Quoted from Rarehero:

That’s sorta what I keep thinking. Whenever I think I might have to choose a game to sell, in my mind I think it’ll be TOM. But then I play my TOM & I just get sucked into the classic B&W feel. As much as I love TSPP, sometimes I’m like “well, maybe I’m finally over that Whitestar feeling”. I’m buying 2 games from a friend, and I only have room for 1 lol. I *could* bring one to work to put in my office...but I feel like just letting something go is the more mature thing to do....but if not TSPP, what?

Quoted from Pinkitten:

You know you've got a nice collection when they all feel like keepers to you. You have great games, even a couple that may seem likely to get cut by some, may be favorites to you. I should really sell 2-3 of mine, and I don't know what I could part with! Definitely not TSPP, for me.

Quoted from BigSilverPin:

Installing a colordmd board. Got everything hooked up, got power to the colordmd screen, but wont play video from thegame, menus only. Also having a hard time taking a flash. Everything look right in my setup? Thanks in advance!

Quoted from Rarehero:

That’s sorta what I keep thinking. Whenever I think I might have to choose a game to sell, in my mind I think it’ll be TOM. But then I play my TOM & I just get sucked into the classic B&W feel. As much as I love TSPP, sometimes I’m like “well, maybe I’m finally over that Whitestar feeling”. I’m buying 2 games from a friend, and I only have room for 1 lol. I *could* bring one to work to put in my office...but I feel like just letting something go is the more mature thing to do....but if not TSPP, what?

Quoted from Pinzap:

Late reply on this one... but in my opinion, anyone thinking of getting rid of TSPP and keeping NGG, needs to have their head examined.

Quoted from Rarehero:

Lol sorry but when push comes to shove, I’ll take classic 90’s B/W Lawlor games over anything newer...plus, my NGG is super mint, HUO, barely any plays on it when I bought it. It has one of my favorite sound packages ever - the music is incredible. Plus, I bought it from Marty Ingels, the voice of Pac-Man!

Quoted from BigSilverPin:

New member of TSPP club here! I picked up a HUO machine locally and it's my first pin!! Have had a ton of fun the past 3 days, but now have two mechanical issues with the game that I was hoping the forum could help me with. I understand these might be common issues, so even a link to the remedies would be appreciated!
The garage door stopped working/opening last night. When I hit the garage door with a ball, it doesn't open at all. Just prior to it not working, I adjusted the coil power setting in the diag menu (set it from normal to high). The upper right ejecter on coil spot #19 (behind Bart on the skateboard, kicks ball to outer lane) has alot of trouble when it's in multiball mode. The ejecter works fine on a single ball, but in multi ball when multiple balls stack up in that lane on the ejecter, the ejecter has alot of problems kicking the balls up/out and the game stalls out for 2-5 mins as it works to kick over the balls. I read you can adjust the coil strength in the menu, so I set it to high. I didn't have a chance to see if this fixed the ejecter, as now the garage door doesn't open at all, as many times as you hit it. The garage door and the upper right ejecter (coil #19) both seem like they need service or replacement. I changed the coil strength setting back to "normal" right away and that didn't remedy the garage door problem. I ordered the latest ROM software (if have 4.0, 5.0 is latest) and it says that it updates some coil strengths. I see there is an upgraded garage door coil, but was wondering if I could maybe clean or adjust the coil so it works again. Wondering the same about coil#19. Thank you in advance guys!![quoted image]

Quoted from bicyclenut:

Hey everyone, I was hoping someone could clear up an issue I'm having. Does this switch coming out of the upper playfield always make the monorail swishing noise when the ball passes under it? I did a switch test and it show the switch is working, but it wont make the monorail noise anymore. Do I have to be in a certian mode for that?
Thank for any help
[quoted image]

Quoted from Rarehero:

Yes, it should swish every time. So - what’s probably happening is your switch is fine, but when the ball passes by it, it’s not pushing it enough to hit the button. When you do the switch test, try it with the ball instead of your finger. Then - you can adjust the metal part accordingly so it presses the switch button from the ball passing by.

Quoted from bicyclenut:

Thanks for the help. Its the weirdest thing. I changed the batteries thus resetting the game and now it works every time. Shame on me for not checking the batteries when I first bought the game. Looking at the boards really close tonight I noticed a little bit of green on one of the batteries. Glad I caught it sooner than later.
Thanks again

Quoted from Rarehero:

Did any of the battery goo get in the battery holder or CPU? If so, a 50/50 solution of white vinegar/water will get rid of it. Consider getting the SVRAM mod so you never have to worry about batteries again. It really easy to install on Stern Whitestar boards.

Quoted from opt_prime:

I thought I could just remove the existing VUK by removing it via two small screws, but I'm starting to think I'll need to remove the entire assembly via the much larger (I count 5) screws first. Is that how I would do it? Once I ultimately get the VUK out, then apparently I'll need to do some soldering.

Quoted from opt_prime:

This is a follow-up request for assistance on a post I made a week or so ago. I purchased a new VUK in an attempt to replace the current one, which never senses the ball to shoot it to the upper playfield. I thought I could just remove the existing VUK by removing it via two small screws, but I'm starting to think I'll need to remove the entire assembly via the much larger (I count 5) screws first. Is that how I would do it? Once I ultimately get the VUK out, then apparently I'll need to do some soldering. Thanks in advance - better safe than sorry, I figure.[quoted image]

Quoted from luckymoey:

You should be able to just remove the 2 screws holding on the coil retaining bracket rather than the whole assembly. Part 5 on page page 87 of the manual. This will let you move the coil out of the way and get at the switch. I'd check out the switch closely before replacing. The activation arm may have just come loose from the switch body or it could be something else minor. If you do have to replace, make sure to transfer the diode over from the old to new switch in the right direction. Don't be afraid to take the whole assembly off though if it makes it easier to access/replace the switch. You can use some wire ties to hang it from the wiring harness or something else secure.

Quoted from luckymoey:

Now that I look at it closer, you could probaly also just take the switch off it's bracket using a small nut driver to remove the (2) 8-32 screws.

Quoted from luckymoey:

You should be able to just remove the 2 screws holding on the coil retaining bracket rather than the whole assembly. Part 5 on page page 87 of the manual. This will let you move the coil out of the way and get at the switch. I'd check out the switch closely before replacing. The activation arm may have just come loose from the switch body or it could be something else minor. If you do have to replace, make sure to transfer the diode over from the old to new switch in the right direction. Don't be afraid to take the whole assembly off though if it makes it easier to access/replace the switch. You can use some wire ties to hang it from the wiring harness or something else secure.

Quoted from opt_prime:

Ah thanks - you mean 2 of the large screws, versus the tiny ones? I'll look at my manual tonight.

Quoted from bicyclenut:

None of it did, but great advice and I think I'm going to do just what you said. Thanks

Quoted from luckymoey:

Yes. There is a bracket that holds the top of the coil in place. Take it off and you will be able to move the coil and plunger out of the way.

Quoted from opt_prime:

When I was playing a few games after the fix, I noticed on one of my games I got 2 balls on the couch, and the balls didn't come off the couch after the game was over. Might be another problem to look into...another day!

Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

what adapter did anybody with a topper use, and what plug. no extra plugs on the whitestar like the sams.

Quoted from opt_prime:

When I was playing a few games after the fix, I noticed on one of my games I got 2 balls on the couch, and the balls didn't come off the couch after the game was over. Might be another problem to look into...another day!

Quoted from Fezmid:

By default, the couch keeps the balls between games - but not between powering the machine off and on. I experienced that firsthand last weekend.

Quoted from opt_prime:

Interesting. I wonder what the rationale is on wanting to keep the balls on the couch from a player's or operator's perspective. This makes sense now, as I just recently upgraded my version to 5.0, so that probably brought everything back to factory settings.

Quoted from Fezmid:

Yeah, I found it weird as well -- Metallica doesn't do that with the physical ball lock....
What version did you upgrade from? I just joined the club, and have v4. I'm thinking I should probably find a v5 ROM (I think I need game and display), but not sure how hard it is to pop the old ROM chip off.

Quoted from opt_prime:

Interesting. I wonder what the rationale is on wanting to keep the balls on the couch from a player's or operator's perspective.

Quoted from dudah:

I feel lucky to have a pristine HUO game.
I've seen routed games with the artwork faded on the start button/flipper buttons - how do I protect from this?
Clear decals? Nuclear rails?
Or will it be find in my basement where basically I'm the only one playing it?

Quoted from dudah:

I feel lucky to have a pristine HUO game.
I've seen routed games with the artwork faded on the start button/flipper buttons - how do I protect from this?
Clear decals? Nuclear rails?
Or will it be find in my basement where basically I'm the only one playing it?

Quoted from Rarehero:

parts vendors (I forget who) used to sell protective mylar pre-cut to place over the buttons.

Quoted from monkfe:I wear cheap white gloves from Amazon....as do all my guests

Quoted from weaselfest:

as does Pinball Life....[quoted image]

Quoted from monkfe:

I wear cheap white gloves from Amazon....as do all my guests....keeps fingerprints off the metal too...you'd be surprised how quickly they get dirty....buy em by the bag...

Quoted from monkfe:

I wear cheap white gloves from Amazon....as do all my guests....keeps fingerprints off the metal too...you'd be surprised how quickly they get dirty....buy em by the bag...

Quoted from BigSilverPin:

Need some help I am still having an issue with coil #19 not being able to clear multiple balls when they get stacked up during multiball (the ejecter behind Daredevil bart and to the right of the bully targets/otto lane). Was wondering if it was a coil strength issue or possibly the angle of the plunger? The mechanism has trouble clearing the ball, especially when multiple balls get stuck in the lane/hole. It also seems like the second ball leans on the first in the hole, preventing the front one from ejecting. Any advice regarding the coil or plunger adjustment? The noise and plunger fire, but the ball doesn't always leave the hole.
Thank you in advance!!