No, but that's the sign of a truly great mod when people assume it's factory. A lot of people have copied him, but I believe Joe from Laseriffic should get credit for that one.

No. Updating your gamecode to either stern’s factory 1.60 or to one of the custom mixed 1.60’s on this forum will not change anything with your colordmd software. However, you will have some very minor graphic errors with the current colordmd software after you update your game code to 1.60. Specifically in Horde mode. Colordmd will be releasing an update for this later.
Junky

yep, same for me, only happends in this case too

I got the ramp jump shot yesterday. Ended up a 2 in one... after coming around the orbit I one timed it up the arena ramp a million miles an hour, flew to the other ramp, gave me bicycle girl switch and then came flying down bicycle girl ramp and SDTM

Intense !!!

*** Struggling to Update Code on Pro ***

Hi.

At the risk of revisiting an oft-discussed subject, I can't get my board for recognize the freshly formatted USB drive with code that was downloaded directly to the drive from Stern's site. The file, as you all will remember, is apparently a BIN file. Can such a file just go straight onto the USB drive, or must I extract it first? In which case, what freeware extractor would you suggest? When I read threads about other people who have struggled with this process - for SW, for instance - they talk about "sdk" files. Is that what I have to extract from this BIN?

And if you're thinking my drive needs formatting, I have formatted this drive in all available formats, one after the other, and none has worked. I have also tried a second USB drive, from a different manufacturer, again using all three formatting schemes (exFAT, FAT, NTSI).

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Jason

I thought there was a switch you need to turn on for code to update. Thats the only thing i can think of.

Dip switch 8

Hi.

Sorry to leave that detail out: you're right, dip switch #8 must be in the on position to do this procedure, followed by a resetting of the machine, followed by the insertion of the USB, etc.

I know the sequence. I have the manual pages in front of me, as well as links to at least a few YouTube tutorials. The drive is my undoing. I don't want to drive to a computer store to buy yet another drive if I can make either of my current drives work.

J

download the pro software from sterns website - check the filename as a .BIN and NOT a underscoreBIN

copy it to the root / of your USB stick.

You don't need to do anything else...

Cheers,
Neil.

Do not look at the update procedures for another Pin. SW is based on Spike and TWD is a SAM system, completely different.

If you just placed the .BIN file on the drive and formatted in FAT32 it should work. Only thing that can be wrong is the size of the disk. It should preferably be as small as possible. I always use a 8GB Kingston drive and it has never failed yet with any machine (updated many Stern and JJP).

That's all I've done, and the drives are small - 4GB Data Traveler and an 8GB Micro Center.

I just checked, the file for the PRO on Sterns website does not need unzipping or anything. Does the Pin go to the updater screen when switch 8 is turned on ?

Yes: flipping dip switch #8 switches the pin's menu to the update sequence, first asking me to press select to reset the pin, and then prompting the insertion of the drive, etc.

I paid attention to it and X doesn't work on the outlane drain.

Have the drive inserted before you reset, not after.

Just make sure the file name is TWD160.BIN on the root file system of your memory stick.

The file name can be anything... as long as the .bin extension is there. Also should be the only file on the drive for easy install, but if you have multiple files it will allow you to select which one in the menu on the DMD.

If you’ve tried formatting in fat32 and then placing the bin file in the root of the drive, and your TWD still doesn’t recognize the file, then I suggest trying another usb stick. I had a similar problem when I first tried updating my TWD as well. I tried everything I could think of. In the end I tried a different usb stick and BAM it worked perfectly. I have no explanation as to why one brand/model worked when the other didn’t.
Good luck

I had to create a way to see the amazing translite on my pre even when the game is off, I'm gonna guess this is something many others have already done but figured id post it and now I'm gonna have to outfit all the pins this way. Simple 2' strip of green leds wired to a plugin transformer and I attached to the front of the flu bulb worked quite well, thinking WWhite might be better but when the game is on its a nice blend.

DSC03995 (resized).JPG

DSC04003 (resized).JPG

DSC04008 (resized).JPG

This^^^^

*** Aggravated by Ball Lingering in Pop Bumpers. Are There Fixes? ***

I just bought a TWD Pro. I played another example of a Pro a fair amount at my local barcade, so I understood the pops and how the ball can hang out in there for too long before it dribbles out into the area above the flippers.

Now that I have the pin in my home, I'm truly exasperated by the pops. The ball can't escape. That lowest pop bumper is like a gate keeper. Each time the ball tries to trickle past, the pop says, "Not so fast!" and sends the ball ricocheting back up into the pops for yet another bash around, etc., etc., etc.

I want to disable the pops. I hate waiting for the ball to escape from the pops. It's just too much time to stand there and watch the ball dance. I did see a game-settings menu item addressing how "hard" the pops are. Could that have anything to do with how sensitive/powerful they are? Or is that just about scoring?

Would the game's scoring be completely disrupted if I disabled the pops? Obviously I wouldn't get my pops points, but would other scoring sequences be foiled, etc? What would be the simplest way to do it? I looked at their connections beneath the PF but there are no simple connectors, only soldered leads.

I've played perhaps a hundred games and the problem isn't getting any better. What can I do? It's really turning me off.

J

I dont seem to have that problem with mine. Is it possible that your game isnt set up at a steep enough angle?

Disabling the pops will really mess with well walker multiball, since the well walker jackpot is activated by the number of switch hits. I think the first jackpot is after 25 switch hits or something like that. The pops are the best way to get these.

The pops also serve as a little respite for multiball in general, especially if you're in prison/well walker MB, and want to stack bloodbath on top of that. Having the balls in the pops will afford you an opportunity to cradle a ball and go for the drops to stack.

I'm generally not a fan of messing with things from factory settings, unless there is a huge flaw in the factory setup. In this case, waiting for 10 seconds isnt a big deal really.

The simplest way to disable them is cut the power wire going to the coil.
Do some glass-off testing with the menu item you mentioned.
You might post a video if you think your game is acting strangely.
It's your game, don't let other people tell you what to like or dislike about it.

I was just pointing out some huge gameplay aspects being affected, as he asked. He can disable the pops if he wants. Just remember to engage them again if he sells.

I know you mean well, but this is terrible advice.
The pop switches are really helpful in well walker multi ball and Riot modes.

I expect the OP just needs to ensure the game is properly levelled.

Or he could adjust the switches of the pop bumpers to be just a little bit less sensitive.

Exactly - that's what he should do. Specifically on the bottom bumper.
If it still bugs him that much he should just sell the game, as it appears it's not a good game choice for him.

Thank you, all of you, for your helpful replies.

Are you telling me an adjustment of the pops will have to come from the switches themselves, *not* from the Service Menu?

If so, just what is that setting in the menu for the pops ("Easy," "Normal," "Hard")?

FYI: the pin's pitch is set to slightly steeper than normal, but nothing crazy.

Jason

Make sure it is level left to right on the playfield, not the cabinet.

Correct. If you want the pop bumper to be less sensitive, you will need to physically adjust the switch underneath the playfield. When the ball hits the skirt, it presses down on a spoon, which in turn triggers a leaf switch. You can make the pop bumper less sensitive by slightly widening the leaf switch gap. This will give you an idea of what the mech looks like below the playfield ...

Pop Bumper (resized).jpg

Thank you, Gweem, for your photo of the pop mechanics. I addressed the switches, one by one, widening the gap, and that helped a lot. My first go 'round, I all but disabled the pops with a gap of 2.5mm. Now I'm at c. 1mm and things are a little better in terms of time lingered in the pops. SUPER helpful!

And thank you, Fox, for your suggestion re: leveling the PF, not the cab'. Got it.

Jason

I found this to be most annoying on the barn shot. Use a small piece of Velcro to change the balls trajectory. The trick is to get the size and placement just right so the ball goes past the pop but does not drain SDTM. Try it, it makes the game way faster. The only downside is you loose the ability to park balls in the pops during multiball.

IMG_20180113_105003 (resized).jpg

Also try setting your coils to "soft". MORE than enough power for home use, easier on your plastics and may also help with your pop issue.

So i decided to upgrade my membership to the TWD Premium Club. I braved a winter storm last night for 7 hour drive 30mph on the highway and howling winds. Just so i could have it for the weekend. Pics incoming. Got my first game in on it after set up and wow. The light show alone is worth the upgrade.

PS ---Any helpful hints on scoring. Like how to use walker bombs. How you get walker bombs. And how many you get etc. Also where to shoot the crossbow>?

Read through this. It explains a lot ...

http://tiltforums.com/t/walking-dead-wiki-rulesheet/122

Has anyone ever made metal aprons for the premium/LE version?
I would really like to get one to replace the crappy plastic

Congrats as it's a keeper. Good choice. I don't think we need any more stock pics though as there are 3 years of them up here. Save a server that's running on diesel-powered electricity

All of the talk of air balls recently reminded I'd been seeing a few more than usual. Can't say I've ever seen flipper rubber wear like this... Maybe I play it too much...

MVIMG_20180114_134626 (resized).jpg

MVIMG_20180114_134525 (resized).jpg

I got a game with a topper already installed on it. Trying to take the backglass off to update the code and the lock seems to be getting stuck on something/won't unlock/move. Has anyone else run into this issue before?

LOL was just using the wrong keys boy am I dumb no wonder I can't crack 500mil. Can't wait for the new code to install.

At least you didn’t force it and break the key off in the lock and then have to drill it out. I can’t say the same.

ouch!

Anyone have pictures or instructions on how to hook up the topper?

Hi Ron,

The following video from Pinball Supernova may prove useful.

Gord

Thanks Gord

Anyone know if the color dmd guys are going to update the code to align with 1.6 firmware?

It's updated. It's not on the Colordmd site yet.

I remember you from Vpforums/Universe days.
Good to hear.

*** Source for Replacement Star Rollover Switches? ***

Hi.

Speaking to a tech at Stern today I learned that my star rollover switches in my TWD Pro need to be replaced. I'm disappointed, naturally, but better to just replace them and move on. So, my first impulse was to check Pinball Life, Pinball Resource, and Marco to find replacements.

Nothing doing!

I'm thinking that some of you have had bad star rollover switches in your TWD's in the past and might have been in this position. If so, where did you get your replacements if not from a Stern distributor?

Part number is 520-6824-18.

Thanks.