If you want to spend the money, I won't stop you. Personally, the money would be better spent on a Colordmd.
(Topic ID: 50801)
Linked Games
The Simpsons Pinball Party
Stern, 2003
Topic Gallery
I put the Flipper Fidelity kit in mine. It does improve the sound to some degree, but not a huge difference.
Chesterfield, VA
I actually just rounded up the goods to make a dozen. I'll share them with you guys when I get a chance to make them up.
I just figured anything was better than the stock paper cones. But ifn it ain't it aint...
Anyone got a coupon code for colorDMD?
For anyone following along with trying to install NVRAM: One side is "notched" so you know which way to install it, but the chip I replaced was not itself notched. Every *other* chip was (on the bottom, in my case) but this slowed me down a bit when I went to do it.
But it's done and working perfectly!
Quoted from SpiffyRob:For anyone following along with trying to install NVRAM: One side is "notched" so you know which way to install it, but the chip I replaced was not itself notched. Every *other* chip was (on the bottom, in my case) but this slowed me down a bit when I went to do it.
But it's done and working perfectly!
I might follow suit. It's something that I've been considering for awhile now but I was nervous that it was hard to do.
Yeah, I remember that the notch was different. The pins did not lineup exactly-the spread across was too narrow-but I was able to reorient them so it went right in. Works great.
Quoted from SpiffyRob:For anyone following along with trying to install NVRAM: One side is "notched" so you know which way to install it, but the chip I replaced was not itself notched. Every *other* chip was (on the bottom, in my case) but this slowed me down a bit when I went to do it.
But it's done and working perfectly!
If the original RAM chip doesn't have a notch, it has a circle indicating orientation. For reference, the notch or circle should point in the 6 o'clock direction on the main board as it sits in the back box.
Quoted from Ericc123:I might follow suit. It's something that I've been considering for awhile now but I was nervous that it was hard to do.
Very easy. Don’t wait until you have board damage to do it.
Anyone know if the 2- #44 bulbs in the car headlights on the playfield ghost? buying bulk and wanted to know if need to add 2 non-ghosting 44s along with the rest of the 70 - non-ghosting #555 inserts. The GI - minus spotlights and flashers, should not ghost and should be all 44s and will just use those for the headlights if they do not ghost. If i am mistaken, please correct.
THX for your time as always... pinside is the best!
- M
Quoted from SpiffyRob:For anyone following along with trying to install NVRAM: One side is "notched" so you know which way to install it, but the chip I replaced was not itself notched. Every *other* chip was (on the bottom, in my case) but this slowed me down a bit when I went to do it.
But it's done and working perfectly!
Rule of thumb, any IC that you install into a board has a notch and must be inserted correctly. Many ICs have the ground pin and vcc pin at opposite corners (ie. pin #12 gnd, pin #24 vcc) such that if you flip the chip 180 degrees it'll send power through the chip backwards. And internally in the chip there's not usually short-circuit / reverse-polarity protection so the chip will immediately be toast as soon as the machine is powered on.
With the nvram I sell, I include a small instruction sheet that has generic instructions for installation into any board -- the notch and orientation warnings are pretty much the highlight of the instructions. More detailed instructions, RAM location diagrams, etc are located on the website under the manufacturer-specific compatibility charts. Has to be done this way since there's a large variety of boards these are used in. Once in a while someone tosses the instructions without reading them -- and learns a quick lesson in making sure ICs are oriented the right way. Mistakes happen.
If in doubt, look at the rest of the chips on the board. Usually the notches are all facing the same direction, so even if you've already removed the old RAM, you can still follow the orientation of the notch on the other chips.
Quoted from mjs2:Anyone know if the 2- #44 bulbs in the car headlights on the playfield ghost? buying bulk and wanted to know if need to add 2 non-ghosting 44s along with the rest of the 70 - non-ghosting #555 inserts. The GI - minus spotlights and flashers, should not ghost and should be all 44s and will just use those for the headlights if they do not ghost. If i am mistaken, please correct.
THX for your time as always... pinside is the best!
- M
They very well might. Any insert bulb potentially can ghost.
Quoted from acebathound:Could just be the photo, but is there a burn mark or bubbling on the chip (see below).
Most likely, i put it in the wrong way first. Didnt think it would work, but it does.
I have the 5101 in the mail to you today also.
Quoted from mjs2:Anyone know if the 2- #44 bulbs in the car headlights on the playfield ghost? buying bulk and wanted to know if need to add 2 non-ghosting 44s along with the rest of the 70 - non-ghosting #555 inserts. The GI - minus spotlights and flashers, should not ghost and should be all 44s and will just use those for the headlights if they do not ghost. If i am mistaken, please correct.
THX for your time as always... pinside is the best!
- M
I don’t think people’s experience is good measure because someone may have no ghosting and you’d get ghosting. I’d recommend just spending the extra $1-$2 and getting non ghosting so you aren’t in doubt.
Personally I’m avoiding doing any LEDs in the inserts until I feel like adding the LED OCD board. I don’t want to lose the fading effects.
Quoted from finnflash:Most likely, i put it in the wrong way first. Didnt think it would work, but it does.
I have the 5101 in the mail to you today also.
Interesting. Usually if it looks like that the internal die is blown. Happens near the center since that's where the die is located. Sometimes a big hole gets blown through the plastic. I guess in your case it heated up quite a bit, but didn't completely blow any traces or the die. Amazing it's still functional.
I'll toss another 6264 in the box (when I send you the 6116 you're exchanging the 5101 for). Even if the old one still works, I'd rather see the replacement in there.
Thanks for the reply's all makes sense to me; and good knowledge about the NVRAM above as my 6264 showed up yesterday. Waiting on my 5.0 code to show up and will do both at the same time. Looks like a rainy weekend here on the east coast so good time to pull the top play field, finish cleaning under there and replace all the rubbers, expected date for those is Friday, coming along and haven't broken anything yet!
Quoted from Sparky:It's Sega/Stern Whitestar, but I thought I read that some needed or recommended jumper changes.
Theoretically if what's coming out is a 62256 there's a jumper block to change to a 6264. If it's replacing a 6264 RAM, then no jumper change.
That said, all games but Sharkey's Shootout only used the address space (capacity) of a 6264 I'm fairly sure people have been installing without the jumper change. If anyone wants to 100% confirm that, it'd be great 
Here's the diagram I have on my website for Stern Whitestar board RAM location..
http://www.pinitech.com/product_images/ram_locations/ramloc_whitestar.jpg
Quoted from mjs2:Thanks for the reply's all makes sense to me; and good knowledge about the NVRAM above as my 6264 showed up yesterday. Waiting on my 5.0 code to show up and will do both at the same time. Looks like a rainy weekend here on the east coast so good time to pull the top play field, finish cleaning under there and replace all the rubbers, expected date for those is Friday, coming along and haven't broken anything yet!
Regarding the 5 rom- ensure that two rows of pins are the correct distance apart before plugging it in. I've seen a few that were too narrow and had to be adjusted to fit correctly.
Quoted from acebathound:Theoretically if what's coming out is a 62256 there's a jumper block to change to a 6264. If it's replacing a 6264 RAM, then no jumper change.
That said, all games but Sharkey's Shootout only used the address space (capacity) of a 6264 I'm fairly sure people have been installing without the jumper change. If anyone wants to 100% confirm that, it'd be great
Here's the diagram I have on my website for Stern Whitestar board RAM location..
http://www.pinitech.com/product_images/ram_locations/ramloc_whitestar.jpg
Thank you!
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:If you want to spend the money, I won't stop you. Personally, the money would be better spent on a Colordmd.
A good idea is a good idea...
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:Speakers won't matter very much because the quality of the audio is very low fidelity. In other words, you can't polish a turd.
If you get pinsound to go with the new speakers, well then, that's a different story.
Quoted from xbloodgreenx:If you get pinsound to go with the new speakers, well then, that's a different story.
Are there updated sound files to go with the Pinsound? I wasn't even considering it but a good friend has been buying them for all his favorite machines, he can't say enough good things about them. This is one of those games I don't intend to ever let go of.
Quoted from emkay:he can't say enough good things about them
+1. It also saved the sounds of my Champion Pub because the old WPC95 board was going bad.
3 weeks later
Anyone know why my Simpsons just rebooted in the middle of a game? After that I just left it on to monitor the situation and every few minutes it reboots like I flicked the on/off button. Never did this before. I powered it down to be safe.
Thank you.
You have a long way to go on that score, buddy. I like the Duff speaker stickers. Where did you get those?
Quoted from Mikedenton49:A good idea is a good idea...
Indeed, the boy and I had mine installed and setup in 20 minutes... best mod ever
IMG_20180617_145906087_HDR (resized).jpgQuoted from D-Gottlieb:You have a long way to go on that score, buddy. I like the Duff speaker stickers. Where did you get those?
They were already on when I got it. I didn't like them at first but they grew on me.
Quoted from stavio:Indeed, the boy and I had mine installed and setup in 20 minutes... best mod ever
Colordisplay (regardless pin2dmd or colordmd) is the best mod for a Tspp indeed.
Just got a TSPP last weekend after searching for about a year. I've got everything working great except for the I&S kickout, just looking for advice on getting it set up to hit the left flipper every time.
Pitch is sitting at about 7.5 degrees and right now I am at about 95% kickouts to left flipper... unfortunately, the other 5% go SDTM or off a post and towards the left outlane. Is this a reasonable percentage or should I be able to get 100% success? I've tried replacing the sleeve, cleaning the mech, tightening it down and aligning it as far left as possible, removing the pinbits clear protector that was installed by the previous owner. Still can't seem to avoid the odd SDTM.
There seems to be a small divot on the underside of the metal ball deflector piece where the ball hits the metal, would this cause a small variance such as I am experiencing?
I'm sure this has been discussed in the club before but this is a huge thread and any input is appreciated.
Playfield pitch should be 6.5 degrees. The deflector can be adjusted to your liking, however, if there is a divot as you say, that can have an effect. Maybe smooth it down with something or buy a new deflector. Mine hits the left flipper every time and and about half the time bounces right back into the I&S hole.
Sounds like the divot may be from the ball eject angle not being 100% right on? I have never seen a SDTM from the I&S eject, in fact it's so super reliable about either bouncing back to the I&S hole if i don't touch the flipper, or goin up and over into the left outlane if I hold the flipper up 
4 weeks later
Our version of a pincup for tspp
https://lermods.com/t/custom-pingulps
20180718_132650 (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
This club has been quiet for a while.
In collaboration with Joe Zenkus of Random Pinball, I just added the 4th TSPP mod to my shop, as well as available at mezelmods.com.
If you've been pleased with the TV, Treehouse, and Lampstand, you'll be very pleased with In Rod We Trust Flasher Dome Replacement (name the episode).
Comes with a green wedge flex led flasher.
$45 in my Pinside shop or Mezelmods.
20180807_134636 (resized).jpg20180810_124714 (resized).jpgPromoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
