Question: When we hit the garage door sometimes it does not go up, hit it again then it opens. Is this the rules of the game or wear/fade on the door components? I also noticed it will only sometime go up 3/4 of the way.
Tried searching for this topic already so apologies if this is an old question.

So hanging out Christmas Day, brother-in-law playing TSPP, comes up from the basement and says, “got a ball jam”. Go down to a couch multi-ball all jammed up at #19 upper right eject. Coil is not firing. Clear the jam and still no luck. Noticed the Left and right slingshot and garage door are down. Change the F7 fuse (20V DC Low power coils) and we are in business. Later on after everyone is gone, I notice that Flash lamp #25 is stuck on? (Flash: Itchy). Power down the machine and the flash lamp slowly dims out. It matches the 20V LED light on the I/O board in terms of fade out after power down. It was fine before the fuse fix. Looking at the I/O Power driver Schematic but kinda rusty on reading these prints. Traces to J6 Q25 Bridge 2? Is the rectifier toast?

After taking the picture and writing this bulb #25 is out. I don’t want to damage anything else. Thought I would share to help with my next move.

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Anyone know why my Simpsons just rebooted in the middle of a game? After that I just left it on to monitor the situation and every few minutes it reboots like I flicked the on/off button. Never did this before. I powered it down to be safe.

Thank you.

Anyone have some tips to the upper right saucer where the ball shoots up and lands in the pocket but the game does not register. When ball search is conducted it kicks out. I checked the switch test for this (#24 upper right saucer) and it registers. I adjusted the metal tab a bit but still nothing. You think the micro switch is still toast even thought it will register in test mode?

It seemed to get slower and slower to acknowledge the ball the past few weeks.

Thank you

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On it! Report in a few minutes

Bottle cap spacer not installed.

Rolled the ball into it 20x. 1, 14,15 did not register and went into ball search. All the rest of the attempts it registered.

Bottle cap installed
Rolled the ball into it 20x 0 ball search. Looks like it did need the spacer after all.

Interesting.

Thank you!

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Yes for testing purposes only!

So my upper right saucer #24 stopped working. Soldered in a new switch last week and nothing. Tested and found switch 64 and 16 also not registering. Only thing in common is the white/gray CN7 row. But the other switches on that row work (tilt Bob, garage door etc). We looked for obvious broken wire and tested diodes and reseated the connection at the CPU.
I don’t want to start digging into the harness looking for a broken wire. I have a meter to test continuity. Any suggestions or old threads to read?

Thanks.

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OK. So to do this test right what state does the machine need to be in? In service menu mode or in standby? Does it matter?
How do I “short those switches with a set of clips” so I do the right test correctly? Short the male pin from the board and connect to the ground strap?

Thank you, I will run the tests shortly.

Updated! We tracked the issue down to a broken solder joint at one of the switches. As the matrix states we had signal until a certain point then it went dead. Tracing back it was broken at the solder joint where 2 wires go into one. Thank you guy for the troubleshooting tips!

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Hope thus helps

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I went green for the Green nuclear reactor... I might go another color in the future

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This orange glows the ramp underneath the upper playfield

What color red or green? I have some from when my green LED failed. Shoot me a PM

Agree, unplug the TV cable, remove the 3 black screws and lift the mini-playfield and tilt it over a bit. Used shop rags under to protect.

I did the full yellow kit in November. Very accurate and looks great.

You can set the color LCD DMD to display in dot form. So it has the option to look like the LED display.

I have had 2 of these machines. The 1st one was routed and had seen some good use. All the ramps had cracks/chips at entry points. Not a deal breaker but cracks were there. White fade at flipper buttons/start button. When I purchased my current one which was made 1 week after my 1st one (4/2003) it was HUO from new and never left this gentleman’s basement. I immediately ordered all the cliffy’s for the ramps / shooter lane to preserve the perfect condition of the game. Also waxed then went the clear cover route.

Yes. It is worth it. You can add the USB on Pinsound to your order that pre-loaded with the files.

On order! Been waiting for this one.

On my first TSSP I did non-ghosting kit from Comet. I then added OCDLED later on to test and see if there was a difference. Adding the OCDLED did not make a difference at that point so I removed it. Later on my 2nd TSSP (HUO 100% original) I bought the comet kit again but in 2SMD regular LED’s. (If you buy the kit you need to tell them you want regular 2SMD LED lamps for the kit vs the non-ghosting). When installing the OCDLED box on my second go-around it was a perfect combo and also much brighter than the 1SMD non-ghosting kit.

So the trick is to plan ahead. I recommend LEDOCD box and 2SMD regular LED combo. I did the same set up on my Avatar and it has the nice soft transitions that regular bulbs have. Very noticeable for this era of Stern pins.