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failed on AI yet again, locked 4, but couldn't get 5...the quest continues... it's become a bucket list item to beat AI.
The ones that have the pink car more accurately reflect the colors in the show. I think they are from the earlier runs 03/04. In later runs, the car is red.
You need to replace the display (on back of dmd) and CPU roms, when your machine starts up, if it is set to slow boot, it will tell you what version you are running. You can change boot speec in the adjustment menu. I bought my machine in 2003 and only upgraded to the newest roms recently. I didn't notice much difference, but they are cheap.
Not sure, go to sterns website to see when the last updates were done, it's listed by date. It's very easy to tell, should be printed on the chip in your machine.
No, I love the treehouse modes as is, never completed nuclear disaster and Apus giveaway is pretty funny.
Quoted from njg:
Just picked a huo game but having trouble making the left ramp consistently. Anyone else find that shot really difficult ?
Great game. Can't believe how many modes there are
You mean the treehouse shot? It's the toughest shot in the game. Much easier to make the penguin loop in RBION
Quoted from kwiKimart:
Just GC'd mine and finally reached AI and Scratchy's Revenge!!!
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You got to AI and only got 60 mil?? I think the lowest I've scored getting to AI is like 75, but usually closer to 125 on average when I reach AI, which is maybe every 10-15 games. Keep in mind that each mode you complete adds time to AI. In addition, victory laps can add up if you can complete two or three in a single ball. It's not that easy, but is doable if you have mb going. That said, 60 mil is a respectable score.
I had the same issue. I reflowed the solder on the coil connections and that worked.
Quoted from dendoc:
Getting the upper play field off is easy - just 3 large black nobs to unscrew and lift clear of the flippers. The TV is easy to remove as well to get to the switch behind. Just may need a little bend to make it more prominent to register. Rarely does it need resoldering. I've had one switch give up - at the base of the upper play field VUK. This is easy to access from under the whole play field - so just unscrew and solder in a new one.
I don't think You can just undo the three thumbscrews and lift the PF unless you want to pull your wires apart. You have to also undo three connectors underneath the PF, including one for the tv, which is a z connector. You'll need to feed the wires through from the bottom or they will snag, helps to have a helper pull from the top while someone else feeds from the bottom. It is easy after you do it the first time. Sounds like you've done it, but I did not have enought slack to pull the PF up with all the wires attached.
While you have it out put LEDs in the bulbs sockets and all around that area. I'd replace the switch in question as you could button it all back up and still have the problem...though seems it has been fixed for now
Quoted from scottslash:
Finally!!! After a year of heavy play, I finally FINISHED Alien Invasion! 5 balls locked. All other mini-wizard modes I've completed multiple times -- never in same game -- but this is the first time to finish Alien Invasion!! Woo hoo!!
Congrats, I've never done it since I've owned it, 2003. Locked 4 balls, but that's it. It's very hard to do. I'm a decent player, my high is like 206 mil on 3 ball.
Soldering is not hard, practice a bit. It's a great skill to have for pinball. I was in the same boat as you about a year ago, now I look forward to doing it.
Welcome to the club! That number of plays isn't accurate because your chip shows v4, which means it's been upgraded from the original version. When you change roms, everything gets erased. You have 1568 on v4.
Quoted from Rickwh:
The kwikemart plastic with a shake and a hotdog on mine has a plastic clip on it like it would hold a wire. I dont see that on other pics of this machine. Anyone else see this before?
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Mine has the same clip. No idea what it is for. Bought mine nib in 2003.
Quoted from ralphwiggum:
Those are the original batteries and I am willing to bet that the number of plays is accurate. They didn't keep shipping out all TSPP with the same code. they made the game for many years, and as new code came out, they shipped the game with that code.
That is actually a very clean/low use TSPP. Nice find...
Good point! I stand corrected.
google john wart roms. you will lose your high scores and all other settings, including the free play setting
My guess, the rubber reduces vibration and/or provides a spacer. Likely stopped doing it to save time and cost. I like them.
I've been working on a Kang and Kodos mod, I think it came out pretty nice, suspended over the playfield.
I recently removed the mini PF, Yes, there are three or four connectors below. This was an easier task than I thought. Replace all the bulbs in the area and under the mini PF while you have it off.
Quoted from ahdelarge:
So, you have to disconnect the connectors under the main playfield or below the mini playfield?
Yes, I plan to fully led the machine, so will be cleaning and putting leds in while the mini playfield is off.
Under the main playfield, nothing to disconnect under the mini PF. Make sure you label everything and the direction they get plugged in.
Only the krusty loop can enable a mode to be ready. Sometimes mystery will light it too. That's it. There is a setting in the menu to light it after every ball, you can turn it off to light only with the loop shot to make the game harder.
Quoted from gweempose:
That's interesting. How many plays does your game have? Did you do anything at all to protect that area (i.e. Hard As Nails)? Mine is a relatively low play HUO machine, and it has a little wear at the left side of the I&S hole. There is also some slight wear in the shooter lane. The rest of the playfield is perfect.
No idea, but it's mostly me that plays it. Looks like new. Maybe 1000 plays?.
Hit both flippers at the same time when its in Otto or in the couch and it will release quicker, skipping the animations.
Quoted from rai:
On my machine occasionally the ball will be in I&S scoop and the middle target will be up and the ball will try to eject with the middle target up once and then the target will drop and it will eject. Is that normal?
What code version are you running? Code updates were supposed to have fixed this by dropping all targets when ball lands in the hole. If you don't fix this, your target will break at some point.
Quoted from rai:
I've older code but have bought new rom, is it hard to install?
Not hard. Use a small flat head screw driver to gently pry the old rom out. When you put the new rom in make sure the notch on the chip is oriented to match the notch on the board, or just remember how it was when you took the old one out. You need to replace both the display and game rom. 5.0 is the latest. Make sure you don't bend the legs on the rom and that they are all in the right holes.
Quoted from akm:
Just now going through this thread, I wanted to follow up on this old post. I just wanted to say that my car is red and it was in one of the early batches (Feb, 2003). So, it seems early runs also had the red car.
Good to know, thanks for clarifying. I still think the pinkish car more accurately reflects the car on the show. Not sure why they used red and switched back and forth. I see a lot more red cars than the pinkish ones.
Nice game, color dmd looks great on tspp. I think that might be my Kang and kodos mod!
I have superbands on all my tspp flippers. No issue with the couch shot. I don't make it every time, but it's not an issue to hit it. I doubt it's the flipper rubber, causing you to miss, maybe check the flipper mechs underneath.
Congrats. The basic strategy is to start the tv modes. If the yellow arrow by the tv is lit, shoot the tv to start it and then hit the flashing inserts. For monorail mode, let the ball drain down the month rail ramp 5 times I think it is. If the yellow tv insert light is not lit, shoot the right orbit, known as the krusty loop, to light it again, rinse and repeat. Do that for all the modes and you will reach alien invasion. You don't need to finish the modes to start AI, but for each mode you finish, more time gets added to AI. Plus, finishing modes can give valuable victory lap scoring. That is just the basics, there are many more modes not associated with the tv, read the rule set for those.
got this TV from McDonalds, turned it into a mod...nothing like the TVs using the rasberry pi, but for $2, can't complain.
Owned nib since 2003, never beaten AI, farthest I got was 4 balls locked. My high score is 211mil on factory settings, including outlanes. I do, however, have one fixed score extra ball at 15 mil for guests.
Quoted from uncivil_engineer:
I picked up a nice HUO TSPP last week, and between me and my kids, we have had a blast playing the snot out of it.
I have noticed one thing that is bothering me about the machine. When the ball drains, the machine won't register it until you hit the flippers. At first I thought this was an issue with the trough switches, but when I go into the ball clear test the trough switches appear to be working fine. The ball will fire out of the launch lane, and return to the drain, and the trough switch instantly registers it. It is making me wonder if this is a software issue. The machine is running 4.0 roms.
Has anyone else encountered this issue?
The trough switches may be registering, but the trough boards may be an issue. Take the balls out of the game and put the game in switch test mode. What does it show as being active? Should be Homers head and that's it I believe. If it shows anything in the trough that's your problem. While in test mode, hit the flippers to see what activates.
It's your display rom version located on the back of the dmd. Latest is 5.0. replace it and the game rom version to upgrade.
What happens to the ball in the garage? Does it get sent to the upper pf, or does it just sit there? Is the game going through a ball search? Do you have the right number of balls in the game, 5.
I don't have a switch matrix in front of me, but I would see what number switch the vuk is and then see if it is on the same row or column as one of the trough optos. Sounds like a trough opto is being triggered by the vuk switch. That would be a playfield wiring issue.
Row 7 has 5-ball stacking opto (15) and upper left vuk (55), which is the one I think you are referring to. Go into switch test mode and activate the vuk switch if you can access it and see if anything else registers.
It's in the standard adjustments menu not diagnostics. Also, you can't adjust just one coil, it's all or none.
The red color of the car on the playfield is inaccurate in reference to the show. The car in the show is pinkish. No idea why they switched. If I had to choose between two side by side, I'd choose the pink one. The canyonero was red, but don't think it's a canyonero they are showing. Call me a Simpsons snob
Quoted from scottslash:
Unlike most others (people and games) I prefer dots on TSPP. Kinda fits with the dots on the TV and gives it more of a carnival look.
Speaking of carnival, I rode the Simpsons ride at Universal Studios Hollywood last Sunday. It's one of the park's, like, *5* simulator rides, but very funny stuff!
I've ridden it a few times, makes me sick, just like all the other simulator rides. But, it is a cool ride.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:
With all the talk about the problems with the new Stern playfields lately, I was wondering how everyone's TSPP playfield compares. I was also wondering what issues anyone has had with their machines in general. I have had mine since April, it was made in '04, am very happy with it and the minor issues I have had (which are all remedied) are the garage ramp breaking, the upper playfield right flipper sticking up occasionally, the right flipper switch going out, playfield dirt coming back quickly, and that's it! No ghosting or lifting of any inserts, or any abnormal wear. I am thinking that the new Stern playfields are mylar coated and the adhesive is releasing in places.
No problems for me...nib owner since 2003. Game is a tank.
Got to alien invasion again tonight, locked 4 of 4 and couldn't finish....sigh. Never completed this mode. Final score 111 mil, 30 minute game.
Quoted from Cserold:
Rick, thank you. Did you take the TV off before taking off the UPF or is that not necessary?
Tv can stay. There are three or four connectors underneath the playfield, including one for the tv, label and unplug them, then remove the three thumbscrews and the pf lifts right up. If i were you, i would put leds under that playfield so you never have to remove it to change a bulb.
Quoted from Cserold:
Not yet. I've got a tech coming out on Saturday and going to watch him do it first.
Hopefully you arent paying him to remove the upper pf, its really very easy to do. Once you do it, it will give you confidence to do other things.
Btw, in addition to replacing bulbs on the upper of, replace all of the gi bulbs in that area especially the one(s) by comic book guy, which cannot be accessed from underneath.
I had incandescents in my tspp for 12 years. Added LEDs and never looked back. I don't feel an OCD board is needed for my game.
It's definitely smoother and makes the lights look less neurotic, but on its own you can't tell so much. With LOTR, there was a lot of flickering and even minor ghosting despite using ng bulbs. Don't get me wrong, it's a fantastic product, but on tspp, I just don't feel it bothers me. Baywatch was a massive improvement, not only did it remove the harshness of the bulbs, which were almost blinding in some modes, it stopped the relay clicking in the backbox.
Quoted from emkay:
You really seem to want to be downvoted but nobody has yet. I only use that button for posts that exemplify the aspect of Pinside that makes me want to avoid most of the hot threads.
Personally, I'd love to hear what y'all have done with your cooling towers on the pops. I've got some bright white LEDs without lenses in there right now but the plastic doesn't diffuse them much and I don't like how they look, being able to see the diode package pretty clearly. Some of the pictures posted in here look green or purple and I like that much better, just haven't gotten around to fussing with them. I forget whose I saw looked like it had a cotton ball in there or something, which looked really cool to me.
i put green 555 leds in the towers, frosted.
Quoted from Jakers:
Can anyone give me some input on Mezel Mods KWIK-E-MART DECAL? I would like to purchase one but when I look at the picture they provide on their website, the decal looks low quality. Almost like it's filled in with a sharpie marker and hand cut with scissors.
I mean no disrespect to Mezel Mods. I have ordered other things from them and have been very satisfied. The picture of the decal just makes me wonder if thats a prototype or the final product I would receive.
We are the manufacturer of the decal sold through Mezel. In fact, that pic is of a prototype, our first one and the one that is still in our game. We probably need to take it out and put a new one in to have a better picture. It is not colored in with a sharpie and is a high resolution print as you can see in the pic below. We do hand cut the decals.
Edit: This question reminded me that I needed to replace the decal in my game. New pics below. Looks great to me!
Have you tested the switch in test mode? I doubt it's not working because it's dirty.
Quoted from atwong:
What does everyone use to clean the pad that scores the skill shot comic book guy. When I make the hit, it's not registering. I'm thinking it's a dirty contact. I was thinking of spraying it with Electrical Contact Cleaner but I don't see anyone posting with product. Thanks!
Quoted from Twirt:
Factory reset didn't do anything. Although I was just playing a game and the couch actually locked the balls. Is there anything special you have to do (gameplay-wise) to get them to lock? I always thought it was hit the lock target in upper playfield and then hit ramp/couch. But 95% of the time the balls dont lock in the couch and drain to the lower playfield.
I also noticed that the last time the multiball actually worked, the couch released all 3 balls at once. I thought they were supposed to come one at a time?
Thanks again for the help.
Is the green lock insert lit when you hit the couch? If not, it releases the ball.
Quoted from TimberOne:
Purchased a tspp a few weeks ago, it is in great shape, not too many mods. I really like the led pop so that is probably the first on the list. Last game i bought a kit, but was not thrilled, ended up mostly replacing most to my taste and fixing ghost issues. I am planning on comet leds. Anyone have a bulb list or suggested bulbs to start from? That would be a huge timesaver if so!
I read the other posts and looks like i will need the ocd also! So it begins...
you may not need the OCD board. Comet 2835 bulbs are typically good, definitely in the GI sockets. In my game, I have all non-ghosting bulbs from Cointaker and have zero ghosting issues. I don't have an LED OCD board, but OCD is much more than just ghosting, it is the fade effects. I went for a very long time without LEDs in this game, but I do like it better with them.
Modded my backbox, removing the tube and replacing with leds. I have warm white strips on the bottom half and colored strips on the top. These are not tied to the game, just have some fading effects installed.
Bad switch, adjust or replace. Can be done from underneath. Basically, switch isn't registering when ball lands in the saucer. Buy more than one switch, they are common on the game.
What code are you running? Older code didn't properly dropen the targets. Newest code is 5.0.
Should be 5 balls with I&S and couch mb running.
So maybe I misunderstood. You are saying the ball exits the i&s hole fine, but hits the flipper or somewhere else and bounces back in the hole? The targets are supposed to drop whenever hole switch is hit so not sure why yours aren't resetting. Try a factory reset to see if it helps or try to change the angle of the coil so the ball hits somewhere else and doesn't bounce back in the hole.
Quoted from Cserold:
Are you sure? Thought the I&S multiball just added another 1 ball to the playfield. So if you have 3 running in CMB, wouldn't I&S just add another 1 ball for a total of 4?
Pretty sure my game runs 5 balls if you have couch and I&s running together. I'll double check tonight.
Quoted from Cloud7:
All of the sudden my start button seems to be less responsive almost intermittent. Any idea what to look at?
Test it in switch test mode, still intermittent?
Check connections, still not working?
Remove the switch from black housing and test it again, still not working?
Replace the switch. $5 at pinball life. You'll need a diode.
Switch is removed from housing by turning it in the black housing (counterclockwise if you are looking down at it) then pull it out.
Quoted from jalpert:
If there is no code in the game to trigger the shaker, adding a shaker is dumb. Sometimes people will connect them to flashers or something else, but without discrete shaker code it's a waste of time.
Not necessarily. I have one in my baywatch that is not supported by code. Works when the solenoids go off, so in the bumpers it feels nice.
how these games only sell in the 4K range is hard to understand. Deep rule set, great artwork, show voices, tons of shots and modes and a theme integration that is among the best there is.
The pinkish car in the game matches the car in the show. Don't know why they switched to red. I prefer the pink car.
Quoted from multibrawlr:
During Springfield Mystery Spot, you have to make all ten double scoring shots. Then, the garage door closes. You must hit the door and make a solid shot into it--all within a few seconds before it closes again. Doing so yields the super jackpot and you "win" Mystery Spot.
You get to Daredevil Mania by completing all four Daredevil modes. It's an untimed round where you must score 5 million points through shooting everything--bumpers, loops, ramps, targets, ect. Once you meet that quota, Daredevil Mania is completed.<blockquote
Collect all six hurry-ups, then hit Comic Book Guy one more time to start Secret Stash. Every hurry-up begins flashing, and are worth a countdown value of 500,000. Collecting one stops, awards, and resets the value. The Comic Book Guy can be hit at any time to reset all hurry-ups. There's also a 2 million bonus award for making all six hurry-ups *without* hitting Comic Book Guy. To beat Secret Stash, you must collect ten hurry-ups.
*Alien Invasion you get from at least starting all seven TV modes and then shooting the TV a final time when they're all over. It's a mode where you must lock a certain number of balls. Phase 1 involves locking two balls. Do so, and then you must lock three balls in the second stage, ect. The final stage tasks you with locking all five balls. Losing a ball when the ball saver is off moves you down a stage.
One ball can be locked in Itchy & Scratchy and Springfield Elementary, and two balls may be locked in the couch (the lit arrows/shots tell you which shots are available for locks). The timer is determined by the number of TV modes you've completed. Lock all five balls in the final stage to beat Alien Invasion.
*Scratchy's Revenge comes from playing through all four Itchy & Scratchy multiballs. Shots score jackpots, counting down to a super at the Itchy & Scratchy saucer. Super is lit at 15 jackpots - the number of super jackpots you've made in the other four multiballs. Get a super jackpot, and you win Scratchy's Revenge.
* Another goal for Super Duper Mega Extreme Wizard Mode is to make all 5 super jackpots in Couch Multiball.
* Pretzel Multiball is not a goal for SDMEWM, but is still there. Requires 26 Cletus Kids (or 26 left orbit shots). I don't know the rules to this one.
* Don't forget about the Treehouse of Horror modes if you want to capture those. Many of them available are timed rounds like Nuclear Disaster, Krusty's Nightmare, Apu's Giveaway, Captain's Bounty, and Crazy Extra Ball (light Treehouse by making enough right ramps, then shoot side left ramp to collect).
Phew. Hopefully that makes a little sense and helps with your project.
Plus reverse flippers, which I think is part of springfield mystery spot?
Nunclear disaster hits are the bumpers. I've never completed it. Best think to do is hit the Kristy loop and have a mb going.
Quoted from sohchx:
Hey guys, I have a question. What mods for this game are actually worth the money for this game outside of Cliffy's? I'm not talking cosmetics, I'm talking must haves in terms of protection and reliability. I have found some super nice, highly modded examples that I am contemplating purchasing but can't really figure out what mods on them I can do without. Are mods for this game easy to sell? Because I am thinking that's the route that I will go IE: strip the mods that I don't need and sell them. Can't seem to find a bone stock example which is what I ideally want to start with to tailor it to my liking.
So, if you don't want typical mods like lighted figures, etc, the game needs absolutely nothing. I have my game since I bought it in 2003 nib and I've done nothing to it in terms of protection or reliability except nvram. I wouldn't spend a dime on anything, the game is rock solid. If it's going to be huo, not even cliffys are needed. Mine still looks like it came out if the box and plays that way as well.
Edit: of course, if you want to add mods like the school bus, Kang and kodos and kwikemart sign, check out our pinside shop or we site
The years don't matter. My game is from 2003 and has the pink car, but I've seen red cars from 2003 as well. I used to think red was from later runs, but that's not the case.
Pink is the same color as the car in the show, to me it's more authentic from that perspective only, but in general, it should not matter and I don't think one color commands more of a premium.
Quoted from Cserold:
Nice meeting you and your wife at TPF, BTW. I pretty much agree. Ideal scenario would have been the pink car with the rest of the playfield using the richer colors. It does make a big difference when they are side by side...it's definitely not just the car
Same for us, nice putting a name with a face!
My game is March 2003, pink car.
Quoted from mandelbloom:
Hey guys couple tech questions . My game plays awesome made alien invasion tonight !! Have two small "issues"
1. Every once and a while ball doesn't kick all the way to the uppper pf , a second attempt usually works .
2. On rare occasion the ball falls off just before the end of the monorail ramp and into the Outlane.
Game is slightly off level maybe that will help?
1. Normal as long as second attempt works. If not make sure coil plunger is striking the ball properly in the center and everything is tight. Can be done from underneath.
2. Check your level, including the ramp itself, may need to be shimmed with a washer.
Quoted from konghusker:
So what settings in the menu or other set up changes make the modes easier to get to such as mystery spot?
One setting is to have the mode start be lit after each ball. That may be factory. I have mine set harder to light the mode start only after shooting a krusty/tv loop.
Quoted from sohchx:
What exactly should I be shooting for during the skill shot, and how do I start multi ball? I knocked all three targets down at the itchy scratchy hole and the multi light was lit on the field. I then shot for the hole and made it, but no multi ball started. What am I missing here?
Best skill shot is comic book guy target, only other is kwikemart, I think.
I&S mb is started by knocking targets down three times, then hit the hole.
maybe send him an email through his website. Not sure what is going on, he's usually very reliable. I'd be a little patient as he is legit and a good guy to deal with.
I have no Cliffy's on my game, which i have owned nib since 2003. I have some minor wear in shooter lane with the black paint wearing off, but that's it. I don't think they are needed in a huo environment.
Tspp is not brutally hard, hardly. Ball times can be pretty long, but you can set it up do its more challenging. You'll find it very different than your Metallica, which can be brutally hard. Tspp shines for its rule set, shot variety and theme integration. What is hard about Tspp is advancing to the wizard modes and completing them.
Game isn't working right if you started mb on a new game, yet only locked one ball and were awarded locks for balls there from the previous game. There is a setting in the menu to release the balls from the couch after each game ends, but any balls left up there do not count as free locks.
Why would the game award two free locks just because there are two balls held up there from the previous game? Seems like a bug in the code. No player should benefit from the previous players effort.
Quoted from Scott2dot0:
I've owned my TSPP for four days so far. It's a blast, but it seems like a lot of the action is over after I get my first couch multiball stacked with a couple modes and maybe D'oh Frenzy and an I&S multiball. Alien Invasion is next and is VERY challenging, but after that it seems to cool off. What comes next? Do I keep restarting modes and repeating couch multi? Shoot for Pretzel multi? I watched Bowen's tutorial but think I'm missing something.
there is a lot more to do, are you completing all of the modes, or just starting them? do you have mode start setting to be lit only with krusty loop or at the start of every ball. the game is not that easy and it's a lot more than just starting a couple of modes and starting the mbs. secret stash. for each mode you complete, time is awarded for alien invasion.
Tspp is not a drain monster. The left outline is the worst, but it's not too bad. On scoring, I'm afraid you'll have to learn the rules. Stacking TV modes with couch or itchy and scratchy MBs is a good way to build points. You can also set it so the modes are ready to start at the beginning of each ball, makes it a little easier than having to hit the Kristy loop. In general, tspp is not a high scoring game, if you can score 20-30 mil, you've done pretty well.
Quoted from paynemic:
New owner here. Sweet single owner huo. Just learning this monster of a game.
What are the must have mods?
I'm losing track in my mind about which things need to be completed versus just started to get its respective wizard mode. Any easy way to remember?
The couch ramp on mine is very tough to make. Small flipper just doesn't give it the oomph. Normal?
Also, can one turn up the voice volume relative to the sounds? The call outs on this machine are real highlights for a Simpsons fan.
If it's true that to get the final wizard mode you have to be "successful" at everything, then is call this impossible. I got to Valinor but this is crazy.
Alien invasion is the main wizard mode, you don't need to complete anything to get there, just start all the modes. But, the more modes you complete, the more time you have to complete alien invasion as time is added for each completed mode. I have no idea about super duper extreme wizard mode, I'll never see that one.
Quoted from finnflash:
Do you have to remove the original sticker to put on the Kwik E Mart sticker?
no, it goes right over it. it's permanent, but if you want to make it more temporary, you can put painters tape on the back of it and then adhere it. Not sure why anyone would want to see that original sticker, though.
Looks great to me. Light it up and put it on.
Quoted from PinballBJB:
So, I got myself the repro of the Bart topper from the old Data East The Simpsons . Intention is to put it up as a topper on my The Simpsons Pinball Party . What's the Club consensus? Great idea? Or an unholy and sacriligious genetic splicing? In my defense, I did own the Data East Simpsons machine for several years back in the 90s.
Quoted from toddsolus:
yes I wired the solenoid backwards by accident. I was afraid that it was a blown transistor. a blown transistor would make the coil just lock on?
The diode on the coil won't matter because I changed it back to the old one......which I wired correctly
Yes. It's blown for sure.
Shoot krusty loop, light tv mode, shoot garage, shoot tv, start mode in that order. Start all the modes, get to alien invasion. That's the basic strategy, but there's a ton of other stuff in between, including numerous multi balls and things like treehouse modes that are readied by the number of shots to moes.
Quoted from Strummy:
I tried to install random leds in the inserts and they ghosted like crazy. I put in nonghosting bulbs and have 0 issues now. I'm curious about the fade effect that led ocd will give.
I have an issue with the rollover switch in the Otto lane. It rarely registers. I'm not exactly sure what that switch actually does
Same here. I used cointaker ng bulbs and have no issues and no OCD board. I did have issues in lotr, however, and needed OCD board.
Quoted from at_t_2d:
I noticed last week that several times during a game, the display would change to "* STERN PINBALL *, SIMPSON'S PINBALL PARTY, DISPLAY VERSION A5.00", but the game continued to play fine. Now that message is all always on the display, but otherwise the game plays like normal. I would appreciate any guidance on how to diagnose this issue. I have tried re-seating connectors but it did not have any effect.
Sounds like power to your dmd is flaky. Reseat all the cables and make sure display rom is seated properly.
Quoted from emkay:
I've been meaning to replace mine as it stopped registering, but I hadn't really considered that it might need adjusting... can anyone briefly describe how that is done?
Push the fork down and bend the end of it up slightly. It's better to replace them, though. They aren't that expensive, pinball life sells them.
i don't have it on mine and don't feel I need it. I have no ghosting issues and the fading effects seem fine. I used CT frosted non ghosting bulbs. For LOTR it was very different for some reason. Lots of ghosting, same bulbs. I have the ocd board and like it for that game.
yes, baywatch is one of those games, i don't believe that TSPP is.
Quoted from brainmegaphone:
Is it me or does EVERY “HUO” Simpson’s have just under 300 games played? Is that just the number that the seller thinks is believable?
To the OP - a great condition version of this game top of the mark is in the $4,500 range. You should assume that the game isn’t HUO and that if the game has latest software the 300 game counter is meaningless as well. Buy only on condition.
It’s higher than that now I think, I see them going for 5200-5500. Number of plays is meaningless unless it’s on original code.
Quoted from moonduckie78:
Sometimes, when the ball goes behind the TV to start a mode, it takes the game a good 4 or 5 full seconds to realize the ball is back there and start the mode. Happening more frequently lately. Anyone ever experience this? Is a switch failing? It always EVENTUALLY starts the mode, but sometimes it takes a good 4 or 5 seconds.
Yes likely switch issue. Roll a ball in there is test mode, see if it registers consistently.
Quoted from MG7322:
So hanging out Christmas Day, brother-in-law playing TSPP, comes up from the basement and says, “got a ball jam”. Go down to a couch multi-ball all jammed up at #19 upper right eject. Coil is not firing. Clear the jam and still no luck. Noticed the Left and right slingshot and garage door are down. Change the F7 fuse (20V DC Low power coils) and we are in business. Later on after everyone is gone, I notice that Flash lamp #25 is stuck on? (Flash: Itchy). Power down the machine and the flash lamp slowly dims out. It matches the 20V LED light on the I/O board in terms of fade out after power down. It was fine before the fuse fix. Looking at the I/O Power driver Schematic but kinda rusty on reading these prints. Traces to J6 Q25 Bridge 2? Is the rectifier toast?
After taking the picture and writing this bulb #25 is out. I don’t want to damage anything else. Thought I would share to help with my next move.
Flash lamp stuck on points to a bad transistor.
Quoted from mjs2:
Anyone know if the 2- #44 bulbs in the car headlights on the playfield ghost? buying bulk and wanted to know if need to add 2 non-ghosting 44s along with the rest of the 70 - non-ghosting #555 inserts. The GI - minus spotlights and flashers, should not ghost and should be all 44s and will just use those for the headlights if they do not ghost. If i am mistaken, please correct.
THX for your time as always... pinside is the best!
They very well might. Any insert bulb potentially can ghost.
This might be competition mode, turn it off in the settings and see if that fixes the issue.
Quoted from Scribbles:
So, weasel, and D, your games do the same thing? 4 players are always "Team" play? I have 2 other Stern machines. 1 a year newer, and 1 a year older, and neither of those machines do this. It's so annoying when 4 people want to play.
Quoted from Damien:
So I've had the game for about a month now, and I'm finally starting to understand the rules a bit (though most of it is still confusing to me).
I've started AI about a dozen times, started Pretzel once, I think I started Daredevil, and tonight I started Scratchy's Revenge.
Getting these things started is difficult enough, but finishing them, especially all of them, seems just stupid difficult.
AI alone is pretty tough to follow with two couch shots needed, but doing all six modes is ridiculous.
I have a LOTR, and I'm pretty confident that I'll get Valinor one day, but TSPP isn't even in the realm of possibilities from what I've gathered.
I think it's a pretty cool game, but putting the SDMEWM that far out of each feels a bit cheap to me.
If you are getting to AI that easily, your settings are too easy. Change tv mode start to “off” at the beginning of every ball, this forces you to hit the krusty loop to light the tv.
Quoted from Damien:
My game is running the latest (guessing that is 5.00) and the setting is OFF.
I've changed it to 5 seconds so that I can actually enjoy the game a little.
LOTR is the same, but I've opted not to change it, and I've been very close to Valinor a couple of times.
But with TSPP, and I don't know if it's just my machine, but the drains can be brutal! Like right off the launch, off a standup, and SDTM!
If You’ve been to AI a dozen times within the first month you’ve had the game, I’d think your game is set up way too easy. I’ve had the game since 2003 and only been to AI maybe 25 times (never got past 4 ball locks) and seen pretzel once or twice and I’m a decent player with a high score of a little over 200 mil. I’d consider opening your outlanes, changing any extra ball settings to difficult, changing modes to not be lit after each ball, etc. tspp is not an easy game to get through. Also, completing the modes is very important both for victory laps and for adding time to AI.
Quoted from allsportdvd:
I’m having an issue where the game isn’t registering the CBG skill shot, garage or moe’s ramp (maybe others?)
I assume they may be on the same row of switches? If so, what should I be looking for?
Thanks in advance
A broken common wire to start. Switch matrix will tell you what color wire to look for.
Quoted from adamross:
I'm considering adding Pinstadium lights, would love to get thoughts from anyone who has them installed. Worth it? Thanks in advance!
I added a small blue led strip in the back right and a white led strip in the trough. A little dark in the middle, but not too bad.
Quoted from koops:
Got a very pristine HUO tspp today, bought from the first owner via their tech, goody bag and manual still stapled to the inside of the cab. No wear anywhere.
Looked like it had been in storage for some time as it came with a few spiders inside A quick clean and its fairly perfect. Power plant decals are peeling off but that will be easily fixed.
I didn't see a key post about anything you should add to the machine to protect it. ie. common wear areas etc.
I assume I should add cliffys, mylar to the drops, mylar to the slings. Anything else?
Is there a way to stop the ball jumping the right out lane rail?
I would put a protector on the shooter lane as the paint tends to wear off. I’ve owned my game since 2003 and it’s the only protector I have on the game.
Quoted from ATL_Tom:
Had a prob again last night that has shown up a couple times before. A buddy was having a great ball when he locked what I think was the second ball in the couch. The machine then ended the ball and awarded the bonuses. I'm not sure if there was a mode running or not but this isn't the first time it's happened. Any thoughts?
Game is losing track of the balls. Likely trough opto boards are failing.
I’ve owned this game since 2003, never beaten AI, farthest I got was locking 4 balls. Completing the modes is key as it adds time to AI. My high score on the game is around 240 mil.
There is a switch in there, it is likely Needing adjustment or replacement. Can be done from under the play field.
Quoted from MG7322:
Anyone have some tips to the upper right saucer where the ball shoots up and lands in the pocket but the game does not register. When ball search is conducted it kicks out. I checked the switch test for this (#24 upper right saucer) and it registers. I adjusted the metal tab a bit but still nothing. You think the micro switch is still toast even thought it will register in test mode?
It seemed to get slower and slower to acknowledge the ball the past few weeks.
When you say it doesn’t register, do you hear the game sound of it ejecting, but the coil doesn’t fire it out?
If this is the case, This is a fairly common issue. You have to shorten the coil plunger travel. At the back of the plunger where it meets the rubber stop, affix something to it that is roughly 1/4” thick, like a piece of plywood or plastic. I’ve seen people use a beer bottle cap. Took me many year to address this issue, and including trying other coils, but this is all that worked. Fires perfectly very time.
If this isn’t the case, it’s the switch most likely.