(Topic ID: 50801)

TSPP Owners Club..... Members Only!!!


By kwiKimart

6 years ago



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  • 4,135 posts
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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by marspinball
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There are 4135 posts in this topic. You are on page 82 of 83.
#4051 37 days ago

#4052 37 days ago

Trying to get it into a 2008 Audi Q7... The opening at the back trunk is just not tall enough...

Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

A TSPP will fit in a Rav4 with the head folded down. Which suv are you using?

#4053 37 days ago

That's actually a REALLY good idea.... I think that might do the trick....
I'll give it a shot...
Thanks!

Quoted from ralphwiggum:

I wouldn't call it easy nor difficult. There are a ton of wires though, so just make sure you take good pics/label them. How much room do you need to get the machine in with the head on and folded down? A little trick I like to use in a pinch, is to unbolt the head at the bottom when it is folded down, and then slide it down a few inches with the wires still connected in the head. You have to be super careful, but you can make that work if you just need another inch or two.

#4054 36 days ago
Quoted from Ponzie:

That's actually a REALLY good idea.... I think that might do the trick....
I'll give it a shot...
Thanks!

I did this exact same trick in my wife’s Q7 when I bought my LOTR a couple years ago. Used some cardboard to protect the headliner on the sides as I “crammed” it in. But made it just fine.

#4055 36 days ago

A stern is easier as a BW is my op opinion

Just take some good pictures before taking the wires off. The keying should also avoid misplacing connectors as well as the cable harness ‘flow’. But I do always prior to switching it back on compare the work with the pictures and look if the colors of the cables match. Till now always OK.

#4056 35 days ago

Hey guys if I hold down the left flipper there is a lot of buzzing noise, I can't remember if that is normal or not. Do you guys have that too?

#4057 35 days ago
Quoted from sk8ersublime:

I bought the machine from a route, and it’s overall in really good condition minus some flipper wear. But I started checking the connectors on the power board and saw this repair...they cut out the pcb and made the circuit with breadboard behind the pcb...now I’m scared lol

Wow. That said, a transistor that burns up catastrophically can leave a nice hole in the board. This might be the least bad option that saves the PCB, depending on what's lurking on the back.

#4058 34 days ago
Quoted from Ponzie:

Trying to get it into a 2008 Audi Q7... The opening at the back trunk is just not tall enough...

I have a 2018 Tiguan, similar car. My TSPP barely fit. we ended up putting the cargo mat on the top of the backbox and it was jammed into the back, flexing the ceiling foam/fabric a tad. No damage though to the car or the machine.

#4059 33 days ago

Hey guys, going to switch my simpsons to leds, anyone have a bulb count?
Wedge?
Bayonet?
Flasher count and bases?

Anywhere I really need colors? I'd prefer not to, but if some places it's better i'm willing to try it.
Doesn't have to be exact, I usually buy the regular bulbs in packs of 25.

Since this machine is pretty much flawless, i'll likely spring for the non ghosting.
And I like to use the optimax bulbs where they can be seen so they aren't blinding.

First time owning a stern (have had lot's of Williams), so feel free to offer any advice is anything is different.

Thanks,
Joe

#4060 32 days ago

My machine have LED's in the GI, and they are flickering terribly. It came with the LEDs, so i dont know the make or quality of them. But i believe i read somwhere that the early Stern machines are very prone to LED flickering in the GI. So that could be something to watch out for. Perhaps others have some experience with GI LEDs?

#4061 32 days ago

Can't speak to the GI, but for inserts you MUST get an LED OCD board. It eliminates ghosting and works even better with regular LEDs.

#4062 32 days ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Hey guys, going to switch my simpsons to leds, anyone have a bulb count?
Wedge?
Bayonet?
Flasher count and bases?

Having just gone through this with my TSPP and my TZ, I would suggest that you lift your playfield up and look at all the sockets and see what type of bulb would go best. ie I liked using the flexible head type in areas where there is say an arrow type insert, or its a bit far from socket(typically bayonet type) . Same thing with the flasher type bulbs some are better flat style, on top side the regular flasher works better. For the wedge type bulbs that fit on mounted PC boards that only point up, I wished I had used the flat type bulb instead of the more typical round style. I went with all white (not colored)bulbs, I believe it was a natural white, a little whiter than the soft. I definitely like the led look, so much brighter. On the top side I went with frosted bulbs, non ghosting. I used the ledocd board on the TZ (must have), but I only have a small noticeable issue on my Simpsons (2006 mfg), but I'll get the board eventually.

#4063 31 days ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Having just gone through this with my TSPP and my TZ, I would suggest that you lift your playfield up and look at all the sockets and see what type of bulb would go best. ie I liked using the flexible head type in areas where there is say an arrow type insert, or its a bit far from socket(typically bayonet type) . Same thing with the flasher type bulbs some are better flat style, on top side the regular flasher works better. For the wedge type bulbs that fit on mounted PC boards that only point up, I wished I had used the flat type bulb instead of the more typical round style. I went with all white (not colored)bulbs, I believe it was a natural white, a little whiter than the soft. I definitely like the led look, so much brighter. On the top side I went with frosted bulbs, non ghosting. I used the ledocd board on the TZ (must have), but I only have a small noticeable issue on my Simpsons (2006 mfg), but I'll get the board eventually.

Yeah, I opened it up last night and swapped out a couple bulbs.
Not going to be system 11 simple.
These inserts really need colors. Not thrilled about $139 on an ocd board either.
Looks like it will need some of the 90 degree bulbs too.

What does everyone use on the playfield backboard/headboard?
I was thinking of using opti max bulbs there.

#4064 28 days ago

Anyone have some tips to the upper right saucer where the ball shoots up and lands in the pocket but the game does not register. When ball search is conducted it kicks out. I checked the switch test for this (#24 upper right saucer) and it registers. I adjusted the metal tab a bit but still nothing. You think the micro switch is still toast even thought it will register in test mode?

It seemed to get slower and slower to acknowledge the ball the past few weeks.

Thank you

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#4065 28 days ago
Quoted from MG7322:

Anyone have some tips to the upper right saucer where the ball shoots up and lands in the pocket but the game does not register. When ball search is conducted it kicks out. I checked the switch test for this (#24 upper right saucer) and it registers. I adjusted the metal tab a bit but still nothing. You think the micro switch is still toast even thought it will register in test mode?
It seemed to get slower and slower to acknowledge the ball the past few weeks.
Thank you
[quoted image]

When you say it doesn’t register, do you hear the game sound of it ejecting, but the coil doesn’t fire it out?

If this is the case, This is a fairly common issue. You have to shorten the coil plunger travel. At the back of the plunger where it meets the rubber stop, affix something to it that is roughly 1/4” thick, like a piece of plywood or plastic. I’ve seen people use a beer bottle cap. Took me many year to address this issue, and including trying other coils, but this is all that worked. Fires perfectly very time.

If this isn’t the case, it’s the switch most likely.

#4066 28 days ago

On it! Report in a few minutes

#4067 28 days ago

Bottle cap spacer not installed.

Rolled the ball into it 20x. 1, 14,15 did not register and went into ball search. All the rest of the attempts it registered.

Bottle cap installed
Rolled the ball into it 20x 0 ball search. Looks like it did need the spacer after all.

Interesting.

Thank you!

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#4068 28 days ago
Quoted from MG7322:

Bottle cap spacer not installed.
Rolled the ball into it 20x. 1, 14,15 did not register and went into ball search. All the rest of the attempts it registered.
Bottle cap installed
Rolled the ball into it 20x 0 ball search. Looks like it did need the spacer after all.
Interesting.
Thank you![quoted image]

Nice job! I would put plastic or wood there so no shorts ever occur if the bottle cap gets loose.

#4069 28 days ago

Yes for testing purposes only!

#4070 27 days ago

Ordering some bulbs, is Homer's head a 12v or 6v bulb? I did a search but got conflicting answers and apparently the manual says it's a #906 12v.

#4071 27 days ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Ordering some bulbs, is Homer's head a 12v or 6v bulb? I did a search but got conflicting answers and apparently the manual says it's a #906 12v.

906 12v is correct.... its a standard flasher as used in other parts of the game.

#4072 25 days ago

Who sells the best side blades for tspp?

#4073 25 days ago

Would also like to know, the ones I have are too thin and rip easily.

#4074 25 days ago

PinGraffix has something. Silly Old Elf as well, but they are fragile.

#4075 25 days ago

I highly recommend these protectors if you have side blades. Even the fragile ones will be fine with these things on there.

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

#4076 25 days ago

What are those things exactly? Are they a permanent fixture or something you put in place when raising / lowering the PF? The description isn't very clear.

#4077 25 days ago

They are basically just pieces of plastic molded to fit over the sides of the cabinet when you need to protect the sides. They just slide in place and pull off when you’re done. I think they come from Pinball Universe in Germany and Pinball Life stocks them. The price is kind of ridiculous, but they do work well.

#4078 25 days ago

Hi there

I just have an issue here. My TSPP is not giving any Mystery award at all. I checked the switch everything is working fine. I just wonder is it a software setting issue or rom corrupted issue?

I can fix this issue by re-setting the machine but is it normal? Does the machine stop giving mystery awards after how many games you have played?

Please help.

#4079 25 days ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

They are basically just pieces of plastic molded to fit over the sides of the cabinet when you need to protect the sides. They just slide in place and pull off when you’re done. I think they come from Pinball Universe in Germany and Pinball Life stocks them. The price is kind of ridiculous, but they do work well.

Less “moulded” more Pre marked and you then you crease them yourself.

Still a good idea.

#4080 25 days ago

I wonder if a sheet of mylar over the sideblade would do the trick..

#4081 20 days ago

Anyone in the club install a pinsound board in their game? Would love thoughts on the 1 tspp sound package. Is it an exact match of the original sound package?

#4082 20 days ago

I would curious about this as well. This would be a fun game to mod with pinsound.

#4083 20 days ago

I'm (seriously) thinking of joining the TSPP club. I have a WOZ and I guess I'm a fan of Balcer's design, packed playfields, impossible to get wizard modes and tricky rulesheets !

My question is a bit broad but I'll take any advice : Are there any major annoyances or blockers to look for when buying a second hand TSPP ? I'm thinking of things like the 1.0 light boards on WOZ, the garage door on TSPP that I often see not working on some machines without knowing if it happens to often, if it's related to some specific versions or if it's too much of a hassle to fix.

Thanks for the help, I really want to get one.

#4084 20 days ago
Quoted from adol75:

I'm (seriously) thinking of joining the TSPP club. I have a WOZ and I guess I'm a fan of Balcer's design, packed playfields, impossible to get wizard modes and tricky rulesheets !
My question is a bit broad but I'll take any advice : Are there any major annoyances or blockers to look for when buying a second hand TSPP ? I'm thinking of things like the 1.0 light boards on WOZ, the garage door on TSPP that I often see not working on some machines without knowing if it happens to often, if it's related to some specific versions or if it's too much of a hassle to fix.
Thanks for the help, I really want to get one.

TSPP was my first pin, WOZ was my second. No weird lighting issues like with WOZ. IMHO, TSPP is an easy pin to work on. The upper PF comes off really easily. The garage door opens via a coil that just pops it up from beneath the PF (uncomplicated mech). Your basically just looking for wear and broken ramps and plastics. Does it have cliffy's? is the ramp under the PF (behind the garage) broken? Other than that, the usual stuff (hacks on any of the boards? acid damage from leaking batteries, etc)

Good luck! TSPP is an awesome game, very deep ruleset like WOZ.

#4085 20 days ago

Look for a worn out Krusty hole.

#4086 20 days ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Look for a worn out Krusty hole.

That just sounds so wrong!

#4087 20 days ago

Haha. Made my day.

Agree, it's an easy pin. Check the couch, garage door, plastics, homer head; but even then, that's easy mechanics.

#4088 20 days ago
Quoted from Only_Pinball:

That just sounds so wrong!

Well the hole is really the itchy and scratchy hole. But that doesn't really sound any better.

#4089 20 days ago

The proper term is blown out I&S hole.

#4090 19 days ago
Quoted from Fizz:

Well the hole is really the itchy and scratchy hole. But that doesn't really sound any better.

THAT'S what I was trying to think of!!! I was close....give me some credit.

#4091 19 days ago

Thanks for all the advice, I was slightly puzzled with the Krusty hole, but it's all clear now ! I'm headed to Free Gold Watch in SF today, to put a pile of coins in the one they have and figure if I'm in or not. They've also received the new Black Knight, I'm curious to see how it plays.

#4092 19 days ago

The itchy and scratchy hole can definitely get krusty if you don’t look after it. I would prescribe a nice antibiotic novus 1 or 2 cream for it at least once a day for two weeks til it clears up. And by all means, practice safe holing and put that rubber glove on when ever cleaning a new hole. You never know where that hole has been!!

#4093 19 days ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

The itchy and scratchy hole can definitely get krusty if you don’t look after it. I would prescribe a nice antibiotic novus 1 or 2 cream for it at least once a day for two weeks til it clears up. And by all means, practice safe holing and put that rubber glove on when ever cleaning a new hole. You never know where that hole has been!!

I’m close to pulling the trigger on TSPP, normally you can tell how much play the pin has seen through the shooter lane but the one I’m looking at had a bit of wear right where the shooter lane ends and the artwork begins. Is this a sign of high use? Any thoughts would be helpful, thanks.

F717E33A-6888-4A03-87AC-183D9B5B0CF9 (resized).jpeg
#4094 19 days ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

I’m close to pulling the trigger on TSPP, normally you can tell how much play the pin has seen through the shooter lane but the one I’m looking at had a bit of wear right where the shooter lane ends and the artwork begins. Is this a sign of high use? Any thoughts would be helpful, thanks.[quoted image]

Doesnt look like high use to me, still a lot of black paint in the shooter lane.

#4095 19 days ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Doesnt look like high use to me, still a lot of black paint in the shooter lane.

All the pictures look nice, just how the end of the shooter lane is missing the black paint looked kind of strange.

#4096 19 days ago

Wear will be evident in the I&S hole, the ramps, the inlane ball drops, and the drain or out hole.

#4097 19 days ago

No one has put a pinsound board in one of these yet?

#4098 19 days ago
Quoted from Wildbill327:

I’m close to pulling the trigger on TSPP, normally you can tell how much play the pin has seen through the shooter lane but the one I’m looking at had a bit of wear right where the shooter lane ends and the artwork begins. Is this a sign of high use? Any thoughts would be helpful, thanks.[quoted image]

That's just the silkscreen being slightly off IMHO. mine was the same way. Where I thought mine was worn I noticed the very tip there where the shooter lane ended was still indented. So the screen would not apply ink there.

I had my wife touch it up and then I cleared over it.

#4099 19 days ago
Quoted from arcadenerd925:

That's just the silkscreen being slightly off IMHO. mine was the same way. Where I thought mine was worn I noticed the very tip there where the shooter lane ended was still indented. So the screen would not apply ink there.
I had my wife touch it up and then I cleared over it.

Thanks for all the input guys.

#4100 19 days ago

Hi guys. I finally joined the TSPP club after looking for a nice one locally for about 18 months.

The only issue I am having is that the VUK that puts the ball onto the upper left playfield has to take quite a few shots to get it up there. The garage door coil seems to be fine other than a ball getting stuck in there (and fixes are on this thread).

Is there a common issue causing the kicker not getting it up to the playfield?

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