Btw---yellow powder-coat looks awesome. I'm jealous. I may have to have that done, someday.
I'd like to see more pics of it. How many pieces did you have powder-coated?
Quoted from sillyoldelf:I'm not taking anymore requests at the moment
lol, reminds me of Ringo, Peace and love, no more requests! glad I got mine in:
Quoted from sillyoldelf:Thanks guys for the feedback. The moes tavern decal for the back of the machine does look a good idea as I don't like what stern have done there anyway.
Would you be thinking a direct copy of the scene based on that mod that would replace the original stern sticker?
If you were to do another decal for the back it might be cool to incorporate Duffman somehow or this pic, tons of options but based on what you have already shown us I'm sure you will make the right decision.
image.jpg
Quoted from PW79:I'm in
Any chance you feel like making a super sweet Moe's Tavern decal for the back?
Like this one (two examples in thread)
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/heres-a-moes-tavern-lenny-and-carl-mod-you-never-envisioned#post-1207512
Might as well right?
That was me saying "in"
Quoted from Nepi23:Did you use felt-strips or did you apply the decals without them? I bought the LOTR-decals from pinballcenter.eu and they came without the felt-strips, so I am wondering whether I should purchase them separately.
I don't like the felt strips. Makes the playfield too tight,and ended up trashing my TZ decals when I put them in. I just make sure I lift the playfield squarely when doing anything so no scrathes made.
My long suffering partner helped me make some tutorials for fitting the decals. She says if anybody wants to pay for a 1st class ticket over to the states and a couple of weeks in a hotel, she'll gladly come out and fit them.
Seriously, they are quite easy to do, even though Stern added some blocks of wood at the back to make life fun.
Before installation of decals, I like to check the playfield raises and lowers easily without catching or scraping along the sides. I rubbed the side edges of the playfield down with some light sandpaper to make sure they were smooth and checked no metal or wires were sticking out - there shouldn't be anyway. You have a few mills clearance each side so as long as you don't try to put the playfield back in at an angle, there is no problem with decals.
First raise the playfield right out by balancing on the front - don't forget to remove your balls!
Next start at the back of the machine and line up the decal - remember it is going to bend round the wood and be cut in place. You don't have to stick the whole sticker down yet, so leave some of the sticker backing on and just press down lightly halfway to the front until you have the back sorted.
Now take a very sharp knife and using the bottom of the block of wood as a guide, cut a line to allow the decal to wrap round. Once that's all lined up, you can work back down the machine to the front. When everything looks good, give it a rub down with a soft cloth. As they are laminated, you can always wipe them down if need be with a dry cloth - shouldn't need any cleaner.
Remember to carefully lower the playfield down straight when you've fitted the decals as anything sharp - like a splinter of wood or something sharp will cut them.
"First raise the playfield right out by balancing on the front - don't forget to remove your balls!"
Maybe this is a dumb question, but I've never had my playfield looking like that. That is, I lift it up on its rails, but this looks like it is essentially completely out of the cabinet. How the heck you do that? Isn't it heavy as sin?
Quoted from balloukevin:"First raise the playfield right out by balancing on the front - don't forget to remove your balls!"
Maybe this is a dumb question, but I've never had my playfield looking like that. That is, I lift it up on its rails, but this looks like it is essentially completely out of the cabinet. How the heck you do that? Isn't it heavy as sin?
Maybe i should explain better. You slide it up to first position - so it clicks ready to be tipped back and the metal is balance on the lockbar. Instead of tipping back to rest on the backbox. Just grab the playfield underneath at the rear - just use fingers and avoid any wiring etc. Then you can lift it up and right up carefully balancing on the front lockbar. It's not too bad weight wise once you have it just above level as it balances itself.
We tried sliding forwards, installing part of the decals, then tipping back to rest on backbox and installing the rest but it is so much easier this way if you can get someone to hold it while you install. I think it is only way to do it actually because you don't want to be lifting and lowering playfield until they are fully stuck down.
I guess you could remove them but then there would be a big hole between back and sides I think. I presume Stern put them on to close the gap in the corners. They looked to be glued and screwed also so it might cause more damage taking them off.
Quoted from balloukevin:Maybe this is a dumb question, but I've never had my playfield looking like that.
Steve Ritchie showed me how to do it that way with Spidey in 2007. Makes shopping and replacing bulbs easier.
Quoted from luch:aren't those little blocks of wood removable and not really needed ?
I was going to ask the same thing. Anyone know for sure?
The blocks are removable per a few threads where owners installed mirror blades
I don't feel comfortable removing them however due to the glue/nails
How is the adhesion to the cabinet? Not applying these before would it benefit from a light sand to ensure adhesion or is this not necessary?
Quoted from jardine:How is the adhesion to the cabinet? Not applying these before would it benefit from a light sand to ensure adhesion or is this not necessary?
No need to sand cabinet. They stick well. In fact the glue is perfect as it allows some repositioning/peel back before a good firm press down. Even then they come off again without too much trouble and don't seem to leave any residue. I've stuck about 8 sets on my TSPP with all the alignment checks and messing about without issue.
I guess you could sand the cabinet sides lightly before as there are little imperfections that come from factory or maybe your machine has suffered some cabinet damage during its life. It is worth checking because my machine was virtually nib when I got it and hadn't been out on site so cabinet was perfect.
Quoted from Nepi23:Does that lifting trick work with Williams' pinball machines?
Nope. Different "click/lock" system
TZ and STTNG are particularly a bugger to remove
Quoted from John_in_NC:OK 3 sets for jrawlinson_2000
Nooooo, it was my damn iPad!!
I just need the 1
What is the cost, including to shipping, to the States?
Here in the States these are available through Joey at Pinball Decals for 150 (USD). Not sure if it would be cheaper then having to order them from the UK http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/SimpsonsPinballParty_Page.html#
Quoted from meSz:Here in the States these are available through Joey at Pinball Decals for 150 (USD). Not sure if it would be cheaper then having to order them from the UK http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/SimpsonsPinballParty_Page.html#
Those were not listed on that site three weeks ago, or I would have bought them while ordering their target decals. Interesting. I'm glad they weren't available... I notice quite a few differences. I don't think the ones selling for $149 look any better. I don't know about the rest of you, but I can hardly wait for my set from Dan.
I think Dan's are much better. I'm very excited as well! Dan's are cheaper shipped as well! (PM him for cost).
This is his first MOD and I think it's awesome!
Quoted from meSz:What is the cost, including to shipping, to the States?
Here in the States these are available through Joey at Pinball Decals for 150 (USD). Not sure if it would be cheaper then having to order them from the UK http://www.pinballdecals.com/PartsByGamePages/SimpsonsPinballParty_Page.html#
Screw PDI and their blatant price gouging (check out the MM toilet paper holder / topper thread)
I'd rather give the business to the original poster (i.e. the source) any day! Plus, I'm sure they'll be significantly cheaper.
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