Multikills are what lights the weapons. There are about a dozen ways to start a multikill. Typically making three or four shots towards a specific goal will start one.

You have to fill 3 fish tanks. You complete a fish tank by filling it and then hitting the Woodbury shot. Or if you fill a fish tank and drain a ball, it will register as well. The points for completing the tanks is atrocious but it's all working towards something bigger!

I have this sometimes too, i thought it might be related to the switch the door assembly that is triggered to early du to... i dunno... vibration or something?

Listed my nice pro on the MP in the event anyone wants to join the club....

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/53226

Yeah not sure. Glass off testing is in order here I think.

Well, I thought I was joining the club today with a NIB pro arriving, but tracking shows it won't be delivered until Tuesday. I thought I was going to have a full three-day weekend to play around with it!

Ghostbusters left the building tonight, tomorrow I should officially be joining the club!

Bummer! It's a great game. I'm sure you'll love it once you get it. Congrats on the NIB!

Can't believe that I waited so long to pick up TWD! Here's mine...

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I can't believe you waited so long either. Welcome to the club!

450 mile roadtrip this morning and I am now in the club. Thanks Chris and Melissa at Cointaker.

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Be sure to hold on to your MET! Miss mine...
Great 2 game collection.

Nice pin choices!

anyone know anything about the final order? Apparently they won't be make many more?

It doesn't show on Sterns site as last call, like previous games coming to the end of their licencing/production have in the past.?

On MET they renewed/extended the license. They might do the same if TWD is still selling well.

I ordered a pro last week, and it's arriving tomorrow (hopefully).

Pro is on last call, another batch of premiums will be made in oct

Pro is last call for Walking Dead or MET?

Twd

So how much time is left when that happens?

If anyone is thinking about buying a brand new TWD pro save hundreds as I'm selling one that is literally like new condition. Pm me if interested.

This was posted in the TWDLE Bicycle Girl Light thread. Get this light if you don't have it already. PM Gnassel.

I have nothing to do with this other than spreading the info.

This was supposed to be delivered to me on Friday the 1st, but it got shipped a day later than planned. Wiith the holiday weekend, delivery was delayed until today. However, they said they were "too busy" to deliver today, so I drove the one hour to pick it up myself!

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You are going to have a blast!

Enjoy. Rather than waiting a week or more for mine, I opted to drive 7 hours round trip to pickup mine the morning after ordering it Well worth the drive. I am loving the game.

If I had done that, it would have been a 30-hour round trip!

The things we do for our addiction! I would do the same though....slackers can never drop them off when agreed upon.

Those talking about changing the magnet, are we talking about the magnetic coil or the plug? I see no way to separate the plug from this plate-like piece

The core unscrews out of the circular plate. That's what you replace the cylinder core. But I just took borg's advice and rotated it a quarter turn. I'm getting way less sdtms now. Enough so that I've turned the magnet back on. Left it off for a while.

I've tried a few turns and still the same thing. I guess I need a vice to get this thing out it is not budging!

I've tried turning the core and the magnet and it really didn't help in my case. The best luck I've had is alternating flipper button presses when the animation starts, then the magnet actually flings the ball around (most of the time).

The way I see it, Stern should be able to send out a small code update to fix this quite easily. One should include pulsing the magnet randomly, EVERY TIME when it's time to throw the ball, and another should include a 2-3 second ball save afterwards. It really is frustrating to have it go STDM during a really good ball, and at times completely out of your control.

I don't understand. If you can turn that magnet core, you should be able to complete unscrew it. Did you take the nut off first? Also. Not a few turns. I took mine from noon to like 2-3 o'clock. That helped. Not perfect, but before it was 100% sdtm every time.

Oh i got the magnet out but that large washer-like assembly won't come off the core and I didn't see anywhere to order it assembled.
And by a few turns I do mean a few directions as in not full turns.

Okay. Hmm. After I took the nut off I was able to unscrew the core from the disk shaped powered magnet. Not sure what else you can try, except a big ass strong flat head screwdriver.

Also had this issue (skillshot being cancelled when the prison doors open). Was being lazy and hoping someone would follow up on this in this thread, but I got tired of waiting around and decided to troubleshoot it myself.

Went into switch test mode and started banging the PF... no luck. Started mucking around with the prison doors and noticed that the zombie head in the prison was being triggered by the doors opening. I had previously gapped the zombie head switch obscenely tight to ensure that it triggered when hit. But, after doing the velcro fix (thanks Wurt!) the switch no longer needs to be set to hair trigger. Added a bit more gap for the zombie head switch and it resolved my skillshot issue, and the zombie head still registers nicely on direct hits. Huzzah!

Thanks, and makes sense could another switch hit would kill the skill shot sequence

I looked through the pics gallery for this thread, but I didn't see any other pics of this. Has anyone else replaced their flipper bats with the SS boney flippers?

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Yep! I did that with mine, but with red Superbands. I think I might like that black better...

Is there anything to replace the Bicycle Girl sign?

Those with the stern topper - question:

I've removed mine and I believe it originally came with a board that you need to install and then plug a little orange plug from topper to board. Problem is I can't seem to get this little board out. I removed the 4 nuts but the board seems like it's glued (or has plastic e lock style c's around the metal).

Do these boards come standard now and if not, how can I get this thing out of my machine? The topper has already been removed.

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Not that I'm aware but both it and the similarity terrible looking fish tank/crossbow plastic sign are both begging for modded upgrades/replacements

I tried that on my LE but I had to modify the flippers so they would not hit the Crossbow. I took a grinder to the bottom side of each flipper so they were a tad shorter than normal. It worked but I was getting air-balls almost consistently due to the flipper striking the ball too low. I wish it would have worked out because I think the boney finger flippers look great on TWD.

If I remember correctly, it was a pain in the butt to get that board installed on the 4 mounting studs, it was a VERY tight fit. From the picture it looks like the only thing holding the board in place is the plastic spacer/bushing on each stud. If the studs are threaded into T-nuts, put 2 nuts on each stud, lock them together and try unscrewing them a couple turns at a time on each one. Once you get all 4 studs out you should be able to hold the spacer and unscrew each stud from the spacer.

thanks. I was able to get those off by getting those plastic pieces off. It was a PIA

Those flippers look set quite high. Do you have trouble shooting the right ramp and Woodbury shot ?

That pic was taken before I finished aligning, adjusting, and tightening.

Hey guys . . . I need a little help here. Some time back in this thread I mentioned that I built my own fish tank topper and wired some LED's in it, tied to the GI and a flasher socket. While soldering to the flasher I 'broke' my pin. It stopped working. One of you mentioned to check all the fuses, which I did and yes . . . that was the problem. I replaced the fuse and the pin worked perfectly. I wired one 5-string of LED's to the GI, and one 5-string set of LED's to the left flasher on the PF. It all worked.

After playing and testing my pin with the new lights in the fish tank, I noticed that after awhile I could see smoke coming from the tank. I lifted the wires and they were VERY hot. I quickly turned the pin off and determined that this wasn't going to work (they were pulling too much 'juice'), so I took the wiring off and scrapped that idea.

After I de-soldered the wires from the GI and flasher, I had the same problem of the pin not working. Checked that same fuse and yes, it had burnt. I replaced it and the pin once again it played correctly. HOWEVER, the lamp in the left flasher stays on all the time now and will not flash nor go out. I've checked all the fuses and everything else works fine.

I had a Pinside 'teckie' to visit this weekend who is a whiz at Williams pins, but he told me this TWD was a different kind of 'animal', he wasn't familiar with its structure, and guessed that I probably burnt a 'board' and would need to replace it. He wasn't real sure about that either.

Question to you guys . . . what do these 'boards' look like? Is this a very small, isolated board that is wired to or next to that flasher? Surely, he is not talking about a big board in the backbox?!

Any comments appreciated.
Mike in Kentucky

I'm officially not a tech, so anyone with more info, please chime in.

1) You saw smoke because you are tapped into voltage that is too high for your leds (flashers usually pull 20v; leds are either 5v or 12v).

2) Your flasher is stuck on because you blew a transistor (and possibly pre-transistor) on the driver board. That's the easy answer, but I'm not sure if the SPIKE system is set up in this way. Your tech would have known that, but if he says this is a "different kind of animal," maybe it's set up differently.

3) While soldering, you may have caused a short, causing these problems.

4) You can get free tech help through Stern at 1-800-kickers, even if it's your own fault. Start by telling them you have a stuck flasher and go from there. No need to tell them the history of how you got there. They'll proceed from there on how to fix the stuck flasher.

Pretty sure flashers are 12v in TWD and the game is SAM not Spike. I think the locked on flasher is a bad transistor.

Oops, you're right. Last SAM, correct? I played a SPIKE TWD at the Banning show when it was first introduced, but STERN waited until WWE to introduce SPIKE. Is that correct?