(Topic ID: 50801)

The Simpsons Pinball Party (TSPP) Owners Club..... Members Only!!!

By kwiKimart

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 7,283 posts
  • 710 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by sllerts
  • Topic is favorited by 331 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_7854 (resized).jpeg
63C0A1C8-924E-4AA5-8A66-A3C65298F62E (resized).jpeg
Screenshot 2024-04-03 at 10.11.55 AM (resized).png
CD446378-C181-45FD-8BB1-987240C63FC1 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0390 Copy (resized).jpeg
IMG_0391 Copy (resized).jpeg
IMG_0393 Copy (resized).jpeg
IMG_0399 (resized).jpeg
IMG_5056 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6529 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6498 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6490 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6491 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6488 (resized).jpeg
IMG_6489 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20240129_174034 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider cserold.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1673 7 years ago

New to TSPP and home pinball ownership. Just bought a TSPP. I know the game is designed so that you need a really solid shot to make it to the upper play field from the garage. However, my game seems more difficult than the others I've played and more concerning it seems really inconsistent. I noticed the ramp behind the garage is at an angle (slopes up from left to right). See attached image. Would really appreciate it if you all think this is the proper ramp configuration. Pics of your ramps would be awesome for comparison.

I'm also having the issue of the ball getting "stuck" periodically when it's supposed to enter the upper play field. It takes a ball search for the ball to finally make it to the upper play field. Would also appreciate any feedback on what could be causing this issue as well. Cheers, Craig

IMG_2600 (resized).JPGIMG_2600 (resized).JPG

#1676 7 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

The switch on the VUK in upper left needs adjusted and/or replaced so that ot consistently registers the ball sitting on top of it.
You can remove the upper playfield and see it from top. Or remove the mech from bottom and adjust it.
When you have the upper playfield off you can debug whats wrong with the garage center ramp.
There are 3 or 4 connectors under the playfield that i would label very carefully before disconnecting. I used a black sharpie and wrote 1 1 2 2 3 3 on the plastic connectors so it was dumb simple to know how it goes back together.

Rick, thanks for the information on the VUK switch and how to access that. Does your garage ramp appear to slope upward from left to right like mine does in this pic? The company I bought the pin from says its normal but the performance of the ramp feels very inconsistent so I'm trying to figure out what the ramp slope is like in other TSPP games. Thanks all.

#1681 7 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

I sold my game a few months back. But i thought it looked slanted. There is a metal ramp and then a jump over a gap and then a plastic ramp the sends the ball around to the upper left corner. The front lip of that plastic ramp can often grt damage.
Cliffy makes some protectors for this game that i put on as soon as i got the game. There is one for the front edge of the plastic center ramp for sure.
If you take the upper playfield off it will be obvious if you have a problem.
Upper playfield come off fairly easy. Remove the backstop leds/bulbs on left, Loosen a couple black thumb screws near the upper flippers and it comes up. Like i said there are quite a few wires goign to that upper playfield. So take time.
Rick

Rick, thank you. Did you take the TV off before taking off the UPF or is that not necessary?

#1682 7 years ago
Quoted from ramegoom:

Does this help?

Yes, it does! Thank you for taking the time to get a picture. The ramp in the picture you sent looks much level and conducive to launching the ball to make the UPF vs. the one I posted above.

#1684 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Tv can stay. There are three or four connectors underneath the playfield, including one for the tv, label and unplug them, then remove the three thumbscrews and the pf lifts right up. If i were you, i would put leds under that playfield so you never have to remove it to change a bulb.

Thank you. Pretty sure game had all bulbs replaced with LED before I bought it from dealer but I will double check that. Good call. -- Craig

#1686 7 years ago

I think it's pretty clear that a gradual "deformation" of the garage ramp (which feeds the upper play field) may occur over time. Obviously getting to the UPF is a critical part of this game and having a ramp configured like the designer intended is going to have a big effect on the game. Been trying to collect a few different pictures of ramps with feedback on how difficult/consistent each game is in regards to getting to upper play field from garage. For what it's worth, here are pictures of 3 different ramps side by side (my ramp is in the middle and appears to have an obvious upward slope from left to right which will effect the performance of the ramp). If anyone else is able to take a pic of their ramp it would be appreciated. My game is still under warranty from the dealer and they are saying the slope is intentional but I'm just not convinced. It plays funky...and I realize the designer intended for it to take a solid shot to clear the ramp. Thanks guys!

TSPP-Ramp (resized).pngTSPP-Ramp (resized).png

#1690 7 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Have you removed the upper playfield to get a better look?

Not yet. I've got a tech coming out on Saturday and going to watch him do it first.

#1693 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Hopefully you arent paying him to remove the upper pf, its really very easy to do. Once you do it, it will give you confidence to do other things.
Btw, in addition to replacing bulbs on the upper of, replace all of the gi bulbs in that area especially the one(s) by comic book guy, which cannot be accessed from underneath.

the game is still covered under warranty from the company I bought from so they are covering tech time. He is going to fix issue with itchy and scratch middle drop target and also the issue with the ball getting periodically stuck on way up to the upper play field.

#1694 7 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

That small metal ramp is easily removed and reshaped. It does get hammered in operation and this is normal.

Thank you for confirming that you have experienced this and have corrected with reshaping the ramp.

#1696 7 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Both of these are simple fixes. I had an issue where one of the I&S targets would stay up and interfere with ball ejection. It was a broken wire at the small coil that lowers the targets.

That is exactly the issue I'm having with the middle target. Great call!

#1699 7 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Those targets get bashed pretty hard and the wires that wrap around the tiny release coils are very thin. Removing the entire drop target assembly to work on it was the way to go. Pretty straightforward as it just unplugs from the harness. I was able to resolder the wire to the tab. Make sure to leave some slack so that it doesn't break again.

Good to know. Looking forward to pretending like I'm an expert when the tech shows up! Thanks again. -- Craig

1 week later
#1761 7 years ago

Hey guys,
Having some issues with the multi-ball couch on my machine. Would appreciate feedback on the following if you can.

1. Often the multi-ball will trigger when there are only 2 balls locked in the couch and the game auto-plunges the third ball. Is this normal behavior that is enabled by some sequence of events prior to locking the second ball in the couch (i.e. a bonus that would "start multiball with only 2 balls locked")

2. Every now and then when starting couch multi-ball, the last ball in the couch gets stuck when dropping through the bottom of the couch. The ball gets stuck because the metal pin is not retracted far enough to let the ball pass completely through. When this occurs, a ball search does not clear the ball so you are stuck and have to end your game. Has anyone ever experienced this and, if so, can you offer advice on the solution.

Greatly appreciate any feedback.

Craig

#1765 7 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

1. Yes this can happen as a matter of course; it will happen when you get the mystery award "ball lock" for instance.
2. I have not experienced this before sorry.
-Jim

Quoted from mavantix:

My thoughts on this may be you need to install the couch weld fix in your machine, as the back part of the couch weldment in older versions of TSPP is prone to bending causing miss-alignment of the coil, and thus binding the plunger up when it tries to release the balls.
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1893
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-9307-00
Here's what it looks like installed (second pic in first post):
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ever-wonder-what-the-tspp-was-and-what-problem-it-fixed
If your machine already has the weld fix, then maybe disassemble that coil, clean/replace coil sleeve?

Jim, Mavantix...thank you both for taking the time to reply. I will update the thread after finding a solution to the couch issue. -- Craig

#1766 7 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Both of these are simple fixes. I had an issue where one of the I&S targets would stay up and interfere with ball ejection. It was a broken wire at the small coil that lowers the targets.

Quick update on the issue with the middle I&S drop target not lowering during ball ejection. I had to replace the small coil beneath the middle drop target to fix the issue.

#1768 7 years ago
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:

If by chance it's not a misaligned coil due to the weldment issue - here's something else to check.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-couch-ball-release-intermittent-issue
(Skip forward a few posts - long story short - check the little plastic nylon part that lines the hole in the weldment that the coil plunger passes through. Mine was broken and causing an issue.)

Excellent. Very helpful. Turns out my game didn't have the fix applied yet. Have that on order and will also check the plastic nylon part you reference. Cheers, Craig

3 weeks later
#1849 7 years ago
Quoted from Deafcon:

The decals/stickers arrived from Sillyoldelf, and I printed some new apron cards. I haven't decided if I'm going to use the stickers on the backboard. I bought the Moe's tavern playmates set and may install that like others have.

Nice. Would you mind posting the link where you ordered those blades from? Thanks in advance.

#1850 7 years ago

Hey guys. Wanting to put the brightest/craziest LED flasher I can find inside the Duff Beer Can mod since the can greatly reduces the visibility of the light. Any links to what would be best would be appreciated. Thanks! Craig

#1851 7 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Nice. Would you mind posting the link where you ordered those blades from? Thanks in advance.

NM, found them on pinballdecals.com. Thanks!

#1859 7 years ago

Perfect. Hadn't even thought of doing an LED strip on the back of it. Great idea and thanks for sharing. -- Craig

#1875 7 years ago

Would appreciate some technical input. When the ball is exiting from behind the TV (on the upper play field) and you attempt to use the upper right flipper to hit the ball into the couch it's making a crazy loud buzzing sound. From what I've read it sounds like coils typically do this when something is off. The flipper is working at full strength. Think I may have read somewhere that it could be vibration between the coil and the sleeve. Has anybody ever experienced this issue? Any ideas or direction appreciated. Cheers, Craig

#1877 7 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

Are you sure it is the flipper making the buzzing sound and not the tv coil? It is super common for the tv coil to make this loud buzzing sound. The bracket that holds that coil gets out of shape pretty easily.

You may be right about that. Are you talking about the coil that operates the pin that locks the ball behind the TV?

#1881 7 years ago
Quoted from Rum-Z:

Mine does this exact same thing. I decided to leave it alone for now, because as brad808 says, it is a good audible cue that you've got a ball heading towards that upper couch lock flipper pronto. It's kinda like the whistle sound that White Water makes to give you a cue that the up kicker is firing a ball up to the upper playfield.

Interesting. Do we know exactly what is mechanically causing this sound?

#1882 7 years ago
Quoted from brad808:

TV buzz is a good audible cue when playing multiball

Ha. Good point! Is there no risk of damage to the game?

#1894 7 years ago

Ok, feel like an idiot but how the heck do you get the nuclear cooling tower plastics off the pop bumpers to change out the lights? Thanks for the help!

#1900 7 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

Go for the flipper fidelity one. Very nice addition.

I installed the Flipper Fidelity interactive back box lighting today and love it. However, the glare is pretty bad off the glass towards the top of the play field. Not having any luck dimming the lights using the remote control. Any advice from those who have installed this? How can I reduce the glare? I've seen those inserts you can use to remove DMD glare but didn't think that helped with the translite glare.

Thanks!!

#1903 7 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

Have you tried the invisiglass from JJP or PDI glass? I was thinking of trying that as I have the same issue.

Have not installed Invisiglass on TSPP yet but a friend also told me that would help. I was able to turn down the single color white lights on the board and that helped with the glare. It wasn't cheap but this interactive lighting addition was money well spent for this game. If you've got money burning a hole in your pocket check out this addition from Flipper Fidelity.

#1910 7 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

My thoughts exactly. PDI is definitely better when compared side by side, but Invisiglass gets the job done.

Are you guys agreeing that PDI or Invisiglass will both help reduce the glare off of the much brighter back box lighting when the Flipper Fidelity Interactive panel is installed?

#1912 7 years ago
Quoted from Rferullo:

I find most yellow LEDs suck. I use frosted white for yellow inserts.

Agree, I put yellow OpMax on my yellow inserts for TSPP and will be taking them out.

I used a few of these (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/opmax.htm) colored OpMax LEDs for my inserts and notice they say "GI." Are these bulbs not supposed to be used for inserts? If they aren't, what are the reasons?

Lastly, recommendations on the following (update: assume cost doesn't matter):

1. What is the best warm-white LED for GI?
2. What is the best colored LED for inserts?
3. What is the best warm-white LED for inserts?

Appreciate your input!

#1916 7 years ago
Quoted from Rferullo:

$20 DMD glare guard is the best mod ever! Plus you can take it from pin to pin. Same with the invisaglass but it's a little more then $20

Am I right that the DMD glare guards won't help with translite glare at all?

#1926 7 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Would appreciate some technical input. When the ball is exiting from behind the TV (on the upper play field) and you attempt to use the upper right flipper to hit the ball into the couch it's making a crazy loud buzzing sound. From what I've read it sounds like coils typically do this when something is off. The flipper is working at full strength. Think I may have read somewhere that it could be vibration between the coil and the sleeve. Has anybody ever experienced this issue? Any ideas or direction appreciated. Cheers, Craig

Alright, guys. I can't take this sound anymore and want to fix it..it's stupid loud on my machine. Thanks to your replies, I think the issue is with the flimsy metal bracket that is used to attach coil to TV. Does anybody have a recommendation on the best way to fix this? Any links to parts appreciated. Cheers, Craig

#1928 7 years ago

Mav, no. That was the couch. This is the TV on the UPF.

#1930 7 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Woooooosh! I saw "flimsy metal bracket" and missed "TV" altogether. Need to get some glasses, getting old..
So, on the TV release coil is the one making noise or the UPF right flipper? If the TV release coil, I'd make sure the plunger isn't upside down: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-tv-release-makes-a-buzzing-sound-when-a-ball-enters
...and if it's not that, try cleaning the coil / sleeve / and generally making sure things holding the coil are tight (so it can't vibrate around)? Mine does also make a decent "buzz" when it releases the ball, but it's only for a second... some noise from that coil is pretty normal, after all it's housed in a metal echo chamber.

It's definitely the TV coil. I will check the plunger to make sure. Although, if the plunger is upside down, doesn't it prevent the ball from clearing the plunger and feeding to the upper right flipper? Or not necessarily? I'm used to the game making a "humming" sound when the TV coil fires but this is a like deafening (and super annoying) buzz. I'll take a video and post. Is there no way to add a more substantial bracket to attach the coil to the TV?

#1933 7 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

It's definitely the TV coil. I will check the plunger to make sure. Although, if the plunger is upside down, doesn't it prevent the ball from clearing the plunger and feeding to the upper right flipper? Or not necessarily? I'm used to the game making a "humming" sound when the TV coil fires but this is a like deafening (and super annoying) buzz. I'll take a video and post. Is there no way to add a more substantial bracket to attach the coil to the TV?

Screwed around with the TV coil today. Bent the brackets so that the coil was nice and snug. Verified that coil does NOT make sound when firing from the diagnostics. Listen to the God awful sound this thing makes:

Here are pics of the coil. Couldn't figure out how to get the plunger out of the coil or remove the coil from the bracket. Can anybody tell if the plunger is in upside down or not?

IMG_3303 (resized).JPGIMG_3303 (resized).JPG

IMG_3304 (resized).JPGIMG_3304 (resized).JPG

#1941 7 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

Which version of the code are you running?

Dumb question. Where do you find the version of code you are running? Tried to look in the menus but couldn't find it. Thanks guys. -- craig

#1942 7 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

My tspp would make that exact sound. Horrific. I tried zipties and pinball dead foam on the coil stop. It helpped a bit. Kinda a hack.
Rick

Thanks Rick. Do you have an explanation for why the sound is not made when testing the coil in Diagnostics? In diags it makes the faintest little click when firing the plunger. No buzzing at all.

#1948 7 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

It is briefly displayed on the dmd at bootup.

Thanks. As Lermods pointed out above this only occurs if you disable "quick boot" from the Standard Adjustments menu. Mine was not disabled.

#1949 7 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

I put my finger on the brass center part of tp of coil and could stop it from vibrating and rattling. So thats why i tried putting some dead ball foam on it to stop the rattling...

Rick, thanks very much. Going to try your suggestions. -- Craig

#1952 7 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

So which version of the code are you running? I ask because the latest version of the code made some adjustments across the board to some of the coil power settings.

Verified that I'm running the freaking original code 2.01 and 2.03. Just ordered the 5.0 ROMs. Really hoping this helps.

Something else to consider here.... the local retail shop I bought this from sent out a new upper play field from a different machine because I was having lots of issues with the couch on my original UPF. Could this have created some issues? Everything else on the new UPF works perfectly. Also worth noting that this issue did not occur on the old UPF running same old code. Thanks guys. Really appreciate the help. - craig

#1953 7 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

I just saw your post in another thread... you are running really old code. Once you get the version 5 installed, do a full factory reset (in the menu) and see if your problem gets better. My guess is that it will.
Also, I know this is a big assumption, but you DO have the screws back in the coil stop bracket, right? In your picture, they are missing.

Thank you. Not that it matters but will factory reset clear high scores? Also, yes, I put the screws back in. Thank you for asking though...you never know! -- Craig

#1958 7 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

Is it the same TV assembly? If so, just make sure the two screws that hold the tv to the playfield are nice and tight as well.

Pretty sure it is a different TV. The TV is attached to the UPF unless you remove it correct?

#1960 7 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Screwed around with the TV coil today. Bent the brackets so that the coil was nice and snug. Verified that coil does NOT make sound when firing from the diagnostics. Listen to the God awful sound this thing makes: » YouTube video
Here are pics of the coil. Couldn't figure out how to get the plunger out of the coil or remove the coil from the bracket. Can anybody tell if the plunger is in upside down or not?

Was able to fix the loud buzzing sound when the ball is exiting from behind the TV on the upper play field. Updating to latest code didn't solve or reduce the intensity of the sound. Also, the plunger was not in upside down (this was the issue for several others with same problem). As many thought, it was all from vibration from the coil inside the metal bracket that is welded to the TV.

Here is what I did to fix it:

- Put a piece of this foam (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/626-5078-00) between the top of the coil and the metal bracket
- wrapped a zip tie around the entire metal bracket holding the coil and cinched it down as tight as a could to prevent the coil from future bending
- hand tightened all the screws attaching the bracket to the TV and the screws attaching the TV to the UPF.

There is no audible sound occurring now. Thanks for all the input and suggestions and hopefully this helps others with this problem.

#1961 7 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

My tspp would make that exact sound. Horrific. I tried zipties and pinball dead foam on the coil stop. It helpped a bit. Kinda a hack.
Rick

Rick, thanks for this suggestion. This worked perfect for me. Cheers, Craig

#1968 7 years ago
Quoted from Rager170:

Hey guys,
I am going to be looking at a huo TSPP next week and was wondering if anyone could tell me if there are any game specifics i should be looking for, like wear areas and such?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks

Here are some other things I would check:

1. Look at the entrance to the left (tree house) ramp and check for cracking or broken pieces
2. I would play the game and make sure you can at least get 25% of your shots through the garage and up to the upper play field. It requires a hard hit shot to jump the ramp and make the upper playfield but some games have ramp damage and other issues that make the shot near impossible. This is also a good time to make sure the VUK gets the ball to the upper playfield correctly.
3. Remove the glass and test the following:
a. Put a ball in the itchy and scratchy hole while the drop targets are UP and make sure they all drop accordingly and the ball is ejected succesfully.
b. Load three balls into the couch and make sure the game releases them in a delayed fashion and not all at once. In other words, ball 1 drops...2 or 3 second pause...ball 2 drops...2 or 3 pause...ball 3 drops.
c. Put a ball behind the TV on the upper play field and make sure the ball exits from behind the TV ok. You may notice a buzzing sound when this occurs which seems pretty common due to the vibration of the metal on metal construction of the coil.

Craig

#1980 7 years ago
Quoted from brad808:

Unfortunately even with 5.0 there are still circumstances this can happen. I've experienced it myself a few times.

My machine actually had a coil issue that was preventing the middle drop target from dropping for the eject. Had to replace the small coil below the target. Wasn't immediately obvious when I bought the game because you don't always get a ball into the I&S hole with the middle target up.

#1988 7 years ago

Upgraded ROM to 5.0 and now balls loaded into the coach are not draining after the game ends. So if you have 2 balls in the coach at the end of a game, when you start a new game the 2 balls remain in the couch and it only takes 1 ball in the new game to start multiball. Is there a setting that controls this behavior? Thanks for any input! -- Craig

#1996 7 years ago

I think this is the setting that changes the couch behavior mentioned above

IMG_3394 (resized).JPGIMG_3394 (resized).JPG

2 weeks later
#2069 7 years ago

Looking to install some TSPP decals on the inside sides of the cabinet. Looks like the instructions say to remove the play field entirely for the installation. Just curious if anyone has installed the decals from pinballdecals.com and if you have recommendations on how to do the installation (i.e. remove playfield or not, wet with soapy water or not, etc.)

Appreciate any feedback.

Craig

1 week later
#2099 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

What code are you running? Older code didn't properly dropen the targets. Newest code is 5.0.
Should be 5 balls with I&S and couch mb running.

Are you sure? Thought the I&S multiball just added another 1 ball to the playfield. So if you have 3 running in CMB, wouldn't I&S just add another 1 ball for a total of 4?

#2101 7 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Anyone install the garage door Cliffy and notice fewer "makes" on the garage door shot? I might be crazy, but I think that ever since I installed the Cliffy on the garage door ramp, (which was not broken) the shot ends up going to the Cletus orbit a little more often.

I think my ramp shots became more reliable (as in more "makes") after installing the ramp cliffy.

#2102 7 years ago

Quick question...does anybody know where to get the I&S protector from? I don't think this one is done by Cliffy.

#2103 7 years ago
Quoted from Monk:

1. When I get the I&S shot, sometimes when the ball is release I shoot it right back to the hole before the drop targets reset. This puts the ball behind the drop targets forcing the VUK to shoot the ball into the back of the drop targets. I updated the roms yesterday to v5 hoping it would solve this issue, but it did not. Does this happen to anyone else and if so is there a fix? Does it have something to do with the drop targets not getting the signal to lower before the ball is ejected?

I'm running the 5.0 code and there is definitely an intermittent issue where the ball can get "stuck" behind the drop targets. Probably happens once in about 75 to 100 shots and you may be right about it occurring when the ball is shot back into the hole very quickly after an eject. I think the ball search eventually gets the ball out of the hole on my game.

#2111 7 years ago

Have some TSPP side decals to install and want to remove the playfield to install them. Does anybody have any tips, tricks or "gotchas" for removing the playfield on TSPP? Thanks in advance. Craig

#2127 7 years ago
Quoted from EricHadley:

Ya I agree the middle one

I like the middle one as well and would order! Nice work.

#2151 7 years ago
Quoted from thunderking50:

In the Club ! WhOOOOOOOOoooo !

Good looking game. Where did you find it?

#2162 7 years ago

TSPP was my first pin. Grossly over paid for it and have added tons to it so it's never leaving. Little video of side decals, interactive back box lighting, super premium CT LEDs, color DMD, speaker lights and Duff grills, and several other playfield Mods for those interested.

#2164 7 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

Love the conversation in the background!

Ha. Didn't even notice. That's what happens when you have too many kids!

2 weeks later
#2176 7 years ago

anybody know where you can purchase the pink doughnut shooter rod? Thanks in advance. -- Craig

2 weeks later
#2211 7 years ago
Quoted from EricHadley:

I put a LEDOCD in mine and it makes a huge difference, highly recommended.

You guys have a link to the ledOcd you recommend? Thanks!!

#2214 7 years ago

Very cool. I would love to see somebody do this same exact design in a translucent type plastic where it would could be dimly lit. Sparky, can you get on that please.

#2216 7 years ago
Quoted from emkay:

So maybe something like Laserrific's style with a design like this?

Yeah, those are pretty cool. Where did you find those?

#2218 7 years ago
Quoted from jalkelly:

Both are laseriffic. I have the 2nd one and love it. Just email joe and he might be able to make you one.

Emailed Joe. Thanks guys. -- Craig

2 months later
#2296 7 years ago

There is always talk and questions about the differences in playfield color/richness between the early and later run games. I just upgraded my TSPP to a mint condition example and it had the more washed out playfield. I'm glad I got the mint HUO game but definitely miss the colors in my previous game. I like the richer colors even if the red on the car isn't as true to the actual color of the car on the show. Curious to see what you guys think. "Washed out example" is on the right in both pics. The issue is that it's just not the car that is washed out...it's all the colors.

playfield-comparison (resized).pngplayfield-comparison (resized).png
playfield-comparison-2 (resized).pngplayfield-comparison-2 (resized).png

#2307 7 years ago
Quoted from PSU14:

Out of curiosity, what years/runs are these two pictures from?

I'll check exact dates when I get home but the darker colors are from 2003 and I think the lighter colors are from 2004. I feel like the colors of the lighter example came out even darker/enriched in the picture than they are in real life. There is a big difference in person. Look at the purple below the car.

#2308 7 years ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Pink is the same color as the car in the show, to me it's more authentic from that perspective only, but in general, it should not matter and I don't think one color commands more of a premium.

Nice meeting you and your wife at TPF, BTW. I pretty much agree. Ideal scenario would have been the pink car with the rest of the playfield using the richer colors. It does make a big difference when they are side by side...it's definitely not just the car

#2310 7 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

There is always talk and questions about the differences in playfield color/richness between the early and later run games. I just upgraded my TSPP to a mint condition example and it had the more washed out playfield. I'm glad I got the mint HUO game but definitely miss the colors in my previous game. I like the richer colors even if the red on the car isn't as true to the actual color of the car on the show. Curious to see what you guys think. "Washed out example" is on the right in both pics. The issue is that it's just not the car that is washed out...it's all the colors.

My original game is ip for sale here now from another pinsider: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-the-simpsons-pinball-party-21

#2327 7 years ago
Quoted from PSU14:

Cool. I didn't realize the color schemes weren't related to dates. Does the side art seem more faded in the lighter color run?

Yes, the side art is definitely lighter on my run Wirth the lighter playfield

#2363 7 years ago
Quoted from scottslash:

Yes, good catch! Where's the f'in TV?!? Pass.
Anyway... even with the easiest settings, it's gonna be hard for casuals to reach Mystery Spot. Have to start/end all 12(?) 2x scoring modes to light it. No "flailer" is ever gonna get there.
When I get to Mystery Spot, I announce: "Who wants to play backwards flippers?" and let whoever comes take over my ball.

I thought mystery spot was 10 otto shots?

3 weeks later
#2472 6 years ago
Quoted from Scott2dot0:

I've owned my TSPP for four days so far. It's a blast, but it seems like a lot of the action is over after I get my first couch multiball stacked with a couple modes and maybe D'oh Frenzy and an I&S multiball. Alien Invasion is next and is VERY challenging, but after that it seems to cool off. What comes next? Do I keep restarting modes and repeating couch multi? Shoot for Pretzel multi? I watched Bowen's tutorial but think I'm missing something.

Definitely want to go for Mystery Spot multiball (reverse flippers) which is started by hitting 10 Otto shots (while the Otto target is lit) and then hitting one final Otto shot while the yellow insert arrow is lit. Also, the tree house awards which are granted by hitting the right duff ramp multiple times and then hitting the left ramp with the upper right flipper. Think you also light the extra ball with several duff ramps shots. Then there is the Super Duper Mega Extreme Wizard Mode (or something like that). You can google to find out all the qualifications to start that. It's impossible for a player like myself is all I know.

#2475 6 years ago
Quoted from Scott2dot0:

hurt my little stump arms

LOL. I totally know what you mean.

2 weeks later
#2511 6 years ago
Quoted from sohchx:

It's currently set to 4 ball, but 5 ball it is. I've been on the fence about it anyway lol. Good catch on the lock nut!! Not sure how I never noticed it before. Thanks!!

Man, I wouldn't go straight to 5 ball before adjusting your posts and adding rubbers. That is going to make a huge difference.

You can also adjust things like how many right ramp shots it takes to light the extra ball. Change from 10 down to 6 or 8. And go back to 3 ball!

#2534 6 years ago
Quoted from Sparky:

Version 2 of the treehouse spotlight cover is now available on Mezelmods' site for $59. I figured out a way to mount it with a 3D print treetop. Looks much more like the one from the show. TV's are also still available if you want to pick up both at the same time
https://mezelmods.com/collections/simpsons-pinball-party-pinball-mods

Purchased! Thank you!

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 29.50
Playfield - Plastics
Pinball Haus
 
$ 54.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Lermods
 
$ 30.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 25.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
arcade-cabinets.com
 
6,899 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Sioux Falls, SD
From: $ 159.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
 
$ 16.00
$ 45.95
From: $ 9.99
$ 125.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
FlipMods
 
8,000
$ 20.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pinball Haus
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Haus
 
$ 18.95
9,899 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Livermore, CA
$ 15.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 
$ 165.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pixels Arcade Games
 
$ 44.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinBoss Mods
 
$ 59.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
 
8,200
Machine - For Sale
Springfield, MA
From: $ 99.99
Cabinet - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 45.00
From: $ 159.99
Lighting - Led
Comet Pinball
 
$ 19.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 12.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
 
$ 50.00
Playfield - Protection
Duke Pinball
 
$ 135.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
 
$ 30.00
Playfield - Other
YouBentMyWookie
 

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider cserold.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-owners-club-members-only?tu=cserold and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.