(Topic ID: 50801)

TSPP Owners Club..... Members Only!!!


By kwiKimart

6 years ago



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There are 4896 posts in this topic. You are on page 76 of 98.
#3751 1 year ago

I'm in! Got a pristine HUO one today (minus the cupholders the dude screwed in )

Gonna scroll through this huge thread, but a few questions:
LED's in inserts - I usually go Comet 2SMD, will they ghost bad, or is it worth switching?
Cliffys - since it's in such good shape, get all the protectors? Or just the Otto ramp is worth it?
Protector - was thinking of getting once since they're on sale currently. But think I'll just save some money and keep the playfield clean.

MVIMG_20181029_230104 (resized).jpg
#3752 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

LED's in inserts - I usually go Comet 2SMD, will they ghost bad, or is it worth switching?

Yes, my one ghosted badly. I need to use non-ghost LEDs from comet. However, if I could do it all over again. I will buy stern OCD LED board and just use 2SMD. On the other hand, it is worth it to install Cliffys protector on your machine. Enjoy it!

#3753 1 year ago
Quoted from Fizz:

I have no idea if it exists in that version, but just wanted to mention that the setting you are looking for is called "freeze time". I have no idea why they named it that.

Thanks! I found that. I was wondering where the option was. Before turning that on, a few times the ball would go back into the shooter lane, i was expecting it to auto fire, but it didnt. Does the auto fire only work on Ball Save? Ive only played this table virtually so idk what the real experience should be haha.

Also, should there be a loud BRRRRZZZZZZZ when the ball releases from the TV? That was in my virtual cab, but not on this one. I think i need to update the roms to 5.0

Oh and one more thing...the cabinet i got, the OP replaced the batteries with a lithium cell battery...ok to leave that for now? I was planning on NVRAM update, but if the lithium is ok, ill just leave that for now.

#3754 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

The resistor / potentiometer mod greatly reduces the hum and makes it much nicer. A must do IMO

Is this the fix you are referring to: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-speaker-humbuzz-fixed

Because my TSPP is humming badly! Or if you have some other info please let me know.

#3755 1 year ago

That's it! Do iiiit! I pm'd the guy about a year ago and he sold me a kit. If he doesn't do it anymore he shows you how to make it in the thread IIRC .

#3756 1 year ago
Quoted from sk8ersublime:

Thanks! I found that. I was wondering where the option was. Before turning that on, a few times the ball would go back into the shooter lane, i was expecting it to auto fire, but it didnt. Does the auto fire only work on Ball Save? Ive only played this table virtually so idk what the real experience should be haha.
Also, should there be a loud BRRRRZZZZZZZ when the ball releases from the TV? That was in my virtual cab, but not on this one. I think i need to update the roms to 5.0
Oh and one more thing...the cabinet i got, the OP replaced the batteries with a lithium cell battery...ok to leave that for now? I was planning on NVRAM update, but if the lithium is ok, ill just leave that for now.

As I recall, when the ball goes back into the shooter lane, it does not auto launch. It gives you a chance to hit the skill shot again.

When the ball releases from the tv, there's a sound effect played, but not a loud buzz.

I have lithium batteries in my tspp currently, as well. It's fine to use those for now, my thought (hope) is that they will last a long time and will not leak. Not sure of that, though. NVRAM would be better, I need to do that upgrade myself.

#3757 1 year ago
Quoted from Fizz:

As I recall, when the ball goes back into the shooter lane, it does not auto launch. It gives you a chance to hit the skill shot again.
When the ball releases from the tv, there's a sound effect played, but not a loud buzz.
I have lithium batteries in my tspp currently, as well. It's fine to use those for now, my thought (hope) is that they will last a long time and will not leak. Not sure of that, though. NVRAM would be better, I need to do that upgrade myself.

NVRAM takes less than 60 seconds to do and costs about $20. No brainer upgrade. If any battery leaks you’ll have a $200-400 repair. Why worry about it? Plus your next set of batteries will cost close to $10 anyway...

When a game is drop in NVRAM there is no reason not to do it immediately in my opinion.

Also - to the other poster with the LED question - you will lose all the awesome fading effects of this game if you Led the inserts without using the OCD board.

#3758 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

That's it! Do iiiit! I pm'd the guy about a year ago and he sold me a kit. If he doesn't do it anymore he shows you how to make it in the thread IIRC .

Great!! I actually just did it. Just took two 4.7 kOhm resistors and soldered directly over (parallel) the existing R106 and R110 resistors. Quick and dirty. It doesn't let me adjust anything, but it improved the speaker noise quite a bit. Awesome...

Now if only i could get rid of my transformes noise in the machine as well. Seems that is a lot harder as i already tried the "bash it wit a hammer"-approach, tightening it to the cabinet and tightening the bolts that goes thru the transformer it self. But still no luck

#3759 1 year ago

Hi Everyone,

I am downsizing and will be putting my 1st run, original owner TSPP up for sale soon. Has ColorDMD, mirror blades, Full LEd's, speaker surround, and Titan rubbers. A really beautiful game. Located in central VA. $5500.

#3760 1 year ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Great!! I actually just did it. Just took two 4.7 kOhm resistors and soldered directly over (parallel) the existing R106 and R110 resistors. Quick and dirty. It doesn't let me adjust anything, but it improved the speaker noise quite a bit. Awesome...
Now if only i could get rid of my transformes noise in the machine as well. Seems that is a lot harder as i already tried the "bash it wit a hammer"-approach, tightening it to the cabinet and tightening the bolts that goes thru the transformer it self. But still no luck

Try rubber mounting the transformer.

#3761 1 year ago

Hi
We recently bought a Simpsons Pinball Party. It is our first pinball at home, and it is very fun. (But challenging !)
I want to remove the mylar from my tspp. It is a little bit tarnished. But I am afraid of the problems about the inserts. Specially the complex insert with Homer & Barney, at the beginning of the Moe ramp. And the family Simpsons heads in the middle of the playfield.

Does anyone already remove a mylar on a tspp playfield ? I didn't found any feedback on the thread.
Is it a playfield with a good robustness (diamond plate, or similar), or not ?
What is the best method with this particular playfield. Freeze or heater?
And how to repair the complex inserts if I have a problem ? I didn't find any reproduction of the insert decal on the Internet.

Thanks for your experiences

#3762 1 year ago
Quoted from Ben38:

Hi
We recently bought a Simpsons Pinball Party. It is our first pinball at home, and it is very fun. (But challenging !)
I want to remove the mylar from my tspp. It is a little bit tarnished. But I am afraid of the problems about the inserts. Specially the complex insert with Homer & Barney, at the beginning of the Moe ramp. And the family Simpsons heads in the middle of the playfield.
Does anyone already remove a mylar on a tspp playfield ? I didn't found any feedback on the thread.
Is it a playfield with a good robustness (diamond plate, or similar), or not ?
What is the best method with this particular playfield. Freeze or heater?
And how to repair the complex inserts if I have a problem ? I didn't find any reproduction of the insert decal on the Internet.
Thanks for your experiences

Do you have any pictures? Mylar didn't come from the factory on this one. It is a modern clearcoat, so mylar removal shouldn't be too bad depending on what has been applied to your machine.

#3763 1 year ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Try rubber mounting the transformer.

Any tips about this? Links or images from others that have done it? Or do I just insert small rubber rings between the bottom of the bracket and the cabinet?

#3764 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Got a pristine HUO one today (minus the cupholders the dude screwed in )

Was the previous owner a Homer or what?

zivxHE1.gif
#3765 1 year ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Any tips about this? Links or images from others that have done it? Or do I just insert small rubber rings between the bottom of the bracket and the cabinet?

Personally, I haven't done it, but I would just try some rubber grommets between the transformer and the screws that mount it.

#3766 1 year ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

Do you have any pictures? Mylar didn't come from the factory on this one. It is a modern clearcoat, so mylar removal shouldn't be too bad depending on what has been applied to your machine.

Yes I have.
I joined a photo of the playfield. The black lines are the edges of the mylar.
On the others photos, you can see some spots where the mylar is damaged. The Homer between the nuclear plant, and the entrance of the Otto bus tour.
And I add the "Collect nuclear plant" insert. There is a small relief. Does it means that I seriously risk to damage the playfield in removing the mylar ?

That why I'm worried about removing the mylar. And Why I'm asking for advice, and past experiences.

Central mylar to remove (resized).jpgHomer Barney (resized).jpgNuclear plant (resized).jpgOtto (resized).jpgTspp mylar map (resized).jpg
#3767 1 year ago

I would just clean up the edges of the mylar and leave it on there. Mylar removal can turn into a nightmare.

#3768 1 year ago

Anyone have an extra I&S hole pinbits protector? They're sold out and don't pickup the phone or return emails.

#3769 1 year ago
Quoted from Don44:

I would just clean up the edges of the mylar and leave it on there. Mylar removal can turn into a nightmare.

I will maybe consider this option. I really don't want to damage the playfield. If there is a damage, I will always focus on it, and will not see anything else.

#3770 1 year ago
Quoted from dudah:

Anyone have an extra I&S hole pinbits protector? They're sold out and don't pickup the phone or return emails.

Cliff can maybe get one for you.

#3771 1 year ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

Cliff can maybe get one for you.

I asked and he kindly replied how he only cuts metal

#3772 1 year ago

So I just found a pretty nasty bug in my version 2.07. I know i need to update to 5.0. But i didnt see this issue listed in any of the change logs.

Can someone try this on 5.0 and see if its an issue?

If you light every single TV mode on a single ball, the game will crash and reboot.

#3773 1 year ago

It took me long enough but I finally installed my custom topper that I bought earlier this year. Freaking love it!

IMG_7799 (resized).JPG
#3774 1 year ago
Quoted from Melhadmj:

I had this issue and posted a fix in post #3037. If u pull off the upper playfield there is a screw and long spacer coming down from the very top left of the upper pf. I don’t know why because it was not holding anything together, maybe to slow ball down? No idea. After several nights of frustration, removing this 1 screw did the trick. No problem since...

Thank you so much! Gonna try this today.

#3775 1 year ago

Crappy photo, but does anyone know the part number for the bracket that the two leg bolts screw into?

One of mine is stripped.

Thanks.

IMG_20181106_140547 (resized).jpg
#3776 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Crappy photo, but does anyone know the part number for the bracket that the two leg bolts screw into?
One of mine is stripped.
Thanks.
[quoted image]

I couldn't find it in the TSPP manual, but this will work. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-9296

#3777 1 year ago

Best to upgrade to the stronger Williams brackets. Check your cabinet for separation.

1 week later
#3778 1 year ago

Just installed an OCD board in my game to go along with the new LEDs and what a difference! The fading effects of the lights is so much smoother. Definitely worth the money!

And then I had my best game! Over 45 minutes and got to see pretty much every mini wizard mode. Unfortunately, I couldn't complete half of them!

172M... Not great compared to some of the scores I see people put up, but it's definitely my best thus far!

#3779 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

Just installed an OCD board in my game to go along with the new LEDs and what a difference! The fading effects of the lights is so much smoother. Definitely worth the money!
And then I had my best game! Over 45 minutes and got to see pretty much every mini wizard mode. Unfortunately, I couldn't complete half of them!
172M... Not great compared to some of the scores I see people put up, but it's definitely my best thus far!

Nice! My high is on extra easy lol....78M, I had a 98M game going strong and the game rebooted mid ball

#3780 1 year ago
Quoted from sk8ersublime:

Nice! My high is on extra easy lol....78M, I had a 98M game going strong and the game rebooted mid ball

That sucks! Had that happen once to my on TZ. also had a crappy thing happened the other day when I was playing Metallica. My son came to talk to me and I held the flipper that eventually burned out the transistor! Had one of my best balls going to haha.

#3781 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

I held the flipper that eventually burned out the transistor!

Really? Does/can this happen often????

#3782 1 year ago

With a Stern this is known to happen more if you hold the flipperbutton to long.

Better is to put coin door ballsave ON in settings and open the coin door if you need time.

#3783 1 year ago
Quoted from Bendit:

Really? Does/can this happen often????

As above, it can happen pretty easily on Stern's when holding down the flipper button for an extended period.

Mine took about 2 mins to blow.

#3784 1 year ago
Quoted from Damien:

That sucks! Had that happen once to my on TZ. also had a crappy thing happened the other day when I was playing Metallica. My son came to talk to me and I held the flipper that eventually burned out the transistor! Had one of my best balls going to haha.

That sucks! im always afraid of burning something out when i hold the flipper too long. Luckily havent had that happen yet. My upper right flipper buzzes really loud, even after tighting up everything and replacing the coil with another one i had laying around, so that loud buzz makes me feel like something is gonna blow lol.

regarding the reboot, im not sure what the cause of it was yet. some reason, if I get on the upper play field and activate 6 modes on the TV everything works, but as soon as I activate that last mode, the game reboots. Idk if its the code or what. Im currently on CPU 2.07, but my 5.0 roms come today. Im hoping the 5.0 roms fix this issue. Im guessing on that 98M ball, I had 6 modes active and then the 7th was activated on multiball by chance.

I guess the way to fix it is turn off extra easy mode

#3785 1 year ago
Quoted from sk8ersublime:

That sucks! im always afraid of burning something out when i hold the flipper too long. Luckily havent had that happen yet. My upper right flipper buzzes really loud, even after tighting up everything and replacing the coil with another one i had laying around, so that loud buzz makes me feel like something is gonna blow lol.
regarding the reboot, im not sure what the cause of it was yet. some reason, if I get on the upper play field and activate 6 modes on the TV everything works, but as soon as I activate that last mode, the game reboots. Idk if its the code or what. Im currently on CPU 2.07, but my 5.0 roms come today. Im hoping the 5.0 roms fix this issue. Im guessing on that 98M ball, I had 6 modes active and then the 7th was activated on multiball by chance.
I guess the way to fix it is turn off extra easy mode

Might be worthwhile replacing the transistor for that flipper with a beefier one

#3786 1 year ago

I have a used - like new TSPP Itchy and Scratchy TV mod for sale.
Works 100% - full motion video [not still images]. Exact one like here: http://sparkypinball.com/tspp
This one was mounted with a screw thru the bottom of it. You can use a screw or double sided tape to mount it. Has wiring harness that plugs in the power socket by the right flipper.
$100 shipped. Paypal F&F or regular paypal if you add 3% for the fees they charge. PM me.

Added 16 months ago:

This has been spoken for.

#3787 1 year ago
Quoted from Ben38:

Yes I have.
I joined a photo of the playfield. The black lines are the edges of the mylar.
On the others photos, you can see some spots where the mylar is damaged. The Homer between the nuclear plant, and the entrance of the Otto bus tour.
And I add the "Collect nuclear plant" insert. There is a small relief. Does it means that I seriously risk to damage the playfield in removing the mylar ?
That why I'm worried about removing the mylar. And Why I'm asking for advice, and past experiences.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Use the freezing method and you will be perfectly fine. Only the adhesive will be left behind so you will have to remove that.

#3788 1 year ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Use the freezing method and you will be perfectly fine. Only the adhesive will be left behind so you will have to remove that.

OK thanks. I will think about that. I'm afraid about the risk. But it will maybe worth it.

#3789 1 year ago

Hi guys!
Looking for a drop targets set.Who's selling them? BAA an MAD don't seem to have them...

#3790 1 year ago
Quoted from Andre:

Hi guys!
Looking for a drop targets set.Who's selling them? BAA an MAD don't seem to have them...

Marco has the individual drop targets. Or did you mean the entire assembly? Or just the decals? Marco only has the decals as part of the complete set.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5533-01

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-5886-XX

#3791 1 year ago

Thanks! I was ordering them from Marco while you were posting.Gonna try to reuse the targets stickers...(good luck with that!)

#3792 1 year ago

I would also need a major big favor from an TSPP owner.
Having a display issue that i'm trying to solve for the last 3 weeks and have been the owner for only a month.
So the game plays fine but blind and i'm having a party friday night with non pinheads friends that only play once a year when i do this pinball\craft beers evening and i would like to set the machine on extra easy settings so that they easily can get to different modes and multiball and appreciate all the fun in the game even with no display and animations.
But i can't see nada on the dmd.

Would someone be nice enough to write down a complete sequence of the buttons i would have to push to get the game to play extra easy settings like: black,green,green,black,red,red,...?
Wish i could have another Stern to compare but i don't.
That would be really appreciated!
Thanks in advance!

\\\ Just to give you an idea of my pinball bad luck these days (everything seems to give up at the same time) a friend came over to help me diagnose my dmd issue yesterday and both scopes that he brought were not working and when he tried to play a game,a drop target broke on his second ball...

#3793 1 year ago

Looking for advise....When all drop targets are down, the game is repeatedly registering that the drops are complete.

Can someone point me in the right direction as to what to look at?

#3794 1 year ago
Quoted from Ben38:

OK thanks. I will think about that. I'm afraid about the risk. But it will maybe worth it.

freeze method only, but you really got to be careful, especially aroung inserts. getting the glue off is a whole other beast. better be prepared for hours of scrubbing and raw fingers.

#3795 1 year ago

Help appreciated. I recently removed my upper playfield to install led's and I am wondering what I may have missed in putting it back together again. In the photo, under the upper playfield tv, there is a spot that I have no idea what I left out. Behind the metal lane guide and lamp, and before the rollover switch, is another black outlined oval that has two little holes at the ends of the oval. See photo. Anyone know if there is something that goes there? I neglected to take a before photo of the underside of the tv and am trying to put the tv back. Yes, the back wall has been painted pink over the blue. Thanks.

upper playfield under tv (resized).jpg
#3796 1 year ago
Quoted from jimmackale:

Help appreciated. I recently removed my upper playfield to install led's and I am wondering what I may have missed in putting it back together again. In the photo, under the upper playfield tv, there is a spot that I have no idea what I left out. Behind the metal lane guide and lamp, and before the rollover switch, is another black outlined oval that has two little holes at the ends of the oval. See photo. Anyone know if there is something that goes there? I neglected to take a before photo of the underside of the tv and am trying to put the tv back. Yes, the back wall has been painted pink over the blue. Thanks.
[quoted image]

You are good... nothing goes there.

#3797 1 year ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

freeze method only, but you really got to be careful, especially aroung inserts. getting the glue off is a whole other beast. better be prepared for hours of scrubbing and raw fingers.

Rubbing alcohol and baking flour to remove the adhesive. Put the alcohol down first then lay a thin layer of flour onto that. Let it set for a minute and work, then you can easily roll the adhesive up by rubbing your thumb against it. Don't wear gloves as that will just make things slick and give you no grip to roll the adhesive.

#3798 1 year ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

You are good... nothing goes there.

So the question they becomes what was supposed to go there?

#3799 1 year ago

Looks like the intent was to put a large staple like what is right at the ball entrance to the upper playfield from the vuk. Not needed in production.

#3800 1 year ago

Thanks for helping with the unnecessary holes in the upper playfield. I didn't think I had misplaced something.

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