(Topic ID: 50801)

The Simpsons Pinball Party (TSPP) Owners Club..... Members Only!!!

By kwiKimart

10 years ago


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#3746 5 years ago

Picking up my TSPP TONIGHT! SO FREAKING EXCITED! Already seen a lot of great add-ons and fixes on here, looking forward to chatting about the game and problems that arise lol

#3748 5 years ago

I just got my machine. It’s running code 2.0. Does ball save exist in this code?

#3753 5 years ago
Quoted from Fizz:

I have no idea if it exists in that version, but just wanted to mention that the setting you are looking for is called "freeze time". I have no idea why they named it that.

Thanks! I found that. I was wondering where the option was. Before turning that on, a few times the ball would go back into the shooter lane, i was expecting it to auto fire, but it didnt. Does the auto fire only work on Ball Save? Ive only played this table virtually so idk what the real experience should be haha.

Also, should there be a loud BRRRRZZZZZZZ when the ball releases from the TV? That was in my virtual cab, but not on this one. I think i need to update the roms to 5.0

Oh and one more thing...the cabinet i got, the OP replaced the batteries with a lithium cell battery...ok to leave that for now? I was planning on NVRAM update, but if the lithium is ok, ill just leave that for now.

#3772 5 years ago

So I just found a pretty nasty bug in my version 2.07. I know i need to update to 5.0. But i didnt see this issue listed in any of the change logs.

Can someone try this on 5.0 and see if its an issue?

If you light every single TV mode on a single ball, the game will crash and reboot.

1 week later
#3779 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

Just installed an OCD board in my game to go along with the new LEDs and what a difference! The fading effects of the lights is so much smoother. Definitely worth the money!
And then I had my best game! Over 45 minutes and got to see pretty much every mini wizard mode. Unfortunately, I couldn't complete half of them!
172M... Not great compared to some of the scores I see people put up, but it's definitely my best thus far!

Nice! My high is on extra easy lol....78M, I had a 98M game going strong and the game rebooted mid ball

#3784 5 years ago
Quoted from Damien:

That sucks! Had that happen once to my on TZ. also had a crappy thing happened the other day when I was playing Metallica. My son came to talk to me and I held the flipper that eventually burned out the transistor! Had one of my best balls going to haha.

That sucks! im always afraid of burning something out when i hold the flipper too long. Luckily havent had that happen yet. My upper right flipper buzzes really loud, even after tighting up everything and replacing the coil with another one i had laying around, so that loud buzz makes me feel like something is gonna blow lol.

regarding the reboot, im not sure what the cause of it was yet. some reason, if I get on the upper play field and activate 6 modes on the TV everything works, but as soon as I activate that last mode, the game reboots. Idk if its the code or what. Im currently on CPU 2.07, but my 5.0 roms come today. Im hoping the 5.0 roms fix this issue. Im guessing on that 98M ball, I had 6 modes active and then the 7th was activated on multiball by chance.

I guess the way to fix it is turn off extra easy mode

2 weeks later
#3804 5 years ago

You are missing the 1-way wire gates at the bumpers and the shooter lane. and a few posts

#3813 5 years ago
Quoted from BioBa:

I did but I could not see this post configuration?

The post has a thick sleeve at the bottom and a ring on the top. They will come in replacement rubber kits.

#3821 5 years ago
Quoted from catboxer:

Any recommendations on who to buy a 5.0 eprom/sound/display romset from? I throught John Wart Jr, but it seems he's not an option anymore...
If I'm upgrading from 4.0, do I only need Display and CPU? Or also sound? Thanks!

I just updated from 2.0 to 5.0 all you need is the Display and CPU ROM. I bought mine from Matt's Basement here on Pinside. $20 + shipping total.

#3831 5 years ago

My ball constantly jumps out of the monorail. Ive tried adjusting it, the screw, the machine is level, but sometimes it still flies out and goes right down the right outlane. i just live with it now

#3835 5 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Bend the wireform just a little where it falls out.

Yea ive tried. I just cant figure it out. I read all the troubleshooting stuff I could find on here. I thought i had it figured out, then it jumped out again. lol.

#3852 5 years ago

Ill have to try the washers then. Mine is jumping off at the same spot, im level with the stock bubble, using an adjustable, its between 6-7 degrees so i think its right where it needs to be. Game plays great other than the occasional drain caused from the monorail fall.

2 weeks later
#3883 5 years ago
Quoted from Maken:

It's not that much harder. LOTR requires a perfectly timed DTR to reach Valinor, TSPP does not care about timing.
5 supers isn't that ridiculous, play a couple of multiballs and you should be near 5.
Plenty of other modes to play and things to shoot for too, optional depth is not a reason to slag a machine.

I usually don't agree with Penguins fans

#3888 5 years ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

As long as you're not a Caps fan then we can all be friends

C-A-P-S CAPS CAPS CAPS!

Back to TSPP

4 weeks later
#3912 5 years ago

Grew up watching the Simpsons since the first episode. Watched all the next episodes until around 2000 or so. I watched so many of the episodes over and over during the evening lineup of Simpsons and either Seinfeld/Friends every week night. FXX is usually always on in my house if I’m not watching a hockey game

#3917 5 years ago

Replace the switch. I broke mine trying to adjust it, its being held together with tape until i make a parts purchase. Seems to work better now though haha

#3921 5 years ago

Ran into an issue this morning.

Played a few games of TSPP before work, and in the middle of the 3rd game, my right main flipper died completely. I have read up on the issue and its likely caused by:

1) Bad wire connection
2) Blown Fuse
3) Bad Transistor Q15 or Q16 (cant remember which side is which)
4) Bad Coil (which is rare apparently) or maybe a diode

I didnt have time to pull the glass and lift the PF this morning, but i was able to move the flipper manually from the coin door, so im ruling out anything physical.

I guess my only real question really is how can I test a coil to see if its bad? Checking the voltage while power is on?

I've been wanting to rebuild the flippers anyway, they play ok, but the machine was routed when i got it, so I want them to be new. But id rather not spend $100 on coils I don't need.

#3923 5 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

The flipper switches are known for being flaky. Try cleaning the switch contact and see if it takes care of it. These are double stacked switches, so even if the upper one is working, the lower one may not be if the contacts on the switch stack are dirty.

Yea thats something else I will need to check. I've had a buzzing coming from the upper right flipper as well, so i needed to get into this and fix em up. Ill double check the switch. Thanks for the suggestion!

#3925 5 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

The buzzing will most likely be a coil stop. Once they start to get worn, or are improper length, they tend to buzz.

Yea i swapped it out with another one i had laying around, and swapped the coil too, but there was no change in the buzz. I wasnt planning on messing with it again until i bought the 5 rebuilds for this machine.

#3927 5 years ago

Got lucky with this issue!

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#3928 5 years ago

Here is the buzzing coil. I swapped the coil stop with one in much better condition. Obviously I am going to rebuild eventually, but the buzz is annoying

#3930 5 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I’d spent the past 3 days replacing my rusty ramp flaps.
In the process of doing that I saw there was an extra switch mount point on the right ramp. I tried out moving the entry switch there and it works fine.
I assume this was all common knowledge seeing how long this game had been out but it makes that ramp look so much better IMO!
The moes tavern sign hides it from the players point of view nicely.
Factory (google image)
[quoted image]
Relocated
[quoted image][quoted image]

Its funny you did this, mine was relocated when i got it, but every photo i saw had it in the front position so i moved it back so it would be "correct" lol

#3933 5 years ago

Yea, 5 flippers and homers head

#3939 5 years ago

My game came with leds, a few are out though. They are cool white. I bought a rubber kit on eBay when I got the game because I needed the game up and running quickly, but the kit didn’t have the correct size post sleeves so I had to contact them and get the slimmer style ones.

My plan is eventually get the titan rings. I put those on my South Park and they are great

#3961 5 years ago
Quoted from IN_Pins:

My Titan sleeve posts are also starting to crack. I haven't kept track of the number of plays since installed but it seems awful early for that to be happening. I'll replace them and keep track for future reference.

I have Titan stern sleeves in my South Park and they cracked a month or so after buying them. on that game is was a post near the bumpers and the post for the kenny shot that would always take the hits that cracked. I replaced those specific ones with the thicker sleeves they sent me by mistake, they absorb the hit better, but they seem to slide up the post a lot so im constantly taking off the glass to push them back down. I havent decided if im going to put Titans in my TSPP due to this.

The rubber kit i bought on ebay for my TSPP also came with the thicker sleeves. They ended up sending me the slim versions, but i just left the orignal ones on since i didnt want to tear down the machine again.

1 week later
#3984 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinrookie:

Hi there
Hope someone can help me. My TSPP still has a resetting issue. Based on Silverball website. I can replace the Bridge (BRDG21) to sort this issue
Link: http://www.silverballrestorations.com/category/pinball-repair-2/
Now based on the stern manual, the replacement for 5v DC logic should be 35a @ 100v (pic 1). However, I cannot find anything @ 100v. After more research at pinside. I found this link:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/brdg21-on-whitestar-what-is-the-correct-one-to-order
It looks like 400v is workable in this situation. Sorry, I am not an electronic technician. I just try to fix this issue myself without creating more issue in the future.
My question is. Can this 35a @ 400v bridge does the same job as the other one listed by stern (35a @ 100v)? If yes, I would like to get one from this website
Link:
https://www.jaycar.co.nz/400v-35a-bridge-rectifier/p/ZR1324
Once again thank you for your help.
Best Regards
Paul
[quoted image]

Not sure what your resetting issue is. Mine was resetting during gameplay, specifically when i would activate 5-6 modes at a single time. I was running CPU 2.0 at the time. I have since upgraded to 5.0 and my game hasnt reset since.

1 month later
#4040 5 years ago

My game recently started having some issues where the couch coil will start firing when I turn the game on. And when that happens, the start button doesn’t work until I give the machine a little bump. Sometimes it doesn’t do this.

I bought the machine from a route, and it’s overall in really good condition minus some flipper wear. But I started checking the connectors on the power board and saw this repair...they cut out the pcb and made the circuit with breadboard behind the pcb...now I’m scared lol

E2B20AE9-B11C-4CE4-8F5F-3B5965ACA2E1.jpegE2B20AE9-B11C-4CE4-8F5F-3B5965ACA2E1.jpeg
#4042 5 years ago
Quoted from Jahkub:

Maybe it's detecting a ball in the couch and trying to eject it? If so, it could just be a switch issue.

good thought. Ill try cleaning the switches, and if that doesnt help, ill replace them and see if that matters.

#4058 5 years ago
Quoted from Ponzie:

Trying to get it into a 2008 Audi Q7... The opening at the back trunk is just not tall enough...

I have a 2018 Tiguan, similar car. My TSPP barely fit. we ended up putting the cargo mat on the top of the backbox and it was jammed into the back, flexing the ceiling foam/fabric a tad. No damage though to the car or the machine.

3 months later
#4271 4 years ago

I just did a custom color theme with titan rings. I put glow in the dark posts and rings around the nuclear plant area, hoping it would glow more, but it doesn’t really glow until I turn off the machine lol. Still a neat gimmick I suppose. I miscounted and I’m 3 posts short from being finished. But i like the way it turned out. Next is a colorDMD.

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#4276 4 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Looks neat. Two suggestions, if I may. The flippers need cleaning and would look great with some Titan rubbers. Get a Kwik-E-Mart sticker.

Quoted from Pinkitten:

You could add a new garage door decal too, or possibly clean off the ball marks if the decal isn’t worn thru. I tried using gel hand sanitizer on a Q-tip to clean the black off flippers and stand up targets. Worked great, and it evaporates without leaving any behind. You could use a cleaner or even Goo-Gone, but that’s much more harsh and has a strong odor. Looking good!

Quoted from gumnut01:

And put Mylar over it

Yea I need to clean the flippers, I replaced the bottom ones when I got the machine, and I was just going to replace the others too so the yellows would all match. Garage door sticker is on my cart at pinball life with some flipper rebuild kits and spotlight replacements.

Oh and all of the rings are titan

#4279 4 years ago
Quoted from ATLPinGuy:

Question for the group:
I have a HUO in good condition. I often set to easy play for the kids so they have a better chance to get to SMS and Alien Invasion. I find during those longer games (for example after a long couch multiball) that the garage door will start to droop (not open all the way). This only seems to happen after the game has been used for awhile. Any idea the cause or better said how to adjust/fix?
A great game... But the drooping of the garage door can be a bummer when playing at times.

mine does the same thing! i was thinking about replacing the coil.

#4284 4 years ago
Quoted from toastbot:

Yeah, mine did that too until I replaced the coil with the stronger one that is actually recommended by Stern in a service bulletin. I don't remember the part number, but I'm sure it's somewhere in this thread.

Yea i remember seeing that. Thats the plan, just not the priority right now. Ill grab it next time i make an order. Its Stern 090-5036-OT/24-940

1 week later
#4295 4 years ago
Quoted from chaz009:

If you could only have one other pin to compliment your TSPP what would it be?

I have a south park right now as my only other pin. But I really want a Lord of the Rings or a Family guy. Outside of those, AFM, RFM or TZ are on my wish list. Im not a HUGE pinball guy, there are only a few tables i really love, and the prices are insane so I will probably never own more than 2 or 3.

2 weeks later
#4322 4 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Is there a reason to replace the fluorescent lighting in the back box with LEDs other than looks?

Heat, Energy consumption

#4324 4 years ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Trying to get an LED tube to work. Thanks.

you have to remove the ballast from the circuit or it isnt going to work. The LED light you bought may have come with a wiring diagram.

#4340 4 years ago

Its pretty crazy how crossing your hands works haha. First time i did that my mind was blown lol

#4361 4 years ago

I bought the NVRAM upgrade from a shop on pintech i believe here on pinside. And i bought the 5.0 upgrade ROMS from Matt's basement arcade shop.

I also had issues with the fork switch for the upper PF Vuk. no issues since replacing that switch.

1 week later
#4420 4 years ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

This is a follow-up request for assistance on a post I made a week or so ago. I purchased a new VUK in an attempt to replace the current one, which never senses the ball to shoot it to the upper playfield. I thought I could just remove the existing VUK by removing it via two small screws, but I'm starting to think I'll need to remove the entire assembly via the much larger (I count 5) screws first. Is that how I would do it? Once I ultimately get the VUK out, then apparently I'll need to do some soldering. Thanks in advance - better safe than sorry, I figure.[quoted image]

I had the same issue and I just needed to replace the Y-switch. You do have to solder the wires to the new one though, but its not bad.

3 weeks later
#4491 4 years ago
Quoted from Grimstead:

Just got my parts back from the powder coater, feel like a kid again on Christmas. I wasn't sure about the color as I picked it from Prismatic's online catalog ("FUNCO YELLOW" for anyone interested) but I think it turned out well. There is a metallic flake to it, but it's a little hard to see.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks great. I recently just spray painted my South Park parts "Maui blue" and it turned out pretty nice. I also bought a can of some yellow i was planning on doing my TSPP, just been kinda lazy. Powder coating is the way to go, but for $10 i figured id give it a try, and since i dont have plans of getting rid of my machine, im not worried about the paint getting damaged since they arent heavily played.

#4492 4 years ago
Quoted from Grimstead:

Just got my parts back from the powder coater, feel like a kid again on Christmas. I wasn't sure about the color as I picked it from Prismatic's online catalog ("FUNCO YELLOW" for anyone interested) but I think it turned out well. There is a metallic flake to it, but it's a little hard to see.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Would you mind sharing how much it was to get everything coated? I reached out to a local place by me and it was like $300-400 for everything.

#4507 4 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Bad switch. Put game in switch test mode and move the switch with your hand from under the playfield. Replace the switch.

Mine had the same problem, but if i hit both flippers at the same time it would trigger it for some reason. I replaced the switch and its fine now.

1 week later
#4547 4 years ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Just start them. And they all stack so - you could theoretically start one, relight with right orbit, get back up to TV to start another, repeat until you get to Alien Invasion!

or play on easy and for the first AI just catch the ball coming out of the TV and shoot it right back in to start all the modes haha

after that though, it requires the orbit shot

3 weeks later
#4608 4 years ago
Quoted from BigSilverPin:

Got my personal high today on my first game of the day! (Previous high 99mill). Still no alien invasion though! I've lit it up once but choked and didnt start the mode. What's everyone's personal high on TSPP?[quoted image]

Depends on the difficultly lol. I have my game on Easy so i can actually see some of the other modes in the game. Im not very good at pinball haha

2 months later
#4768 4 years ago

I have a strange issue with my machine where sometimes when i turn it on, the couch coil will pop like 5 or 6 times in a row, and after that happens the game boots. But when i try to start a game nothing will happen....until i give the machine a little bump. Then everything is fine usually....sometimes though, switches will just start randomly going off, credits will randomly add, and extra players will start getting added to the game.

Obviously sounds like a board issue. The only thing right away I noticed was a section of my power board was fried and repaired with breadboard replacement of the circuit.

1 month later
#4854 4 years ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

I'm going to replace the rubbers in my game but have a question. I bought the kit from Marcos, but the black posts are thicker and shorter in the kit and are rubber vs a hard plastic. Is that going to make much of a difference? The plastic posts in my game are chipping away so I can't really play until I replace.
Followup question: the broken ones come off the post fine, but the non broken ones don't. Any tricks for getting them off the post, aside from breaking them? Lol
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yea those are the wrong post sleeves. When i buy them from Titan they have them labeled as "Stern Slim post sleeves". All the kits I have tried to buy from ebay or Marco came with the thick sleeves. I have used them in some spots where the slim posts constantly crack, but the main area where the thick ones are problematic is the lane leading to the left drain. The ball will get stuck there if you use the thick sleeves.

1 month later
#4926 3 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

One question on the garage for the group. Everything was working when I got it, but I'm having issues with the garage now. When you hit it, it doesn't always stay open... it usually pops up and then just closes. It's like the vuk engages but doesn't stay. I lifted the mini playfield and see no spring, and looking under the playfield the VUK appears to be functioning normally. Before I start disassembly, I wanted to know if this was a common issue with an easy fix, or if you guys had any pointers.
Thanks and loving the game![quoted image]

There was an upgraded coil recommended by stern to fix issues with the garage door. Mine has a similar issue where it doesnt open all the way sometimes. Gets worse with longer play times.

2 weeks later
#4938 3 years ago
Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

[quoted image]
Got the new blades in. Pin is officially done and ready for enjoyment.

I need to get blades and a colordmd. Looks so good.

2 weeks later
#4972 3 years ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Question for the thread: Do you get a lot of right-sling-to-left-outlane drains? I’ve become better about nudging to avoid it, but curious if it’s specific to my copy or design intent.

Not often. I get more I&S launches down the drain.

Now my South Park...that damn game is Left Sling down the Right outlane EVERY. SINGLE. TIME. Its so freaking annoying and I dont know how to prevent it

1 week later
#5018 3 years ago
Quoted from adol75:

I'm probably biased because I own a TSPP, I'm a big fan of the show and I like crowded playfields but I do believe that almost 20 years later TSPP is still the best pinball Stern ever made.

I love it. I've never been super into pinball, but i always loved playing this game at the beach. I always told myself if I ever bought a pin, this would be the one. Then a great local deal popped up on facebook one day Now I want a LOTR.

2 weeks later
#5059 3 years ago
Quoted from CPanther95:

Is there any reason I shouldn't upgrade to the latest software /firmware version of TSSP if I haven't since I bought it back in 2003?
Distributor is going to upgrade to latest version when I get my other games delivered (had no clue they did software updates on pinball machines until coming here), but I wanted to make sure there's no impact on the value vs leaving it as is.
Coming here has also got me thinking of possibly replacing it down the road so I want to maximize selling value.

I was having issues with resets during TV mode stacking. If i stacked 5 or 6 modes together it would reset the game. I think i was on 2.0 when i got the game. Once I updated to the latest 5.0? I never had that issue again.

#5072 3 years ago
Quoted from CodeMonkey:

The VUK (vertical up-kickers) tend to break often.
Not a bad idea to stock a few ahead of time.

Do you mean the Y switch?

#5098 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnnyGee:

Hi guys! Question!
My flippers (and homer head) make a buzzing noise when I hold the flipper buttons down. Is that normal?
This is my first game so I don't know that's how it is but the noise is pretty loud.

Flipper buzz is pretty common. However you can usually make it better with a flipper rebuild. My machine was horrible and i singled out the nosiest flipper was the middle right flipper. I need to rebuild them because the machine was on route at one point. But in the meantime, i bent the little spring washer between the coil stop and the coil to add a bit more tension, which quieted the machine down at least until i order the parts to rebuild everything.

1 week later
#5134 3 years ago
Quoted from SpiffyRob:

Everything's all hooked up and running smoothly with one exception: The TV on the upper playfield.
Could the loose wire above be the culprit? If so, not sure how to fix it. If not, what else should I look for? I checked the connection on the TV itself, but couldn't figure out which connector(s) in the head correspond to it. I did check every connection in the head but perhaps one is still misaligned or loose.

You need a push/crimp tool, however you might be able to get away with using a small screw driver to push the cable into the connector.

That wire is in the last position as in my photo

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1 week later
#5163 3 years ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

Am I crazy for considering this guy? Would any of you buy a TSPP with decals this bad? And if so, what would you pay? I don't normally care too much about the cab, but the wear is so bad it's almost gross-looking. And I move through a lot of pins, so I wouldn't want trouble on the resale. But it's a fun game, and the seller is currently asking for upper-mid 4's on price. PF seems decent, but the pics are pretty small so it's hard to tell.
Any help from more experienced TSPP owners would be appreciated!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

My cabinet had minor wear around the flippers and start, but nowhere near that bad. I feel i got a great deal on it for $4K. I upgraded the ROM to 5.0, added NVRAM, replaced the rubber with Titan rings, cleaned the PF, and replaced the upper playfield VUK Y-switch. Its been pretty solid

#5174 3 years ago
Quoted from Scandell:

TSPP sound mod thread has been started!!!
It’s a game changer. The theme oozes out of the speakers now.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-sound-replacement-mod#post-5752898

holy crap. i have never been interested in the PinSound modding, but this has my attention! That was awesome!

What happens if you stack a bunch of modes? does the song play for the most recently activated mode?

1 month later
#5224 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Have a full set Of cliffy set for tspp. Kit has the 3 ramp and ball eject cliffy. 55 shipped in US

PM sent, im local!

#5228 3 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

sold to you pending pick up

Thanks! Installed and WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I didnt think my Garage ramp was broken, but ive never really looked too close at it and didnt have too many issues with missing the shot. However, this protector shows how wrong I was. I should have bought these a long time ago.

Thanks again!

For everyone else, if you dont have cliffy protectors, buy them now!
79DFC0E9-71DF-4FBE-A0A0-D086038F77F7 (resized).jpeg79DFC0E9-71DF-4FBE-A0A0-D086038F77F7 (resized).jpeg
(Gross i need to clean my playfield)

#5230 3 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Mine was busted the same way. I took the broken piece and epoxied it back in place and the Cliffy strengthens the repair.

mine has no piece. I bought it off a route, its very possibly i vacuumed it up when i cleaned it out 2 years ago, but who knows. I was thinking molding something over the exposed cliffy may be a good idea. I should have looked at it before, but since i was making the shot majority of the time i didnt think much about it, even though i knew it was a common issue.

1 week later
#5256 3 years ago

I ended up just removing the entire ramp when i did mine

1 week later
#5265 3 years ago

anyone else have an issue where the Playfield shifts? I thought i needed to clean/replace my shooter, but then i realized the tip was rubbing against the auto-plunge assembly. So i physically pushed the playfield to the side and now the shooter is centered and shooting correctly. After a few plays though, the playfield moves and rubs against the shooter again. I do not have this issue with my South Park, its only happening on my TSPP.

#5267 3 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

I had this happen and to fix it I drilled a hole in one of the brackets and threaded it for a machine screw. I also drilled a hole in the part that was directly below the bracket when the playfield was centered. Problem is solved. I will post up a pic later.

Thanks I would like to see what you did. It is pretty annoying, I thought my shooter dirty or worn out, but then i realized the auto-plunge was weak and figured out what was going on.

#5273 3 years ago
Quoted from Bospins:

Hey Guys
How important are cliffys?
thanks.

Must have. I just put mine in, and my garage ramp was already busted. It makes the thing play so much better now. Install them day one.

#5274 3 years ago

Thanks. I might have to do the same. Im going to mess around with the shooter and see if its the position or something before drilling into the lockdown mech. But at least it works!

1 month later
#5319 3 years ago
Quoted from SKORR_Arcades:

I'm Not a graphic artist at all, but I wanted to make my own custom TSPP speaker box decal. After measuring and creating a template in photoshop, I added a high res background and a bunch of characters.
This is still a test copy printed on 3 pieces of plain paper (not vinyl yet) and taped together.
I also made custom side blades but I'm still refining the artwork. [quoted image]

Personally, i would remove "The Simpsons" from above the DMD. The name is already on the backglass so its not necessary imo.

1 month later
#5413 3 years ago
Quoted from Jeffswack:

Odd issue with my simpsons. Recently found out about the ability to restart the game after a ball but it seems to do whacky things with the sound.
Sometimes it'll play the opening couple of theme notes when I get it onto upper playfield.
Tonight I got to alien invasion. For the first time and almost immediately all the music and call outs cut out for it but the standard call outs where able to be heard.
Soundboard issue or bug with code?
[quoted image]

I had an issue where the game would reset after activating 5-6 TV modes at once. After I upgraded to the 5.0 roms that went away, havent had a reset since.

#5428 3 years ago
Quoted from Scandell:

Finally got my ColorDMD installed. Amazing upgrade. Don’t hesitate.
[quoted image]

Is that the LCD? Im torn between which on to get still haha.

2 weeks later
#5454 3 years ago
Quoted from ts4z:

Parts are available, except the garage ramp, which I think is NLA.

I find it weird that this isnt available given how much they break and how many of these machines are out there.

1 week later
#5467 3 years ago
Quoted from BigSilverPin:

Any leads on a lock down bar? Mine is cosmetically damaged and I've had no luck finding one that fits. I've thought about powder coating it and the legs etc. but not sure if anyone in the NY area does it. Any ideas?
Thanks guys! Happy New Year

https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=500-5757-02-00

3 weeks later
#5518 3 years ago

Sigh. I am experiencing the weak garage door. I’ve recently upgraded the coil to the one in the SB, but the door won’t open after maybe the first few times. Verified nothing is blocking it. The plunger feels a little warm though under the coil, so maybe that’s the issue...I’m really irritated by this haha

#5520 3 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

What does the end of the plunger look like where it touches the garage door? does it have a flat side from wear, or is it perfectly round? If it has a flat side, sand it so it is round again. That will buy you some time until you will need to replace it.

It’s rounded. I feel like the coil is getting weak, it’s brand new though. It will work for a few times then it stops.

#5521 3 years ago
Quoted from sk8ersublime:

It’s rounded. I feel like the coil is getting weak, it’s brand new though. It will work for a few times then it stops.

Think i fixed it, the alignment of that mech is kinda weird. Took some adjusting. Seems to be working well now

3 years later
#7234 48 days ago
Quoted from Klod:

While I’m not sure it’s your problem combine with other issues but I had random balls into shooter lane. Replace trough opto and it went away. Got it at pinball life.
Opto Transmitter and Receiver Board Set For Data East/Sega/Stern
515-0173-00_515-0174-00

My game did this when I bought it. I opened it up and the opto was barely hanging on. Just had to tight the screws and it’s been solid for 6 years since

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