Where did you get those speaker lights/design from, love it!

http://www.speakerlightkits.com/

Hey guys! So I really want to get the most out of my shaker motor but man when it goes off, I feel like the glass is going to shatter. I’m getting a lot of rattle from the glass as well as the translite area. What is the best way to settle this down so I can enjoy the shaker and not have a heart attack every time it goes off? Thanks guys!!

You can mount it on a rubber pad or move the weight so it doesn't shake as hard.

Also, I have put some electrical tape on the top edge of the glass to reduce rattle.

From what I’ve read, shifting the weights on a Cointaker shaker won’t exactly do much. Should I go with electrical tape for best results or spend the extra few bucks and get anti rattle tape? Anybody done either of these if not both and had a comparison?

Haven't tried fancy stuff, electric tape has worked fine for me, need to use a couple pieces to get some thickness.
Been on my GoT for a couple years.

I’m currently actively trying for LMS, and have been ignoring score and prioritizing zombie kills.

One key piece of rule knowledge is that zombie kill shots that are ALSO multi-kill collects (ie, the yellow insert is lit) gives you TWO zombie kills, not one.

So, strategically, make sure to get a multikill going ASAP, and then collect as many walker kill/multi kill shots as possible. Each one brings you two kills closer.

Play WW and Prison MB focused on collecting kills or advancing to the next Blood Bath. (But do NOT stack them.)

Don’t play your first Blood Bath until you’ve played the first Prison and WW multiballs. Then, use Blood Bath to get yourself close to the next prison and WW multiball.

If you’re on a premium or LE, take full advantage of prison / walker bombs. Get one shot away from starting that multiball, then focus on nothing but walker kills until you drain, then using the bomb to save yourself and start the multiball.

You can’t collect walker kills in Horde, so have fun, but make sure to not lose your ball in Horde; time it out or “escape” to preserve your ball and go for more walker kills.

If you want to make things easier, increase the number of shots simultaneously lit for zombie kills from 4 to 5.

I started using this strat last week on a premium, and have one game with 80 kills, and two in the 70s. Getting there!

It’s going to be hard to do on a pro, without the prision and walker bombs, no matter what; good luck!

If you have a Red Tremor shaker motor that you want to tone down then please view this thread. I’ve only used this fix on SAM games. The switch is available on Amazon and is super easy to install.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/how-to-tame-cointakers-shaker-motor

I use pinball life shakers. They are the perfect amount of rumble. CT’s are insane.

My MET would shake the whole house. I tried electrical tape, and it helped a little, but became a PITA to remove the glass because it was so tight.

Someone suggested a motor speed controller from Amazon, and that worked like a charm! Easy to install and very inexpensive. I now have the shaker dialed to the perfect amount of shake.

RioRand™ Upgraded 6V-90V 15A DC Motor Pump Speed Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F839VNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_r9M-Ab51PGC9X

Depends on the shakers. Red tremors are tough, but the regular stern shakers CT sells work great.

The shaker I have from Cointaker is a regular one not a red tremor. Does this controller require any soldering or anything intricate? I am a bit of a newbie when it comes to making installations on my own. Thanks!

And also, does anybody know of any installation videos for this so I can see if this is something I can easily install myself? . Thanks to all!

Any pics of this rubber install or the anti rattle tape?

seriously you guys... do this... I did and its perfect for the red tremor or any shaker that is TOO strong... I did this on TWD:prem and its now perfect. No tape. No rattles...

as for video of install... just wire it like this... (this image was taken from the above thread as well!)

tame_shaker (resized).jpg

Guys Im having trouble with my TWD LE. I emailed Stern but no reply. The well walker multiball keeps triggering even when Im not hitting that bash toy. Do you guys have any ideas?

You need tshould adjust the well walker switch. It is making contact on its own. There are many posts here on it as well as separate threads.

No need to solder. Strip the wires and clamp down with a screw driver. Look at the diagram fxdwg posted above.

1. You would cut the two wires coming off your shaker in a spot where you have enough slack to mount or set the speed controller.

2. Strip the cut wires from the shaker and clamp them at the appropriate +/- motor terminals.

3. Use the loose wires with the connector that you cut off by stripping the ends you cut, and attach them to the appropriate +/- power terminals.

4. Plug the connector back into the game.

20180515_054455 (resized).png

I’m just nervous that I will cut or install something wrong. A video or pic by pic instructions would be the best route here but I’m sure I can figure it out if I tinker with it. Doesn’t seem difficult.

Easier solution would be to sell the CT shaker and get the Pinball Life shaker.

That is what I did!

I also only use Pinball Life shakers in my games, Red Tremors are just ridiculous, I had one in my MET for one game before returning and getting a Pinballl Life.

I like the CT shaker with the PWM board installed. It allows me to control the intensity of the shake. Win/Win.
For those that couldn't care less there are other options

But they won't bother with them, because they don't care.

Easier solution?

Remove old shaker, sell, package, ship, order new shaker, install.

or

Order speed controller, unplug shaker, snip, strip, screw, plug in shaker.

Easy is relative. I would find it easier. Plus no need to order a mod for the mod, so cheaper too.

CT should just include the board with the shaker. Does anyone actually like how much that thing shakes? It can't be good for the machine.

I understand guys are afraid to cut, strip, and connect wires. Without a basic understanding of how a circuit works, I wouldn't suggest anyone add the speed controller themselves. If the diagram fxdwg posted and the close-up pic of the controller I posted is still confusing to anyone, sell and get a new shaker.

Regarding cheaper...how much could someone get for a used CT shaker motor? New are the same price as a Pinball Life ($99). The speed controller is $12.99. Can you sell a CT shaker motor for $86 and break even?

So I decided to see how the electrical tape ideal worked out. Put it in a few we’ll placed spots around the glass and the translite. The rattle I would say is about 85-90% calmed down for sure. The shaker motor is already more enjoyable. I did order the controller yesterday so I will probably still install that as well so I can get the desired shake. Thanks all for help, I will let ya know if I need further help installing!

Love this game!!!!!

20180515_153011 (resized).jpg

I love mine also.

9F01568A-F0CA-41DD-9F71-DEACF1BFA736 (resized).jpeg

Pics? Curious to see how this looks and where you put

Got to Terminus tonight... What is the objective? I hit all shots except tunnel.

Escape Terminus
Escape Terminus is the sixth Dead Feature, which is qualified by playing all five Dead Features, and relighting them afterwards via the drops. Shoot any major Dead Feature shot to begin (they will all be flashing in unison). All five Dead Feature shots are lit for a hurry-up. Shooting a lit shot collects the hurry-up, unlights the shot, and starts a new one. Collect all five hurry-ups to finish. The initial hurry-up values are dependent on your mode scores as follows:

20% of your 5th mode score.
20% of your (5th+4th) mode score.
20% of your (5th+4th+3rd) mode score.
20% of your (5th+4th+3rd+2nd) mode score.
20% of all your combined mode scores.
To score well in this round, it is imperative that you attempt to play out your modes - especially your later ones. All Dead Features will reset and can be played again after this mode.

I did not know this ... good information

just discovered this pinball has been made for 2 purposes and not the 1 we all know already : to make you a better pinball player

it also makes you crazy ! read :

was in blood bath + WW multi, 4 balls on the PF, and than : 2 balls out in the same time, 1 left outlane, 1 right outlane, followed in the second with the 2 last balls exactly same as above !!!
but OK, save ball was just ending, than pin give me back 2 balls... few bumpers later, these 2 caming down by the right lane, second one more quickly, hit the 1st one after the lane exit, than MAGICALLY, 1 ball goes to left outlane, and of course the other one perfectly to the right outlane !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

God, pity i was not recording this ! but it happends ! 6 balls eaten perfectly same way in only few seconds...

i love this game, even if i hate it

Just FYI I installed a factory stern shaker into my Tron le and it shaked the playefield crazy , so stern recommended changing the weights on the motor so they were about 90 degrees from each other it worked fantastic much more calm but still effective

Please tell me who makes this "chicken wire" side art for TWD.

Thanks.

Chicken.wire.side.art (resized).jpg

Here you go
https://mipinballrefinery.com/store-to-order-upgrades#!/Prison-Fence-set-for-the-Walking-Dead-for-LE-Premium-Pro/p/43575240/category=10465426

Hey guys!!! Shaker motor controller is all installed on my TWD Premium! Have it set to the right amount of shake so it’s very subtle and enjoyable!!! Thanks so much to all that helped with instructions and pictures!!! Was a lot easier than I thought it would be!!!

Opinions from Owners of This PR Mod Sought:

To any of you who have this Pinball Refinery mod in your pin, I'd like to know how you like it.

It seems to introduce quite a lot of light - more, perhaps, than Pinstadium.

Also, is the "blade" portion of the mod simply mesh, or is it mesh over mirrored art?

Thanks!

Chicken.wire.side.art (resized).jpg

Thanks for this! After years of trying I finally got to LMS. I focused on lighting the multikills with zombie kills and doubled up quickly. LMS i has only 21 left and drained out. Super fun mode!!

D9513168-77DB-4505-B432-E14B509D35A9 (resized).jpeg

5E147C2F-1B65-4392-8BEF-CBA085194B64 (resized).jpeg

355EED24-47A8-4006-8356-D41D07FA78DA (resized).jpeg

821614EE-C576-4692-9C30-49AC5E0905F8 (resized).jpeg

Monster game there now!

But the important thing is that after all that, you were rewarded...
1 credit

I traded an AC/DC premium for a Pinball Refinery TWD premium that had this mod installed. It does not light up a pin like Pinball Stadium lighting. But it is definitely a cool look. The metal fencing is not attached to any type of mirror blade or art. It comes with the light up wiring zip tied to the metal fencing. The fencing must be removed any time you want to lift the playfield and then slid back in place when you put it back down.

I really loved this mod but it did not agree with my machine for some reason. A few months after I had it I noticed it wasn’t working. I looked under the playfield and found a little blue box asssociated with the mod melted. I called Pinball Refinery, who could not have been nicer, and we determined one side of the light up wiring was the problem. I paid for a replacement light up wire and all new wiring etc under neath the playfield. It was a really simple process to hook it all back up. But a few weeks later the exact same thing happened. The mod stopped working and the blue box under the playfield melted again. I took the mod off after that. Which sucks because it looks really good, but it was a pain in my ass.

014B46E1-EBD5-4305-86A5-B09BED0EED6A (resized).jpeg

I think that blue box is an inverter of some sort, they are notoriously unreliable. Not sure why he used those.

I m not typically a big mod guy. It’s not that I don’t like some of these mods. But these machines are expensive to begin with. I purposely don’t put things like color DMDs in my machines because I know I will love them and I don’t want to open up that can of worms.

The EL wire fencing looks fantastic on this pin. My pin came with it. And when it stopped working I was pretty disappointed. So I put a little effort into trouble shooting and spent about $100+ on replacement parts to get it back up and working. It failed again pretty quickly. So at this point I won’t waste any more of my time or money on it and I don’t want to bug the guys at Pinball Refinery over it either.

After 2 or 3 years I have never had an issue with my EL fence mod. I really enjoy the look of it and it is so simple to install and take off when you need to lift the playfield.