(Topic ID: 146522)

TSPP speaker hum/buzz *Fixed*

By sed6

8 years ago


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  • 99 posts
  • 55 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by sllerts
  • Topic is favorited by 98 Pinsiders

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sb133 pg2.pdf (PDF preview)
sb133 pg1.pdf (PDF preview)
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tspp mod schematic (resized).jpg
tspp resistor install (resized).jpg
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There are 99 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 7 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I would assume this works with an lotr? Has anyone needed/used this mod on it?

Yes, i did. Works great for lotr too.

#52 7 years ago

Thanks sed6. I received my set very fast and they work as described. It was great to see a useful product for a reasonable price.

#53 7 years ago

I saw this and thought these would be pretty simple to make. But $10 shipped? Forget that, set ordered. Thanks sed6.

#54 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

I got the connectors today, but my board, which is original from 2003 looks a little different. R110 is not at the top and is down below next to 106. Am I still good to make the connections. Just want to be sure since the instructions show a different picture.

So my lotr board looks like this too. I put them on 106 and 110. I guess my hum wasn't too bad because I can't tell to much difference except it lowered the main volume a lot (so I turned it up).

2 weeks later
#55 7 years ago

Thanks all. Glad everyone's having luck with these. Auctions ended. I won't be making any more for a while. I'm going to post up my instructions that I include with each set. They and the video is all anyone who endeavors to needs to make and install some.

#56 7 years ago

Keep making them, great mod!

#57 7 years ago

I'd buy some if still available.

#58 7 years ago
Quoted from sed6:

Lots of speaker hum threads here and none seem to show a good fix. My TSPP has been humming in attract mode since day one. Of course it's not noticible during play, but when the room's quite the hum or buzz drives me nuts. Some reading here and some googlefoo lead to to RGP where there are several fixes, some dating back 12-13 years. I went with the adjustable pot mod and this completely eliminated my speaker hum. Check out the vid below for how I did it and the see (hear) the results.
» YouTube video

Very nice. What gauge wire did you use for the red and black wire?

4 weeks later
#59 6 years ago

Here's the instructions I promised.

tspp resistor install (resized).jpgtspp resistor install (resized).jpg

tspp mod schematic (resized).jpgtspp mod schematic (resized).jpg

#60 6 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Very nice. What gauge wire did you use for the red and black wire?

22ga from Amazon.
Remington Industries 22UL1007STRBLA UL1007 22 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire, 300V, 0.0253" Diameter, 100' Length, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NB3U2BU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lxg1yb30HA2QM

6 months later
#61 6 years ago

Made up a set today and it worked great, the humm was driving us bonkers! Clips only slide on one way so make sure to bend the wire on the bigger side or it will not snap up good.

1 month later
#62 6 years ago

Has anyone tried this in Star Trek Pro?

#63 6 years ago

I don't get the hum in my ST Pro like I do TSPP...you do?

#64 6 years ago

I don't get a hum with my ST Pro. I did do this mod on my Stern NFL and it helped immensely.

#65 6 years ago

It's not nearly as loud as TSPP but it's got a buzz... TSPP and DESW used to have a noise contest but after pin2dmd and RasPiSound Star Wars is silent.

Ordering one for TSPP thought I'd give it a shot. Any guidance on where it goes in ST would be much appreciated

#66 6 years ago

I put a PinSound in my TSPP, now not only is the HUUUMMMMMMMM BUZZZZZZZ gone but I have SWEET sound!

#67 6 years ago

Serious question, not trying to be a jerk... is it really better sound? I think TSPP sounds pretty good already (sans the buzz)...good bass, clear and good sounding call outs etc...

DESW is lo-fi at the source and kinda corny compared to OST

#68 6 years ago

I upgraded the speakers too, but yes no hum/buzzz and IMO sounds better

2 months later
#69 6 years ago

I just finished trying out this mod, and it did lower the hum a lil bit, but i'm still getting quite a bit of hum, adjusting the pots doesn't seem to lower or raise the hum. When i remove the pot from R110, that's when i hear the hum increase, when i remove the pot from R106, nothing changes. I'm wondering if it's maybe my transformer, I tried hitting the top of it like some mention, but that doesn't seem to do anything.

#70 6 years ago

Make sure it’s not the transformer for the fluorescent tube that buzzing.

#71 6 years ago

I bought 2, one for TSPP and one for my noisy Star Trek Pro. TSPP worked as it was supposed to but turned out I didn't need one for STP because my fluorescent light was buzzing like a bee. Led kit cured that one, now the whole collection barely makes a peep (if Big Guns didn't hum...). So, pop the light out and see what happens!

#72 6 years ago
Quoted from pintechev:

Make sure it’s not the transformer for the fluorescent tube that buzzing.

The hum/buzz is coming through the speakers and sub though.

2 years later
#73 3 years ago

This fix still works great. I made some for my T3 and couldn’t be happier.

#74 3 years ago

Anybody tried it on a data east? I *think* JP is the same boards and same issue.

#75 3 years ago

I've just done it on Goldeneye. It was with a brand new rottendog mpu that had so much static it was silly. Just put a pot across R110 and set to about 3.8k and it took most of it away

2 months later
#76 3 years ago

Did this today and it worked like a charm. Thank you.

8 months later
#77 2 years ago

Just wanted to stop by and say thanks for this post. I just did this to my TSPP and it is amazing to have that hum gone.

5 years going and still a great tutorial.

I still wonder if this would work on the DE hum...

#78 2 years ago

Used on VND years ago and it helped.

#79 2 years ago

Glad to see this modification lives on and is still being used! I wrote the original write-up 20 years ago and had it hosted on the Paisley site (post #5) but seems to be no longer active. I'm sure a Google search might still find it buried somewhere.

I like the clips and pot idea. I never thought of that when I modified my Monopoly when I bought it NIB in 2001. That Whitestar board just had too much gain in the amp section for my sanity. I'm glad people took and ran with my fix and helped others out.

#80 2 years ago
Quoted from EricHadley:

I put a PinSound in my TSPP, now not only is the HUUUMMMMMMMM BUZZZZZZZ gone but I have SWEET sound!

I would have gone the Pinsound route, but after looking on their site, the only soundtrack for my Whitestar machines I have are the ORIGINAL, so I am going to solder in a dime's worth of resistors into R106/110 this weekend and save $350 on the pinsound for whitestar kit. Not as elegant, or fun, but an OK plan.

#81 2 years ago

My pinsound TsPP package is awesome. Highly recommend it.

#82 2 years ago
Quoted from Scandell:

My pinsound TsPP package is awesome. Highly recommend it.

I have Ripley’s and ROllercoasteTycoon. Neither have an updated soundtrack....

8-(

8 months later
#83 2 years ago

Just applied this to my The Simpsons Pinball Party and Lord of the Rings and it is glorious. I love that it gives some amount of control over being able to adjust the audio mix. For my Lord of the Rings , I was able to dial it in to where the callouts really stand out more now too. All without that damned buzz. Thanks to everyone who wrote up the guides and found the original fix.

1 month later
#84 2 years ago

Does anyone sell this kit? I have zero soldering experience and would be much easier if I can just buy this setup.

Thx

2 weeks later
#85 2 years ago

Anyone else have a different bird where the resistors are right beside each other?

DF7C7E14-2D25-4F9F-988E-C16FEC6889F1 (resized).jpegDF7C7E14-2D25-4F9F-988E-C16FEC6889F1 (resized).jpeg
1 month later
#86 1 year ago
Quoted from PinPickle:

Anyone else have a different bird where the resistors are right beside each other?[quoted image]

It was mentioned earlier on this post I believe by Lermods.

I think you can also replace the resistor to increase resistance. I would prefer a permanent fix rather than the clip on.

7 months later
#87 1 year ago

The permanent fix is either add a extra resistor of 5k ohm on the other resistor or replace the current one 5k ohm with I think 10k ohm. As this clip on fix makes it also 10k ohm. But I think it might be best to use the clip-on to check what ohm you really need as you might need to dial it in a bit as adding 5k ohm might not be enough or to much for your issue.

I just installed it myself and it works great to mitigate most of the buzz so I might need to add more resistance to clean up the sound some more. But it much much better.

Tnx to sed6 for solving this issue and make simple solution to this issue.

To completely eliminate the issue you have to use a pinsound board it will come in the future but it is really expensive and a whole new rabbit hole of options. But for me this is for now enough to solve the issue.

#88 1 year ago
Quoted from mezzin:

The permanent fix is either add a extra resistor of 5k ohm on the other resistor or replace the current one 5k ohm with I think 10k ohm. As this clip on fix makes it also 10k ohm. But I think it might be best to use the clip-on to check what ohm you really need as you might need to dial it in a bit as adding 5k ohm might not be enough or to much for your issue.
I just installed it myself and it works great to mitigate most of the buzz so I might need to add more resistance to clean up the sound some more. But it much much better.
Tnx to sed6 for solving this issue and make simple solution to this issue.
To completely eliminate the issue you have to use a pinsound board it will come in the future but it is really expensive and a whole new rabbit hole of options. But for me this is for now enough to solve the issue.

The resistor circled in the pic above is 10K. Adding another 10K across it would reduce the overall resistance to 5K. Is this what you are trying to achieve?

I most certainly would NEVER use alligator clips to hold wires in place - it's just not good practice for many reasons.

2 weeks later
#89 1 year ago

Yes you are right alligator clips are normally for temp stuff. But after my experience try before make it permanent.

So after 1 week I removed it as in the later levels the sound got slowed and distorted. And it fixed not enough of the buzz for my machine. So next up is a pinsound module but that is for a later time.

#90 1 year ago

Stern addressed this with service bulletin #133 for Monopoly, a Stern Whitestar board set from 2001. The fix for TSPP is identical. If you can't solder, I'm sure you know someone who can!

sb133 pg1.pdfsb133 pg1.pdf

sb133 pg2.pdfsb133 pg2.pdf

5 months later
#91 10 months ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Stern addressed this with service bulletin #133 for Monopoly, a Stern Whitestar board set from 2001. The fix for TSPP is identical. If you can't solder, I'm sure you know someone who can!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Those updated resistors listed in the Monopoly bulletin are the ones they used in TSPP from the factory. It must not have taken care of the issue. I'm considering soldering up some more of these Resistor Potentiometers if anyone is interested.

#92 10 months ago
Quoted from Belvedere:

Those updated resistors listed in the Monopoly bulletin are the ones they used in TSPP from the factory. It must not have taken care of the issue. I'm considering soldering up some more of these Resistor Potentiometers if anyone is interested.

I'd be interested

2 weeks later
#93 9 months ago

.

1 week later
#94 9 months ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Very nice. Wonder if this can be done on data east machines like my jurassic park.

Was this ever confirmed to work with DE games? My JP is pretty hummy.

#95 9 months ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Was this ever confirmed to work with DE games? My JP is pretty hummy.

No, DE boards and SEGA (whitestar) boards are very differents.

#96 9 months ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Was this ever confirmed to work with DE games? My JP is pretty hummy.

Pinball Life sells the Rottendog Buzz Buster which can help on later Data East games.

2 months later
#97 7 months ago

I'm still making these if anyone needs them in the future. Direct message me please

1 week later
#98 6 months ago

Has anyone looked at the schematics and done the math to understand the "fix"? I thought I understood amps, but what I'm figuring doesn't make sense. In the Monopoly game, both R106 and R110 are a 22K resistors. By making R110 a 33K resistor you are increasing the amplification for speaker 3(cabinet) and by changing R106 to a 10K resistor you are reducing the amplification for speaker 2 (back box). I don't understand why they are increasing the amplification on one and reducing on the other, seems like you would want to reduce both.

Quoted from mezzin:

The permanent fix is either add a extra resistor of 5k ohm on the other resistor or replace the current one 5k ohm with I think 10k ohm. As this clip on fix makes it also 10k ohm.

You are clipping a 5K resistor in parallel with a 5K resistor, the new value of the combined resistors is 2.5K, not 10K.

6 months later
#99 6 days ago
Quoted from mDarcShadow:

Has anyone looked at the schematics and done the math to understand the "fix"? I thought I understood amps, but what I'm figuring doesn't make sense. In the Monopoly game, both R106 and R110 are a 22K resistors. By making R110 a 33K resistor you are increasing the amplification for speaker 3(cabinet) and by changing R106 to a 10K resistor you are reducing the amplification for speaker 2 (back box). I don't understand why they are increasing the amplification on one and reducing on the other, seems like you would want to reduce both.

You are clipping a 5K resistor in parallel with a 5K resistor, the new value of the combined resistors is 2.5K, not 10K.

I tried this fix with my TSPP which already had R110 at 33K (parallel 5K pot makes it around 4.3K) and R106 at 10K (parallel 5K pot makes it 3.3K) and I think it worked with the backbox speakers but not the sub. Adjusting the pot up to 10K for R110 (effective 7.6K) doesn't help. I'm wondering if for the sub the effective resistance needs to be higher than is possible with the parallel 10K pot.

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