What are you spelling?
(Topic ID: 50801)
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The Simpsons Pinball Party
Stern, 2003
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1 month later
The ones that have the pink car more accurately reflect the colors in the show. I think they are from the earlier runs 03/04. In later runs, the car is red.
1 month later
Quoted from dmacy:No idea how some can get to AI on this.
Getting to AI isn't terribly hard, getting past it is.
You need to replace the display (on back of dmd) and CPU roms, when your machine starts up, if it is set to slow boot, it will tell you what version you are running. You can change boot speec in the adjustment menu. I bought my machine in 2003 and only upgraded to the newest roms recently. I didn't notice much difference, but they are cheap.
Not sure, go to sterns website to see when the last updates were done, it's listed by date. It's very easy to tell, should be printed on the chip in your machine.
4 months later
No, I love the treehouse modes as is, never completed nuclear disaster and Apus giveaway is pretty funny.
1 week later
Quoted from njg:Just picked a huo game but having trouble making the left ramp consistently. Anyone else find that shot really difficult ?
Great game. Can't believe how many modes there are
Njg
You mean the treehouse shot? It's the toughest shot in the game. Much easier to make the penguin loop in RBION 
2 months later
Quoted from kwiKimart:Just GC'd mine and finally reached AI and Scratchy's Revenge!!!
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You got to AI and only got 60 mil?? I think the lowest I've scored getting to AI is like 75, but usually closer to 125 on average when I reach AI, which is maybe every 10-15 games. Keep in mind that each mode you complete adds time to AI. In addition, victory laps can add up if you can complete two or three in a single ball. It's not that easy, but is doable if you have mb going. That said, 60 mil is a respectable score.
6 months later
Quoted from dendoc:Getting the upper play field off is easy - just 3 large black nobs to unscrew and lift clear of the flippers. The TV is easy to remove as well to get to the switch behind. Just may need a little bend to make it more prominent to register. Rarely does it need resoldering. I've had one switch give up - at the base of the upper play field VUK. This is easy to access from under the whole play field - so just unscrew and solder in a new one.
I don't think You can just undo the three thumbscrews and lift the PF unless you want to pull your wires apart. You have to also undo three connectors underneath the PF, including one for the tv, which is a z connector. You'll need to feed the wires through from the bottom or they will snag, helps to have a helper pull from the top while someone else feeds from the bottom. It is easy after you do it the first time. Sounds like you've done it, but I did not have enought slack to pull the PF up with all the wires attached.
While you have it out put LEDs in the bulbs sockets and all around that area. I'd replace the switch in question as you could button it all back up and still have the problem...though seems it has been fixed for now
Quoted from scottslash:Finally!!! After a year of heavy play, I finally FINISHED Alien Invasion! 5 balls locked. All other mini-wizard modes I've completed multiple times -- never in same game -- but this is the first time to finish Alien Invasion!! Woo hoo!!
Congrats, I've never done it since I've owned it, 2003. 
Locked 4 balls, but that's it. It's very hard to do. I'm a decent player, my high is like 206 mil on 3 ball.
Soldering is not hard, practice a bit. It's a great skill to have for pinball. I was in the same boat as you about a year ago, now I look forward to doing it.
2 weeks later
Welcome to the club! That number of plays isn't accurate because your chip shows v4, which means it's been upgraded from the original version. When you change roms, everything gets erased. You have 1568 on v4.
Quoted from Rickwh:The kwikemart plastic with a shake and a hotdog on mine has a plastic clip on it like it would hold a wire. I dont see that on other pics of this machine. Anyone else see this before?
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Mine has the same clip. No idea what it is for. Bought mine nib in 2003.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:Those are the original batteries and I am willing to bet that the number of plays is accurate. They didn't keep shipping out all TSPP with the same code. they made the game for many years, and as new code came out, they shipped the game with that code.
That is actually a very clean/low use TSPP. Nice find...
Good point! I stand corrected.
google john wart roms. you will lose your high scores and all other settings, including the free play setting
1 week later
3 weeks later
My guess, the rubber reduces vibration and/or provides a spacer. Likely stopped doing it to save time and cost. I like them.
4 weeks later
I recently removed the mini PF, Yes, there are three or four connectors below. This was an easier task than I thought. Replace all the bulbs in the area and under the mini PF while you have it off.
Quoted from ahdelarge:So, you have to disconnect the connectors under the main playfield or below the mini playfield?
Yes, I plan to fully led the machine, so will be cleaning and putting leds in while the mini playfield is off.
Under the main playfield, nothing to disconnect under the mini PF. Make sure you label everything and the direction they get plugged in.
2 weeks later
Only the krusty loop can enable a mode to be ready. Sometimes mystery will light it too. That's it. There is a setting in the menu to light it after every ball, you can turn it off to light only with the loop shot to make the game harder.
1 week later
Quoted from gweempose:That's interesting. How many plays does your game have? Did you do anything at all to protect that area (i.e. Hard As Nails)? Mine is a relatively low play HUO machine, and it has a little wear at the left side of the I&S hole. There is also some slight wear in the shooter lane. The rest of the playfield is perfect.
No idea, but it's mostly me that plays it. Looks like new. Maybe 1000 plays?.
2 months later
Hit both flippers at the same time when its in Otto or in the couch and it will release quicker, skipping the animations.
2 weeks later
Quoted from rai:On my machine occasionally the ball will be in I&S scoop and the middle target will be up and the ball will try to eject with the middle target up once and then the target will drop and it will eject. Is that normal?
What code version are you running? Code updates were supposed to have fixed this by dropping all targets when ball lands in the hole. If you don't fix this, your target will break at some point.
Quoted from rai:I've older code but have bought new rom, is it hard to install?
Not hard. Use a small flat head screw driver to gently pry the old rom out. When you put the new rom in make sure the notch on the chip is oriented to match the notch on the board, or just remember how it was when you took the old one out. You need to replace both the display and game rom. 5.0 is the latest. Make sure you don't bend the legs on the rom and that they are all in the right holes.
3 weeks later
Quoted from akm:Just now going through this thread, I wanted to follow up on this old post. I just wanted to say that my car is red and it was in one of the early batches (Feb, 2003). So, it seems early runs also had the red car.
Good to know, thanks for clarifying. I still think the pinkish car more accurately reflects the car on the show. Not sure why they used red and switched back and forth. I see a lot more red cars than the pinkish ones.
1 month later
Nice game, color dmd looks great on tspp. I think that might be my Kang and kodos mod!
I have superbands on all my tspp flippers. No issue with the couch shot. I don't make it every time, but it's not an issue to hit it. I doubt it's the flipper rubber, causing you to miss, maybe check the flipper mechs underneath.
4 weeks later
Quoted from TimeBandit:Thanks. Stoopid me thought consolation ball was the ball you got for not hitting any switches on the way through.
That would be freeze time.
1 month later
Congrats. The basic strategy is to start the tv modes. If the yellow arrow by the tv is lit, shoot the tv to start it and then hit the flashing inserts. For monorail mode, let the ball drain down the month rail ramp 5 times I think it is. If the yellow tv insert light is not lit, shoot the right orbit, known as the krusty loop, to light it again, rinse and repeat. Do that for all the modes and you will reach alien invasion. You don't need to finish the modes to start AI, but for each mode you finish, more time gets added to AI. Plus, finishing modes can give valuable victory lap scoring. That is just the basics, there are many more modes not associated with the tv, read the rule set for those.
Quoted from Reidyb3:Sure... No problem... Piece of cake...
Glad I'm not feeding loonies into it!
Better to feed loonies than USD!
2 weeks later
2 weeks later
Quoted from cooked71:Just joined with a nice HUO. Loving it so far - a lot to do. Will have to get used to the long ball times.
It's my first Whitestar Stern and i noticed the sound is pretty average. Any recommended upgrades for sound? Speakers? Boards?
Best sound upgrade is an external sub.
Quoted from Reidyb3:How would you connect the sub? Simply solder to the existing cabinet speaker? Was researching a sound upgrade for my TSPP just yesterday.
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Yes. Positive(red) is closest to front.
Owned nib since 2003, never beaten AI, farthest I got was 4 balls locked. My high score is 211mil on factory settings, including outlanes. I do, however, have one fixed score extra ball at 15 mil for guests.
1 week later
2 weeks later
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:I picked up a nice HUO TSPP last week, and between me and my kids, we have had a blast playing the snot out of it.
I have noticed one thing that is bothering me about the machine. When the ball drains, the machine won't register it until you hit the flippers. At first I thought this was an issue with the trough switches, but when I go into the ball clear test the trough switches appear to be working fine. The ball will fire out of the launch lane, and return to the drain, and the trough switch instantly registers it. It is making me wonder if this is a software issue. The machine is running 4.0 roms.
Has anyone else encountered this issue?
The trough switches may be registering, but the trough boards may be an issue. Take the balls out of the game and put the game in switch test mode. What does it show as being active? Should be Homers head and that's it I believe. If it shows anything in the trough that's your problem. While in test mode, hit the flippers to see what activates.
3 months later
It's your display rom version located on the back of the dmd. Latest is 5.0. replace it and the game rom version to upgrade.
2 weeks later
What happens to the ball in the garage? Does it get sent to the upper pf, or does it just sit there? Is the game going through a ball search? Do you have the right number of balls in the game, 5.
I don't have a switch matrix in front of me, but I would see what number switch the vuk is and then see if it is on the same row or column as one of the trough optos. Sounds like a trough opto is being triggered by the vuk switch. That would be a playfield wiring issue.
Row 7 has 5-ball stacking opto (15) and upper left vuk (55), which is the one I think you are referring to. Go into switch test mode and activate the vuk switch if you can access it and see if anything else registers.
It's in the standard adjustments menu not diagnostics. Also, you can't adjust just one coil, it's all or none.
Quoted from Whysnow:I will be selling a HUO TSPP with 710 plays in the next couple weeks. What is the going rate?
Depends on how fast you want to sell it. 4200-4800.
The red color of the car on the playfield is inaccurate in reference to the show. The car in the show is pinkish. No idea why they switched. If I had to choose between two side by side, I'd choose the pink one. The canyonero was red, but don't think it's a canyonero they are showing. Call me a Simpsons snob 
3 weeks later
Quoted from mavantix:I ordered my 5.0 ROMs from thatpinballplace.com - he's also on eBay is you prefer ordering there.
+1. John wart is great to deal with for roms or board repair, highly recommend him.
Quoted from scottslash:Unlike most others (people and games) I prefer dots on TSPP. Kinda fits with the dots on the TV and gives it more of a carnival look.
Speaking of carnival, I rode the Simpsons ride at Universal Studios Hollywood last Sunday. It's one of the park's, like, *5* simulator rides, but very funny stuff!
I've ridden it a few times, makes me sick, just like all the other simulator rides. But, it is a cool ride.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:With all the talk about the problems with the new Stern playfields lately, I was wondering how everyone's TSPP playfield compares. I was also wondering what issues anyone has had with their machines in general. I have had mine since April, it was made in '04, am very happy with it and the minor issues I have had (which are all remedied) are the garage ramp breaking, the upper playfield right flipper sticking up occasionally, the right flipper switch going out, playfield dirt coming back quickly, and that's it! No ghosting or lifting of any inserts, or any abnormal wear. I am thinking that the new Stern playfields are mylar coated and the adhesive is releasing in places.
No problems for me...nib owner since 2003. Game is a tank.
Got to alien invasion again tonight, locked 4 of 4 and couldn't finish....sigh. Never completed this mode. Final score 111 mil, 30 minute game.
Quoted from Cserold:Rick, thank you. Did you take the TV off before taking off the UPF or is that not necessary?
Tv can stay. There are three or four connectors underneath the playfield, including one for the tv, label and unplug them, then remove the three thumbscrews and the pf lifts right up. If i were you, i would put leds under that playfield so you never have to remove it to change a bulb.
Quoted from Cserold:Not yet. I've got a tech coming out on Saturday and going to watch him do it first.
Hopefully you arent paying him to remove the upper pf, its really very easy to do. Once you do it, it will give you confidence to do other things.
Btw, in addition to replacing bulbs on the upper of, replace all of the gi bulbs in that area especially the one(s) by comic book guy, which cannot be accessed from underneath.
I had incandescents in my tspp for 12 years. Added LEDs and never looked back. I don't feel an OCD board is needed for my game.
It's definitely smoother and makes the lights look less neurotic, but on its own you can't tell so much. With LOTR, there was a lot of flickering and even minor ghosting despite using ng bulbs. Don't get me wrong, it's a fantastic product, but on tspp, I just don't feel it bothers me. Baywatch was a massive improvement, not only did it remove the harshness of the bulbs, which were almost blinding in some modes, it stopped the relay clicking in the backbox.
2 weeks later
3 weeks later
Quoted from emkay:You really seem to want to be downvoted but nobody has yet. I only use that button for posts that exemplify the aspect of Pinside that makes me want to avoid most of the hot threads.
Personally, I'd love to hear what y'all have done with your cooling towers on the pops. I've got some bright white LEDs without lenses in there right now but the plastic doesn't diffuse them much and I don't like how they look, being able to see the diode package pretty clearly. Some of the pictures posted in here look green or purple and I like that much better, just haven't gotten around to fussing with them. I forget whose I saw looked like it had a cotton ball in there or something, which looked really cool to me.
i put green 555 leds in the towers, frosted.
1 week later
Quoted from Cserold:Dumb question. Where do you find the version of code you are running? Tried to look in the menus but couldn't find it. Thanks guys. -- craig
Change the game adjustment to slow boot and it will show on the dmd when you turn game on.
Quoted from Cserold:Thank you. Not that it matters but will factory reset clear high scores?
Resets everything when you change roms, including number of plays on the game.
1 week later
You can push the start button and I believe it's supposed to eject them.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:Got to alien invasion last night and twice got two balls stuck in the I&S hole. Arrgh.
Quoted from Jakers:Can anyone give me some input on Mezel Mods KWIK-E-MART DECAL? I would like to purchase one but when I look at the picture they provide on their website, the decal looks low quality. Almost like it's filled in with a sharpie marker and hand cut with scissors.
I mean no disrespect to Mezel Mods. I have ordered other things from them and have been very satisfied. The picture of the decal just makes me wonder if thats a prototype or the final product I would receive.
We are the manufacturer of the decal sold through Mezel. In fact, that pic is of a prototype, our first one and the one that is still in our game. We probably need to take it out and put a new one in to have a better picture. It is not colored in with a sharpie and is a high resolution print as you can see in the pic below. We do hand cut the decals.
Edit: This question reminded me that I needed to replace the decal in my game. New pics below. Looks great to me!
Have you tested the switch in test mode? I doubt it's not working because it's dirty.
Quoted from atwong:What does everyone use to clean the pad that scores the skill shot comic book guy. When I make the hit, it's not registering. I'm thinking it's a dirty contact. I was thinking of spraying it with Electrical Contact Cleaner but I don't see anyone posting with product. Thanks!
Quoted from atwong:it works when you hit it harder.
Replace the switch. Very easy fix.
Quoted from griffo84:I still can't figure out my problem with the tv dmd. I'm guessing the display is shot?
Did you reseat the other end of the cable too? Scrambled dmd is usually a cable issue. Could be you have a bad or bent pin too. Look closely at the connection.
Quoted from Twirt:Factory reset didn't do anything. Although I was just playing a game and the couch actually locked the balls. Is there anything special you have to do (gameplay-wise) to get them to lock? I always thought it was hit the lock target in upper playfield and then hit ramp/couch. But 95% of the time the balls dont lock in the couch and drain to the lower playfield.
I also noticed that the last time the multiball actually worked, the couch released all 3 balls at once. I thought they were supposed to come one at a time?
Thanks again for the help.
Is the green lock insert lit when you hit the couch? If not, it releases the ball.
Quoted from TimberOne:Purchased a tspp a few weeks ago, it is in great shape, not too many mods. I really like the led pop so that is probably the first on the list. Last game i bought a kit, but was not thrilled, ended up mostly replacing most to my taste and fixing ghost issues. I am planning on comet leds. Anyone have a bulb list or suggested bulbs to start from? That would be a huge timesaver if so!
I read the other posts and looks like i will need the ocd also! So it begins...
you may not need the OCD board. Comet 2835 bulbs are typically good, definitely in the GI sockets. In my game, I have all non-ghosting bulbs from Cointaker and have zero ghosting issues. I don't have an LED OCD board, but OCD is much more than just ghosting, it is the fade effects. I went for a very long time without LEDs in this game, but I do like it better with them.
Modded my backbox, removing the tube and replacing with leds. I have warm white strips on the bottom half and colored strips on the top. These are not tied to the game, just have some fading effects installed.
Bad switch, adjust or replace. Can be done from underneath. Basically, switch isn't registering when ball lands in the saucer. Buy more than one switch, they are common on the game.
1 week later
What code are you running? Older code didn't properly dropen the targets. Newest code is 5.0.
Should be 5 balls with I&S and couch mb running.
So maybe I misunderstood. You are saying the ball exits the i&s hole fine, but hits the flipper or somewhere else and bounces back in the hole? The targets are supposed to drop whenever hole switch is hit so not sure why yours aren't resetting. Try a factory reset to see if it helps or try to change the angle of the coil so the ball hits somewhere else and doesn't bounce back in the hole.
Quoted from Cserold:Are you sure? Thought the I&S multiball just added another 1 ball to the playfield. So if you have 3 running in CMB, wouldn't I&S just add another 1 ball for a total of 4?
Pretty sure my game runs 5 balls if you have couch and I&s running together. I'll double check tonight.
Quoted from soapblox:Ugh. Getting multiple balls in I&S or Otto during Alien Invasion. FeelsBadMan
Push the start button when that happens and it frees them...if I recall.
Quoted from emkay:It's under Standard Adjustments on the service menu.
referred to as freeze time
1 week later
Quoted from Cloud7:All of the sudden my start button seems to be less responsive almost intermittent. Any idea what to look at?
Test it in switch test mode, still intermittent?
Check connections, still not working?
Remove the switch from black housing and test it again, still not working?
Replace the switch. $5 at pinball life. You'll need a diode.
Switch is removed from housing by turning it in the black housing (counterclockwise if you are looking down at it) then pull it out.
2 weeks later
Quoted from Monk:I agree with those first couple of games, but if I had that kind of funding I would pick up a Metallica Pro immediately. I will have to look into the others. I have not seen a Shadow for sale in my area in a long time.
T2 is a great game! Wcs also good in this price range as is hs2 and even roadshow or whirlwind. Bump up to 3k range and you can start to look for sopranos or rbion,.
3 weeks later
Quoted from TimberOne:Has anyone added a shaker?
I dont think its possible. To add one to lotr, you have to upgrade pal chip and have a special rom. Those dont exist for tspp.
Quoted from jalpert:If there is no code in the game to trigger the shaker, adding a shaker is dumb. Sometimes people will connect them to flashers or something else, but without discrete shaker code it's a waste of time.
Not necessarily. I have one in my baywatch that is not supported by code. Works when the solenoids go off, so in the bumpers it feels nice.
2 weeks later
how these games only sell in the 4K range is hard to understand. Deep rule set, great artwork, show voices, tons of shots and modes and a theme integration that is among the best there is.
The pinkish car in the game matches the car in the show. Don't know why they switched to red. I prefer the pink car.
3 weeks later
Quoted from multibrawlr:During Springfield Mystery Spot, you have to make all ten double scoring shots. Then, the garage door closes. You must hit the door and make a solid shot into it--all within a few seconds before it closes again. Doing so yields the super jackpot and you "win" Mystery Spot.
You get to Daredevil Mania by completing all four Daredevil modes. It's an untimed round where you must score 5 million points through shooting everything--bumpers, loops, ramps, targets, ect. Once you meet that quota, Daredevil Mania is completed.<blockquote
Collect all six hurry-ups, then hit Comic Book Guy one more time to start Secret Stash. Every hurry-up begins flashing, and are worth a countdown value of 500,000. Collecting one stops, awards, and resets the value. The Comic Book Guy can be hit at any time to reset all hurry-ups. There's also a 2 million bonus award for making all six hurry-ups *without* hitting Comic Book Guy. To beat Secret Stash, you must collect ten hurry-ups.
*Alien Invasion you get from at least starting all seven TV modes and then shooting the TV a final time when they're all over. It's a mode where you must lock a certain number of balls. Phase 1 involves locking two balls. Do so, and then you must lock three balls in the second stage, ect. The final stage tasks you with locking all five balls. Losing a ball when the ball saver is off moves you down a stage.
One ball can be locked in Itchy & Scratchy and Springfield Elementary, and two balls may be locked in the couch (the lit arrows/shots tell you which shots are available for locks). The timer is determined by the number of TV modes you've completed. Lock all five balls in the final stage to beat Alien Invasion.
*Scratchy's Revenge comes from playing through all four Itchy & Scratchy multiballs. Shots score jackpots, counting down to a super at the Itchy & Scratchy saucer. Super is lit at 15 jackpots - the number of super jackpots you've made in the other four multiballs. Get a super jackpot, and you win Scratchy's Revenge.
* Another goal for Super Duper Mega Extreme Wizard Mode is to make all 5 super jackpots in Couch Multiball.
* Pretzel Multiball is not a goal for SDMEWM, but is still there. Requires 26 Cletus Kids (or 26 left orbit shots). I don't know the rules to this one.
* Don't forget about the Treehouse of Horror modes if you want to capture those. Many of them available are timed rounds like Nuclear Disaster, Krusty's Nightmare, Apu's Giveaway, Captain's Bounty, and Crazy Extra Ball (light Treehouse by making enough right ramps, then shoot side left ramp to collect).
--
Phew. Hopefully that makes a little sense and helps with your project.
Plus reverse flippers, which I think is part of springfield mystery spot?
Nunclear disaster hits are the bumpers. I've never completed it. Best think to do is hit the Kristy loop and have a mb going.
Quoted from sohchx:Hey guys, I have a question. What mods for this game are actually worth the money for this game outside of Cliffy's? I'm not talking cosmetics, I'm talking must haves in terms of protection and reliability. I have found some super nice, highly modded examples that I am contemplating purchasing but can't really figure out what mods on them I can do without. Are mods for this game easy to sell? Because I am thinking that's the route that I will go IE: strip the mods that I don't need and sell them. Can't seem to find a bone stock example which is what I ideally want to start with to tailor it to my liking.
So, if you don't want typical mods like lighted figures, etc, the game needs absolutely nothing. I have my game since I bought it in 2003 nib and I've done nothing to it in terms of protection or reliability except nvram. I wouldn't spend a dime on anything, the game is rock solid. If it's going to be huo, not even cliffys are needed. Mine still looks like it came out if the box and plays that way as well.
Edit: of course, if you want to add mods like the school bus, Kang and kodos and kwikemart sign, check out our pinside shop or we site
The years don't matter. My game is from 2003 and has the pink car, but I've seen red cars from 2003 as well. I used to think red was from later runs, but that's not the case.
Pink is the same color as the car in the show, to me it's more authentic from that perspective only, but in general, it should not matter and I don't think one color commands more of a premium.
Quoted from Cserold:Nice meeting you and your wife at TPF, BTW. I pretty much agree. Ideal scenario would have been the pink car with the rest of the playfield using the richer colors. It does make a big difference when they are side by side...it's definitely not just the car
Same for us, nice putting a name with a face!
My game is March 2003, pink car.
Quoted from vbobrusev:Finished my backbox LED illumination. Standard light tube was removed. I do it from peace of wood and led stripes.
» YouTube video
Looks good! I did mine too, just fading effects.
Quoted from netman63129:I thought that too but I watched an episode the other day and the car was red.
Watch the opening of the show, it's pink. The only red car is the canyonero.
Quoted from Mando:Hey guys couple tech questions . My game plays awesome made alien invasion tonight !! Have two small "issues"
1. Every once and a while ball doesn't kick all the way to the uppper pf , a second attempt usually works .
2. On rare occasion the ball falls off just before the end of the monorail ramp and into the Outlane.
Game is slightly off level maybe that will help?
1. Normal as long as second attempt works. If not make sure coil plunger is striking the ball properly in the center and everything is tight. Can be done from underneath.
2. Check your level, including the ramp itself, may need to be shimmed with a washer.
Quoted from konghusker:So what settings in the menu or other set up changes make the modes easier to get to such as mystery spot?
One setting is to have the mode start be lit after each ball. That may be factory. I have mine set harder to light the mode start only after shooting a krusty/tv loop.
Quoted from sohchx:What exactly should I be shooting for during the skill shot, and how do I start multi ball? I knocked all three targets down at the itchy scratchy hole and the multi light was lit on the field. I then shot for the hole and made it, but no multi ball started. What am I missing here?
Best skill shot is comic book guy target, only other is kwikemart, I think.
I&S mb is started by knocking targets down three times, then hit the hole.
Quoted from Mando:How do you get to mystery spot ?
Complete all the hurry ups...I think.
Quoted from Monk:Completing all of the hurry ups will activate Secret Stash.
Thx, got it mixed up...so many things going on in this game!
Quoted from sohchx:I agree!!! I'm 2 days into ownership and am already overwhelmed lol
I'm 14 years in and still am learning new things. It's a truly amazing pin!
Quoted from Jonjon74:Anyone know where I can get a 5.0 CPU and Display ROM for my TSPP?
I purchased a set off eBay but the seller doesn't answer any emails.
Thank
thatpinballplace.com aka John Wart.
maybe send him an email through his website. Not sure what is going on, he's usually very reliable. I'd be a little patient as he is legit and a good guy to deal with.
I have no Cliffy's on my game, which i have owned nib since 2003. I have some minor wear in shooter lane with the black paint wearing off, but that's it. I don't think they are needed in a huo environment.
1 week later
Tspp is not brutally hard, hardly. Ball times can be pretty long, but you can set it up do its more challenging. You'll find it very different than your Metallica, which can be brutally hard. Tspp shines for its rule set, shot variety and theme integration. What is hard about Tspp is advancing to the wizard modes and completing them.
Game isn't working right if you started mb on a new game, yet only locked one ball and were awarded locks for balls there from the previous game. There is a setting in the menu to release the balls from the couch after each game ends, but any balls left up there do not count as free locks.
Why would the game award two free locks just because there are two balls held up there from the previous game? Seems like a bug in the code. No player should benefit from the previous players effort.
Quoted from Scott2dot0:I've owned my TSPP for four days so far. It's a blast, but it seems like a lot of the action is over after I get my first couch multiball stacked with a couple modes and maybe D'oh Frenzy and an I&S multiball. Alien Invasion is next and is VERY challenging, but after that it seems to cool off. What comes next? Do I keep restarting modes and repeating couch multi? Shoot for Pretzel multi? I watched Bowen's tutorial but think I'm missing something.
there is a lot more to do, are you completing all of the modes, or just starting them? do you have mode start setting to be lit only with krusty loop or at the start of every ball. the game is not that easy and it's a lot more than just starting a couple of modes and starting the mbs. secret stash. for each mode you complete, time is awarded for alien invasion.
2 weeks later
Tspp is not a drain monster. The left outline is the worst, but it's not too bad. On scoring, I'm afraid you'll have to learn the rules. Stacking TV modes with couch or itchy and scratchy MBs is a good way to build points. You can also set it so the modes are ready to start at the beginning of each ball, makes it a little easier than having to hit the Kristy loop. In general, tspp is not a high scoring game, if you can score 20-30 mil, you've done pretty well.
1 month later
Quoted from paynemic:New owner here. Sweet single owner huo. Just learning this monster of a game.
What are the must have mods?
Color DMD?
I'm losing track in my mind about which things need to be completed versus just started to get its respective wizard mode. Any easy way to remember?
The couch ramp on mine is very tough to make. Small flipper just doesn't give it the oomph. Normal?
Also, can one turn up the voice volume relative to the sounds? The call outs on this machine are real highlights for a Simpsons fan.
If it's true that to get the final wizard mode you have to be "successful" at everything, then is call this impossible. I got to Valinor but this is crazy.
Alien invasion is the main wizard mode, you don't need to complete anything to get there, just start all the modes. But, the more modes you complete, the more time you have to complete alien invasion as time is added for each completed mode. I have no idea about super duper extreme wizard mode, I'll never see that one.
1 week later
Given the discussion of mods...we have the aliens, school bus and kwikemart decal.
https://lermods.com/t/the-simpson-pinball-party-pinball-mods
Quoted from johninc:Yes, just get a hammer and knock those blocks off, they don't do anything, and the mirror blades look great.
What he said, take them off, held on with long staples. You may need some black paint to cover the bare spots when you remove them.
1 week later
Quoted from finnflash:Do you have to remove the original sticker to put on the Kwik E Mart sticker?
no, it goes right over it. it's permanent, but if you want to make it more temporary, you can put painters tape on the back of it and then adhere it. Not sure why anyone would want to see that original sticker, though.
1 week later
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Couple more pics
What color is that pink? It's great, just not sure I can have pink armor on a pinball machine.
Looks great to me. Light it up and put it on.
Quoted from PinballBJB:So, I got myself the repro of the Bart topper from the old Data East The Simpsons . Intention is to put it up as a topper on my The Simpsons Pinball Party . What's the Club consensus? Great idea? Or an unholy and sacriligious genetic splicing? In my defense, I did own the Data East Simpsons machine for several years back in the 90s.
Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
Reno, NV
1 week later
New magnetic cup holder for TSPP...
https://lermods.com/products/pinball-machine-magnetic-cupholders
1 week later
Quoted from toddsolus:yes I wired the solenoid backwards by accident. I was afraid that it was a blown transistor. a blown transistor would make the coil just lock on?
The diode on the coil won't matter because I changed it back to the old one......which I wired correctly
Yes. It's blown for sure.
Shoot krusty loop, light tv mode, shoot garage, shoot tv, start mode in that order. Start all the modes, get to alien invasion. That's the basic strategy, but there's a ton of other stuff in between, including numerous multi balls and things like treehouse modes that are readied by the number of shots to moes.
2 weeks later
1 month later
Quoted from Strummy:I tried to install random leds in the inserts and they ghosted like crazy. I put in nonghosting bulbs and have 0 issues now. I'm curious about the fade effect that led ocd will give.
I have an issue with the rollover switch in the Otto lane. It rarely registers. I'm not exactly sure what that switch actually does
Same here. I used cointaker ng bulbs and have no issues and no OCD board. I did have issues in lotr, however, and needed OCD board.
Quoted from at_t_2d:I noticed last week that several times during a game, the display would change to "* STERN PINBALL *, SIMPSON'S PINBALL PARTY, DISPLAY VERSION A5.00", but the game continued to play fine. Now that message is all always on the display, but otherwise the game plays like normal. I would appreciate any guidance on how to diagnose this issue. I have tried re-seating connectors but it did not have any effect.
Thanks
Sounds like power to your dmd is flaky. Reseat all the cables and make sure display rom is seated properly.
1 week later
Quoted from emkay:I've been meaning to replace mine as it stopped registering, but I hadn't really considered that it might need adjusting... can anyone briefly describe how that is done?
Push the fork down and bend the end of it up slightly. It's better to replace them, though. They aren't that expensive, pinball life sells them.
Quoted from moonduckie78:OCD is definitely a must have in TSPP. Day One upgrade for me when I bought this title. You can ALWAYS tell right away when someone doesn’t have it.
i don't have it on mine and don't feel I need it. I have no ghosting issues and the fading effects seem fine. I used CT frosted non ghosting bulbs. For LOTR it was very different for some reason. Lots of ghosting, same bulbs. I have the ocd board and like it for that game.
Quoted from herg:Sorry, but it does not do anything for flashers, only GI. I don't know about TSPP in particular, but I designed it to allow the GI to ramp on and off when the relay is turned on and off. Some games do this rapidly, causing a distracting flashing GI.
yes, baywatch is one of those games, i don't believe that TSPP is.
Quoted from brainmegaphone:Is it me or does EVERY “HUO” Simpson’s have just under 300 games played? Is that just the number that the seller thinks is believable?
To the OP - a great condition version of this game top of the mark is in the $4,500 range. You should assume that the game isn’t HUO and that if the game has latest software the 300 game counter is meaningless as well. Buy only on condition.
It’s higher than that now I think, I see them going for 5200-5500. Number of plays is meaningless unless it’s on original code.
Quoted from Strummy:Does anyone know why this screw and bushing is in the Otto lane? It's not stock is it?
Stock!
2 weeks later
Quoted from moonduckie78:Sometimes, when the ball goes behind the TV to start a mode, it takes the game a good 4 or 5 full seconds to realize the ball is back there and start the mode. Happening more frequently lately. Anyone ever experience this? Is a switch failing? It always EVENTUALLY starts the mode, but sometimes it takes a good 4 or 5 seconds.
Yes likely switch issue. Roll a ball in there is test mode, see if it registers consistently.
Quoted from MG7322:So hanging out Christmas Day, brother-in-law playing TSPP, comes up from the basement and says, “got a ball jam”. Go down to a couch multi-ball all jammed up at #19 upper right eject. Coil is not firing. Clear the jam and still no luck. Noticed the Left and right slingshot and garage door are down. Change the F7 fuse (20V DC Low power coils) and we are in business. Later on after everyone is gone, I notice that Flash lamp #25 is stuck on? (Flash: Itchy). Power down the machine and the flash lamp slowly dims out. It matches the 20V LED light on the I/O board in terms of fade out after power down. It was fine before the fuse fix. Looking at the I/O Power driver Schematic but kinda rusty on reading these prints. Traces to J6 Q25 Bridge 2? Is the rectifier toast?
After taking the picture and writing this bulb #25 is out. I don’t want to damage anything else. Thought I would share to help with my next move.
Flash lamp stuck on points to a bad transistor.
3 months later
Quoted from MK6PIN:trying to find the treehouse mod, but lost it.....some help?
Search for pinsider sparky, he has it. Mezel might have it too.
1 month later
Quoted from mjs2:Anyone know if the 2- #44 bulbs in the car headlights on the playfield ghost? buying bulk and wanted to know if need to add 2 non-ghosting 44s along with the rest of the 70 - non-ghosting #555 inserts. The GI - minus spotlights and flashers, should not ghost and should be all 44s and will just use those for the headlights if they do not ghost. If i am mistaken, please correct.
THX for your time as always... pinside is the best!
- M
They very well might. Any insert bulb potentially can ghost.
2 months later
Our version of a pincup for tspp
https://lermods.com/t/custom-pingulps
20180718_132650 (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from Damien:I notice my "shoot again" flashing during gameplay. Does this game require and OCD board if using LEDs?
Mine doesn’t. Using a non ghosting bulb?
3 weeks later
This might be competition mode, turn it off in the settings and see if that fixes the issue.
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:So, weasel, and D, your games do the same thing? 4 players are always "Team" play? I have 2 other Stern machines. 1 a year newer, and 1 a year older, and neither of those machines do this. It's so annoying when 4 people want to play.
1 week later
Quoted from Damien:So I've had the game for about a month now, and I'm finally starting to understand the rules a bit (though most of it is still confusing to me).
I've started AI about a dozen times, started Pretzel once, I think I started Daredevil, and tonight I started Scratchy's Revenge.
Getting these things started is difficult enough, but finishing them, especially all of them, seems just stupid difficult.
AI alone is pretty tough to follow with two couch shots needed, but doing all six modes is ridiculous.
I have a LOTR, and I'm pretty confident that I'll get Valinor one day, but TSPP isn't even in the realm of possibilities from what I've gathered.
I think it's a pretty cool game, but putting the SDMEWM that far out of each feels a bit cheap to me.
If you are getting to AI that easily, your settings are too easy. Change tv mode start to “off” at the beginning of every ball, this forces you to hit the krusty loop to light the tv.
Quoted from Damien:My game is running the latest (guessing that is 5.00) and the setting is OFF.
I've changed it to 5 seconds so that I can actually enjoy the game a little.
LOTR is the same, but I've opted not to change it, and I've been very close to Valinor a couple of times.
But with TSPP, and I don't know if it's just my machine, but the drains can be brutal! Like right off the launch, off a standup, and SDTM!
If You’ve been to AI a dozen times within the first month you’ve had the game, I’d think your game is set up way too easy. I’ve had the game since 2003 and only been to AI maybe 25 times (never got past 4 ball locks) and seen pretzel once or twice and I’m a decent player with a high score of a little over 200 mil. I’d consider opening your outlanes, changing any extra ball settings to difficult, changing modes to not be lit after each ball, etc. tspp is not an easy game to get through. Also, completing the modes is very important both for victory laps and for adding time to AI.
1 week later
Quoted from allsportdvd:I’m having an issue where the game isn’t registering the CBG skill shot, garage or moe’s ramp (maybe others?)
I assume they may be on the same row of switches? If so, what should I be looking for?
Thanks in advance
A broken common wire to start. Switch matrix will tell you what color wire to look for.
1 week later
Quoted from adamross:I'm considering adding Pinstadium lights, would love to get thoughts from anyone who has them installed. Worth it? Thanks in advance!
i thought TSPP was already pretty bright. I replaced my GI bulbs with 2smd bulbs and never noticed any darkness.
I added a small blue led strip in the back right and a white led strip in the trough. A little dark in the middle, but not too bad.
IMG_20181026_111010 (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from gliebig:Considering picking one of these up, but haven't played but maybe a game or two on one. Are games times on this pretty long? My friend said he sold his because he tired of the long ball times.
They can be, yes.
Quoted from koops:Got a very pristine HUO tspp today, bought from the first owner via their tech, goody bag and manual still stapled to the inside of the cab. No wear anywhere.
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Looked like it had been in storage for some time as it came with a few spiders inside A quick clean and its fairly perfect. Power plant decals are peeling off but that will be easily fixed.
I didn't see a key post about anything you should add to the machine to protect it. ie. common wear areas etc.
I assume I should add cliffys, mylar to the drops, mylar to the slings. Anything else?
Is there a way to stop the ball jumping the right out lane rail?
I would put a protector on the shooter lane as the paint tends to wear off. I’ve owned my game since 2003 and it’s the only protector I have on the game.
Quoted from sk8ersublime:My ball constantly jumps out of the monorail. Ive tried adjusting it, the screw, the machine is level, but sometimes it still flies out and goes right down the right outlane. i just live with it now
Bend the wireform just a little where it falls out.
2 weeks later
Quoted from ATL_Tom:Had a prob again last night that has shown up a couple times before. A buddy was having a great ball when he locked what I think was the second ball in the couch. The machine then ended the ball and awarded the bonuses. I'm not sure if there was a mode running or not but this isn't the first time it's happened. Any thoughts?
Game is losing track of the balls. Likely trough opto boards are failing.
I’ve owned this game since 2003, never beaten AI, farthest I got was locking 4 balls. Completing the modes is key as it adds time to AI. My high score on the game is around 240 mil.
1 month later
There is a switch in there, it is likely Needing adjustment or replacement. Can be done from under the play field.
2 months later
Quoted from MG7322:Anyone have some tips to the upper right saucer where the ball shoots up and lands in the pocket but the game does not register. When ball search is conducted it kicks out. I checked the switch test for this (#24 upper right saucer) and it registers. I adjusted the metal tab a bit but still nothing. You think the micro switch is still toast even thought it will register in test mode?
It seemed to get slower and slower to acknowledge the ball the past few weeks.
Thank you
[quoted image]
When you say it doesn’t register, do you hear the game sound of it ejecting, but the coil doesn’t fire it out?
If this is the case, This is a fairly common issue. You have to shorten the coil plunger travel. At the back of the plunger where it meets the rubber stop, affix something to it that is roughly 1/4” thick, like a piece of plywood or plastic. I’ve seen people use a beer bottle cap. Took me many year to address this issue, and including trying other coils, but this is all that worked. Fires perfectly very time.
If this isn’t the case, it’s the switch most likely.
Quoted from MG7322:Bottle cap spacer not installed.
Rolled the ball into it 20x. 1, 14,15 did not register and went into ball search. All the rest of the attempts it registered.
Bottle cap installed
Rolled the ball into it 20x 0 ball search. Looks like it did need the spacer after all.
Interesting.
Thank you![quoted image]
Nice job! I would put plastic or wood there so no shorts ever occur if the bottle cap gets loose.
1 week later
Quoted from Wildbill327:I’m close to pulling the trigger on TSPP, normally you can tell how much play the pin has seen through the shooter lane but the one I’m looking at had a bit of wear right where the shooter lane ends and the artwork begins. Is this a sign of high use? Any thoughts would be helpful, thanks.[quoted image]
Doesnt look like high use to me, still a lot of black paint in the shooter lane.
1 month later
Owned mine since 2003, haven’t put any protectors on except shooter lane where paint tends to come off. Game still looks like new.
Quoted from jcar302:Which shooter lane protector?
A while back i bought a documented HOU simpsons that's pretty much flawless.
Would like to protect things that are likely to get damaged.
Was going to get some cliffy's, but his shooter lane protector didn't look to protect any paint.
I was also worried about the ichy and scratchy hole too, that one will be ok unprotected?
The pin will never get heavy use at my house.
Thanks
The one cliffy sells, mounts under the apron just where the ball kicks out.
2 months later
Quoted from MarcG:What is a nice huo tspp going for these days? I have been out of the game for a few years. Looking to get back in and have a chance to buy one.
Probably 5-$6k for a documented clean game.
i Installed a shaker motor in my tspp today, pretty cool mod. I had it triggering off the upper left flasher (which is active on couch mb start), homers head flasher and the itchy flasher. Kind of cool to have this mod. I could have customized it to trigger off other flashers or solenoids. Took me about 20 minutes to install, it’s entirely plug and play and has its own power source that only comes on when you turn the game on. It’s made by Pinshakers, which we are now a distributor for. PM me if you are interested or ask questions here in the forum if you have any.
Quoted from Digduglus:Sounds neat. Wonder if i could get it running with my LOTR standard instead of jumping through hoops to get the normal one to work
Yep, it absolutely will work with lotr, same ability to customize. No rom or pal chips needed for lotr.
In fact, it will work with any whitestar or SAM game.
1 week later
Quoted from drummermike:Just went over my new TSPP. Put in all Comet led lighting and Tilt side art City Scape. Waiting on new rubber parts and some non-ghost lighting.
One light is out though. It is not the bulb. The skill shot light is out. I am not sure if there are supposed to be two red wires as on all the other sockets. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Bend the leads on the led bulb outward and see if that helps.
1 week later
Quoted from Grimstead:Hi, I have a multipart question for you TSPP owners out there:
Have any of you bought/made a LED Back Box light to replace the florescent tube?
And if you did; What are your opinions & what did you use?
Thanks in advance...
Here’s ours:
Quoted from Its_me_aj:I have an issue with my Otto kickoff. sometimes it kicks out too hard and bounce right back in the hole and other times it won't kick out hard enough to go into the lane. eventually it will give a service error and stop working. after ball search it will kick out just fine. sometimes it works just fine. Ive taken apart the mech and cleaned it, new coil sleeve, reflowed the coil connectors and everything and still no luck on fixing it. Any ideas?
Add a 1/4" spacer to the back of the coil plunger. You can use a bottlecap (I kid you not) or a piece of wood. Do a Google search and the fix will be revealed, or search this thread and I think it's in here.
Quoted from opt_prime:New member to the club - just bought an HUO TSPP with about 700 plays, which is my second pin. I'm still pretty new to the pinball scene, and not very handy when it comes to working on them, so please excuse my ignorance on some of these topics. I did as much reading on the "must do" list for upgrades, so I think I have a decent grasp on what they are, but could use some further help...
1. I need to get an NVRAM to replace the batteries - can anyone link me to a good NVRAM to get rid of the AA batteries?
2. My EPROM version 3.0, and I understand 5.0 is the most current. I also understand that one of the big sellers of these is no longer producing them, so I'm not sure of a reliable source for this.
3. The only major issue I know of with my machine is the piece which kicks the ball from the garage to the upper playfield NEVER does so immediately, and a ball search always occurs before it's kicked up. After some reading, this is supposedly what I likely need to replace, is that correct?
https://www.pinballlife.com/sternsegadata-east-vuk-vertical-up-kicker-fork-switch.html
Does this serve as not only a kicker, but it is also a "sensor" which detects when the ball has arrived? As I understand it, this piece can be replaced by removing 4 screws from the bottom of the playfield - and that's it? Just plug it in and reinstall the screws? Any more color on my issue and the fix would be appreciated!
You will need the display and cpu roms. I get mine from Dave astill, astill entertainment. He’s in Canada, but very reasonable and fast, always a good product.
For vuk, make sure upper playfield s properly aligned so ball shoots straight up.
Quoted from bicyclenut:New to the Simpsons Pinball Party club too. My game has v4.0 roms in it. To upgrade to 5.0, do I just need to replace the ROM at U210 and on the display board at U5? Or do i also need to replace the sound/voice roms too?
No need to replace sound roms.
Quoted from Rarehero:Maybe going through a moment of crazy, but thinking of possibly selling my TSPP in order to mix things up a bit. Out of space & might need the room for another game purchase. It will always be one of my favorite games, but I’ve had it for at least a decade, played it a billion times & don’t really play it much any more. I tend to gravitate toward quicker, less deep games these days...plus, I’ve still got LOTR if I need some depth. On the other hand, it’s prob the nicest TSPP I’ve ever seen, doesn’t have the blotch on Homer’s head, and the translite is autographed by a few cast members....although I could keep the translite and replace it with a stock one.
Talk me off the ledge...or push me over it. Lol.
Don’t do it, you’ll regret it. I sold my lotr instead. I’m in the same boat, owned since 2003 nib, but can’t sell it. Huge Simpson’s fan and to me it has everything I could ever want in a game from callouts to art to rules to shot variety and it’s built like a tank. Stern’s best effort ever. Now, there are plenty out there so you can always find another, but to me my game is special.
Quoted from Rarehero:That’s sorta what I keep thinking. Whenever I think I might have to choose a game to sell, in my mind I think it’ll be TOM. But then I play my TOM & I just get sucked into the classic B&W feel. As much as I love TSPP, sometimes I’m like “well, maybe I’m finally over that Whitestar feeling”. I’m buying 2 games from a friend, and I only have room for 1 lol. I *could* bring one to work to put in my office...but I feel like just letting something go is the more mature thing to do....but if not TSPP, what?
in your collection, the first out the door would be DW, owned it for 10 years, and to this day still can't get that music out of my head. Next would be FG. the rest I'd keep if I could. I recently sold my Iron man, I had owned it since new, it was a vault, great game, but don't miss it. I find that when I sell games, in most cases I don't miss them. I have a large enough collection to compensate. We have similar tastes, only ones I don't or haven't had that I wish I did that
you have are tron and TNA.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:what adapter did anybody with a topper use, and what plug. no extra plugs on the whitestar like the sams.
There is an auxiliary plug in the front of the game, right side, same as SAM
Quoted from dudah:I feel lucky to have a pristine HUO game.
I've seen routed games with the artwork faded on the start button/flipper buttons - how do I protect from this?
Clear decals? Nuclear rails?
Or will it be find in my basement where basically I'm the only one playing it?
Have mine since 2003, no flipper button wear, no protection.
Quoted from BigSilverPin:Need some help I am still having an issue with coil #19 not being able to clear multiple balls when they get stacked up during multiball (the ejecter behind Daredevil bart and to the right of the bully targets/otto lane). Was wondering if it was a coil strength issue or possibly the angle of the plunger? The mechanism has trouble clearing the ball, especially when multiple balls get stuck in the lane/hole. It also seems like the second ball leans on the first in the hole, preventing the front one from ejecting. Any advice regarding the coil or plunger adjustment? The noise and plunger fire, but the ball doesn't always leave the hole.
Thank you in advance!!
search my posts, there is a fix for that coil. Basically, you want to put a 1/4 piece of plastic, wood or even a bottle cap behind the plunger in the coil to shorten the travel. this will provide more of a kick to get it out of there.
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:yeah but im using that for color dmd, so I need a adaptor Im guessing????
Colordmd includes a split connection so you should have a connector available.
I put a shaker motor in my game, pretty cool. Have it going off with the red flasher in the back, which goes off on couch Multiball. Triggered it with a couple of other flashers too.
https://lermods.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fwilliamsbally-wpc-full-shaker-motor-kit
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:unfortunately I didn't install it, so I guess whoever did kept it.
it comes prewired, you can't remove it. you don't have an extra connection hanging off your dmd connection at the coindoor?
3 weeks later
Quoted from BigSilverPin:Need some technical help! The ball is getting stuck in the garage. The ejecter works, but the ball doesn't shoot up to the upper playfield until a ball search. The ball is in the saucer/ejecter, but it's like it doesn't know it's in there (bad sensor?). What should I check/adjust? I looked around the ejecter assembly and didnt see anything unplugged. Thanks in advance guys!
Bad switch. Put game in switch test mode and move the switch with your hand from under the playfield. Replace the switch.
Quoted from BigSilverPin:Nevermind! I took out the assembly and bent the y switch up with my hand to make it sit higher. Works fine now! Thank you Lermods and everyone else, I dont know what I'd do without this community sometimes
You are welcome, glad I could help and you got it fixed!
Quoted from mjs2:Thing is built like a tank, never stocked anything but balls and rubber replacements.
Same here. Game is rock solid.
Quoted from wayinla:Thanks! I thought so. So should the chart be updated to show “Start or Complete All TV Modes” to get to Alien Invasion?
Yes, but each completed mode adds time to alien invasion.
2 weeks later
There’s a fix for a weak garage opening. It’s in this thread, might be to replace the coil, but not completely sure.
1 week later
I've owned my game since 2003, hs is 256, never got passed AI, locked 4 balls though. Completing the modes is pretty important as it adds time to AI and the victory laps help boost your scores, particularly if you have a mb runnig. Getting super jackpots on couch mb also boosts the score a lot.
1 month later
Quoted from BigSilverPin:Hi all! I am replacing the VUK #6 (garage kick up to upper playfield) and the diode came off/needs to be replaced. Does anyone know what type of diode I need to order to reaffix to the y switch? I attempted to solder it together last night and am having very little luck.
Thanks as always guys!
you can use N1004, but it's also listed in the owners manual.
Quoted from BigSilverPin:Thank you! It also seems like my "quick connect" for the green wire to the middle fork came unattached. Can I just solder the two green wires to the middle, or do I need a new quick connect piece? thanks
you can solder it.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:I might be getting back in the club. I met a friend of a friend that has a TSPP sitting un-touched for years in his house. Its basically HUO. He tells me it works perfect and looks new. The guy doesn't know much about pinball, hopefully there is no battery corrosion. I haven't seen it yet, but I'm wondering what's a good price for a TSPP that has been sitting around for awhile with no mods or extras?
4500
Quoted from Fezmid:Based on the prices I was seeing when shopping for one last year, that feels really low. Great price if you can get it though!
Pricing for this game is all over the place, but typically between 4500 and 5500. I suggested the lower end because the game has been sitting for years unplayed with unknowns. if you've got battery issues, that's going to cost you a few hundred to replace. if you know the game works 100%, you'd be around $5k +/- a few hundred. there are a lot of these games out there so supply is not an issue and higher priced games tend to sit. check the code version, if it's original code with low plays, and it works, you've got a more valuable game. there are a few being listed for $6k+ I see, those will likely sit.
Quoted from RipleYYY:for those who know me, i'm (+ my son) a "player" (tournaments)
since its been available, our actual aim is to get a JP3 home...
but let's admit, seing STERN prob (playfield), we can wait without a doubt, for a nice HUO i can check before buying, and this in 2 monthes, 6 or even more
and than i'm here in this topic : we never get TSPP home, i feel this one may be a candidate (my son already like it, for the gameplay i mean) before the JP3
can you convince me to buy one ? as the main prob here is same as yours, the price !
in belgium, nice state TSPP are now +/- 5000 euros, i feel this being very hot, when, to compare, a STERN PRO NIB is 6200 :/
tanx
I dont know if I can convince you, but to me, it’s the best game ever made. Theme integration, rules, shot variety, call outs, artwork are all among the best ever done. It’s a tremendously deep and wide game. You’ve got your main tv modes and then you have side modes like treehouse of horror, pretzel mb, itchy and scratchy mb, Springfield mystery spot, hurry ups and multiple wizard modes, plus more. Many show voices are present. the only drawback to the game is ball times can be long. There is a ton of variety. I think it helps a lot if your are a simpsons fan, but it really captures a lot of the best in pinball. Plus, the game is very reliable and built very well.
Quoted from RipleYYY:tanx Lermods
well, not a Simpsons fan, but i like the theme
you already understand that we're more looking for something hard/deep
my son did, but to me never really dig playing this machine, because mostly played in tournaments & only when i was force to !
in fact i never take time to learn what to do & how to play this pin ! to me it was garage, garage & garage (and of course its not good as it)
recently i've watched McSirTuna videoand tanx to him, i've learned more than a lot (!!!), and thats also after this video that i wanted to consider a buy...
finally, thinking of it, my only barrier seems linked to the price
It's not just hitting the garage, and that can be made harder. The default setting is to light a tv mode at the start of each ball. Change that setting to light the tv by requiring a Kristy loop shot, game gets just a little harder.
Starting the modes gets you toward alen invasion, but completing the mode is very important. Not only do you get victory laps, which can score a lot of points when combined with a mb, but each completed mode adds time to alien invasion.
Like I said, there are other things to go for besides the garage, inuding the treehouse mores, itchy and scratchy mbs, Bart modes, hurry ups and mystery spot, pretzel mb and others I'm likely missing.
There is no deeper game than tspp...
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Well I'm supposed to meet the guy tomorrow and see if I can buy his TSPP. I'm curious, what does it take to install a color dmd? Are they plug and play, even with old ROM? Which one should I buy?
Thanks again for your input.
Plug and play, but you should install the latest cpu and display ROMs. I would get the LCD display and set it on hires.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Is there a brand name that you could recommend?
I get all my roms from astill entertainment out of Canada. Check out his site or email him with what you need. Reasonable pricing and good customer service. Doesn’t take long to arrive.
I don’t believe there is.
Quoted from agodfrey:Odd question. Didn't see it in the rule sheet so I figured I would ask. Is there an add a ball for any of the mutliballs in Simpsons?
1 week later
Quoted from adol75:Just out of curiosity, I've had my TSPP for almost a year now and realized, I've never had to lift up the playfield to fix anything. Compared to my WOZ it's a no brainer, I have to lift it at least once a week to fix or replace something.
Did I get specially lucky with this TSPP (and specially unlucky with my WOZ) or was it just a blessed time at Stern where build quality and reliability was a prime ?
Nope, tspp is built very well. I've lifted my playfield very few times since 2003.
1 week later
Quoted from xtravgiza:Trying to upgrade from 4 to 5 rom. Can someone confirm if it’s two EPROMs or one? I ordered this from Marco and want to ensure I have everything I need.
ame Qty Price Subtotal
Subtotal $15.00
Shipping $8.99
Taxes $0.00
Total $23.99
SIMPSONS PINBALL PARTY U210 EPROM 5.00 1 $15.00
You need the game rom and the display rom
Quoted from Da-Shaker:I've never updated the code on a TSPP before. Am I supposed to order the 5.0 ROM set, total of 5 chips? Then do the chips just unplug and plug the new ones in without soldering. Also is the nvram the same, just pull out the old and in with the new?
No, you just need game rom and display rom. No soldering needed.
2 months later
Quoted from Brog319:One more question... I just learned that the owner has not replaced the batteries in this game since buying it 16 years ago. Is TSPP one that’s prone to battery damage if they’re not changed? Thanks
Yes, but put nvram in and never worry about batteries again. It’s plug and play for tspp.
1 month later
Quoted from SHBR20:Thanks finnflash. I was careful to check the old chips when removing but since this is the first time I’ve done this it is possibile. I’d prefer to exhaust other options before buying new chips and NVRAM in the event they are installed correctly (and burning up the new ones). Thanks again.
Nvram is just memory, shouldn’t affect sound or display. Put the old Cpu and sound chips in to see if things work again.
Also, check that you seated those chips in properly and no legs are bent, easy to do that.
Did you remove any ribbon cables? Check those if you did.
Quoted from SHBR20:Got my new chips today and installed them based on all the advice. Was super careful. Unfortunately I am still having the same issues - no sound or display. All connections rechecked and seated properly. Except the below - does anyone know where those connect? If that doesn’t solve it does anyone know a good tech in Somerset County, NJ area? Thanks [quoted image][quoted image]
Can you show pics of your full driver/cpu board?
Paul drabek is up in your area I think and does repairs.
Quoted from SHBR20:Here are pictures of the boards - thanks and thanks for the info on Paul[quoted image][quoted image]
I have a different CPU/Sound board, you must have a later production game.
When you turn the game on and the coindoor is closed, are all of the leds on the boards lit?
In the upper left of the game's backbox, there is a high current board, is the fuse on that board good? Good meaning you pulled it and checked it with a meter.
1 week later
Quoted from Sandman454:Finally Glad to be a member now.
My second Pinball TSPP.
First Pin Tommy.
Just picked up TSPP a couple of days ago.
Playfield is in good condition, but the plastics are a bit beat up.
Got a bit of work ahead of me cleaning it up. Can’t wait to get modding as well.
Everything seems to be working and dialled in well though. Came with LEDs installed but no OCD board. And some of them need to be changed to different colour or brightness.
Anything I will need to keep an eye on and any info good parts to have as spares. Have a couple of mods ordered and didn’t forget the Kwick-E-Mart decal. Don’t know when it was made, as sticker has faded.
Much appreciated. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
We have the kwikEmart decal, $12 shipped.
https://lermods.com/shop/ols/categories/the-simpsons-pinball-party-pinball-mods
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:In the club and stoked about it
Family loves it
Wasn’t being overly picky just wanted it to be nice and turns out when I got it home it’s in very nice condition no wear on anything with just a handful of plays on it
So now I am concerned from reading on the game that wear can happen quickly so I was wondering if there was a check list to keep from getting any damage
Thanks ! [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I don’t think you need any protection in a home environment except maybe the shooter lane as the paint on the left side tends to come off over time. I’ve had my game since 2003 and have no protection anywhere except shooter lane, shows very little wear, nothing at the flipper buttons.
1 month later
Quoted from Moli410:Question for those with side blades. Is there any modifications you have to do to the inside of the cabinet in order to get the blades to sit flush? I noticed 2 small wood blocks that appear to be stapled to the inside that prevent it from sitting flush.
I had to remove those blocks to put in mirror blades. They are just stapled in so use a flat bat to pry it off.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Bospins:Hey Guys
Thinking about picking up a TSPP...I read through some of this thread but it's a lot!!
What are things to watch out for / inspect closely when looking at one of these?
How important are cliffys?
What are the must have mods?
If there is a post or two that provides answers to these q's....would appreciate steering me in the right direction
thanks.
There isn’t much to watch out for. Make sure garage opens and closes properly and that the couch holds and releases balls properly. That’s really about it from a mechanical perspective.
1 month later
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Hey guys im about to purchase a pretty mint stock tspp. What color would you recommended for the general illumination? Warm or sunlight white and what would you recommend for the inserts? Last how do I remove that black block on the right side. I want to put mirrors on.
If I recall, I pryed the block off of mine with the back of a chisel. I think it was stapled in.
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Hey guys i got another question. what would you recommend to replace the battery holder?
Nvram, it’s plug and play.
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Hey guys I have a question. My game rom is 4.0 I was going to upgrade to 5.0. Do I need new sound chips as well
You only need to change the display rom with the game rom.
1 week later
Quoted from StoneyCreek:Has anyone had trouble with an opto in the ball trough? I pulled the mini circuit board and visual inspection reveals no solder cracks or other telltale problem. the opto that detects ball stacking is not working. I'm guessing that one of the optos just failed. before I order a replacement board (hoping I can find one), is there anything else I should check?
Also, if working, what does the opto cause to happen? Say, if I start a game and the ejected ball bounces back into the trough...how does it remedy the stacked ball? I don't see how it can only eject a single ball if they are stacked. Wouldn't ejecting 2 balls create a multiball where there shouldn't be one?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Those boards are notorious for failing and are very cheap to replace. The optos sense and help track the balls, but I’m not entirely sure on the logic. You can see there are two optos on each board, one lower and one upper.
Quoted from StoneyCreek:I see in the manual there are 2 Opto boards, one transmitter the other receiver. Is there a way to diagnose which board is bad? If not,
I may have to just order both of them.
Not really, one emits light, one receives light. You can pass a piece of paper to break the beam to confirm which are bad, but often it’s intermittent because of vibration. You can try reflowing solder on the boards, but I’ve never had success with that as it’s likely the emitter itself failing. It’s just better to replace in this case, it’s literally like $8 for a board, at least it was, check Marco.
Quoted from pinster68:Thanks ... I saw them at Marco, but was unsure what I needed. They list various ROMs. Also, they’re $15 each. Is there a cheaper option and/or just a bundled set?
I get my roms from Dave Astill, Astill Entertainment. He’s in Canada’s but they are reasonably priced and he ships fast.
1 week later
Quoted from ralphwiggum:My vote is for LCD... Simply because the smoothing mode (dont remember the actual name of the display mode) looks like it was made for this game. Being that it is a cartoon title, it looks fantastic. It shows no pixels, and that isn't possible with the LED version of the ColorDMD.
yeah, agree with this. Since this is a cartoon, the hires setting on the LCD looks great.
Quoted from robertg130:Well new dress for my Simpson’s
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Wow, that thing was really beat up. Nice job restoring it. What does the rest of the game look like?
1 week later
Quoted from MajorDrainer:HELP PLEASE...Hello...My TSPP powers up but I get no display on backbox...Start button doesn't light up either...was working fine, just happened today...I'm a noobie and don't know much about repairs...I'd appreciate any help you can give me...Thanks.
Check your connections in the back box, reseat the ribbon cables. Any fuses out?
Quoted from bicyclenut:My wife and daughter had this made for me of our family. Needless to say I wont be selling my TSPP anytime soon. Love it!
[quoted image]
Cool. My wife had a similar one done of us in our game room, including our dog.
FF4DFF8A-2182-4FEF-B5C9-1EB568491B3D (resized).jpeg 3 weeks later
Quoted from StoneyCreek:I gotta brag a bit here. AFter having TSPP for 4 years now, I've finally gotten the Springfield Secret Spot...right after Alien Attack Frenzy! What a rush! 129,000,000+
I got it by winning 4 extra balls with Ramps, Mystery awards, and some other way that I didn't recognize.
I never cracked 90M before, or finished Alien Frenzy...locking 5 balls...before this.
Woo Hoo! Dont give up! Never give in!
I get to alien invasion frequently, but I’ve never beaten it. Best I’ve done is lock 4 balls. But, my high score is 235 mil.
One way to make the game just a little harder is to change the default setting for lighting the tv mode to hit the krusty loop instead of automatically lighting it at the start of each ball.
Quoted from StoneyCreek:My machine is set that the TV mode is only a freebee on the first ball, otherwise Krusty is required.
How did you get 235? did you go thru the modes twice?
It seemed like when I finished AA that everything reset, and it was like a fresh game with no modes lit, not I$S, etc... How did you get 235? did you have to relight all the modes again? My game took all of 40 minutes to play. it was a grind, but a fun grind!
No idea, but I frequently score over 100 mil, games are long, stock settings too. Super jackpots in couch multi ball help build the score. Completing modes and victory laps, especially when combined with a mb, score multiplier, etc. i have been through the modes twice in one game. But that damn AI I can’t complete and I have my game since 2003!
3 weeks later
Quoted from PinPickle:Thank you very much for the detailed explanation. I’m going to take a look this afternoon.
You don't even have to look at the flipper leaf switches. You can just go into switch test mode and push the flipper button to see if the flipper button registers. If it registers, it's not the leaf switch. If it doesnt register, then the next step is to look at the leaf switches.
Quoted from PinPickle:Even though my bottom flipper right flipper is working fine? I will go into switch test mode and try it ou.
Yes. When you play a game, if you lightly press the flipper button, only the lower flipper will move. A full press of the button and they will all move. It’s that full press you want to test. Try it on your working left flippers.
Quoted from Jahkub:The left flippers don't stage on tspp
Ok, so if his upper right flippers are locking on, but not the lower right, it’s not the leaf switches. I suggested transistors in another thread.
Quoted from PinPickle:Wow that was incredibly simple.
Turns out the metal flipper button nut fell off and was acting as a conductor for the switch.
Thanks again for all the help!!
[quoted image]
So why didn’t the lower right also lock on?
Quoted from Dr_Gonzo:New club member as of yesterday. Found a really nice 2013 machine. Good colors, slight flipper wear, and a couple of chipped plastics is all I see for flaws. It needs the latest ROM and of course color dmd. Couple questions, why isn't this ball guide straight? I looked at a lot of pics and some look like mine but others don't. Maybe since mine was an early version it was changed later? Also, I've seen NVRAM for $15 on some sites but bory's anypin is 40. Is there a difference?
[quoted image]
Mine looks like yours, I have a 2003 game. You can find nvram for about $15, search pinside.
2 months later
Quoted from zaki:does anyone know the product # for the flasher bulb.. i've never changed a flasher, but they look big when i took off the cover. are these standard size flashers? does anyone know?
Which flasher? They are either 906 or 89
Quoted from JimB:Just got mine back from being restored. I also added a pinsound board. The sounds are amazing. Besides the color dmd, the pinsound board is a must have. Thanks to James R for his incredible work. All bulbs were swapped. I already had the pin stadiums but these new bulbs really pop.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Those cabinet decals are awesome! Where did you get them.
1 month later
Quoted from JohnnyGee:Hi guys I'm have an issue with my upper right ball eject. The one for the Auto bus that's under the Moe's ramp. The ball try's to eject but never makes it all the way out and gets stuck there... I tried releveling my machine and I checked the coal test in the menu and it is firing just fine. But the ball doesn't make it out of the hole.
Your help is greatly appreciated!
[quoted image]
It’s a common issue, not clear what causes it. You can shorten up the stroke of the coil plunger by putting a zip tied bottle cap or piece of wood attached to the bottom of the coil stop. Sounds weird, I know, but it works. Search my username in this thread and you should find the solution.
Quoted from Acronymicon:I had version 1.5 of the game code for a week or so, and never had an issue with my Otto bus tour eject. The first game after upgrading to 1.6 it started to really struggle kicking the ball out, taking multiple pokes before it clears the scoop.
The 1.6 code mentions adjustments to the votlage supplied to the Otto coil, and Ive read Stern recommended going to a slightly more powerful coil, though Ive not tried it yet.
Tried that, didn’t really work for me. Shortening the plunger stroke was a 100% and cost less fix that took about a minute. Try it first before buying new parts.
3 weeks later
Quoted from MikeSinMD:Been a member of the club for a few years. Want to get a price check. What are these going for these days? Real nice HUO. Has color DMD, NVRAM, all cliffys, plastic protectors, manual, beefier inside cabinet corner plates, etc. thanks for any input. Mìke
i've seen them go above $7k for nice ones, but prices seem to be all over the map.
1 week later
Quoted from Paseb:Hey guys,
Going to see a tspp this week for a possible purchase. Pictures attached of the machine. Looks very good from the pictures.
Couple noob questions:
-how do I check the number of plays?
-other than wear under lock bar, wear on ball plunger and wear on holes, anything i should look?
-can I take a color dmd from one of williams 90s pins and plug it on a stern?
-can I take a pinsound card from one of williams 90s pins and plug it on a stern?
-led bulb, i use frosted 2smd cool white in all my williams pins, whats the best choise for a tspp?
-whats are the commun mods to purchase ?
Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
how do I check the number of plays? You can check in standard audits, but they won’t be accurate if code has been updated.
-other than wear under lock bar, wear on ball plunger and wear on holes, anything i should look? Does couch hold and recognize balls, garage stay open, Otto kick out working, tv working?
-can I take a color dmd from one of williams 90s pins and plug it on a stern? Yes, but you need different harnesses.
-whats are the commun mods to purchase ? We have a few at lermods.com
Quoted from Paseb:Hello guys,
2questions, is it normal i don’t have *shoot again* if the ball drains after a very shot period of time?
I reset the factory settings.
Is it normal that the lights on the board for tv mods is always lighted?
I thought after you completed correctly a mod, it would of light?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Is the bulb out for shoot again? Factory ball save I think is 5 secs.
Tv lights should not be lit until started. I believe you can cycle through them with the flippers.
1 month later
Quoted from monkfe:Question on rules, when starting a mode, you have 30 seconds to either finish, or get it into the otto saucer to restart the clock correct, or start another mode? I had situations where when attempting to reset via otto, the clock continues to run down? What am I missing here
Otto doesn’t start any modes, at least not a tv mode. More time is added to modes by hitting the stand up by the pop bumpers.
1 month later
Quoted from Paseb:45k today! Best score ever so far hehe
I lighted all the board but couldn’t figure out how to start alien invasion?
Only got one extra ball too
Start all of the modes and the board will have all its lights flashing in a pattern, shoot the couch to start AI.
Quoted from Biju:I think you just have to shoot the TV loop to start it, right?
Sorry, yes, tv.
3 weeks later
Quoted from Paseb:anyone installed a shaker in his TSPP ?
how do you like it? where did you connect it?
i purchased one for a future TWD but must of them already have a shaker, so im stuck with it lol
I did, from Pinshakers. Search my name in this thread, I think I detailed it.
1 week later
Quoted from PinPickle:Mirror blades… any issue with cointaker? Have decal blades but the adhesive sucks and I’m looking to pull them out.
None, have them on my game.
Quoted from PinPickle:Thank you
I should clarify, you do have to remove the blocks in the back, but they come off pretty easily. It’s been years, but I think I pryed them off with a screwdriver.
1 month later
Quoted from jackd104:Hey all. Question for those with the color DMD mod. From the ones I’ve seen for TSPP, the individual dots in the art are lost and everything is filled in with solid colors. In other games (most others) the dots are preserved but just colored. I really prefer the latter look. Just wondering is this a setting that can be adjusted in the mod for TSPP?
Yes, there are settings for the lcd colordmd that can make it look like a cartoon or with dots.
3 weeks later
Quoted from tectonyc:So my machine says its on 4.0. To upgrade to the latest 5.0, I need to buy the physical chip since it's a white star. Do I only need the "CPU/DISP ROM Set v5.0 from https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/the-simpsons-pinball-party-stern-rom-upgrade-chip-set/?attribute_pa_sternoptions=cpu-disp-set-v5-0
There are a few different ones marked Sound ROM
No need to change the sound roms, just cpu and display. got mine from astlll entertainment (pinballrom.com), quick ship even though he’s north of the border.
Quoted from Mattyk:I saw Mikespins was making these. A few posts before yours. Yours is an exact copy. Doesn’t seem right…..
They are on thingiverse, anyone can print one, but you aren’t supposed to sell them unless you get permission. Unfortunately, this has become the way for many on pinside lately.
Quoted from drummermike:Getting permission to use a donut seems silly! Nothing proprietary about a donut.
If you didn’t create it, you are taking someone else’s hard work and profiting off of it without giving credit. That is a licensed work people are selling without paying for the license. You want to use it for personal use, that’s cool. People selling it are asking $100+ for it, why not kick back $10-20 to the designer?
Quoted from mbl1116:While we’re on the topic of 3d printing, whats a good starter printer for someone looking to try it out
Creality Ender3, they are under $200 usually. Learning curve is steep, mainly on the design, but there are a ton of videos and info to help.
This is a good place to start and ask questions
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby
Quoted from mikespins:I agree, which is why (for me at least) all Creative Commons Attribution requirements are being followed. I did also get in touch with the original designer and did get written consent to modify his design and offer the product commercially. I also sent him a nice tip as a token of my appreciation and became friendly with him
Well done, I’m sure the designer very much appreciated it. People should be buying it from you.
1 month later
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Crickets…
Ok then, another question:
What is this orbit supposed to look like, I see some tiny holes by the school building art (speed holes?
and there is a short post with a hard plastic sleeve after the turn.
I uderstand this is to slow the down ball?
All good here?
Also, my game does not have mylar around the bumpers, like most games. This game was huo so not sure maybe all simpsons are like these.
Just checking
Please someone answer this thread lol
[quoted image]
I do not have those holes in my game, which is an original run from 2003.
3 weeks later
Quoted from cjchand:There are others in this thread that are true original HUO owners (Lermods, perhaps?) and can confirm, but I believe the consensus is HUO machines are likely safe from cabinet wear. Hopefully one of those folks will chime in.
Otherwise, agreed on the plain black lollypops. That’s what’s on my machine and I’m happy with them.
yep, I bought in NIB in 2003. Zero wear at the flipper buttons. I also have no cliffies installed except at the shooter lane and the game looks like new. The only reason I have it on the shooter lane is because the black line along the left side starts to rub off.
PXL_20220421_141727237 (resized).jpgPXL_20220421_141733721 (resized).jpgPXL_20220421_141830575 (resized).jpgPXL_20220421_141842280 (resized).jpgQuoted from Pin_Fandango:that is nicer than mine for sure and mine is VERYU nice, however I think my cab is a little faded? all the characters, except the front Simpson's family look a little washed out, I am not sure if it is faded or if its is like that naturally because the actual Simpsons look crisp.
How often do you guys maintain the orbit in this game. To prevent ball trails from baking into the clear I actually added mylar all around the orbit, that way I do not have to worry about ball trails there anymore, other than a clean now and then, which is a breeze now that the mylar is there...
Also what is the consensus with adding cliffys to protect all the ramps? My game is pristine really so would like to maintain it like this
the cabinets are generally all a bit faded, that's just how they came from the factory.
In terms of ball trails, I've found them to be most noticeable exiting the shooter lane. Once I start to see that trail, I wipe the entire game down.
I have no protection on the ramps and have had no issues.
the only area on my game where you can see some wear, besides the shooter lane, is the garage door. it shows a little bit of a dark line from where the ball hits it.
1 month later
Quoted from briyau15:Anyone experience an issue with their ColorDMD displaying the initial screen (attached) but then going blank after?
My board was just swapped as it was causing a different display issue noted previously but after we got this new board installed everything displayed and worked properly at the time on Friday. Fast forward to today I’m now only seeing the image above before it goes dark. I unplugged the display connections (power and ribbon cables) but get the same result. Thoughts?
The gameplay seems to be operating correctly but the display doesn’t show anything after the e initial screen.
Full disclosure, over the weekend I did move the pin location a few feet but checking the cables just now would have identified any loose connections.
[quoted image]
I don’t think this is your issue, but the latest display and cpu roms are 5.0.
Quoted from Moli410:Hey fellas, I need your assistance on my TSPP.
My game has been sitting for a while. Turn the machine on today for the first time, push start, eject a ball into the shooter lane. I launch the ball, it hits every target switch, pop bumper and doesn’t register any score or make any of the registered sounds. Ball drains into the trough and immediately kicks another ball into the shooter lane.
I had this problem a while back when I first got the machine but it self corrected itself and never had a problem since. But now it’s started again. Don’t know where to begin to look for this issue.
Sounds like maybe it thinks a ball has drained. Do you have all the balls accounted for? Go into switch test mode and see if the trough and shooter lane switches work with the balls, not your finger,
Quoted from Moli410:Turns out it was the battery. Pulled the battery, put a new one in and everything is working and registering.
Thx for following up. Not sure how battery could cause that since batteries don't do anything except save settings when the game is off. Do you see any corrosion from the batteries?
Did you do a factory reset?
1 week later
Search my name in this thread, I provided a solution. Basically, shortening the plunger length is the solution.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:Has anybody replace the coil at Otto’s saucer with something stronger? Mine seems to fail at kicking the ball just sometimes.
There is no mechanical issue or binding or anything weong at the coil upon inspection.
I know some have replaces the gerage door coil so I am wondering it the saucer needs more juice too?
I am not sure it my game has the updates garage coil. Dont think I need it but if I am doing the saicer will most likely do the garage as well.
By the way, I will be selling my game soon.
I decided that want something else. mint huo!
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:I see you recommend adding a spacer to the plunger.
Would it not just shortening the plunger (if it is plastic) by sanding provide the same effect?
Just asking because I do not have a spacer handy that fits there...
Got a cap from a beer or water bottle? They will work with a zip tie.
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