so I'm looking at options there. I've looked through the pinwiki and some of the newer vehicles like the RAV4 are missing so figured some others here either have these vehicles or have done this same exact thing and have advice. The minivan is definitely big enough but like others have told me it's super low which can make loading and unloading more difficult plus I will have a lot of room where it can move around during the drive which is going to be long.

I can't find any measurements of what this thing is folded up to take them to the rental car lot and start measuring to figure it out that way.

Options:

Midsize SUV (RAV4 or similar)
Standard SUV (Nissan Frontier or similar)
Standard SUV (Ford Edge or similar)
Full Size SUV (Chevy Tahoe or similar)

This will also be my FIRST pinball move. It's being loaded by someone who knows them thankfully but once I get home it's all on me and my wife to unload.

Your input would be greatly appreciated!

Check this thread here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vehicles-that-a-pinball-machine-fits-in

If your specific vehicle isn't listed, you can always search the thread for key words, or find some other outside (of pinside) dimensional data. Most "standard" size SUVs should fit (like what you have listed above). The main measurement is the height of the hatch opening to the floor should be at least 31".

To keep the wife happy among other reasons I would strongly suggest that you purchase a transmission lift table to more easily unload and to get it into your hopefully ground level house.

As suggested by another pinsider

https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-hydraulic-lift-table-94822.html

I'd just grab the minivan and take the guess work out of it, cross referencing the thread linked above is a good idea too as lots of people post their experiences. I don't find the lowness of a minivan to matter much, you're not deadlifting it out of the back straight to where it's final resting place. You're more likely sliding it out of the back where it will stand up right while you prepare your next move.

If it is truely your wife and your self doing this I hope you have a hand truck and a really strong wife... A strong friend (usually my uncle) and I hand bomb all the games into my basement down one flight of stairs... well, really we hand bomb to the top of the stairs and then slide it down the carpet. Going up is hand bombing a stair or two at a time. I really should get a hand truck.

In a pinch my wife has helped with the 80's solid state and older EM games because I can strip those pretty well, taking the head and glass and playfield out... no way in heck she'd manage the TWD down a set of stairs though even with a hand truck. If you've got no stairs to manuever then you should be able to do most of it yourself.

It’s pretty easy 1 man operation to load and unload if you do it correctly— cardboard on ground in front of back bumper. Dolly game over about 6” off bumper. Shooter side (front of game) goes in first. You just tip the game over to rest on bumper, then 1 heave ho and push into car. Exact opposite coming back out of the car. Pull it out till it’s close to balance point, then swivel down to ground and tip out of car. Hand truck the rest of the way to game room. Just make sure the head was ratchet strapped down to the body.. in case it was loaded in off a lift table.

Minivan with the seats that fold flat in the floor. That's what i have rented to pick up a pin. Super easy access through the back hatch. Only a Pin2000 won't fit unless the head is removed.

Going to miss my Connect
Even with a sub woofer against the bulkhead it fitted in perfect.
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Dont sell it

I know I’m gutted but both sides of the chassis by the rear axle has rotted from the top and the front inner sills/sills are starting to go, I’ve done 190k miles in it so had my money’s worth. Not sure if it’s worth spending a load of money as it just can’t be patched up for a proper repair plus the high mileage.
My bro-in-law passed the mot and said I’ve done you a favour

Love my Transit Custom. I can put them in without folding the back box down.

Yep she's done you proud on 190K

It’s bloody fantastic.

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I’ve had machines with out the foam. Didn’t particularly worry me. I did buy one from pinmonk when I bought his quiet fans. The foam is top quality. And those quiet fans make a huge difference if you have your machines on and not playing them. Doesn’t sound like a plane taking off now. Just peace and quiet when I’m enjoying them with a bourbon in hand.

You're right. Mine arrived yesterday and it looks great installed.

Does anyone know if Stern sells a Headphone Jack for TWD? I know they sell them for Spike 1 & 2 systems, but have seen them for Sam...

Curious what my options are for this machine.

I put this headphone kit in my TWD coin door years ago:

https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/pages/coin-door-type

Selection "E" on the linked page

Pinnovators pinpac 2 Mac headphone kit
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It allows you to control master external volume without having to open the coin door
There's a mute rocker switch to shut off external main sound when you want headphone use only
And a volume control knob for the headphone output

Direct Purchase link:

https://pinnovators.myshopify.com/collections/the-walking-dead-pro/products/pinpac2-mac_sam-headphone-kit-for-stern-sam-systems

Steve at Pinball Refinery came through for me... Love my TWD. Its in my top 3 favorite pins.

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I have one of those on my MET Pre, works great.

I’m having an issue with the Mezelmods translucent drop targets resting against the rubber behind the 3-bank set when they’re in the up position. The effect is to make it less likely that the target will drop when hit.

The targets appear to be much thicker than the original.

Has anyone else experienced this or come up with an adjustment or fix such as grinding the back down a bit?

edit...I ground the backs down a bit and now they function perfectly....
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those do look really thick and look like they are kind of opaque and the tops are rough , you can probably get by with grinding them and sanding the tops but i would get the frosted ones from pinball life or zitt, they are pretty much exact replacements , put a led strip underneath the playfield and they pop

I'm gonna be joining this club with the Pro model on Tuesday and I'm SO stoked! What pitch does everyone have their game set at? Any tips for dialing it in just right?

I have my LE pitch set at 6.5 and have the machine dropped lower to the left, maybe 4. I read a recommendation for this a long while ago and it works great for me. Rarely do I have cheap SDTM out of the pops or prison magnet.

I enjoy the Cleland sound mod with actual lines from the show, but there are other audio packages that you may want to consider as well.

Tough game, but oh so fun. Especially if you have a masochistic side.

Nice to see you coming out of a long hiatus! We met when you sold a friend the FT and T2. I picked up a pro recently and went with the option of a flipper rubber on the metal wire guide where the ball exits the pops.

I'm curious how did you attach the flipper rubber to the wire guide? Can you please share a pic?

Remove well walker body by removing the two inside Screws holding it in place for much better access..

Remove two ramp entrance screws to allow ramp to be more easily lifted for better access..

Stretch the flipper rubber (red or black or clear to preference) and push down flush with playfield.

This is not my idea but it has instantly decreased the number of sdtm balls and makes the game more enjoyable. There is no interference with Tunnel shots imo.
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Awesome! Thanks for sharing

F it, I'm tired of scratching my head over this, for weeks now. Maybe someone here knows offhand:

The manual that came with my TWD Premium seems to show the hardware for the Pro for the Bicycle Girl ramp. I don't see the mech and parts list for the raising ramp and airball protector in there anywhere. Was the premium documentation supplied as a supplement I am missing, perhaps?

Anyhow, one of the bolts that holds up the airball protector on my ramp broke off in the post beneath, at the ramp entrance. What part number is that dang post, or what are its specs? Who sells it? I can't get the broken bolt out, so it needs replacing.

Thanks!

Stick a black flipper rubber around the base of the fat well walker zombie while you're at it. Works great.

Mine always deflects of that post with a slight nudge, same as deadpool. Maybe 1 in 20 doesn't go where it can be saved?

How wide is the Tunnel shot without the flipper rubber installed? How wide is the Tunnel shot with the flipper rubber installed?

The difference between those two measurements is the interference with the Tunnel shot.

Sometimes tighter feels better.

Here is a close up picture that clarifies the near zero difference. The straightedge is resting against the post base at the ramp and the metal post (upper) at the exit of the shooter lane.

The black playfield rubber at the upper point of the ruler extends out beyond the washer at the base of the post. If the ball hits either black rubber you’ll always miss the Tunnel shot.

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