Anyone know where to buy green inserts for the nuclear side rails and hinges? I’m getting yellow powder coat so need to switch to green. I can always laminate some heavy fluorescent green paper but it would be easier to buy pre-made.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider luckymoey.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Anyone know where to buy green inserts for the nuclear side rails and hinges? I’m getting yellow powder coat so need to switch to green. I can always laminate some heavy fluorescent green paper but it would be easier to buy pre-made.
Quoted from atrainn:When I paint mine I was planning on just taking the plastic off and spray painting it, if you find something premade I'd love to know where!
That’s not a bad idea, thanks. Looks like there are some neon green paints available that are compatible with plastic.
Quoted from BigSilverPin:Installing a colordmd board. Got everything hooked up, got power to the colordmd screen, but wont play video from thegame, menus only. Also having a hard time taking a flash. Everything look right in my setup? Thanks in advance!
Looking at your picture, you don't have 5V power reconnected to the Display Controller Board.
Quoted from opt_prime:I thought I could just remove the existing VUK by removing it via two small screws, but I'm starting to think I'll need to remove the entire assembly via the much larger (I count 5) screws first. Is that how I would do it? Once I ultimately get the VUK out, then apparently I'll need to do some soldering.
You should be able to just remove the 2 screws holding on the coil retaining bracket rather than the whole assembly. Part 5 on page page 87 of the manual. This will let you move the coil out of the way and get at the switch. I'd check out the switch closely before replacing. The activation arm may have just come loose from the switch body or it could be something else minor. If you do have to replace, make sure to transfer the diode over from the old to new switch in the right direction. Don't be afraid to take the whole assembly off though if it makes it easier to access/replace the switch. You can use some wire ties to hang it from the wiring harness or something else secure.
Quoted from luckymoey:You should be able to just remove the 2 screws holding on the coil retaining bracket rather than the whole assembly. Part 5 on page page 87 of the manual. This will let you move the coil out of the way and get at the switch. I'd check out the switch closely before replacing. The activation arm may have just come loose from the switch body or it could be something else minor. If you do have to replace, make sure to transfer the diode over from the old to new switch in the right direction. Don't be afraid to take the whole assembly off though if it makes it easier to access/replace the switch. You can use some wire ties to hang it from the wiring harness or something else secure.
Now that I look at it closer, you could probaly also just take the switch off it's bracket using a small nut driver to remove the (2) 8-32 screws.
Quoted from opt_prime:Ah thanks - you mean 2 of the large screws, versus the tiny ones? I'll look at my manual tonight.
Yes. There is a bracket that holds the top of the coil in place. Take it off and you will be able to move the coil and plunger out of the way.
Quoted from monkfe:I wear cheap white gloves from Amazon....as do all my guests....keeps fingerprints off the metal too...you'd be surprised how quickly they get dirty....buy em by the bag...
Imagine you don't allow your guests to do slide saves either
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poll-what-is-a-slide-save-classed-as-in-pinball
Quoted from Fezmid:Looks like I must need the piece that isn't in the kit. Not sure if it said that when I ordered and I just missed it (probably) or what, but I guess I need these:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5308-00-65
Yes, don’t use the thicker ones. I haven’t had good luck with Marco including the right post sleeves in their kits.
I slip a small flat head screw driver between the bottom of the metal post and post rubber to pry it up a little. Then use needle nose pliers if needed to pull it off. Just be careful not to slip and hit the play field. A squirt of Novus 1 on the top of the post can also help it come off easier.
Quoted from Moli410:...I'm getting sellers contacting me that want over 6k. No way in hell I'm paying that much for a Simpsons.
There are occasional bargains and rip-offs but overall you generally “get what you pay for.” Lots of Simpson’s out there but prices for HUO examples will probably continue to go up as more people keep joining the hobby and NIB prices rise. True HUO is $5500-6000 all day. Add Color DMD, nuclear side rails and powdercoat and $6000-7000 seems like the new normal. Still a great deal vs HUO modern premiums or LE’s. IMO, if you can afford it, top quality, unrestored examples of highly regarded DMD’s are the best value (excluding likely remakes). Plus they play much better with fewer headaches than average ones.
Quoted from Sandman454:Is it better to also clear coat all the metal parts ramps and loops etc that I have cleaned and polished to prevent tarnishing again.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I’m not an expert, but it’s definitely not common to coat ball guides and ramps, even on high end restores. The guides take a beating so the clear may not hold up to repeated ball strikes or friction - same reason cliffy’s are used on kick-outs and ball drop areas. Cleaning and waxing should reduce tarnishing, and I use Brite Boy polish during more thorough shop jobs.
Quoted from cjchand:Off-topic for this thread, but how are you liking Hot Wheels?
Like it a lot. The playfield design and rules are great. Tough but not brutal or unfair; hard to trap-up so forces you to play on-the-fly and defensively; more to rules and playfield design than meets the eye. Not super deep but broad and deep enough for long-term enjoyment. Still needs more animations and sounds to immerse you fully and create big moments, but no doubt will come. Certainly good compliment to Simpsons.
Quoted from allsportdvd:How did you get the T-Molding to sit so well at the headbox? Or is it something else?
It's standard T-molding. I just overlapped the horizontal sections slightly with the verticals.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider luckymoey.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-owners-club-members-only?tu=luckymoey and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.