Joe Balcer asked if I could find him a set of NOS or repro plastics. I don't even know if they made a repro set.
Anyone able to hook Joe up?
He also said he's got some "cool shit" to trade. I'd have to find out exactly what said "cool shit" is.
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Quoted from moonduckie78:I've seen the Russians sell them on eBay from time to time.
Yup. Joe knows about those. He didn't think he wanted to go there.
If anyone has these and can vouch for them, let me know.
Joe Balcer sent me his personal game to perform an ultimate shop job.
Problem is Joe started tearing the game down before it got to me.
Anyone have a link to shop out pics?
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Thanks! I’m going to need them.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Here’s where the game started. Joe sent me these pics.
4BCE3239-1408-475F-854F-9AD24899E587 (resized).jpeg5646BA80-3C46-46DA-A79F-6B18CE78F6EC (resized).jpeg83B05D90-1754-4A95-9A19-FD5838EBAD51 (resized).jpegB8F190C6-CCC8-429A-BEE4-F97ACA327324 (resized).jpegD0EC488F-8358-4113-97EF-508B3DE4C9E4 (resized).jpegQuoted from allsportdvd:How does a pinball designer let a game get into that state? You would they would know a bit about maintenance
This wasn’t Joe’s game. He bought it a while back from an op.
Quoted from allsportdvd:I still need help with installing my Bart captive ball piece
The post at the rear is part number 254-5000-15 as per the manual but it’s way too tall for the space at the rear pictured below
The manual has a terrible picture. I need to see this installed without Bart in there and I’ve looked through so many shopout pics it’s not funny
Number 8 as per the manual pic
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The spacer is 1 7/8" tall.
9322AB95-4DF2-4788-AF92-462CB668057A_1_105_c (resized).jpegQuoted from El_Barto:Put a tack weld or two on the spot that should be flat, then use a dremel to shape it so it fits properly. The repair should last longer than the original since the weld filler (mig wire or welding rod) is harder than most non-hardened steels.
Thought of that.
Decided to go this route instead.
Joe is checking with those at Stern to see if they still have some info on this piece.
C2A5140C-D887-48F2-B280-55C7558667BE_1_105_c (resized).jpegQuoted from Bryan_Kelly:Here’s where the game started. Joe sent me these pics.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Joe’s game is coming along nicely.
25755097-4A41-4BF9-B300-F8FDF06AFBB1 (resized).jpeg2F0E5131-758D-44FB-B366-BD9231B5E8A5 (resized).jpegEA0D38DA-F926-426B-8B73-C7FBFF11EE91 (resized).jpegF884A664-FFE7-446F-BBD6-DE65D3030CA5 (resized).jpeg2F004D61-F666-418E-AC84-B913F8FF4B49 (resized).jpeg911C12FF-4073-4C8A-9591-24D73AE2E1E3 (resized).jpegQuoted from Only_Pinball:The original Simpsons pin[quoted image]
I wondered where Joe got those.
Quoted from beltking:I added the board that comet sells when you do led’s. Huge difference. Worth it.
I install the OCD board in all my games.
Quoted from Pizzaman13:I went with non-ghosting LEDs. Board makes a big enough difference over that? Easy to install the board?
I’m also considering getting a color display for TSPP. Any experience with that? LCD vs LED…ease of installation, etc.
Install is simple.
LED's are an instant on, instant off. For many, it's a little too harsh. With the board, the LED's act more like incandescents. It's a gradual on, gradual off. Some call it smoothing.
You really need to see one in action to appreciate it.
B7DB4D2C-EAEF-4EF0-93B0-9BDAA561A557_1_105_c (resized).jpegQuoted from ccbiggsoo7:where do you get this board bryan?
Quoted from allsportdvd:I’m so close to finishing my restoration but for some reason no pics of the underside of the upper playfield
Does anyone have any pics of the bottom? Particularly near the ball exit to the monorail and the lights hook up there
This is the only one I've got handy.
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