(Topic ID: 50801)

TSPP Owners Club..... Members Only!!!


By kwiKimart

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by bicyclenut
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There are 4733 posts in this topic. You are on page 89 of 95.
#4401 4 months ago

Let me add I have an older Sega/de dmd board. Maybe it needs the rom update to launch?

#4402 4 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

That’s sorta what I keep thinking. Whenever I think I might have to choose a game to sell, in my mind I think it’ll be TOM. But then I play my TOM & I just get sucked into the classic B&W feel. As much as I love TSPP, sometimes I’m like “well, maybe I’m finally over that Whitestar feeling”. I’m buying 2 games from a friend, and I only have room for 1 lol. I *could* bring one to work to put in my office...but I feel like just letting something go is the more mature thing to do....but if not TSPP, what?

You know you've got a nice collection when they all feel like keepers to you. You have great games, even a couple that may seem likely to get cut by some, may be favorites to you. I should really sell 2-3 of mine, and I don't know what I could part with! Definitely not TSPP, for me.

#4403 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

You know you've got a nice collection when they all feel like keepers to you. You have great games, even a couple that may seem likely to get cut by some, may be favorites to you. I should really sell 2-3 of mine, and I don't know what I could part with! Definitely not TSPP, for me.

Yeah, I just had a killer game on my TSPP with Couch MB stacked with I&S, D’oh, some modes - it was crazy....put me back in the “nah, can’t sell this one” mode lol

#4404 4 months ago
Quoted from BigSilverPin:

Installing a colordmd board. Got everything hooked up, got power to the colordmd screen, but wont play video from thegame, menus only. Also having a hard time taking a flash. Everything look right in my setup? Thanks in advance!

Looking at your picture, you don't have 5V power reconnected to the Display Controller Board.

#4405 4 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Looking at your picture, you don't have 5V power reconnected to the Display Controller Board.

Thank you. Randy from colordmd just emailed me the same. So just run the 5v back up to the power supply board and leave dmd power cable tied off safely?

Thanks!!

#4406 4 months ago

Yes. Ensure the old cable is secure away from any connectors.

#4407 4 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

That’s sorta what I keep thinking. Whenever I think I might have to choose a game to sell, in my mind I think it’ll be TOM. But then I play my TOM & I just get sucked into the classic B&W feel. As much as I love TSPP, sometimes I’m like “well, maybe I’m finally over that Whitestar feeling”. I’m buying 2 games from a friend, and I only have room for 1 lol. I *could* bring one to work to put in my office...but I feel like just letting something go is the more mature thing to do....but if not TSPP, what?

Late reply on this one... but in my opinion, anyone thinking of getting rid of TSPP and keeping NGG, needs to have their head examined.

#4408 4 months ago

Thanks all! Colordmd is in and installed! Also had A++ email support from Randy from colordmd

#4409 4 months ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Late reply on this one... but in my opinion, anyone thinking of getting rid of TSPP and keeping NGG, needs to have their head examined.

Lol sorry but when push comes to shove, I’ll take classic 90’s B/W Lawlor games over anything newer...plus, my NGG is super mint, HUO, barely any plays on it when I bought it. It has one of my favorite sound packages ever - the music is incredible. Plus, I bought it from Marty Ingels, the voice of Pac-Man!

#4410 4 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Lol sorry but when push comes to shove, I’ll take classic 90’s B/W Lawlor games over anything newer...plus, my NGG is super mint, HUO, barely any plays on it when I bought it. It has one of my favorite sound packages ever - the music is incredible. Plus, I bought it from Marty Ingels, the voice of Pac-Man!

NGG is an excellent Pat L. pin from the mid-late 90s, I feel. I was always skeptical of it, because of the theme and 2 gopher bash targets that pop up. Too silly or gimmicky for me, so I thought. Now that I've given it a fair chance, I realize this is yet another excellent, creative game from Pat L. I'm particular to his games, admittedly, but I would love to have a NGG. I would be hard pressed to ever give up a game like TSPP for one, but if I find a really pristine one for a fair price...Bud and Buzz are coming home! I just spent about 2 hours playing Wonka at a local arcade, and some shots (the rear ramp side-shot) feel similar to NGG, which I played the next day. I can understand the appeal now!

#4411 4 months ago

My TSPP is for sale/trade if anyone is near Maryland and looking for one. One owner, low plays, modded and absolutely pristine inside and out.

#4412 4 months ago
Quoted from BigSilverPin:

New member of TSPP club here! I picked up a HUO machine locally and it's my first pin!! Have had a ton of fun the past 3 days, but now have two mechanical issues with the game that I was hoping the forum could help me with. I understand these might be common issues, so even a link to the remedies would be appreciated!
The garage door stopped working/opening last night. When I hit the garage door with a ball, it doesn't open at all. Just prior to it not working, I adjusted the coil power setting in the diag menu (set it from normal to high). The upper right ejecter on coil spot #19 (behind Bart on the skateboard, kicks ball to outer lane) has alot of trouble when it's in multiball mode. The ejecter works fine on a single ball, but in multi ball when multiple balls stack up in that lane on the ejecter, the ejecter has alot of problems kicking the balls up/out and the game stalls out for 2-5 mins as it works to kick over the balls. I read you can adjust the coil strength in the menu, so I set it to high. I didn't have a chance to see if this fixed the ejecter, as now the garage door doesn't open at all, as many times as you hit it. The garage door and the upper right ejecter (coil #19) both seem like they need service or replacement. I changed the coil strength setting back to "normal" right away and that didn't remedy the garage door problem. I ordered the latest ROM software (if have 4.0, 5.0 is latest) and it says that it updates some coil strengths. I see there is an upgraded garage door coil, but was wondering if I could maybe clean or adjust the coil so it works again. Wondering the same about coil#19. Thank you in advance guys!![quoted image]

check little plug that goes to it under the playfield, they tend to pop out sometimes

#4413 4 months ago

Hey everyone, I was hoping someone could clear up an issue I'm having. Does this switch coming out of the upper playfield always make the monorail swishing noise when the ball passes under it? I did a switch test and it show the switch is working, but it wont make the monorail noise anymore. Do I have to be in a certian mode for that?
Thank for any help
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#4414 4 months ago

This is a follow-up request for assistance on a post I made a week or so ago. I purchased a new VUK in an attempt to replace the current one, which never senses the ball to shoot it to the upper playfield. I thought I could just remove the existing VUK by removing it via two small screws, but I'm starting to think I'll need to remove the entire assembly via the much larger (I count 5) screws first. Is that how I would do it? Once I ultimately get the VUK out, then apparently I'll need to do some soldering. Thanks in advance - better safe than sorry, I figure.

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#4415 4 months ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Hey everyone, I was hoping someone could clear up an issue I'm having. Does this switch coming out of the upper playfield always make the monorail swishing noise when the ball passes under it? I did a switch test and it show the switch is working, but it wont make the monorail noise anymore. Do I have to be in a certian mode for that?
Thank for any help
[quoted image]

Yes, it should swish every time. So - what’s probably happening is your switch is fine, but when the ball passes by it, it’s not pushing it enough to hit the button. When you do the switch test, try it with the ball instead of your finger. Then - you can adjust the metal part accordingly so it presses the switch button from the ball passing by.

#4416 4 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Yes, it should swish every time. So - what’s probably happening is your switch is fine, but when the ball passes by it, it’s not pushing it enough to hit the button. When you do the switch test, try it with the ball instead of your finger. Then - you can adjust the metal part accordingly so it presses the switch button from the ball passing by.

Thanks for the help. Its the weirdest thing. I changed the batteries thus resetting the game and now it works every time. Shame on me for not checking the batteries when I first bought the game. Looking at the boards really close tonight I noticed a little bit of green on one of the batteries. Glad I caught it sooner than later.
Thanks again

#4417 4 months ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

Thanks for the help. Its the weirdest thing. I changed the batteries thus resetting the game and now it works every time. Shame on me for not checking the batteries when I first bought the game. Looking at the boards really close tonight I noticed a little bit of green on one of the batteries. Glad I caught it sooner than later.
Thanks again

Did any of the battery goo get in the battery holder or CPU? If so, a 50/50 solution of white vinegar/water will get rid of it. Consider getting the SVRAM mod so you never have to worry about batteries again. It really easy to install on Stern Whitestar boards.

#4418 4 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

Did any of the battery goo get in the battery holder or CPU? If so, a 50/50 solution of white vinegar/water will get rid of it. Consider getting the SVRAM mod so you never have to worry about batteries again. It really easy to install on Stern Whitestar boards.

None of it did, but great advice and I think I'm going to do just what you said. Thanks

#4419 4 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

I thought I could just remove the existing VUK by removing it via two small screws, but I'm starting to think I'll need to remove the entire assembly via the much larger (I count 5) screws first. Is that how I would do it? Once I ultimately get the VUK out, then apparently I'll need to do some soldering.

You should be able to just remove the 2 screws holding on the coil retaining bracket rather than the whole assembly. Part 5 on page page 87 of the manual. This will let you move the coil out of the way and get at the switch. I'd check out the switch closely before replacing. The activation arm may have just come loose from the switch body or it could be something else minor. If you do have to replace, make sure to transfer the diode over from the old to new switch in the right direction. Don't be afraid to take the whole assembly off though if it makes it easier to access/replace the switch. You can use some wire ties to hang it from the wiring harness or something else secure.

#4420 4 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

This is a follow-up request for assistance on a post I made a week or so ago. I purchased a new VUK in an attempt to replace the current one, which never senses the ball to shoot it to the upper playfield. I thought I could just remove the existing VUK by removing it via two small screws, but I'm starting to think I'll need to remove the entire assembly via the much larger (I count 5) screws first. Is that how I would do it? Once I ultimately get the VUK out, then apparently I'll need to do some soldering. Thanks in advance - better safe than sorry, I figure.[quoted image]

I had the same issue and I just needed to replace the Y-switch. You do have to solder the wires to the new one though, but its not bad.

#4421 4 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

You should be able to just remove the 2 screws holding on the coil retaining bracket rather than the whole assembly. Part 5 on page page 87 of the manual. This will let you move the coil out of the way and get at the switch. I'd check out the switch closely before replacing. The activation arm may have just come loose from the switch body or it could be something else minor. If you do have to replace, make sure to transfer the diode over from the old to new switch in the right direction. Don't be afraid to take the whole assembly off though if it makes it easier to access/replace the switch. You can use some wire ties to hang it from the wiring harness or something else secure.

Now that I look at it closer, you could probaly also just take the switch off it's bracket using a small nut driver to remove the (2) 8-32 screws.

#4422 4 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Now that I look at it closer, you could probaly also just take the switch off it's bracket using a small nut driver to remove the (2) 8-32 screws.

Thanks everyone - I did remove the 2 small screws you refer to, but from what I can tell there is no way to remove the sensor without taking the big assembly off via the 5 large screws. From what I can tell, the u-shaped sensor is too large to pull out / reinsert.

#4423 4 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

You should be able to just remove the 2 screws holding on the coil retaining bracket rather than the whole assembly. Part 5 on page page 87 of the manual. This will let you move the coil out of the way and get at the switch. I'd check out the switch closely before replacing. The activation arm may have just come loose from the switch body or it could be something else minor. If you do have to replace, make sure to transfer the diode over from the old to new switch in the right direction. Don't be afraid to take the whole assembly off though if it makes it easier to access/replace the switch. You can use some wire ties to hang it from the wiring harness or something else secure.

Ah thanks - you mean 2 of the large screws, versus the tiny ones? I'll look at my manual tonight.

#4424 4 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

Ah thanks - you mean 2 of the large screws, versus the tiny ones? I'll look at my manual tonight.

Yes. There is a bracket that holds the top of the coil in place. Take it off and you will be able to move the coil and plunger out of the way.

#4425 4 months ago
Quoted from bicyclenut:

None of it did, but great advice and I think I'm going to do just what you said. Thanks

don't be so sure, it leaks where you can't even imagine or see it sometimes. better clean it up with a 50/50 solution regardless.

#4426 4 months ago

what adapter did anybody with a topper use, and what plug. no extra plugs on the whitestar like the sams.

#4427 4 months ago
Quoted from luckymoey:

Yes. There is a bracket that holds the top of the coil in place. Take it off and you will be able to move the coil and plunger out of the way.

Thanks again for everyone who chimed in. I was able to remove the switch via the 2 small screws and I also had to remove 4 out of the 5 screws into the playfield so I could get enough wiggle room to pull the VUK switch out. Now the ball is being immediately detected upon entering the garage.

When I was playing a few games after the fix, I noticed on one of my games I got 2 balls on the couch, and the balls didn't come off the couch after the game was over. Might be another problem to look into...another day!

#4428 4 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

When I was playing a few games after the fix, I noticed on one of my games I got 2 balls on the couch, and the balls didn't come off the couch after the game was over. Might be another problem to look into...another day!

I think there is a setting in the menu, on default it holds locked balls on the couch between games.

#4429 4 months ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

what adapter did anybody with a topper use, and what plug. no extra plugs on the whitestar like the sams.

There is an auxiliary plug in the front of the game, right side, same as SAM

#4430 4 months ago

So I've been helping Sparky make mods for TSPP. The latest was the monorail for the return ramp. I've improved on this latest version the best I can, but it's still not up to par to either of our standards. That's not to say these are bad, but for the labor involved we both decided it's not pursuing. With that said, I have 4 sets left. I am closing these out at half price ($50), once these are gone they are gone. PM me if you're interested.

https://mezelmods.com/products/simpsons-pinball-party-monorail

monorail (resized).jpg Added 120 days ago:

2 left

#4431 4 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

When I was playing a few games after the fix, I noticed on one of my games I got 2 balls on the couch, and the balls didn't come off the couch after the game was over. Might be another problem to look into...another day!

By default, the couch keeps the balls between games - but not between powering the machine off and on. I experienced that firsthand last weekend.

#4432 4 months ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

By default, the couch keeps the balls between games - but not between powering the machine off and on. I experienced that firsthand last weekend.

Interesting. I wonder what the rationale is on wanting to keep the balls on the couch from a player's or operator's perspective. This makes sense now, as I just recently upgraded my version to 5.0, so that probably brought everything back to factory settings.

#4433 4 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

Interesting. I wonder what the rationale is on wanting to keep the balls on the couch from a player's or operator's perspective. This makes sense now, as I just recently upgraded my version to 5.0, so that probably brought everything back to factory settings.

Yeah, I found it weird as well -- Metallica doesn't do that with the physical ball lock....

What version did you upgrade from? I just joined the club, and have v4. I'm thinking I should probably find a v5 ROM (I think I need game and display), but not sure how hard it is to pop the old ROM chip off.

#4434 4 months ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

Yeah, I found it weird as well -- Metallica doesn't do that with the physical ball lock....
What version did you upgrade from? I just joined the club, and have v4. I'm thinking I should probably find a v5 ROM (I think I need game and display), but not sure how hard it is to pop the old ROM chip off.

I'm pretty sure it was 3.0. Initially it was a challenge, but what worked for me was using a small screwdriver, getting it under the chip and making small left / right movements with the blade until it started to come up, then I hit the other side of the chip with the same method. You'll have to replace 2 chips, 1 of them being a video chip behind the LCD screen. I also used this time to replace the AA batteries with an NVRAM. I'm still a beginner with a lot of this, but be sure to orient the replacement chips the correct way, lest you burn up your NVRAM like I did on the first attempt...

#4435 4 months ago
Quoted from opt_prime:

Interesting. I wonder what the rationale is on wanting to keep the balls on the couch from a player's or operator's perspective.

For most location players, couch multiball is impossible. So - if 2 are already up there, it’s more likely a location player might get to enjoy it. It’s sorta like how BK2K saves the RANSOM letters for the next player.

#4436 4 months ago

I feel lucky to have a pristine HUO game.
I've seen routed games with the artwork faded on the start button/flipper buttons - how do I protect from this?
Clear decals? Nuclear rails?
Or will it be find in my basement where basically I'm the only one playing it?

#4437 4 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

I feel lucky to have a pristine HUO game.
I've seen routed games with the artwork faded on the start button/flipper buttons - how do I protect from this?
Clear decals? Nuclear rails?
Or will it be find in my basement where basically I'm the only one playing it?

Have mine since 2003, no flipper button wear, no protection.

#4438 4 months ago
Quoted from dudah:

I feel lucky to have a pristine HUO game.
I've seen routed games with the artwork faded on the start button/flipper buttons - how do I protect from this?
Clear decals? Nuclear rails?
Or will it be find in my basement where basically I'm the only one playing it?

They should be fine in home use, but one of the parts vendors (I forget who) used to sell protective mylar pre-cut to place over the buttons.

#4439 4 months ago
Quoted from Rarehero:

parts vendors (I forget who) used to sell protective mylar pre-cut to place over the buttons.

Marco has them

Screen Shot 2019-09-24 at 3.30.12 PM (resized).png
#4440 4 months ago

as does Pinball Life....

buttonguard (resized).PNG
-3
#4441 4 months ago

I wear cheap white gloves from Amazon....as do all my guests....keeps fingerprints off the metal too...you'd be surprised how quickly they get dirty....buy em by the bag...

#4442 4 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:I wear cheap white gloves from Amazon....as do all my guests

#4443 4 months ago
Quoted from weaselfest:

as does Pinball Life....[quoted image]

Oh yeah, those are the ones I’ve got.

#4444 4 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

I wear cheap white gloves from Amazon....as do all my guests....keeps fingerprints off the metal too...you'd be surprised how quickly they get dirty....buy em by the bag...

invite the bangers over and hand out protection at the door, huh??

#4445 4 months ago

I use the ones from Pinball Life, they are cheap and the mylar offers plenty of protection. Normal HUO isn't going to wear the cab down for years, but the mylar will protect it. You do need to remove the flipper buttons before applying them, I found. Well worth the $3.

#4446 4 months ago
Quoted from monkfe:

I wear cheap white gloves from Amazon....as do all my guests....keeps fingerprints off the metal too...you'd be surprised how quickly they get dirty....buy em by the bag...

Imagine you don't allow your guests to do slide saves either

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/poll-what-is-a-slide-save-classed-as-in-pinball

#4447 4 months ago

The ones from Marco adhere better, offer better coverage, are ambidextrous and can be applied over the flipper buttons. I have tried both.

#4448 4 months ago

I got mine from Titan Pinball. They work well and are really easy to install (no need to remove flipper buttons).

#4449 4 months ago

Need some help I am still having an issue with coil #19 not being able to clear multiple balls when they get stacked up during multiball (the ejecter behind Daredevil bart and to the right of the bully targets/otto lane). Was wondering if it was a coil strength issue or possibly the angle of the plunger? The mechanism has trouble clearing the ball, especially when multiple balls get stuck in the lane/hole. It also seems like the second ball leans on the first in the hole, preventing the front one from ejecting. Any advice regarding the coil or plunger adjustment? The noise and plunger fire, but the ball doesn't always leave the hole.

Thank you in advance!!

#4450 4 months ago
Quoted from BigSilverPin:

Need some help I am still having an issue with coil #19 not being able to clear multiple balls when they get stacked up during multiball (the ejecter behind Daredevil bart and to the right of the bully targets/otto lane). Was wondering if it was a coil strength issue or possibly the angle of the plunger? The mechanism has trouble clearing the ball, especially when multiple balls get stuck in the lane/hole. It also seems like the second ball leans on the first in the hole, preventing the front one from ejecting. Any advice regarding the coil or plunger adjustment? The noise and plunger fire, but the ball doesn't always leave the hole.
Thank you in advance!!

search my posts, there is a fix for that coil. Basically, you want to put a 1/4 piece of plastic, wood or even a bottle cap behind the plunger in the coil to shorten the travel. this will provide more of a kick to get it out of there.

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