(Topic ID: 50801)

The Simpsons Pinball Party (TSPP) Owners Club..... Members Only!!!

By kwiKimart

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by allsportdvd
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider gcmess.
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#3046 6 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

hi guys, Q16 changed, and the issue is still there.. need some help to get my right flipper working :/
So to sum up :
- my right main flipper is weak, only this one
- it raises when i press the button, but i can put it back down with my finger, that's not feasible with the other flippers
- i've switched left and right coil+diode, the issue stays on right, removing a coil+diode source
- I've changed Q16 for a IRL540, issue is still there
I'm really out of ideas.. anyone ??
In game, i barely can reach the garage with right flip, stuck at 91M

I would check your EOS switch. I had the exact same problem with my LOTR. You description is exactly like mine posted on the LOTR forum. And I did almost the exact same thing with transistor replacement and swapping coils etc. Chased that rabbit for days. Felt kind of dumb when I saw the EOS wasn't making contact.

#3050 6 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

The only thing that I think makes it not an EOS issue but a voltage issue is that he can push the flipper back down with his finger, or by having the ball hit it. That's not normal behavior even when the EOS is functioning properly, so it would have to be power related, right?

So.....was looking at schematic. All the flippers use the same 50V, each one with its own fuse. Q11 thru Q16 are the transisitors that fire and drive to voltage to gnd. All that seems to be working....yes? Could always jumper the voltage from a working flipper to the non working flipper.

#3053 6 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

so basically, you are suggesting to put a new wire from the 50V left red wire to the red wire on the right coil ?

Yep....if you think it's a voltage issue, jumper the working flipper to the non-working flipper. May want to remove a wire from the working flipper so you don't fire both flippers and maybe blow a fuse...
The EOS switch is there to fire the flipper when the flipper is forced back by a hard shot....so when you push it with your hand it should fire when the switch closes.
The EOS switch is normally closed...opens when the flipper is energized. Make sure it closes when you push on the flipper. An earlier post said your EOS switches were shunted? What do you mean?

#3055 6 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

I mean that eos wires are twisted together as switches are broken. So eos are always closed.
I'll give a try
Thanks

I certainly would replace those switches....that's all part of getting your flippers to work properly.

#3060 6 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

As having them open or closed doesn't affect my issue, it's not the first in list,but i agree its second

Sorry...but have to disagree. EOS switches are there for a reason. If not ....they wouldn't design it like this and they wouldn't be there.
Sorry to hear about your transistor.

1 week later
#3079 6 years ago

So....turned on my TSPP this morning and all my settings and scores are gone. Shit! So replaced the batteries and still doesn't remember (please don't tell me to get NVRAM...I get that) Just trying to figure out what happened and why I can't get it to remember. All I did recently replace a noisy transformer for the light. Any help?

#3081 6 years ago
Quoted from gcmess:

So....turned on my TSPP this morning and all my settings and scores are gone. Shit! So replaced the batteries and still doesn't remember (please don't tell me to get NVRAM...I get that) Just trying to figure out what happened and why I can't get it to remember. All I did recently replace a noisy transformer for the light. Any help?

FYI....I must of nudge the battery holder and caused a bad connection. I strapped tied the holder to the board thru the slots provided and sure enough...memory is back. Think I have a repair in my future though....

#3083 6 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Sounds like either battery acid damage or a poor solder joint between the battery holder and the board. If the latter, might be a simple fix to reflow solder on the loose connections. I would pull the board and inspect it visually for any acid damage ASAP.

Agree....sounds like today's project

#3085 6 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Wait...you're saying you lost all your default settings and scores (default scores showed up on the display), you replaced the batteries while the default scores were on, you poked around, and your old scores came back up?

No....lost all my high scores and my settings not default settings. You know the "open coin door" every time you shut off the machine and then turn it on.

1 month later
#3253 6 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

My soldering improved drastically after using flux. Just wipe the excess flux off when done and you only need a little bit. I'm still learning too.

Are you using a plumbers solder? If so....really should invest in electronic solder....flux is in the solder and made for the type of work/repair of a pin and all electronics A good adjustable soldering iron (temperature) helps too. Not much of an investment when you consider the value of what you are working on. Sorry....don't mean to preach.

#3263 6 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

This is what I'm using. I think it's the correct solder. The flux helps me smooth things out and seems easier. I also use a non adjustable Weller iron. The flux has probably helped me because I'm still learning.

Looks right....rosin core is for electronics. Keep practicing....don't be afraid to hold the heat on a joint...have to make sure everything takes the solder.

#3271 6 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

I think that was my issue. The third try soldering the garage/treehouse ramp switch seems to have worked! It's kind of a pain keeping everything in place, but getting good contact initially and heating the hell out of everything before applying the solder did the trick. Any tips to keep the clamps/clips from sticking to the solder? Amazon sells a tungsten pick that they claim will not stick, but I haven't tried it.

I have never heard of or used a tungsten pick....could give a shot.
Here's what I remember from my solder 101 class. Strip and tin the wires....this can be a little tricky because the older wire (rubber insulation) will melt and run up the wire so strip it short and trim as needed. Also the older wire doesn't like to take solder sometimes due to the coating on the wire...may have to scrape it a little and then twist it. After wires are tinned...bend and place on the terminal or lug, add some solder to the tip of you iron, hold it on the joint, you will see the solder start to flow, add some solder to the joint keeping the iron in place and the solder will flow to everything....couple extra seconds and done.

#3272 6 years ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Sometimes, when the ball goes behind the TV to start a mode, it takes the game a good 4 or 5 full seconds to realize the ball is back there and start the mode. Happening more frequently lately. Anyone ever experience this? Is a switch failing? It always EVENTUALLY starts the mode, but sometimes it takes a good 4 or 5 seconds.

Having the same issue....switch test good in diagnostics. Gave it a little more bend so the ball would contact it better. Some improvement but still not 100%. I'll try a little more bend....see what that does. May end up just replacing it and see what that does.

#3273 6 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

You've 100% taken the words right out of my mouth and I have this exact same thought every single day. I honestly can't wait to replace it with something else, I just have no idea what to replace it with because I have had or own nearly every machine that I have ever wanted. My ultimate plan is to hit as many shows as I can in 2018 and play as many machines as possible. Doing that will solidify my decision. There just has to be something else out there for me to fall in love with.

That's how I feel about my POTC....lol

#3276 6 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

I mean dont get me wrong, TSPP is an absolutely outstanding game. I wanted one so badly for years because I am a simpsons super fan and I had played it a few times, so I knew how good it was and had to at least give ownership a try. After years of looking for a super nice one I had finally found it on here and made the 9 hr round trip to get. I got it home and have had one great game on it in 8 months. It's so frustratingly difficult!!! All of the work and time that I put into getting it is another reason why its been hard to let it go to a new home. It plays almost identically to my Fishtails. If you get caught between the slings you're toast ....... side drain, side drain, side drain, side drain

Wow....Fish Tales and TSPP play the same? That was going to be my next purchase....if I found one.

2 months later
#3417 6 years ago
Quoted from AAAV8R:

This is my first time trying to remove the upper playfield. This pin connector on the TV seems pretty difficult to dislodge. I don't want to break it or damage it. Are there clips underneath the connector? Do I need a special tool to help lift clips etc.?
Tips greatly appreciated.

I had to replace the couch bracket and fix a switch so I removed the upper playfield....but I don't remember disconnecting the tv....

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