Normally I am not a fan of interior side art but that complements the playfield nicely.

If you are into adding toys, sky's the limit. It's sacrilege here, but personally... I have not seen any toy add-ons that I like.

Color DMD or Pin2DMD is always nice.

I find this game has terrible glare from the backbox so I am hoping to get some nonreflective glass on a Black Friday sale. I also want to replace the fluorescent with a warm white LED source.

NVRAM is a great idea for this game since it is easy to install, and the game has no features that need clock/calendar to be set.

Protectors on the I&S hole and the hidden garage ramp are a good idea. Unfortunately I think the I&S protector is no longer available. (Can anyone in the club post a picture of what it looks like installed?)

Inspect all the flippers and if the couch ramp flipper is weak be ready to replace the coil stop and sleeve... if you have problems making the ramp, make sure the ramp flap is not too tight or too loose, and wax the plastic.

Welcome to the club!

I just ordered from him. He'll reply quickly and send you a PayPal invoice. He told me it would be about 3 weeks to get me a TSPP set.

There are as many opinions as there are bulbs in the world, but from what I have read and seen in pics, my plan is to replace every lamp with Comet 2SMD Frosted Warm White. That will look the most like the original incandescent, which is my preference. ("Sunlight" is a little cooler and their other white is the coolest. Curious about Sunlight but I know I hate cool white.) If I find I don't like how a particular spot looks I can address that with a different bulb.

That powdercoat job is beautiful, wow.

I've nearly finished an LED swap but this GI bulb in the back by the Homer head looks like a PITA. It looks like you need to remove the mini pf and the right ramp to get to it.

Underneath, the socket is partially under a coil bracket. If you pried up the stapled socket leads, you MIGHT be able to get the socket out... has anyone tried that? Even if you have to loosen the bracket to wiggle the socket out that would have to be easier than doing it from the top.

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Thanks guys, I'll give it a shot that way. Have to take the upper pf off one more time anyway to get the bulb under the TV that I missed the first time. I have a bunch of brewing tubing, might have the right size "bulb remover" around already.

I just put frosted 2SMD warm whites in my game and I agree that under the couch ramp it looked a little better with the old incandescent bulbs. They are somewhat more pleasant straight on because they are dimmer. But I am leaving the LEDs in because I know I will soon stop noticing, and I don't want to mess with those bulbs again.

Realized I overlooked a couple more bulbs in my LED swap and it isn't clear how to get to them... sorry for the dumb questions.

There is one bulb right under the TV. Do I remove the TV, or do it from under the mini pf?

How do I remove the nuke plant pop bumper covers? There's a mini post on top, not screws.

Thanks @mattyk! Never thought about just yanking that rubber off the top.

I tried Titan low bounce silicone flipper rubber for the first time today... Gotta say, I like it. To me it feels a little deader than "broken in" real rubber but it still has enough bounce to do post passes and dead bounces. It's *definitely* easier to stay in control. This was especially obvious when catching a garage door rebound. Is this cheating? It feels like cheating!

With polyurethane Super-bands, sometimes if the ball has a little spin it seems to stick to the flipper a little... it can fire itself down the drain when you expect a dead bounce. With these silicone bands that didn't seem to be a problem. Ball friction feels a lot like natural rubber, which is good.

My Titan low-bounce rubbers replaced some brand new traditional rubber and the difference was dramatic. Try them if you get the chance. (I haven't tried their other silicone rings, just flippers.)

I finally got around to doing the "hum fix." It was a piece of cake, and sounds so much better. Why did I wait?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-speaker-humbuzz-fixed

These were the parts I used... no problems.

Clips: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B007XRCLTG
Pots: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01A0VH5L0

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The "hum fix" mod is well worth doing if you aren't switching sound systems. It's cheap, easy, and effective.

I am not a fan of the side art I have seen for most games, but I think it looks pretty good on this one.

Be sure to at least get the minimal Cliffy set which includes the garage ramp protector.

(I hate to say it but I don't like any of the added figures people often add to the game. I also don't like new sound mixes, for me part of the fun is the nostalgia of the game sounding like it did while it was growing on me.)

I recently ordered Cliffys for my TSPP and got them in 3-4 weeks... not too bad. He'll tell ya what to expect.

Oh, good point. At a minimum you need the clear protective stickers.

https://www.pinballlife.com/pinguard-flipper-button-wear-protector-set.html

And if you can't it's a good way to get started. You can build it as a clip-on so you don't solder on to the board. All you have to solder is the pot legs to the clips, which is hard to screw up.

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The bulbs for the couch ramp specifically can be done from above or underneath. The easiest way to get to all of the mini playfield lights is to remove the mini playfield. It can be entirely removed if you cut the zipties under the main playfield and disconnect all the connectors... but there is an easier compromise.

Unplug the connector right behind the TV.
Find the bundle of mini playfield cables under the main playfield, and cut the zipties
Remove the 3 mini playfield black thumbscrews
Lift the mini playfield and enjoy the slack in the cables thanks to the cut zipties
Tip the mini playfield so you can get to the underside, and rest it on some towels so it doesn't scratch anything or get snared on upper playfield items

You should be able to find an easy way to lay the mini playfield that exposes all of the bulbs underneath. Obviously you can't take it out of the game entirely while it is connected, but if you are lazy there is enough slack to work on it anyway. I was able to do all the bulbs, install the garage ramp Cliffy protector, and clean the hidden ball grime with no trouble.

I put frosted sunlights in mine and I agree that incandescents look somewhat better under the couch ramp. But, I want LEDs everywhere so I accept the compromise. A few more days and I won't even think about it. YMMV.

Definitely not intended. Assuming you are going to change the flipper rubber, do that to see where the ball goes, and then you can adjust the I&S kickout deflector if needed.

I think I still prefer red flipper rubbers on this game but I have to say the pink looks nice, I could go for that.

I DO think that this game benefits hugely from "low bounce" rubber. I put on the low bounce silicone stuff from Titan and immediately started getting new high scores. The ball is easier to control, no doubt.

I've found that I don't like to wax my games. It's just more work to put on, and as it wears away the way the game feels changes more than it does as an unwaxed playfield gets dirty. I just try to keep it clean. (There's still wax in some crevices in my TSPP, from the first owner.)

If anyone can suggest drop-in speaker replacements for the stock sound system, I would love to know. I'm not really interested in Pinsound or other ways to change the sounds, but if I can squeeze some more sound quality out of the stock sound system I'd be up for it. (I did the hum fix already so I can easily tweak cabinet/bb balance.)

I had been reluctant to go LED, but I tried Comet Warm White Frosted 2 SMD in this game and I really like how it looks. It is brighter without being obnoxiously bright, and color temperature is cooler for better color fidelity... but not so cool that things look blue and clinical.

The downside is that this game 100% needs an LEDOCD board. Without it, there is significant ghosting in gameplay and the attract mode is a flickering mess.

Another downside is that next to TSPP my other games with incandescents look absurdly yellow and gross. I'm gonna have to do them all now...

One is a grid of LEDs and the other is a laptop display showing colored dots. On the LED version you can change the appearance of the dots, to some degree. Both are good, they are just ... different.

I found my game much more fun with Titan Low Bounce silicone flipper rubber. The ball is just easier to control. Cheating? Maybe, but I'd do it again.

For non-gameplay mods I switched to Comet frosted warm white 2SMD LEDs and I like them a lot better than incandescent. However, this game really needs LEDOCD.

I plan on a color display and no-glare glass eventually.

I did the clip-on fix. It was trivial to build and install, and it is effective. I'm not worried about the clips coming off, they seem locked on nicely.

The benefit of clipping on pots is you can tune the balance to your liking. Even if you want to modify the board with soldered on parts, starting with the clipped on pot will let you figure out the right values.