The Simpsons Pinball Party
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After years of wanting to own this game, I finally added one to my collection. I don't know the rules very well yet, but I'm having a lot of fun. I have no idea what constitutes a good score. I just finished what seemed like a decent game. I reached Alien Invasion and Springfield Mystery Spot. My final score was 120 million. The game is insanely deep, and it's such a blast trying to pay attention to both playfields at once. 
I am getting quite a few bounce outs from the I&S hole. Is this normal, or is this due to the Ciffly I installed? Is there any way to tweak it?
Quoted from Lermods:I've had mine since 2003 nib. No cliffy, no wear, no bounce outs.
That's interesting. How many plays does your game have? Did you do anything at all to protect that area (i.e. Hard As Nails)? Mine is a relatively low play HUO machine, and it has a little wear at the left side of the I&S hole. There is also some slight wear in the shooter lane. The rest of the playfield is perfect.
Quoted from johninc:Pretty easy. You have to disconnect a bunch of wires under the main playfield, you may have to cut some zip ties to do this. Unscrew the three knobs on top, and lift off.
You were correct. It was quite easy. Just had to cut a couple zip ties, and unplug three connectors under the playfield. The whole harness lifted right up with the mini playfield.
How do you turn the ball saver back on? I reset my game back to factory defaults, and I can't for the life of my find the ball saver setting in the menu. The game is absolutely brutal without it.
Edit: Never mind. I found it in the instruction manual. It's option #38 (Freeze Time) in the Standard Adjustments menu. Not a very intuitive name for this setting, if you ask me. I set it to 3 seconds. This should be enough to avoid instantaneous drains.
Quoted from indypinhead:I've designed/machined a lighted Moe's sign mod if anyone is interested:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-lighted-moes-sign-for-tspp-available
That's pretty cool. I've seen the EL paper one, but I like yours more. In the photo, it looks like it has a slight hot spot in the middle of the sign. Does it look like that in real life?
Quoted from dug:I think the yellow titan rings would look sweet!
I placed my order yesterday. i ended up going with mostly red for the lower playfield and light blue for the upper playfield. Went with purple for the slingshots. I think it should look nice with the colored Cliffy posts I already have installed on the game. It's really difficult to decide when there are so many colors to choose from. I originally ordered a ton of different colors, but I decided to dial it back and not go crazy. I think it should look nice. I'll post photos when I'm done.
I started installing the new colored silicone rings from Titan last night. They look great, but I have a question for you guys. What size mini post rubbers do you have on your game? I ordered 3/8" rings, because that's specifically what the manual calls for. I realized as soon as I started to install them that all the mini post rubbers I was replacing were 7/16". In fact, I think all my Sterns have 7/16" rings. My gut reaction is that the 3/8" rings don't look quite "beefy" enough. What do you guys think?
Here are some photos of the 3/8" ones installed on my game ...
Mini Post Rubbers #1.JPG
Mini Post Rubbers #2.JPGQuoted from mskoenen:Hey, TSPP owners, I need some help. I recently replaced all of the regular LEDs that came in my game with non-ghosting LEDs. I also put LEDs in to replace some incandescents that were never LED'd due to being in hard to reach places, I guess. But as soon as I put the game back together I started getting intermittent reboots. The reboots don't seem to coincide with anything in particular in the game. Sometimes it happens within a minute, sometimes it happens 10 minutes in, and everything in between. I'm not sure if it's just a coincidence and it has nothing to do with the LEDs I put in, or if I managed to bump something when removing the upper playfield, or what. I was never even in the backbox during this tiny project. The game doesn't show any errors, and it never reboots when I go through the solenoid/coil tests. Does anyone have any idea on where I can start in diagnosing this problem? Thanks for any and all info!!
If it was working fine before and now it isn't, you may have dislodged something while you were working on the game. I would carefully check all the wires underneath the playfield to see if something has broken loose and is causing a short.
Quoted from SpiffyRob:The kickout from the IS hole started out doing what I think is the normal behavior (kicking to the left flipper) but as I've played more, it first started hitting the top of the right sling, and now seems to have settled on chucking the ball SDTM. Obviously not ideal. How can I tweak this?
Do you have a Cliffy installed on the I&S hole? This can sometimes affect the trajectory of the ball as it is shot back into play.
Quoted from SpiffyRob:Meanwhile, the VUK under the upper playfield is only successfully kicking the ball all the way through the hole and onto the upper PF about 30% of the time. It always gets there eventually, but this is a pretty big flow killer. In this case, I definitely want to have a good idea of what I'm doing before taking the time to remove the upper playfield to access it.
You don't have to remove the upper playfield to get to the VUK. The whole assembly, including the fork switch, can be accessed from underneath the playfield. You just need to remove 5-6 screws.
Quoted from Johnc1983:Hi all - does anyone know where I can order cliffys for this game from? I have a Tspp coming soon and would love to have them
Quoted from Goner:I usually just contact Cliffy with email. Link at his website: http://www.passionforpinball.com/
Yep. You can buy them directly from the man himself. He even sometimes has the I&S hole protector in stock. If he doesn't, you can pick it up at Pinbits ...
The protectors aren't too hard to install. The left ramp one is the biggest pain in the ass. You will find it easiest if you remove the ramp. If you are installing the garage ramp protector, then you will already have the mini playfield off, so it's not that big of a deal to remove the left ramp as well.
Quoted from jackd104:Could someone please explain or provide pic of how the couch weld fix bracket is attached to pf?
It's hard to get good pics without removing the ramp, but these should help. When it is properly installed, it forms a "T" with the coil stop. It is mounted through a hole in the couch weldment, and the curved part goes around the bulb.
I custom did my whole game with LEDs from Comet. I also added an LED OCD board. It came out fantastic. Probably the best LED job I've ever done.
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:The part with homer sleeping in his chair will be lit. Just not as bright. There are two 90 degree sockets under there.
You really gotta add some bright LEDs under there to light it up properly. I used two of these and it looks awesome!
http://www.cometpinball.com/2-SMD-FLEX-Non-Ghosting-p/2smdflexng.htm
Quoted from rai:What color? Any pics of the insert with those LEDs?
I went with warm white for that insert. In fact, I used either warm white or sunlight white on most of the game. I often go with a "cooler" white, but I felt the color palette of this game worked best with something warmer. I used twin 2835 SMDs with frosted lenses in sunlight white for 90% of the GI. These are the best GI bulbs I have found so far from any manufacturer. They are very bright and spread the light out nicely. There were a few areas where the bulbs were in direct line of site. I find this to be distracting, so in these cases I used either a less intense frosted bulb, or a flexible one so I could angle the light away from the player. In a couple spots I actually chose not to even use a bulb, as it was unnecessary. I'll try to get some pics of the game if I get a chance later today.
Quoted from TimeBandit:Got my mint (seriously, looks like it just came out of the box!) TSPP the other day ...
Congrats! That game is gorgeous! Do yourself a favor and protect that shooter lane and the I&S hole before you start to get wear. Keep that thing mint.
Quoted from Elfman:I recommend all the Cliffy pieces for TSPP. Especially the garage ramp. Those ramps are unobtanium now and have a tendency to have the front lip of it chip off under heavy use.
Marco appears to have them in stock ...
Quoted from gweempose:Marco appears to have them in stock ...
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-6045-00
Quoted from rai:Just wanted to make sure this is the garage ramp. It says "middle assy" which I don't understand.
Yes. It's definitely the garage ramp. It corresponds directly with the part number in the manual ...
Quoted from dannylite:Any mods out there to get that "true" knocker sound?
Pinball Life used to sell a kit specifically for this purpose, but I'm not sure if it is still available. Here's how to make a do-it-yourself version ...
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~pinball_stuff/knocker.htm
Edit: Looks like it's only for SAM games.
Quoted from thatdangguy:Has anybody here installed and led OCD and had issues with the bully stand up target lights? I installed the led OCD board about a month ago and man, that thing is awesome. Only issue I have run into so far is the lights in front of the bully targets seem like they ghost during the skill shot errr.. shot.
For example I start a game and the lights blink one after the other in front of the bully stand up like they normally do, no problem there. Then while playing i hit one or two of the stand ups so the lights in front of their targets light up, still cool, no problem.
So two lights are lit and then I drain, when the ball ejects and the lights start cycling for the skill shot the two that were previously lit remain like 40% on and flicker no matter what, and when it is their turn to light in the cycle, they light up the way they are supposed to. This just continues until I plunge and either they stay 40% lit or go back to fully lit when hit or reset once the bank is complete.
I tried editing the light profiles for those lights separately with various degrees of power and did not see any real change. I'm using regular comet 2smd sunlight bulbs(i.e. they are not non-ghosting bulbs). Maybe I'm using the ledOCD software incorrectly but some tips on that would be helpful, if that is the case.
Any help is appreciated, and I may double post this in the ledOCD Thread if that doesn't ruffle any feathers, just figured this would be a better place to start.
I have an LED OCD in mine. I'll check mine when I get a chance.
I just checked, and mine does the exact same thing. I believe the strobing of the bully standups is a normal part of the code that is simply exaggerated by the LED OCD.
Quoted from rai:lollypop flipper button protectors will cover the art. Not sure if it's necessary for a HUO machine.
I agree. On a HUO game with perfect art, it makes more sense to go with some clear protectors like these ...
Quoted from ChadH:Just got my ColorDMD. But I've found that my ribbon cables are glued on the Display Controller Board side. Was anyone else's like this? Is there an easy way to unglue these to remove the ribbon cables?
It's just hot glue. You can often remove it with just your fingers. If that doesn't work, a screwdriver or some needlenose pliers usually does the trick.
Quoted from akm:What kind of feedback can you guys give me on the cliffy for the Itchy & Scratchy hole? Does it make the shot considerably more difficult/unreliable to hit successfully?
The protector definitely makes the shot a bit more difficult to make consistently. I find the trade-off worth it, though.
Quoted from Homer714:Lots of eproms on ebay etc..... any favorite / trusted supplier?
I highly recommend John Wart Jr.
Quoted from freefallnick:I was also wondering if anyone has tried Titan bands on the upper playfield (or even comparing the entire machine with superbands vs titans?)? With the superbands I can make it under the TV about 60-75% of the time but making it up the couch ramp is only about 10-15% of the time if that.
I have Titan competition silicone rings on all my flippers, including the upper playfield. I have no problem whatsoever controlling the ball up there or making the couch shot. It's definitely a right off the very end of the flipper kind of shot.
Quoted from TimeBandit:Is there a setting to turn off the pity extra ball?
Yes. Look for an option in the standard adjustments menu called "consolation ball".
Quoted from emkay:So I've been having fun replacing various bits, doing some color matching. However, now I've created this problem with the Superbands post sleeves:
I bet everyone makes that same mistake when swapping out all the original post sleeves. I know I did.
Quoted from Sparky:Does anyone make plastic protectors aside from the slings? Is there a protector for the inlane plastics and the big blue one along the right side? My plastics are currently fine, and I was fortunate to receive an extra full set when I bought the game, but these seem to be hot commodity, and I'd hate to break what I currently have.
Check with indypinhead ....
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-pf-plastic-protectors-now-available
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:Ok, here is a question - the pop bumper that is not a cooling tower never illuminates. The bulb and circuitry is there. I tested with different bulbs and the matrix shows the circuit as well. Test all lamps-no joy. I also have never seen the bumper light on any YouTube video of the machine, either. What say you?
It is supposed to illuminate. Here's my game ...
Quoted from Lermods:It's in the standard adjustments menu not diagnostics. Also, you can't adjust just one coil, it's all or none.
I was under the impression that the coil settings in the menu affected all the coils EXCEPT the flippers.
Quoted from Whysnow:Curious, I know TSPP was run a few times/for a few years. Are there any difference during the run duration from earlier vs/ later?
The most obvious difference would be the playfield colors. For example, some have a red car, while others have a more pinkish car. The earlier runs also had that weird black blotch on Homer's head.
Quoted from Whysnow:any other game differences?
Other than the artwork, the only other difference I can think of is that the later runs used a different sound chip. I'll see if I can find more info for you.
Edit: This thread specifically addresses the differences. Rarehero talks about the sound chip. I guess the later ones used some kind of emulation that has some flaws:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-simpsons-pinball-party-run-differences
Quoted from ramegoom:This style of set will last forever. Klein Tools:
Quoted from Whysnow:That is the best for sure. I can say they wont last forever as I have had the magnets fall out of a couple, but still the best variety to get.
I think the Kleins have a lifetime guarantee on them. I had the magnet fall out of one and got a replacement for free.
I agree that Sharpies are a bad idea. I have good results doing minor playfield touchups with paint pens.
Quoted from stinogle:Looking to connect the Pinball Browsers software to our TSPP... anyone know the cable setup we'd need for it? Looked inside for a serial port today and didn't see one.
Thanks!
I'm not sure you can do that with a Whitestar game. You can, however, open the ROM file in Pinball Browser, edit it to your linking, and then save it. You will then need to burn the new file to a compatible EPROM.
Quoted from awarner:ColorDMD on order... Can't wait!
An absolute must with this game. You'll love it!!!
Quoted from emkay:Guests are always floored at how bright and colorful the game is now. That said, it's virtually unplayable on a couple hits of acid at this point.
If you think that's bright, you should check out GoT Premium/LE. That game will burn out your retinas!!!
I'm surprised by how dirty it is in all the hard to clean spots.
Quoted from Deafcon:I'm surprised by how dirty it is in all the hard to clean spots.
Yeah, it certainly is a packed playfield.
Quoted from Mrawesome44:Hey guys im new to the club. Getting my machine tomorrow. Super excited and cant wait. How hard is it to install a color DMD? Plan on buying one next month.
It's pretty easy to install. On a difficulty scale of 1-5, I'd rate it a 2. Just carefully follow the directions on their website and you shouldn't have any problems.
Quoted from Mrawesome44:My last question is how difficult would it be for a beginner to take apart the play-field? This is my second pin but ive never done so before. I want to know so i can clean it when the time comes
Are you talking about a full topside tear down, or just a quick cleaning? Once you remove the upper playfield, which isn't very difficult at all, you will have access to most of the areas where the ball travels. The rest can be accessed by removing a few ramps. We're only talking about some screws. The game actually looks a lot more intimidating than it is.
Quoted from Mfsrc791:Just looking for anyones opinion. I bought tspp from a retail store for 3750. It has definately been routed and has the usual flipper/start button wear. They shopped it and made sure everything worked for me and i picking it up tuesday.
Did i overpay?
Considering it's from a retail store, was fully shopped, and I assume came with some sort of a warranty, I don't think you necessarily overpaid. Games generally cost more from a retailer than from a fellow collector.
Quoted from brainmegaphone:Thanks! I'll take a look at the standard one! I think the strobe effect is too much but I want something a step up from incandescent.
You have to be careful with LED flashers. It's obviously a personal preference, but I can't stand playing games where the flashers are blinding. I used these flashers in my TSPP, and I think they look great in the game ...
Quoted from Rferullo:I am going to buy some LEDs from Comet later today. Can you guys post some photos of your LED jobs to give me some inspiration?
When it comes to LEDs, you'll get a million different opinions on what looks best. The twin 2835 SMDs are my go to bulb. I tend to use the frosted version for both GI and the controlled lighting. They have a nice light spread, and I think they look great in most of inserts. I also highly recommend an LED OCD board in this game. It makes a huge difference. I color matched most of the inserts, and went with sunlight for the GI.
Here's a link to the bulbs ...
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd-ct-ft.htm
And here's a link to some playfield photos of my game. Note, the colors are much more vibrant in person ...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-owners-club-members-only/page/21#post-2642929
You're also going to want to use something brighter to light up that large insert in the pops. See this post for more details ...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-owners-club-members-only?tu=gweempose#post-2568693
I don't have any full playfield photos, but I can try to take some later today when I get a chance. I used mostly all frosted white for the GI. There were a few spots where I felt that the twin 2835 SMD bulbs were a little too bright, so I used either a dimmer frosted bulb or used a flex head LED so I could angle the light away from the player. I used frosted white in the back as well, but I think I may have pulled a couple that were reflecting off the mini playfield.
Quoted from brainmegaphone:I'm going to ask a stupid question... maybe stupid maybe not.
Finished changing out coil sleeves and I noticed that after launching a ball (and the ball hits its first target or two) the kicker in the ball trough fires once. No ball in it it just fires. Game does this consistently. Kicker never fires any other time unless it is supposed to! Multiball works normal no extra fires.
My stupid question is that I can't remember if the game is programmed like this or if I messed something up changing coils. I can't imagine it was programmed like this!
My game did this at one point. Do you also find that the skill shot to the target isn't registering? I'm pretty sure it's some kind of software glitch. I believe I fixed it by doing a factory reset.
I used purple Op-Max's in mine. They provide a nice bright and even illumination ....
Quoted from Cserold:Ok, feel like an idiot but how the heck do you get the nuclear cooling tower plastics off the pop bumpers to change out the lights? Thanks for the help!
You just push down the tower plastic and remove the mini-post rubber. It will then come right off. If you look at my photo above, you can see that I swapped the black factory mini-post rubbers with clear ones. I think it looks much nicer.
Quoted from Goalie:push the tower down, remove the little rubber donut on top. and you should be able to pull the tower plastic off.
Jinx!!! 
Quoted from Rferullo:I have had both invisaglass and PDI. Honestly I think PDI is slightly better because it has a darker purple color as opposed to the green color in the invisaglass - but it's also much more expensive. I can really only tell the difference when they are side by side. Invisaglass does a good enough job and I got a DMD glare guard that helps too.
My thoughts exactly. PDI is definitely better when compared side by side, but Invisiglass gets the job done.
Quoted from Cserold:Are you guys agreeing that PDI or Invisiglass will both help reduce the glare off of the much brighter back box lighting when the Flipper Fidelity Interactive panel is installed?
Both products will absolutely help reduce the intensity of the reflection.
Quoted from jalpert:Yah, but the cost of the mod, plus another $300 to reduce the glare from the mod? That's crazy steep.
Yep. I never said it was cheap, just effective. Of course, you're getting other benefits as well. The glare reduction makes the entire playfield look more crisp.
Quoted from Rager170:Hey guys,
I am going to be looking at a huo TSPP next week and was wondering if anyone could tell me if there are any game specifics i should be looking for, like wear areas and such?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks
The most common areas of wear are the shooter lane and the Itchy & Scratchy hole.
Quoted from Rager170:How does the garage ramp work? Ball goes into the ramp and then an up-kick sends it to the second playfield?
The garage ramp is actually a jump ramp. The ball goes up the ramp and, assuming it has enough velocity, sails over the orbit and lands on a second ramp which takes it to the VUK at the back left of the playfield. If the ball isn't hit solid enough, it will fall into the orbit and then slowly roll back down towards the pop bumpers.
Quoted from atwong:What does everyone use to clean the pad that scores the skill shot comic book guy. When I make the hit, it's not registering. I'm thinking it's a dirty contact. I was thinking of spraying it with Electrical Contact Cleaner but I don't see anyone posting with product. Thanks!
Believe it or not, it could be a software bug. This is a known issue that occasionally pops up on some machines. Try doing a full factory reset and see if it fixes the problem.
I think the main problem with contact cleaner is that it often reacts badly with plastic, so it's not really anything you want near a pinball machine with so many plastic parts.
Quoted from Snwbrdrmidget15:Going to go look at a "TSPP" this weekend hopefully joining this club soon. Any tips on what to look for in wear and tear on the game?
Common areas of wear would be the shooter lane, Itchy & Scratchy hole, flipper buttons, start button, and the ramp behind the garage door. Make sure the VUK is working that goes to the upper playfield, as well as the switch that triggers it. Also, check to make sure the couch is releasing the balls properly (one at a time). Lastly, I'd check the I&S drop targets to make sure they are properly dropping when a ball is ejected.
Quoted from Twirt:You all had great advice last time, and I'm hoping you've got it again. Last night there was a significant lag between when a ball shot into the garage made it up to the upper playfield. Just tried again and it's the same situation. Noticed it from the treehouse ramp too. Many times it won't go up until the machine goes into "lost ball" mode. It doesn't seem to be getting stuck anywhere (I can see it through the hole of the upper playfield while I wait), and it always eventually pops up, usually after eating a good 10-15 seconds off my TV.
Anybody have any ideas on that?
It's almost certainly a bad switch. You can try adjusting it, but you'll probably need a new one. The good news is that it can be replaced from underneath without having to remove the upper playfield.
Quoted from Cserold:Little video of side decals, interactive back box lighting, super premium CT LEDs, color DMD, speaker lights and Duff grills, and several other playfield Mods ....
Love the conversation in the background! 
Quoted from RVApinballer:Call outs, choreography, and sounds are all amazing.
The sounds is decent, but the hurry up music annoys the shit out of me, and it is constantly playing.
Quoted from Monk:What has everyone found to be a good compliment game to TSPP? I have room for two games and right now it's TSPP and TMNT. I actually like TMNT, but am looking for a bit of an upgrade. The price range is around the $2,000 and my first thought is a T2. What have you all found to be a good sidekick game for TSPP in that price range?
Have you considered an early solid state? Maybe something like a Paragon or a Flash Gordon?
Quoted from Cserold:You guys have a link to the ledOcd you recommend? Thanks!!
Here you go!
http://ledocd.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=2
Quoted from TimberOne:I am getting ready to LED my TSPP. Comet led has natural white, sunlight and warm white. I think warm white would be too yellow but natural might be too white for the comic theme playfield. Sunlight is supposed to be in the middle. Anyone have suggestions? I just got a IMVE and the led are amazing looking. Natural white but it has that scifi theme.
I used sunlight for the GI in my TSPP, and I thought it was the perfect color for that game.
Quoted from Mando:Thinking of joining the club, whats a bone stock low play HUO TSPP worth?
Obviously, it depends on condition. If it's in nice shape and there is no sign of any major wear, it's probably worth somewhere in the $4,500 range.
Quoted from Deafcon:The donut shooter rod from pinball_customs arrived. It took a little while as Brock had to make me one, but it was well worth the wait.
That's awesome! Now you gotta get the matching keychain ...
Quoted from multibrawlr:... balls sometimes get stuck when ejecting from the couch. Any fix for this?
You probably have a bent couch bracket. Very common issue. You need to bend it back so it's at a 90 degree angle to the playfield and then reinforce it with this ...
Quoted from Snwbrdrmidget15:anybody have a resource that shows a video for removing the upper playfield? need to replace the VUK microswitch and would like a good "how to" in completely removing it with minimal struggle. Any help is appreciated.
As Brad already pointed out, there is no need to remove the upper playfield to replace that switch. That being said, it's very easy to remove the upper playfield. Just disconnect all the connectors underneath, making sure to label them, and then remove the black thumb screws from the top. Once you do this, it will lift right off. Be careful that the wiring harness doesn't get snagged on anything when you pull it through.
Quoted from vbobrusev:Colorization for pin2dmd finished! All additional information will be announced tomorrow.
Looks great!!!
Quoted from Monk:This brings up a good point. I had my machine setup at around 6.5 to 7 but the bubble was not close to in the middle. It bothered me to see the bubble off so I adjusted so the it was within the lines but still not evenly between the lines. This moved the game to more around 8.5. It made the game much more difficult. What are the normal degrees when the bubble is between the lines for everyone else?
You can't go by the bubble. They are notoriously inaccurate. I'd recommend a digital level with a built-in inclinometer. I use the one pictured below. There are also apps on your phone which will work in a pinch.
Quoted from Rensh:Gonna see a tspp tomorrow of which I got some pictures. Anyone see anything strange where I should be aware of? What to double check?
Yep. The game is only worth a fraction of what it should be without that TV. It's integral to the gameplay, and as far as I know, it's a very difficult part to locate. To be honest, I can't recall ever seeing one come up for sale. Out of curiosity, how much are they asking for the game?
Quoted from aahgo:I am thinking of selling my TSPP to fund a Hobbit purchase. If you know of anyone looking for one have them PM me. Or if anyone has a Hobbit and wants to work a trade/cash deal even better.
Have you contacted this person?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/chicago-traderseller-club/page/85#post-3703011
Quoted from aahgo:yes, unfortunately he's not a fan.
That's a shame. Could have worked out great for you.
Quoted from Reuzilla:Hi all,
Anyone know where I pick up a garage door ramp? Part number #545-6045-00. I've been searching with no luck. Trying to keep this search in North America. Thanks for any help .
Reuzilla
Depending upon how the ramp is broken, it may be repairable with a cliffy ...
Quoted from zucot:I'm having a small but annoying problem on my game and figured I'd appeal to the club for help / advice.
On my game, when the ball is rolling along the left flipper wire guide the ball takes a little hop right at the moment where it's about to transition to the flipper. Its causing the ball to not ride the flipper at all.
Has anyone run into this? I recently did a playfield swap. The wire guide looks to be tapped into the playfield all the way and the flipper is properly aligned. The game is level.
Maybe the guide got bent somehow?
What kind of flipper bands do you have installed? If they are super bands, they tend to be thicker than normal rubbers. You might want to try the thin Titans.
Quoted from jalkelly:Their site seems to be down at the moment but I got the Sac Rack at Pinball Life.
I was at the bank the other day and asked them if they had any Sacs. Surprisingly, they said no. I was going to grab $20 worth ...
Quoted from ptrav1:Good evening. Just joined the club....again. When I power on my machine it automatically goes into "looking for pinballs" if balls are on the couch. I don't recall my last machine doing this. I have five balls in the game and all trough and couch switches work. What else should I look at?
If the game is only looking for balls when they are locked in the couch, then it must be one of the switches up there. The switches may work when you manually test them, but are you sure they are all registering when a ball is sitting on them?
Quoted from konghusker:Thanks guys. I got one coming. Is this a common problem on tspp? I've only owned mine since early summer.
Those fork switches suck. They commonly have to be adjusted.
I would highly recommend the LED OCD board with this title. I installed one in my game, and was thrilled with the results. As others have pointed out, it's not just about eliminating ghosting. It gets rid of that blinkety effect that you normally get with LEDs, and it smooths everything out. If you want to get really "OCD", it also allows you to custom set the fade characteristics and brightness levels of every controlled lamp. It's a really amazing mod!
Quoted from Spelunk71:Hi all. I am a recent TSPP owner and can use some help. The “Y” switch by the VUK under the mini playfield was not registering consistently so I tried to solder on a new one along with a new diode. It worked fine for a few tries and then nothing. The VUK pushes the ball up after ball search, but the switch just stopped registering entirely. Because I am a soldering noob, I tried it a second time with a new switch and diode but same thing: works for a minute or two and then dies. Any idea what the problem may be? Thanks very much.
Is the diode oriented correctly?
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Cherry Hills Village, CO