(Topic ID: 50801)

TSPP Owners Club..... Members Only!!!

By kwiKimart

7 years ago

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#1413 4 years ago

Ok, here is a question - the pop bumper that is not a cooling tower never illuminates. The bulb and circuitry is there. I tested with different bulbs and the matrix shows the circuit as well. Test all lamps-no joy. I also have never seen the bumper light on any YouTube video of the machine, either. What say you?

#1415 4 years ago

I figured it is designed that way, but what prompted my question is that there is one for sale on pinside that has it lit in the pics. Also, what reason could there be for omitting the lamp operation even in the test mode? The white flasher operates with this bumper so maybe the stern people just decided to go with that?

#1420 4 years ago

Well, there is no voltage to mine. Wires look good. Any ideas? I am new to ss machines.

#1423 4 years ago

I have done both tests and that is the lamp matrix number alright. Everything under the playfield looks good, diode in place, etc. I guess I will follow the wires next.

#1424 4 years ago

It turned out to be, ahem, a bad bulb. I had replaced it with a new one and that turned out to be bad. Laugh away.

#1426 4 years ago

Yes, I was wondering how long it was gonna be...

#1438 4 years ago

Ditto on the Colordmd. It needs it. I like DotXL and the setting that looks like 8-bit but the name escapes at the moment.

#1449 4 years ago

He does bring up a good point with regard to replacement plastics. Pinball rescue doesn't have them yet. I am hoping they start soon.

#1453 4 years ago

Didn't know this. I would love to get some blades for mine... Hint hint

#1456 4 years ago

I would think that the power supply has ample reserve.

#1475 4 years ago

I installed a Cliffy kit minus the Itchy and Scratchy hole. What do you guys recommend for that one? The plastic or all steel protector?

#1476 4 years ago

There was a good amount of black soot on the playfield and I figured out that it is mainly coming from the flipper stops. I bought all new plungers and stops from Pinball Life. The old stops were covered in black. The new ones look like they are made differently and hopefully won't have this issue. I did this about two months ago, and the playfield is still clean.

#1502 4 years ago

Here is mine. Time to novus the playfield and get rid of the wax buildup.




#1507 3 years ago
Quoted from pumpkinlad:

Hello fellow manufacturing day TSPP owner! Serial 184202 and no blob here.

Mine's 184195

#1525 3 years ago

The upper flippers can bind if not adjusted properly. Check to make sure the tube is not being pinched by the lower playfield parts, the plungers move free when cycled by hand and that the upper playfield is attached securely and aligned. The slightest interference or misalignment can slow those flippers.

#1534 3 years ago
Quoted from multibrawlr:

Just ordered the Itchy and Scratchy clear/stainless steel protector yesterday. How do you install it? Do you have to remove that entire plastic on the right side of the playfield with the Itchy and Scratchy figures?

Where did you order from? Pinbits?

#1569 3 years ago

There are also a few phillips screws to remove.

#1589 3 years ago

I should be getting my I&S protector today. Glad that Multibrawler is exploring the unknown for me. BTW, what rom are you guys running? I am on the most recent.


#1605 3 years ago

There is a plastic sleeve around both posts and the upper one has a rubber sleeve as well. A sharpie works. There is some more room behind the drop targets if they are up.

#1606 3 years ago

Also, you can unclip the bulb to get more access to the nuts and washers.

#1615 3 years ago

I have used a sharpie before on another game with no issues, but I gather the consensus is no.

#1617 3 years ago

Perfect. I put the steel version on last night and it already has a small dent on it. Glad it's installed now.

#1621 3 years ago

That is a pretty unsightly area with those wires exposed like that. Great idea.

2 weeks later
#1646 3 years ago
Quoted from canea:

This is rad. Ordered one. I think part of the reason my TSPP gets dirty so quickly is all those flippers firing at once.

Mine was getting dirty and I had to order new stops and plungers for all the flippers. That stopped it.

#1654 3 years ago

Agreed on the Colordmd.

#1656 3 years ago

Check out all the modes. DotXL is what mine is running.

#1662 3 years ago

With all the talk about the problems with the new Stern playfields lately, I was wondering how everyone's TSPP playfield compares. I was also wondering what issues anyone has had with their machines in general. I have had mine since April, it was made in '04, am very happy with it and the minor issues I have had (which are all remedied) are the garage ramp breaking, the upper playfield right flipper sticking up occasionally, the right flipper switch going out, playfield dirt coming back quickly, and that's it! No ghosting or lifting of any inserts, or any abnormal wear. I am thinking that the new Stern playfields are mylar coated and the adhesive is releasing in places.

#1664 3 years ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Mylar is applied in smaller problem areas like lockouts and pop bumpers. Not related to the playfield issues.

On the new playfields? So the ghosting is the clear separating? Thanks for the info.

1 week later
#1678 3 years ago

The metal ramp has a gentle curve bent into it to help loft the ball over the gap. Yours might need to be reshaped It is easily accessible by removing the upper playfield. Download a manual to get yourself familiar witn the workings of the machine. I noticed that on mine, the ramp had flattened out over the years so I removed and reshaped it. The ball goes quite easily to the vuk.

#1688 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

I think it's pretty clear that a gradual "deformation" of the garage ramp (which feeds the upper play field) may occur over time. Obviously getting to the UPF is a critical part of this game and having a ramp configured like the designer intended is going to have a big effect on the game. Been trying to collect a few different pictures of ramps with feedback on how difficult/consistent each game is in regards to getting to upper play field from garage. For what it's worth, here are pictures of 3 different ramps side by side (my ramp is in the middle and appears to have an obvious upward slope from left to right which will effect the performance of the ramp). If anyone else is able to take a pic of their ramp it would be appreciated. My game is still under warranty from the dealer and they are saying the slope is intentional but I'm just not convinced. It plays funky...and I realize the designer intended for it to take a solid shot to clear the ramp. Thanks guys!

Have you removed the upper playfield to get a better look?

#1692 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Not yet. I've got a tech coming out on Saturday and going to watch him do it first.

Once you see it, it won't be that difficult. It can be intimidating to work on these machines, but owning one is to work on one. That small metal ramp is easily removed and reshaped. It does get hammered in operation and this is normal.

#1695 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

the game is still covered under warranty from the company I bought from so they are covering tech time. He is going to fix issue with itchy and scratch middle drop target and also the issue with the ball getting periodically stuck on way up to the upper play field.

Both of these are simple fixes. I had an issue where one of the I&S targets would stay up and interfere with ball ejection. It was a broken wire at the small coil that lowers the targets.

#1697 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

That is exactly the issue I'm having with the middle target. Great call!

Those targets get bashed pretty hard and the wires that wrap around the tiny release coils are very thin. Removing the entire drop target assembly to work on it was the way to go. Pretty straightforward as it just unplugs from the harness. I was able to resolder the wire to the tab. Make sure to leave some slack so that it doesn't break again.

#1702 3 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

Its good to know your limitations. Learn and ask questions without getting in the way or on the techs nerves. Esp while its under warrantee. No doubt the machine will need tweaks and fixes along the way after the warrantee period. You will learn by getting your feet wet and asking questions on pinside of course.
One word of caution on leds and TSPP. I didnt like them until i got the LEDOCD add on board. That is definitely the way to go. Not all machines need the LEDOCD but with TSPP its 100% needed IMHO.

For gi I have no issues running Comet leds. I am using incandescents for inserts.

#1704 3 years ago

Yes. I edited right after posting but you beat me to it.

#1716 3 years ago

Who has put on the Kwik-E-Mart label? I had a hard time shelling out close to 20 bucks for this label so I printed this after adjusting for size, covered it with clear packaging tape (mylar will work) and attached it over the existing label using double-sided foam strip.


#1725 3 years ago

At 10 bucks I would definitely get it. I saw them on eBay for 15 plus shipping. That was a while back.

#1736 3 years ago

Where did you get the scenery for the sides?

#1743 3 years ago

Well, I sent a pm to the guy, but no response as of yet...

#1745 3 years ago

Just donated for the stickers. Looking forward to installing.

#1753 3 years ago

I ran a piece of electrical tape right down the middle of the fluorescent tube from left to right and it made the backglass glare livable.

#1760 3 years ago
Quoted from oogiebooogie:

That what i did for all of my machines, but the electrical tape will shrink due to the heat and leave sticky substance on the tube. But who cares, as longs as it remove the glare while I'm playing-all good!

Actually, I used a lightly sticky tape used to wrap wire looms for mine because of that.

#1774 3 years ago

I can't figure out how you pulled the playfield. How many connections are there? And get that Quik E Mart sticker!

#1777 3 years ago

Looking forward to seeing what you have planned

#1781 3 years ago

I installed a full Cliffy set and leds for the GI.

#1788 3 years ago

I see that you are missing an eos switch actuator, but that won't cause the buzzing. Why are there 2 springs?

#1791 3 years ago

Ditto on the coil stops. I bought new ones from Marco. That will also cut down on black dust. Since you have it apart, it would be a good idea to inspect the plungers, sleeves, rebound stops and coil stops.

#1793 3 years ago

The stop needs to make solid, complete contact with the plunger. I guess the plunger was ok. This machine uses direct current, so you might ask why would it buzz anyway... The flippers are controlled through the cpu and pulse very rapidly after actuation to avoid coil burn. Similar to an end-of-stroke circuit on an EM. The eos on TSPP opens at full stroke to not reduce current, but to signal to the cpu to fully energize the coil if the flipper is hit by the ball hard enough to drop it, closing the switch, while at full stroke.

#1799 3 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Hey guys im new to the club. Getting my machine tomorrow. Super excited and cant wait. How hard is it to install a color DMD? Plan on buying one next month

Make sure to remove the fuse in the display driver board and secure the cables that you disconnect. If you leave the cables loose or don't pull the fuse the cable can accidentally short circuit with something in the backbox.

#1811 3 years ago

As I recall everything except the tv connection goes through the hole.

1 week later
#1838 3 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

It could be. Whats a knocker?

Hahaha. Sorry.

2 weeks later
#1947 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Dumb question. Where do you find the version of code you are running? Tried to look in the menus but couldn't find it. Thanks guys. -- craig

It is briefly displayed on the dmd at bootup.

1 week later
#1982 3 years ago

Got to alien invasion last night and twice got two balls stuck in the I&S hole. Arrgh.

#1984 3 years ago

I will try that if it ever happens again.

#1993 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Upgraded ROM to 5.0 and now balls loaded into the coach are not draining after the game ends. So if you have 2 balls in the coach at the end of a game, when you start a new game the 2 balls remain in the couch and it only takes 1 ball in the new game to start multiball. Is there a setting that controls this behavior? Thanks for any input! -- Craig

This should not be happening. If there are any balls remaining in the couch from the previous game, they should be discharged at the start of the new game. The display may read "looking for pinballs" until the balls are back in the drain.

#1998 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Upgraded ROM to 5.0 and now balls loaded into the coach are not draining after the game ends. So if you have 2 balls in the coach at the end of a game, when you start a new game the 2 balls remain in the couch and it only takes 1 ball in the new game to start multiball. Is there a setting that controls this behavior? Thanks for any input! -- Craig

I am baffled as to why I was downvoted for my prior response. The machine is supposed to eject any balls remaining in the couch at the start of the game, regardless of the setting to hold the balls or not. What I am reading is that the balls are not ejecting and that is not normal. My machine does not do it no matter how it is set.

#2000 3 years ago

My machine dumps the balls when the new game starts even if the setting is to save them.

#2002 3 years ago
Quoted from brad808:

That means something isn't working right then. The setting should work perfectly fine. By default the game will hold the couch locks between games.

I am apparently wrong here. I have just played with the settings and it does hold the balls. I must have set it for one player instead of always. Sorry about that.

#2005 3 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

This is not normal behavior.

See two posts back.

#2014 3 years ago
Quoted from atwong:

Just curious why you should never use electrical contact cleaner? Isn't it was it's designed for?

Not for pinball machines. Ever.

1 week later
#2051 3 years ago

There was one on cl locally for 3k but that turned out to be a fake ad. He answered my email asking for my phone number and never called back. Why not just email me his phone number?

#2054 3 years ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

CL is a waste of time.

I bought my TSPP six months ago from CL. A great seller and a solid machine.

#2055 3 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Doesn't necessarily mean it's fake. Could be someone offered more between getting your email and calling you back.

One red flag on this ad is that he responded to my email saying there were 4 others interested and I emailed him first off his ad. He wanted me to email him my phone number?? C'mon. He could have emailed me his number if he was serious. No photos other than stock photos in the ad. The big red flag was the price. No way.

2 weeks later
#2093 3 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Anyone install the garage door Cliffy and notice fewer "makes" on the garage door shot? I might be crazy, but I think that ever since I installed the Cliffy on the garage door ramp, (which was not broken) the shot ends up going to the Cletus orbit a little more often.

That's possible. The Cliffy might add a little to the height of the receiving ramp. I put mine under the plastic ramp and reinforced it with epoxy.

#2142 3 years ago

Some fun things that have happened to me- Getting couch multiball with no actual balls in the couch, getting a ball stuck in the closing garage door during a multiball, having the I&S targets reset while a ball is on them, getting two in the garage at once, having an airball land on a metal ramp, zipping through Otto non-stop, and a bunch more.

3 weeks later
#2183 3 years ago

I have found that changing the hard to get to bulbs from underneath the playfield is easier.

1 week later
#2203 3 years ago

I have 2 EMs next to TSPP. A great contrast.

IMG_20160926_065413 (resized).jpg

2 months later
#2295 3 years ago

The kwikimart sign is very important.

2 weeks later
#2392 3 years ago

I put the Cliffys on my game. The garage ramp was cracked when I bought it. And it has always been huo.

#2403 3 years ago

If you still have the other piece, you can epoxy them together and use a small strip of plastic to reinforce the joint. Then use the Cliffy as well. I had to do this on my ramp. No problem after that.

#2406 3 years ago

It is not supposed to do that. The ball should be dropped into the flipper return lane. Check the alignment of the ramp. It may be bent a bit.

#2410 3 years ago
Quoted from konghusker:

That's how I have it set now just so casual players have a chance to see this mode. I need to find a manual so I can find what all the settings actually do. Such a fun game to strategize for.

The manual is downloadable from IPDB

#2418 3 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

Have a question. When holding the left flipper. The game emits an error buzzing sound. Lately its been getting louder so im trying to find out whats causing it. Everyone things run perfect though

Error buzzing sound? Is there an error displayed? Maybe you can attach a video..

1 week later
#2452 3 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Game isn't working right if you started mb on a new game, yet only locked one ball and were awarded locks for balls there from the previous game. There is a setting in the menu to release the balls from the couch after each game ends, but any balls left up there do not count as free locks.

They do count as free locks. The default setting is to hold the balls. Everything can be adjusted and set according to preference in the service portal.

1 week later
#2493 3 years ago

Is that Moe's Tavern mod still available from anywhere?

#2499 3 years ago

Looks great. Can you keep the strobe with the bar installed?

3 weeks later
#2543 3 years ago

Your flipper return springs are shot or your flippers need rebuilding.

4 weeks later
#2583 3 years ago

Itchy and Scratchy hole ejection tip:
The ball was getting more air than I thought it should when ejected out of the hole. I discovered that the metal deflector needed to be bent a tiny bit away from the playfield and now it ejects nice and low along the playfield surface with no damaging bounce. It can be aimed a bit, too.

#2597 3 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

The goals and objectives are simple to understand so that isn't the issues. It just seems like you get only 100 points each for everything that you hit. I have long game times but in the end still can't even get close to putting my initials up in 4th place. Out of all of my collection this is the only machine that I can't get my initials on and I've spent the last three months playing it almost daily.

The slingshots are worth 110 points and they are the lowest scoring items in the game by far. I think the pops are worth 10,000?

edit- I see you are talking about Houdini. Never mind.

1 week later
#2616 2 years ago

The upper flippers have plenty of power to make the shots needed.

#2633 2 years ago

The deflector can be adjusted by removing the decorative plastic cover that Itchy and Scratchy are attached to and loosening the nuts that secure the deflector. The ball can be aimed to strike the left flipper squarely, sometimes bouncing off the flipper and going right back into the hole.

#2640 2 years ago

Left Flipper. D'oh. Edited above.

1 week later
#2667 2 years ago
Quoted from ronaldvg:

That is nice machine ! But... You can deck her out some more: Moe's Tavern, Alien mod, artblades, decals for all the targets, extra figurines, orange convolux protectors on all plastics, speakerpanel decal, powdercoating etc. TSPP is a beauty and will be the last to leave her also.

HAH. And you don't even have the Kwik E Mart sticker!

1 week later
#2721 2 years ago

Just 4 big connectors. The small ones stay connected.

#2740 2 years ago
Quoted from finnflash:

Finally joined the club!! A lot of mods, and some extra pinblades that i dont think i will need if anyone is interested.
Here is what came on this one, Invisiglass, colordmd, speaker lights, back box led lights, Moe's and Duff beer mods, and I'm sure i am forgetting some things.
Loving it!!

Gotta get the Kwik-E-Mart sticker. Surprising how many folks don't get this as it is the simplest mod ever.

#2744 2 years ago
Quoted from Mrawesome44:

The black block on the right side. What's it's purpose and how do i remove it? Trying to put mirror blades in

You can pull it off. I think it is just stapled in. Look for screws.

#2767 2 years ago

I recommend the I&S hole protector from Pinbits and the Kwik-E-Mart sticker.

#2803 2 years ago

The replacement sleeves are too fat. I bought a replacement rubber kit and some of the black sleeves were too big. Just a little bit, but enough to cause the same problem. You will need to replace them. as for the TV, it sounds like the rollover switch does not register the ball. They go bad. Easy fix.

#2805 2 years ago

Can't you put some mylar over the stickers?

#2813 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

It was me who snagged it! Looking forward to reading all these pages and catching up. I used to play the hell out of this in my college days, looking forward to the reunion. Big ups to mrawesome44 for being a good dude and recruiting the whole family to help load.
Edit: what are the factory post placements for the game? I'm a shit player but I'm getting some stupid long ball times.

First order of business:

Factory positions are shown on page 68

1 month later
#2931 2 years ago
Quoted from Yoko2una:

Wow, very interesting. Looks like not only is there a wide span of colors but also register inaccuracies. In my head there's that same voice that yells "you don't play the cabinet, stupid" that's now saying that I don't play the PF... but I do and I can't unsee the Wiggum/SLH/Donut/Lou items. Seems like this PF, though overall in light routed condition, is really not the best in terms of density and alignment. Something I'll have to consider.
Also, one thing that really bugs me about TSPP, though totally cosmetic, is Homer's head. I've seen some people replace it with other figures, but is there a replacement, or mod to the original that fixes his damn eyes from being THAT far apart???
I went into MS paint and made 3 pics of Homer. Left is the stock photo for the replacement on Marco Specialties. 2nd photo has the pupils moved inward 1 pupil width. 3rd photo has them moved 1/2 more of a pupil width and down 1/2 length. Looking at some stock photos of Homer looking straight at the camera, it makes the TSPP Homer look ridiculous IMO. If there was a replacement, a way to wash/white out the current pupils and repaint, or an overlay to go over the eyes, I think it would be a must-do. Anyone head of this or tackled it themselves? Hell, even gluing a toy hammer, baseball, or other blunt object to the top of his head to make the stock eyes look funny could work.

Never mentioned before, but I do agree about his eyes. I would like to have them moved in. Doesn't do a thing for the game the way they are.

#2942 2 years ago

I still love the show, especially for all the allusions. Very quick. It really can't stay the same over time.

#2960 2 years ago
Quoted from Darkwing:

Just wanted to share that I finally beat Alien Invasion, on the first ball + extra balls. Felt like I could do no wrong. Then almost instantly drained balls 2 and 3 lol... Simpsons put me back in place

Congrats on beating AI. When I get to play that mode I am usually pretty beat.

#2979 2 years ago
Quoted from djoverpour:

I have this one that I bought from Bright Lights Pinball. I like it and it was easy to install.

What is the setting to display the scores that way?

#2983 2 years ago
Quoted from emkay:

Are you two talking about the same thing?

I don't think so. What I was asking is not about the resolution as I am running a Colordmd as well. How do you set up the scores to look that way with regard to size of the text?

#2992 2 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

He has the high score initials set to 10 letters instead of three.

Thank you!

2 weeks later
#3032 2 years ago

Normal behavior when powered up with the hold couch balls feature enabled.

#3034 2 years ago

There probably is something on the lower side of the upper pf blocking the ball path. Check that the plastic protector on the lower side of the upper playfield is secured properly.

#3038 2 years ago

I don't have my machine to reference that piece. Can you post a pick where it came from?

2 weeks later
#3080 2 years ago

If the batteries were dead, replacing them won't bring back your scores.

#3087 2 years ago

Have you tried a factory reset? Roms can go bad, too.

#3089 2 years ago

I would reseating connectors, cables. Are batteries off the board and new or do you have a NVRAM installed?

2 weeks later
#3145 2 years ago

If the room lights are dimming then, a) your house wiring needs to be checked, or, b) there are wayyyy too many amps being drawn when the flippers operate.

2 weeks later
#3226 2 years ago

Feature adjustment 36. Allow volume effects.

1 week later
#3255 2 years ago

This has been remarked upon before. That is a lot of money for a bootleg. I don't feel right supporting that.

#3258 2 years ago

A justification to buy these is that the licensed company doesn't offer them for sale and the need is there. I would probably get them if needed, but the price? That is a bit too high I think.

#3275 2 years ago

I adjusted my side drain to make it a little easier. It was frustrating.

#3280 2 years ago

Now is a great time for a Colordmd. But, try replacing the cap and see if that remedies the problem first.

#3289 2 years ago


IMG_20180106_210705 (resized).jpg

#3291 2 years ago

It did take a while. Didn't beat AI but did get pretzel, scratchies revenge, secret stash, daredevil mania.... Whew.

3 weeks later
#3319 2 years ago

The outlanes are brutal in the stock configuration. You can move them to retain the ball in play a bit longer. The left one in particular is the one I would adjust first..

#3336 2 years ago

Yes, patience and take pics prior to disassembly.

#3344 2 years ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

I'm not sure if this video will work, anyway my friends TSPP started blinking and it appears the DMD blacked out. Any ideas?

I would try a factory reset first. Maybe the rom is bad?

1 week later
#3378 2 years ago
Quoted from LoserKid3:

Hey guys! I picked up my TSPP last week and been cleaning it. I replaced the batteries and replaced a couch switch, the one by the ball release. Now when I hit the ball up there it registers lock 1. Then I get ball 2 up there, the game recognizes the 2nd ball, lights up the flasher, and it drops ball one out the release. The light locks aren't lit up. I tapped them just in case and dropped the ball back into the couch but it still just released the ball. I did a factory reset but It still does the same thing. Any suggestions?

First thing you wanna do get those batteries outta there by either using a NVRAM chip or separate battery holder. Battery leakage is very bad.

#3388 2 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

Anyone experience flipper delay on their TSPP? On both flipper presses there is a slight delay in raising them. It's intermittent but happens frequently.

This is most likely caused by worn switches. You may be able to offset the contacts a tiny bit by loosening the screws first, moving them laterally then re tighten. They may need to be replaced or the mechs need to be rebuilt.

1 month later
#3410 2 years ago

Yes, get the Cliffy set.

#3416 2 years ago

It pulls out away from the tv, not up. It should be tight. No clips.

#3424 2 years ago

A great mod. I am surprised nobody ever did this.

#3429 2 years ago

A color display, however you do it, is needed.

#3439 2 years ago

Installs; factory.

#3447 2 years ago

I replaced a lot of the gi bulbs under the ramps and hard to get to places from under the playfield.

#3451 2 years ago

No Kwik-E-Mart sign? Are you kidding me?

#3459 2 years ago

Does it work in diagnostic mode? Loose connection would be my first guess. Start at the solenoid. Bad diode or broken coil wire, intermittent contact?

#3464 2 years ago

Be careful with the flipper switches. They are not meant to be filed or sanded. Only clean with alcohol and cardstock.

2 weeks later
#3476 2 years ago
Quoted from Balaraform:

Just picked up my machine. I love it, going to take some time getting to a high score.

Congrats on getting one of the best out there.

#3479 2 years ago

Get those batteries outta there! Why would anyone still have batteries?

#3483 2 years ago

You can try a factory reset and see if that clears the hiccup. You will lose all of your saved config and score data and audits, though.

#3491 2 years ago

Nice. Need Colordmd, though.

#3493 2 years ago

It is a plug in chip. Just make sure that the pins are spaced correctly and lined up. Mine needed tweaking.

#3499 2 years ago

Speakers won't matter very much because the quality of the audio is very low fidelity. In other words, you can't polish a turd.

#3501 2 years ago

If you want to spend the money, I won't stop you. Personally, the money would be better spent on a Colordmd.

#3507 2 years ago

Yeah, I remember that the notch was different. The pins did not lineup exactly-the spread across was too narrow-but I was able to reorient them so it went right in. Works great.

#3526 2 years ago
Quoted from mjs2:

Thanks for the reply's all makes sense to me; and good knowledge about the NVRAM above as my 6264 showed up yesterday. Waiting on my 5.0 code to show up and will do both at the same time. Looks like a rainy weekend here on the east coast so good time to pull the top play field, finish cleaning under there and replace all the rubbers, expected date for those is Friday, coming along and haven't broken anything yet!

Regarding the 5 rom- ensure that two rows of pins are the correct distance apart before plugging it in. I've seen a few that were too narrow and had to be adjusted to fit correctly.

#3529 2 years ago

Now you're talkin'

#3533 2 years ago

AFAIK, there are no updated sound files.

3 weeks later
#3535 2 years ago

Sweet. You can add some nuclear lollipop side rails...

#3540 2 years ago

You have a long way to go on that score, buddy. I like the Duff speaker stickers. Where did you get those?

#3543 2 years ago

I think that they aren't too much, but tasteful.

#3546 2 years ago

Playfield pitch should be 6.5 degrees. The deflector can be adjusted to your liking, however, if there is a divot as you say, that can have an effect. Maybe smooth it down with something or buy a new deflector. Mine hits the left flipper every time and and about half the time bounces right back into the I&S hole.

2 months later
#3598 1 year ago

Installing the right ramp cliffy isn't hard as long as you have the correct tools. The left ramp was more difficult and will require a bit of time. The speaker panel sticker can stretch a bit while applying and then it won't line up with the openings. I cut mine into two pieces, left and right, and it looks perfect. The right side art blade needed trimming at the rear edge to fit properly.

#3606 1 year ago

The best thing for you to do is to email cliffy and he will send you the instructions on how to install these. In the pic, the one on the right fastens to the left edge of the right ramp, the one on the left attaches to the left edge of the left ramp along with the new orange post.

#3607 1 year ago

There are nuts on the undersides of both ramps that will need to held during the installation process.

#3608 1 year ago

As for the art blades, I found that the cabinet support in the right rear necessitated the trimming of the plastic blade so it would fit against the cabinet nicely.

#3623 1 year ago

A great tutorial is here:

1 week later
#3653 1 year ago

Here is a manual in living color:


#3654 1 year ago

There is a setting that is defaulted to raising the volume for certain events, feature adjustment 36, like multi-ball, in the features menu.

#3656 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

So there is a way to adjust so all modes pretty much play at the same level, and do not spike during certain modes like AI?

Yes, feature adjustment 36

#3658 1 year ago
Quoted from weaselfest:

awesome D, thank you. Hadn't seen the full color version of the manual before. Much easier on the eyes. Thanks for explaining the "allow volume effects" adjustment.
Am I missing an adjustment to defeat the "Team" feature when playing a 4 person game too?

I looked for that, but I don't think there is one.

#3664 1 year ago

Yeah, go with it, I say.

#3666 1 year ago

Check for free movement after removing the upper playfield and check for interference from wires, plastic etc.

1 week later
#3694 1 year ago

A single pop won't validate the playfield. As long as the plunger lane skill shot light is flashing, you can drain and the ball will be recovered.

1 week later
#3708 1 year ago

The sound roms are of low fidelity and better speakers will not improve the quality of the overall sound that much. I myself have never heard a TSPP with upgraded speakers, but this what I have gathered on the forum.

#3730 1 year ago

Stuck where in the garage? On the ramp or the VUK?

#3747 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Balls are getting stuck on the damn ramp. Just can't quite figure out which bundles of wires to adjust in order to get the clearance I need.

The ramp is narrow and over time, can actually deform enough to grip the ball. Is that the problem?

#3760 1 year ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Great!! I actually just did it. Just took two 4.7 kOhm resistors and soldered directly over (parallel) the existing R106 and R110 resistors. Quick and dirty. It doesn't let me adjust anything, but it improved the speaker noise quite a bit. Awesome...
Now if only i could get rid of my transformes noise in the machine as well. Seems that is a lot harder as i already tried the "bash it wit a hammer"-approach, tightening it to the cabinet and tightening the bolts that goes thru the transformer it self. But still no luck

Try rubber mounting the transformer.

#3765 1 year ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Any tips about this? Links or images from others that have done it? Or do I just insert small rubber rings between the bottom of the bracket and the cabinet?

Personally, I haven't done it, but I would just try some rubber grommets between the transformer and the screws that mount it.

#3770 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Anyone have an extra I&S hole pinbits protector? They're sold out and don't pickup the phone or return emails.

Cliff can maybe get one for you.

#3777 1 year ago

Best to upgrade to the stronger Williams brackets. Check your cabinet for separation.

3 weeks later
#3799 1 year ago

Looks like the intent was to put a large staple like what is right at the ball entrance to the upper playfield from the vuk. Not needed in production.

#3811 1 year ago
Quoted from BioBa:

Thank you very much.
Strange the manual does not show that sort of post. I am sure you are right someone has slipped an additional rubber sleeve over that lower end of the post. Kind of a mod to protect the post probably.

If you search IPDB for TSPP and download a manual, every single part is listed.

#3820 1 year ago

You can adjust the difficulty levels.

#3828 1 year ago

Great score on that mint TSPP. I recommend the full cliffy set, especially the garage ramp. I put some mylar on the ball drops as well.

#3833 1 year ago
Quoted from sk8ersublime:

My ball constantly jumps out of the monorail. Ive tried adjusting it, the screw, the machine is level, but sometimes it still flies out and goes right down the right outlane. i just live with it now

There is something misaligned. It should never do that.

#3842 1 year ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

I pitch mine around 8-9... never had one jump with the washers.

2 weeks later
#3861 1 year ago

The decals are great! Have them on mine. Sillyoldelf has a solid product.

#3867 1 year ago
Quoted from Ben38:

I'm interested to know how you will deal with the speaker panel decal. I have mine waiting for installation. But I don't know how to do with the notch in the middle of the board.
Either to fill the notch with wood glue, or stick the decal over the hole.

The speaker panel is the trickiest. Mine stretched a bit while I was applying it so it would no longer fit squarely over the holes. I remedied by cutting it in half left and right and the small overlap is not noticeable at all. It sticks into the notch just fine and stays there. Looks great.

#3870 1 year ago

I will post a Pic of mine soon. One solution that just occurred to me is to cut small vertical slits at the edge of the notch and press the decal in.

#3872 1 year ago

My speaker panel.

1 month later
#3915 1 year ago

That switch does go bad. Keep some handy.

3 weeks later
#4005 1 year ago
Quoted from Maken:

New GC for me tonight, 491M.
Completed Secret Stash, Daredevil Mania, Scratchy's Revenge and had 7 SJPs.
Did not complete Mystery Spot or Alien Invasion, played both twice.
Finished Mystery Spot last night in a separate game, but have never finished Alien Invasion.
Getting close.

That's an achievement!

2 weeks later
#4028 1 year ago

I agree on the size being too big. It blocks the playfield view.

3 weeks later
#4045 1 year ago

First, get rid of the batteries and get an NVRAM chip. Second, the extra ball score will change by itself if it is routinely reached. Normal.

#4047 1 year ago

A great first pin. Any questions, ask!

#4050 1 year ago

A TSPP will fit in a Rav4 with the head folded down. Which suv are you using?

#4051 1 year ago

1 week later
#4074 1 year ago

PinGraffix has something. Silly Old Elf as well, but they are fragile.

#4089 1 year ago

The proper term is blown out I&S hole.

#4096 1 year ago

Wear will be evident in the I&S hole, the ramps, the inlane ball drops, and the drain or out hole.

#4103 1 year ago

It should shoot it up the first time it fires. The only time mine takes two or three times is if I happen to have 2 pinballs in there at the same instant so it has to fire both up to the upper playfield.

#4105 1 year ago

No. Probably a worn coil stop.

#4109 1 year ago

Recently I have noticed some "ghosting" on the led arrows on the mode board by the TV in attract mode and play mode. Also, the letters scrolling the TV in attract mode are a just a little bit off, like jagged. I am thinking this may be a rom issue as there have been rare occurrences of strange behavior while playing. Things like the Hurry Up sound not being played, the ball in play ending when a couch lock is made, etc. The rom is 5.0 and was purchased online about 2 years ago. What do you guys think?

#4112 1 year ago

Looks like garage, left and right ramp protectors.

#4116 1 year ago

I agree. Some of those mode are priced out of the ball park.

#4122 1 year ago
Quoted from J_Striker:

Anyone interested in a NIB Tilt toppers TSPP topper? $260 total I paid, I would do $225 shipped in the US


2 weeks later
#4154 1 year ago

It's called freeze time.

1 week later
#4175 1 year ago
Quoted from adol75:

Can you post the link ?

Stern replacement flipper parts are available at Marco.com

#4178 1 year ago

I would try cleaning or replacing the coil sleeve.

#4191 1 year ago

I placed mylar under the ball drops, similar to what Stern does today. A full set of Cliffies doesn't hurt, either.


#4203 1 year ago

Cliffys are at http://www.passionforpinball.com/TSPP.htm

Plastics you can find on eBay.

#4206 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

he doesn't make the itchy and scratchy gobble hole protector though.

That's right. He lets you know that and points to Pinbits. Very clear.

2 weeks later
#4225 1 year ago

Make sure that there are no issues with the couch mb release. They make a strengthened bracket that is available at Marco.

1 week later
#4236 11 months ago

The itchy and scratchy mod limits the ball visibility leading to the upper right flipper which will hurt the accuracy for the left ramp shot, IMHO.

2 weeks later
#4259 11 months ago

Eww. Nuclear green or yellow would have more appeal.

#4269 11 months ago

Standard pitch is 6.5. That's where mine is set. The auto-plunge goes into the Kick-E-Mart.

#4272 11 months ago

Looks neat. Two suggestions, if I may. The flippers need cleaning and would look great with some Titan rubbers. Get a Kwik-E-Mart sticker.

1 week later
#4290 10 months ago
Quoted from Electronmagic:

I guess my Simpsons has a little Gottlieb DNA in it. [quoted image]

Same here.

1 week later
#4314 10 months ago

I have had two bulbs in a row be bad.
Could be the bulb to socket connection.

2 weeks later
#4370 9 months ago

The garage door switch is probably bad. You can check it in test mode.

#4387 9 months ago

No Kwikemart sticker? Are you nuts?

#4406 9 months ago

Yes. Ensure the old cable is secure away from any connectors.

#4447 9 months ago