Lyndon, VT
That is a beautiful machine!!
(Topic ID: 50801)
Linked Games
The Simpsons Pinball Party
Stern, 2003
Topic Gallery
New GC for me tonight, 491M.
Completed Secret Stash, Daredevil Mania, Scratchy's Revenge and had 7 SJPs.
Did not complete Mystery Spot or Alien Invasion, played both twice.
Finished Mystery Spot last night in a separate game, but have never finished Alien Invasion.
Getting close.
Quoted from Maken:New GC for me tonight, 491M.
Completed Secret Stash, Daredevil Mania, Scratchy's Revenge and had 7 SJPs.
Did not complete Mystery Spot or Alien Invasion, played both twice.
Finished Mystery Spot last night in a separate game, but have never finished Alien Invasion.
Getting close.
That's an achievement!
Quoted from Maken:New GC for me tonight, 491M.
Completed Secret Stash, Daredevil Mania, Scratchy's Revenge and had 7 SJPs.
Did not complete Mystery Spot or Alien Invasion, played both twice.
Finished Mystery Spot last night in a separate game, but have never finished Alien Invasion.
Getting close.
Man, how do you do this? Quite an achievement. My GC is like 110M @ 5 balls ..... 
New member of the club here, I'm very excited to finally dig into this game. I've only ever played a barely working bar machine and a few games at a league members house. I got mine from said league member and it's in beautiful shape and a joy to play. Time to put some time into absorbing all the rules!
Calgary, AB
Quoted from Boat:Welcome, congrats on the pickup! Its crazy how different a well maintained and level game can play to something at let's say a bar.
It's especially nice when all the flippers work. 
Quoted from adamross:My game resets itself while in play. Right before it happens, the flippers start behaving erratically. Does a board need to be replaced? Any advice would be appreciated!
Can you elaborate by erratically?
Usually this is caused by a low +5v supply for the computer. Try re-seating the +5v connector first. (Ultimately it is best to re-pin the slightly oxidized connectors, but I've gotten away with this twice in the last six years.)
I wouldn't recommend replacing a board. They're expensive, and if you have a connector problem and replace the boards, you still have a connector problem.
Quoted from ts4z:Can you elaborate by erratically?
Usually this is caused by a low +5v supply for the computer. Try re-seating the +5v connector first. (Ultimately it is best to re-pin the slightly oxidized connectors, but I've gotten away with this twice in the last six years.)
I wouldn't recommend replacing a board. They're expensive, and if you have a connector problem and replace the boards, you still have a connector problem.
thanks very much, will give this a try.
(Right before the game restarts, for about 5 seconds the flipper buttons start to become unresponsive)
So I installed a pi-sim board on my "A" board. I've been looking at doing this mod since I picked up my machine a few weeks back, but found that I had a "A" board, and this mod only worked on the "E" boards. After a couple of emails with the maker, Pascal, it appeared that the connector spacing was the only issue, otherwise it would work on any of the boards. So I did a little digging on the connectors, they're just regular molex KK type connectors, but one male and one female. The male is typically soldered onto a board, so had to get a little unorthodox with the connector soldering. I could have, in retrospect, used a straight in type male connector, but went with a 90 degree type to give myself a little " loop" at the top of the board as there was going to be a little shift, but I think it would have worked fine with the straight in. I measured 1.5 inches from the back of the connector to the end of the wire, this gave plenty of length to loop the wire. make sure you tin both the wire and male connector first, it makes it easier and don't overheat the male connector. Order extra terminals ends (they're cheap), as you will probably ruin a few (need special tool too). The wires were actually pretty stiff and supported it quite well, but I was going to add a screw in type zip tie at the top of the box if needed to add some support for the board. Don't forget to remove or cut the indexing pins.
mouser part numbers
538-09-50-3091 9pin female connector
538-09-50-3101 10pin female connector
538-09-50-3121 12pin female connector
538-09-50-0106 terminal ends (female) order extra
538-26-60-5090 09pin male connector
538-26-60-5100 10pin male connector
538-26-60-5120 12pin male connector
20190316_130358 (resized).jpg20190316_130608 (resized).jpg20190316_130614 (resized).jpg20190316_150711 (resized).jpg20190316_152039 (resized).jpgQuoted from monkfe:So I installed a pi-sim board on my "A" board. I've been looking at doing this mod since I picked up my machine a few weeks back, but found that I had a "A" board, and this mod only worked on the "E" boards. After a couple of emails with the maker, Pascal, it appeared that the connector spacing was the only issue, otherwise it would work on any of the boards. So I did a little digging on the connectors, they're just regular molex KK type connectors, but one male and one female. The male is typically soldered onto a board, so had to get a little unorthodox with the connector soldering. I could have, in retrospect, used a straight in type male connector, but went with a 90 degree type to give myself a little " loop" at the top of the board as there was going to be a little shift, but I think it would have worked fine with the straight in. I measured 1.5 inches from the back of the connector to the end of the wire, this gave plenty of length to loop the wire. make sure you tin both the wire and male connector first, it makes it easier and don't overheat the male connector. Order extra terminals ends (they're cheap), as you will probably ruin a few (need special tool too). The wires were actually pretty stiff and supported it quite well, but I was going to add a screw in type zip tie at the top of the box if needed to add some support for the board. Don't forget to remove or cut the indexing pins.
mouser part numbers
538-09-50-3091 9pin female connector
538-09-50-3101 10pin female connector
538-09-50-3121 12pin female connector
538-09-50-0106 terminal ends (female) order extra
538-26-60-5090 09pin male connector
538-26-60-5100 10pin male connector
538-26-60-5120 12pin male connector
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
So....what does this mod do?
Quoted from indypinhead:So....what does this mod do?
the PI-SIM? , been around for a while turns off the upper playfield flippers until the ball is in the upper playfield, then off again when it either lands on the couch, or drops via the monorail. I just got it to work on my "A" board with these connectors if anyone else is interested.
Quoted from mavantix:Nice work monkfe! I think PI-SIM is one of the best mods for TSPP. Quiets the game down considerably.
I think so, I wish I knew someone who made boards, one small board with a header with 12 pins would work for all three of these, just solder the 9, 10 or 12 pin header and female plug onto the boards as needed.
I'm gauging interest on a Monorail mod. This was created in collaboration with Joe Zenkus (toyotaboy), who does my 3D printing. This comes as three separate monorail cars, and they attach to the v track. Price is probably going to be $120 through either my Pinside shop or mezelmods. Right now I only have this prototype. Because of the cost and time they take to make, I'd like an idea of how many people might be initially interested.
IMG_20190322_055647_332 (resized).jpgQuoted from TenaciousT:I could be wrong , but it looks like it blocks a lot of the play field ?
I played with it on quite a bit, and the DD Bart newton ball is partially hidden, but Bart shows exactly where that shot is. The right ramp is partially hidden, but Moe's sign and the rest of the ramp are clearly visible. Otto's shot and the garage are in full view. I understand this mod, or any mods, aren't for everyone, but TSPP is such a fun game to play around with the theme. I felt the v track and decal were so underwhelming.
Quoted from Sparky:I played with it on quite a bit, and the DD Bart newton ball is partially hidden, but Bart shows exactly where that shot is. The right ramp is partially hidden, but Moe's sign and the rest of the ramp are clearly visible. Otto's shot and the garage are in full view. I understand this mod, or any mods, aren't for everyone, but TSPP is such a fun game to play around with the theme. I felt the v track and decal were so underwhelming.
Why not just reduce the scale of it. Cool little idea, but not having it obstruct the view might get more people interested.
Good work though 
Quoted from TenaciousT:I could be wrong , but it looks like it blocks a lot of the play field ?
You're not wrong at all. I would have a difficult time seeing the stuff I'm trying to shoot for.
Beat Alien Invasion today!
First time ever... I have now done all of the things for SDMEWM... just gotta do it all in one game.
Quoted from mavantix:Could it be moved to the curved part of the ramp so it's not in the line of sight?
Maybe able to stop the annoying bounce out drains.
Quoted from monkfe:Yeah that's a washer, should just pop off...try "grabbing" it with a small adj wrench and pry it off.
Ok...cool will do. Thanks!
does anyone have sillioldelf blades on his tspp and could post few pictures to illustrate and comment on durability ? considering the purchase. thanks
Quoted from BENETNATH:does anyone have sillioldelf blades on his tspp and could post few pictures to illustrate and comment on durability ? considering the purchase. thanks
Grabbed some pics I had on my phone.
Durability is fine but material is thinner as with pinblades from for instance pingraffix. Think they will scratch more easy but I use protectors when lifting the playfield.
151D3764-03AF-45C6-817A-B25A86CDE874 (resized).jpeg17DCCDC7-B25F-44CE-B0EE-0ADB27D4B639 (resized).jpeg6C050529-0843-4AE4-A308-3DEA4578990D (resized).jpegC1DCAD76-7237-46D5-9A29-64A95071F8BA (resized).jpegQuoted from BENETNATH:does anyone have sillioldelf blades on his tspp and could post few pictures to illustrate and comment on durability ? considering the purchase. thanks
I have them but I'm replacing them soon with Tilt Graphics' product instead. The print quality is excellent but the vinyl material is way too thin, difficult to install cleanly and tears easily. I had a gash from lifting the playfield within weeks of putting it on and going around the wooden blocks at the back of the cabinet was a real headache. It also stretches easily so the speaker surround may need to be cut to fit well.
1 week later
Selling my 2006 HUO TSPP. I'm the original owner. Unmoded but has protectors installed. Game must be picked up and located in San Diego.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-the-simpsons-pinball-party-107#post-4926017
My game recently started having some issues where the couch coil will start firing when I turn the game on. And when that happens, the start button doesn’t work until I give the machine a little bump. Sometimes it doesn’t do this.
I bought the machine from a route, and it’s overall in really good condition minus some flipper wear. But I started checking the connectors on the power board and saw this repair...they cut out the pcb and made the circuit with breadboard behind the pcb...now I’m scared lol
E2B20AE9-B11C-4CE4-8F5F-3B5965ACA2E1.jpegQuoted from sk8ersublime:My game recently started having some issues where the couch coil will start firing when I turn the game on. And when that happens, the start button doesn’t work until I give the machine a little bump. Sometimes it doesn’t do this.
I bought the machine from a route, and it’s overall in really good condition minus some flipper wear. But I started checking the connectors on the power board and saw this repair...they cut out the pcb and made the circuit with breadboard behind the pcb...now I’m scared lol[quoted image]
Maybe it's detecting a ball in the couch and trying to eject it? If so, it could just be a switch issue.
Quoted from Jahkub:Maybe it's detecting a ball in the couch and trying to eject it? If so, it could just be a switch issue.
good thought. Ill try cleaning the switches, and if that doesnt help, ill replace them and see if that matters.
Quoted from sk8ersublime:good thought. Ill try cleaning the switches, and if that doesnt help, ill replace them and see if that matters.
Or maybe try changing the setting to hold the couch lock balls game to game to see if it still acts up.
First, get rid of the batteries and get an NVRAM chip. Second, the extra ball score will change by itself if it is routinely reached. Normal.
Hey all,
Picking up a TSPP for my collection next week. Need to get it in an SUV as I'm picking it up about 250 miles away...
How easy is it to remove the head on the machine?
I've done it before on my AFMr but I'm not as familiar with this generation of Stern machines...
Thanks for any advice (besides "Just rent a van!") 
Quoted from Ponzie:Hey all,
Picking up a TSPP for my collection next week. Need to get it in an SUV as I'm picking it up about 250 miles away...
How easy is it to remove the head on the machine?
I've done it before on my AFMr but I'm not as familiar with this generation of Stern machines...
Thanks for any advice (besides "Just rent a van!")
I wouldn't call it easy nor difficult. There are a ton of wires though, so just make sure you take good pics/label them. How much room do you need to get the machine in with the head on and folded down? A little trick I like to use in a pinch, is to unbolt the head at the bottom when it is folded down, and then slide it down a few inches with the wires still connected in the head. You have to be super careful, but you can make that work if you just need another inch or two.
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