The game was first built in 2003, and had many runs throughout the years (along with LOTR). By 2008 Stern has changed from Whitestar to SAM, so they didn’t have a lot of Whitestar boards to keep making big runs of older games...not to mention demand had dwindled anyway as used TSPP & LOTR were really common. Some distribs still wanted some new inventory to sell to customers, so small runs were still being built in 2008 if distribs wanted them.

Nope. They could afford 3 voice actors so they chose the ones who do the most voices each. Julie Kavner only does Marge, Patty & Selma. Dan C., Hank Azaria & Nancy Cartright do tons.

Ugh, why did you Smurf-bomb it? Take all those blue lights out. Looks terrible. You already got too carried away!!!

White lights. People who match light color to playfield color don’t understand the concept of
how color and light works.

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Maybe going through a moment of crazy, but thinking of possibly selling my TSPP in order to mix things up a bit. Out of space & might need the room for another game purchase. It will always be one of my favorite games, but I’ve had it for at least a decade, played it a billion times & don’t really play it much any more. I tend to gravitate toward quicker, less deep games these days...plus, I’ve still got LOTR if I need some depth. On the other hand, it’s prob the nicest TSPP I’ve ever seen, doesn’t have the blotch on Homer’s head, and the translite is autographed by a few cast members....although I could keep the translite and replace it with a stock one.

Talk me off the ledge...or push me over it. Lol.

That’s sorta what I keep thinking. Whenever I think I might have to choose a game to sell, in my mind I think it’ll be TOM. But then I play my TOM & I just get sucked into the classic B&W feel. As much as I love TSPP, sometimes I’m like “well, maybe I’m finally over that Whitestar feeling”. I’m buying 2 games from a friend, and I only have room for 1 lol. I *could* bring one to work to put in my office...but I feel like just letting something go is the more mature thing to do....but if not TSPP, what?

Nah, it’s too good. 90’s games with ultra unique mechs and design are keepers, and Dr. Who is definitely one of those. Nothing is like the Time Expander. It’s awesome.

I will never sell FG. Ever. Even if I get out of pinball, FG stays.

I love Dr. Who, love the music...keeping that.

Was going to sell Iron Man, but after Endgame, I couldn’t lol. It’s one of my favorite Marvel characters and favorite Marvel pin.

So far I’ve sold Hobbit, Getaway & Congo to thin my collection. More background - I’m having a baby next month, so part of the purge was to make baby room. Also, the reality of having a kid is that I’m not gonna be playing much anyway. Down the road, I can see whittling down to something like 10 pins - and in that scenario, not sure if TSPP would make that cut. So, since I don’t play it much now anyway, will def not be playing it when baby comes....maybe that’s the one to go.

Yikes ...so much trash on the playfield AND smear mode on the ColorDMD. My heart aches.

The game already comes with a ton of toys on it that are functional to the gameplay. Why does it need mass amounts of clutter? It detracts and it’s gaudy.

Sick burn.

Did you update it with TSPP ColorDMD code? They ship “generic”. It won’t work for any specific game unless that games ColorDMD code is installed.

Yeah, I just had a killer game on my TSPP with Couch MB stacked with I&S, D’oh, some modes - it was crazy....put me back in the “nah, can’t sell this one” mode lol

Lol sorry but when push comes to shove, I’ll take classic 90’s B/W Lawlor games over anything newer...plus, my NGG is super mint, HUO, barely any plays on it when I bought it. It has one of my favorite sound packages ever - the music is incredible. Plus, I bought it from Marty Ingels, the voice of Pac-Man!

Yes, it should swish every time. So - what’s probably happening is your switch is fine, but when the ball passes by it, it’s not pushing it enough to hit the button. When you do the switch test, try it with the ball instead of your finger. Then - you can adjust the metal part accordingly so it presses the switch button from the ball passing by.

Did any of the battery goo get in the battery holder or CPU? If so, a 50/50 solution of white vinegar/water will get rid of it. Consider getting the SVRAM mod so you never have to worry about batteries again. It really easy to install on Stern Whitestar boards.

For most location players, couch multiball is impossible. So - if 2 are already up there, it’s more likely a location player might get to enjoy it. It’s sorta like how BK2K saves the RANSOM letters for the next player.

They should be fine in home use, but one of the parts vendors (I forget who) used to sell protective mylar pre-cut to place over the buttons.

Oh yeah, those are the ones I’ve got.

Make sure the flipper coil plunger & sleeve are clean...maybe get a new sleeve or rebuild if you have to.

The green lock targets on the upper playfield.

Remove it.

Yeah, they are problematic. If you have a game like TSPP that uses them...just order a few to have around as spares.

Just use the same 2-LED clear domed cool whites that Stern uses on their games. They distribute light very well. It’s not as spotty as my pics look. However, use warm whites under the orange ramps so they look nice. Cools make them look goofy. I did use one frosted dome under the orange ramp to the left of Homer’s head. It’s in that perfect eyeliner spot that will annoy you with a clear dome LED...so, frosted there. The rest are covered by plastics well enough.

For inserts, don’t color match!!! Use cool whites under green, blue & white. Warm white under red, yellow and orange...and the middle family character inserts. This will bring out the natural color of the inserts beautifully. Use pink under the pink/purple inserts like Bart modes. I used the premium non ghosting flat top dome style, but painted the top white to diffuse the LEDs. I preferred this over frosted. Frosted changes the color temp slightly. White paint pen on top of the flat dome doesn’t.
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Ignore this. Don’t color match. The color of the inserts are their own color and look great with proper warm or cool. Only pink/purple benefit from colored LED.

Don’t use frosted in GI unless it’s directly in your eyeline.

Don’t use orange under the ramps. Use warm white - they’ll make the orange of the ramp really orange, but won’t orange bomb the playfield...you’ll get the benefit of an orange ramp and white GI.

LOL sorry to be so blunt, but it came right after my writeup and I was like "c'mon" ...

But seriously, I've seen LEDs from the moment people started using them in pinball, and it's been a bumpy ride of horrible light spread & color bombing...and when I finally realized it could be done right, I became an LED convert...many local hobbyists have seen my LED jobs in person and love them, even if they were LED haters.

I reject your confidence that colors look better in inserts as a blanket way to do it...perhaps some games it may look better...but inserts are like gems - they have a really lovely natural color that incandescents do not bring out, but a correctly placed warm or cool white LED will make look brilliant. For instant on this game...cool white on the blue I&S inserts result in a beautiful sky blue...but if you use blue, you get a harsher more artificial "LED" blue.

My method results in a brilliantly colored game from color temperature, not color blasting.

So, even incandescents will result in a hot spot, that's just the nature of the distance from the light to the plastic. When LEDs started, hot spots were bad because the LED only pointed directly up. You had a hot spot and no spread - resulting in games actually being darker! The modern 2-LED with domes that Stern uses have a wonderful light spread...so yes, you'll get a traditional hot spot, but also great light spread. A frosted bulb might mellow the spot, but also it will reduce spread...I also don't like the color temperature that frosted domes give off...it just makes the game seem more artificial looking and less true and vibrant.

Tron has pinkish inserts. They’re not the standard red color.

Of course it’s all subjective. However, I see so many LED people suggesting color matching as the only way to go, so lots of people do it. I personally feel if people do that as a “rule”, that it makes games look harsh. It’s worth exploring using the varying color temperature of warm white and cool white to see how it brings out the natural colors. For example the blue inserts in my Addams looked shitty with white, so in that case I went with blue LED. Family Guy has a lot of clear or yellow inserts that look better color coded, so I used red on jackpots, green on Seamus, orange on Extra Ball, red on Death. I used a color changer on Skill Shot.

Anyway - you do you, it’s all good - I just wanna put it out there that color matching isn’t a necessity and neither are frosted bulbs. Colors sparkle & pop with my method.

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Just start them. And they all stack so - you could theoretically start one, relight with right orbit, get back up to TV to start another, repeat until you get to Alien Invasion!

If I remember correctly, blinking just means that’s the character up for collection. You need to get it solid to count as collected. You have to get all the jackpots, including the TV - THEN the couch to get the character. Do it again to get the next one. It’s very tough, I don’t think I’ve gotten more than 2.

You got one of the better playfield runs. There’s no splotch on Homer’s head!

Is your Homer head working 100%. Part of the fun of Doh Frenzy is that he moves & lights up with each Doh! Removing it would be weird.

That wouldn’t be as funny & wouldn’t be a Frenzy. Lots of games have Switch Frenzy modes. Addams has Mamushka (every switch is a “Hey!”), Family Guy has Chicken Fight (every switch is a punch).

DOTS XL forever. It’s the best representation of the art. So-called “Hi Rez” smears the art into something grotesque.

It’s when you collect the “Si” of “Simpsons”