It was me who snagged it! Looking forward to reading all these pages and catching up. I used to play the hell out of this in my college days, looking forward to the reunion. Big ups to mrawesome44 for being a good dude and recruiting the whole family to help load.

Edit: what are the factory post placements for the game? I'm a shit player but I'm getting some stupid long ball times.

No! Sell it to me at a great loss so I can do it.

I've had my TSPP about 2 weeks and finally beat the default GC score last night. 52,586,750. Need to read that bowen guide and figure out how to get into some of these modes!

If I have GC and the 4th high score can I clear out just scores 1, 2, and 3 and have my 3rd place score as 2nd? Just set them to less than my 3rd score or will that not work?

I've got some pretty bad ghosting in a few of the lower playfield insert LEDs. Is there a go-to fix or do I need to invest in some non-ghosting LEDs for the inserts that are having the issue?

Open the garage door, get it to the upper playfield and lock the ball on the couch 3 tines for multiball. Try to stack with itchy and scratchy multiball. Run the modes that happen when you get it behind the TV. There's a good players guide out for it if you do some google.

My personal best tonight! Everything set to factory on the playfield and software so easy first multiballs, then lighting the couch lock on each ball and all targets must be dropped on itchy or they reset. I had 2 stacked multiballs which I'd never done before. I keep losing all the other balls going for the super jackpot on the couch but I'm not sure if I should be playing it more as a side bet and focus on keeping the main playfield alive.

20170920_212237 (resized).jpg

What kind of scores do you get now? I've only had it a few weeks and I haven't gotten to alien invasion yet, but tonight I was one mode away (70 mil, my pr). It was a long ass game.

Wooooo how long was that game?

Can you rotate the flipper freely (is it just loose inside the link)?

That's a weird issue. I guess I'd start with verifying coil voltage, maybe re flowing the coil and switch solder. Keep us updated!

If you moved the coil and the problem existed on the right side it sounds like your coil itself is bad. It's that what you're saying? Possibly one of the tiny copper wires got a bad nick in it which you may be able to see and repair if it happened where the single strand goes to the lug. If this is the case your coil voltage should be off.

That flame polishing job looks awesome. Bet that took some grapes.

Benetnath: did you compare voltages on your strong and weak side with and without EOS activation? You can start tracing it and see if you're losing it in line somewhere or something if it's not a problem with the boards or anything post coil.

I'm not sure if these flippers switches are eos open or closed but make sure to get the measurement at the eos if that is where your flipper is failing (if I recall correctly)

The only thing that I think makes it not an EOS issue but a voltage issue is that he can push the flipper back down with his finger, or by having the ball hit it. That's not normal behavior even when the EOS is functioning properly, so it would have to be power related, right?

Fix your eos switches goofball

Some light reading on eos switches in modern games

http://docs.missionpinball.org/en/latest/mechs/flippers/eos_switches.html

The main idea is here from forum user homepin in another thread:

The EOS switch in modern machines is really only there in case a super fast ball slams into the flipper while it is being held in the up position.
1. press flipper button and main pull coil activates, pulling the plunger swiftly to the upwards position.
2. the MCU starts a timer counting while at the same time the MCU "looks" for a closure of the EOS switch.
3. one of two things now happens here:
A. the MCU sees that the EOS switch has closed - or
B. the timer times out and the MCU "assumes" the plunger has now made it to "flipper up" position
4. the MCU turns ON the hold coil and then turns OFF the pull coil holding the plunger safely in the up position.
The problem now is if a fast ball slams into the flipper the MCU has no way to tell if this event has happened so the flipper will very likely flop to the down position as the hold coil won't have the power to resist EVEN IF you are holding the flipper button ON.
If the EOS switch is intact and working correctly, the MCU would "see" the EOS switch go open and say to itself: "wait a second - the flipper is held in the up position - that's not right" and so the MCU will pulse the power coil again to make sure the flipper remains in the up position.

---------

I read conflicting info on how whitestar uses eos switches, but if they are programmed to cut pull power after a time limit or eos is closed, whichever comes first this could be your problem.

Well I've never hoped it was a board problem before but it might be it gets resolved when you switch out your parts. Seems like as long as your testing methods were sound it couldn't be a continuity issue.

Do the same with the dmd.

What happens on the display when the flippers stop working? Does it act like the ball has drained before it actually drains?

Yeah I just did that fix too. Now I need to figure it which of the many fixes my DE Jurassic park needs and my game room will be nearly silent!

Well the LEDs the previous owner of mine put in ghost and flicker very badly so there's that. Mostly the lower half of the playfield. Ordering and installing comets is on my to do list.

I think there is a setting to carry over ball locks in the menu have you tried messing with that?

Award lock mystery award? Can you recreate the issue with the glass off?

Should I get an led ocd gizmo ($50) or the full led ocd ($130) to fix my tspp led ghosting? Are the extra features worth the money?

Oh damn I guess I got some bad Intel. Damn 130 is a lot of cash when I could probably fix it with a handful of comets.

I'd pull the dmd out and lay it on the glass and try again to see if something shorted out inside the backbox as a first step.

Flipper rebuild kit?

New g.c. tonight, 151 mil! Got alien invasion for the first time (not finished), mystery spot and secret stash all in one game. Almost all my points came on ball 3, too. Previous best was around 90 mil.

Replace the hell out of that cap and clean the board up for sure.

Get comet non ghosting would be my recommendation. My p.o. got leds from another source and I have real bad ghosting issues. I have read comets are the best bet with tspp.

I think with the setting it only carries locks on 1p games I could be mistaken.

Are your outlane posts in the factory configuration? I find that to be a pretty friendly setup but they can be moved to make the game easier or harder. The manual has diagrams.

I wonder if move have non standard sized rings or something cuz it's the friendliest outlanes on any of my games.

If any of you guys have custom titan setups on your tspp post me some pics! Getting ready to order some rubber and thinking about doing some stuff with colors.

This is the base kit I was going to order with a few changes. I was hoping to see a few different options around itchy, Bart and the upper pf. Thinking about purple around the ramp and Bart to match the pf, green for the upper pf and I'm not sure about itchy yet.

I just ordered a playfield protector for my tspp. You guys have any pro tips for installation? Was it a PITA? I've had the upper playfield out before but this should be a little more extensive.

I'd guess the switch that is in the VUK is not working

Wow nice gc. I don't think I could get that much on 5 ball.

Looks awesome!

Disconnect the wires from the connector under the playfield. Do this for anything you need to remove and mark the connectors to avoid confusion during reassembly.

Do the potentiometer mod fo bring down the amped signal. Helps a ton with the hum.

My tspp ghosts really badly. I need that OCD board at some point.

Check all your stitches in test mode with a ball, not your finger and make sure they're registering. You should definitely be offered pickled eggs.

Yeah, test this switch:

2018-09-23 10.18.25.jpg

Using the switch test mode will also tell you if it or any other switches are stuck on. It's pretty intuitive and a great troubleshooting tool. Reference the manual if you need to it's really easy.

Probably a loose diode or wire. I promise it won't last, get a soldering iron and take care of it! This is a good first "troubleshooting" project. You'll have to remove some stuff but it should be pretty easy. Don't be intimidated! Do it!

Lol "this game is too hard to do what I want to do"
"Bullshit, make it harder"

The resistor / potentiometer mod greatly reduces the hum and makes it much nicer. A must do IMO

Pinsound is like $400

That's it! Do iiiit! I pm'd the guy about a year ago and he sold me a kit. If he doesn't do it anymore he shows you how to make it in the thread IIRC .

Bro is measuring from the glass

What are those things exactly? Are they a permanent fixture or something you put in place when raising / lowering the PF? The description isn't very clear.

First thing to do is actually look at the mech and make sure everything is tight, the coil stop is not broken, and it is properly aligned. Changing out the coil sleeve and cleaning the plunger would be the next thing to do if the above did not help.

Wow nice!! I can't ever imagine getting that far. So many things have to line up!

Remove the switch row / column connectors. Short those switches with a set of test clips. If they don't activate you have an IC to replace (or cold solder on the Male pins). If they work appropriately it's something between the connectors and playfield.

With the power of unplug the connectors, I think it's 5 and 7. Then go to the switch test (IIRC you can get there with these connectors disconnected as the menu buttons are dedicated). With your test lead connect the Male column pin to the Male row pin and it will show up in the switch test. Compare with known working switches to make sure you're doing it right.

I'd get the color DMD, it looks great. The install is easy if you know how to use a screwdriver and follow printed directions. If you're not comfortable doing it having him install it is certainly an option.

I'd say adding a shaker to a game that doesnt have code integration is a miss. Just having it shake when it hits the pops is kind of weak in my opinion. But it's your game! Go hog wild and do whatever makes you happy. Welcome to the club!

Somewhere in the depths of this thread the is a photo of a TSPP in the same pink as the doughnut

Where are your outlane posts set? You should be able to top 30M if you can combine couch and itchy and scratchy multiballs and get a few jackpots.

You likely have a trough switch problem. Go into the diags menu and look at the ball trough clear function. Match up your switches to where the balls are and go from there. Probably a misaligned jam opto or loose wire on the shooter lane or something.

202 is my best. Still nowhere close to the wizard mode.

I was the same, stuck forever around 30M thinking I would never beat the factory GC of 50. You'll start stacking multiball and modes and learning how to use the timer for big points before too long. The bowen tutorial is very helpful. One of the big things is when the timer gets low start going for otto to renew it.

The I&S hole and shooter lane are the big ones I'd consider.

The outlane position is in the thread somewhere, and it appears in the manual if you have yours.

I bet you have a switch problem somewhere, go to switch test and see if anything pops up. I bet the playfield is being validated and it launches because of that.