The Simpsons Pinball Party
Stern, 2003Quoted from Da-Shaker:That happened to mine the first time I replaced the Y switch and found out I made a cold solder joint. It worked fine after reheating it and securing the connection.
Thanks for the tip (and to the others that chimed in). I’ll try it again. Maybe the third time will be the charm. Is there an easy way to check the wiring (with a multimeter?) if the new solder job still doesn’t work?
Quoted from Spelunk71:Thanks for the tip (and to the others that chimed in). I’ll try it again. Maybe the third time will be the charm. Is there an easy way to check the wiring (with a multimeter?) if the new solder job still doesn’t work?
My soldering improved drastically after using flux. Just wipe the excess flux off when done and you only need a little bit. I'm still learning too.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:My soldering improved drastically after using flux. Just wipe the excess flux off when done and you only need a little bit. I'm still learning too.
Are you using a plumbers solder? If so....really should invest in electronic solder....flux is in the solder and made for the type of work/repair of a pin and all electronics A good adjustable soldering iron (temperature) helps too. Not much of an investment when you consider the value of what you are working on. Sorry....don't mean to preach.
Hey... Here's a post for some controband;
I've been on the lookout for some replacement plastics for my game.
I found this gentleman from Russia who was selling plastics that he makes (bootleg, no doubt)
He will sell them as a set, or any that you need.
It took a while to get them, but they showed up today and they are really high quality.
Recommended. 
ebay.com link: Stern Simpsons pinball party TSPP plastic replacement set also selling by parts
This has been remarked upon before. That is a lot of money for a bootleg. I don't feel right supporting that.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:This has been remarked upon before. That is a lot of money for a bootleg. I don't feel right supporting that.
I don't feel right having broken plastics. 
The seller is here on pinside and has posted in this thread. Quality is apparently decent.
Also sell copies of sillyoldelf's decals with an amusing typo. It's like a bootleg of an originally unlicensed product to begin with. I think it's the copyright equivalent of a double negative and it cancels out.
A justification to buy these is that the licensed company doesn't offer them for sale and the need is there. I would probably get them if needed, but the price? That is a bit too high I think.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:A justification to buy these is that the licensed company doesn't offer them for sale and the need is there. I would probably get them if needed, but the price? That is a bit too high I think.
Whole set cost 275 include worldwide shipping on eBay for inside members its cost cheaper. Set contains 31 pcs each cost less than 9$. I am open for communications, I don't make a lot of money on it. I wanna help you with your broken plastics, and it helps me restore my machines.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:A justification to buy these is that the licensed company doesn't offer them for sale and the need is there. I would probably get them if needed, but the price? That is a bit too high I think.
I got both slings and the ez mart plastics for 52 dollars shipped. I didn't think that too bad, honestly.
Quoted from Da-Shaker:This is what I'm using. I think it's the correct solder. The flux helps me smooth things out and seems easier. I also use a non adjustable Weller iron. The flux has probably helped me because I'm still learning.
Looks right....rosin core is for electronics. Keep practicing....don't be afraid to hold the heat on a joint...have to make sure everything takes the solder.
Quoted from gcmess:Looks right....rosin core is for electronics. Keep practicing....don't be afraid to hold the heat on a joint...have to make sure everything takes the solder.
Sometimes, when the ball goes behind the TV to start a mode, it takes the game a good 4 or 5 full seconds to realize the ball is back there and start the mode. Happening more frequently lately. Anyone ever experience this? Is a switch failing? It always EVENTUALLY starts the mode, but sometimes it takes a good 4 or 5 seconds.
Quoted from moonduckie78:Sometimes, when the ball goes behind the TV to start a mode, it takes the game a good 4 or 5 full seconds to realize the ball is back there and start the mode. Happening more frequently lately. Anyone ever experience this? Is a switch failing? It always EVENTUALLY starts the mode, but sometimes it takes a good 4 or 5 seconds.
Yes likely switch issue. Roll a ball in there is test mode, see if it registers consistently.
So hanging out Christmas Day, brother-in-law playing TSPP, comes up from the basement and says, “got a ball jam”. Go down to a couch multi-ball all jammed up at #19 upper right eject. Coil is not firing. Clear the jam and still no luck. Noticed the Left and right slingshot and garage door are down. Change the F7 fuse (20V DC Low power coils) and we are in business. Later on after everyone is gone, I notice that Flash lamp #25 is stuck on? (Flash: Itchy). Power down the machine and the flash lamp slowly dims out. It matches the 20V LED light on the I/O board in terms of fade out after power down. It was fine before the fuse fix. Looking at the I/O Power driver Schematic but kinda rusty on reading these prints. Traces to J6 Q25 Bridge 2? Is the rectifier toast?
After taking the picture and writing this bulb #25 is out. I don’t want to damage anything else. Thought I would share to help with my next move.
Quoted from MG7322:So hanging out Christmas Day, brother-in-law playing TSPP, comes up from the basement and says, “got a ball jam”. Go down to a couch multi-ball all jammed up at #19 upper right eject. Coil is not firing. Clear the jam and still no luck. Noticed the Left and right slingshot and garage door are down. Change the F7 fuse (20V DC Low power coils) and we are in business. Later on after everyone is gone, I notice that Flash lamp #25 is stuck on? (Flash: Itchy). Power down the machine and the flash lamp slowly dims out. It matches the 20V LED light on the I/O board in terms of fade out after power down. It was fine before the fuse fix. Looking at the I/O Power driver Schematic but kinda rusty on reading these prints. Traces to J6 Q25 Bridge 2? Is the rectifier toast?
After taking the picture and writing this bulb #25 is out. I don’t want to damage anything else. Thought I would share to help with my next move.
Flash lamp stuck on points to a bad transistor.
Quoted from Beatnik-Filmstar:It's a damn great game, but coming soon to a Craigslist near you* : One loved and simultaneously despised TSPP. It's time to take a load of pics and place the ad. Whatever I get to replace it is going to be a fast and mean bastard of a game. I want something that will kick my ass and be quick about it.
* If you live in the Twin Cities.
You've 100% taken the words right out of my mouth and I have this exact same thought every single day. I honestly can't wait to replace it with something else, I just have no idea what to replace it with because I have had or own nearly every machine that I have ever wanted. My ultimate plan is to hit as many shows as I can in 2018 and play as many machines as possible. Doing that will solidify my decision. There just has to be something else out there for me to fall in love with.
Quoted from Spelunk71:I think that was my issue. The third try soldering the garage/treehouse ramp switch seems to have worked! It's kind of a pain keeping everything in place, but getting good contact initially and heating the hell out of everything before applying the solder did the trick. Any tips to keep the clamps/clips from sticking to the solder? Amazon sells a tungsten pick that they claim will not stick, but I haven't tried it.
I have never heard of or used a tungsten pick....could give a shot.
Here's what I remember from my solder 101 class. Strip and tin the wires....this can be a little tricky because the older wire (rubber insulation) will melt and run up the wire so strip it short and trim as needed. Also the older wire doesn't like to take solder sometimes due to the coating on the wire...may have to scrape it a little and then twist it. After wires are tinned...bend and place on the terminal or lug, add some solder to the tip of you iron, hold it on the joint, you will see the solder start to flow, add some solder to the joint keeping the iron in place and the solder will flow to everything....couple extra seconds and done.
Quoted from moonduckie78:Sometimes, when the ball goes behind the TV to start a mode, it takes the game a good 4 or 5 full seconds to realize the ball is back there and start the mode. Happening more frequently lately. Anyone ever experience this? Is a switch failing? It always EVENTUALLY starts the mode, but sometimes it takes a good 4 or 5 seconds.
Having the same issue....switch test good in diagnostics. Gave it a little more bend so the ball would contact it better. Some improvement but still not 100%. I'll try a little more bend....see what that does. May end up just replacing it and see what that does.
Quoted from sohchx:You've 100% taken the words right out of my mouth and I have this exact same thought every single day. I honestly can't wait to replace it with something else, I just have no idea what to replace it with because I have had or own nearly every machine that I have ever wanted. My ultimate plan is to hit as many shows as I can in 2018 and play as many machines as possible. Doing that will solidify my decision. There just has to be something else out there for me to fall in love with.
That's how I feel about my POTC....lol
Quoted from gcmess:That's how I feel about my POTC....lol
I mean dont get me wrong, TSPP is an absolutely outstanding game. I wanted one so badly for years because I am a simpsons super fan and I had played it a few times, so I knew how good it was and had to at least give ownership a try. After years of looking for a super nice one I had finally found it on here and made the 9 hr round trip to get. I got it home and have had one great game on it in 8 months. It's so frustratingly difficult!!! All of the work and time that I put into getting it is another reason why its been hard to let it go to a new home. It plays almost identically to my Fishtails. If you get caught between the slings you're toast ....... side drain, side drain, side drain, side drain
Quoted from sohchx:I mean dont get me wrong, TSPP is an absolutely outstanding game. I wanted one so badly for years because I am a simpsons super fan and I had played it a few times, so I knew how good it was and had to at least give ownership a try. After years of looking for a super nice one I had finally found it on here and made the 9 hr round trip to get. I got it home and have had one great game on it in 8 months. It's so frustratingly difficult!!! All of the work and time that I put into getting it is another reason why its been hard to let it go to a new home. It plays almost identically to my Fishtails. If you get caught between the slings you're toast ....... side drain, side drain, side drain, side drain
Wow....Fish Tales and TSPP play the same? That was going to be my next purchase....if I found one.
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:I adjusted my side drain to make it a little easier. It was frustrating.
I have had the machines posts set up in every configuration and it still does it.
Quoted from gcmess:Wow....Fish Tales and TSPP play the same? That was going to be my next purchase....if I found one.
Mine do lol. My FT is absolutely brutal and yet another game thats outstanding, yet I hate it.
Quoted from PSU14:Looking for some repair advice. DMD went completely out, with an audible noise. Rest of the game and sounds continue to function normal. Fuse F1 for the display power supply board was blown. Fuse was replaced, blew, rinse and repeat. No obvious damage to the display power supply board, but I haven’t started with the multi meter. Any ideas where to start? I am green to pinball repair so I’m sorry if this is an obvious fix.
So I started troubleshooting today. I removed the display controller board to get a better look at the dot matrix PCB, found a blown capacitor next to the power wiring harness (see pictures). Now for the noob questions...
- Can I replace this cap? A quick search on dmd repair was discouraging.
- Is this cap the problem causing the blown fuse or are both the cap and fuse a symptom of something I haven’t found yet?
- If I can’t repair the DMD, what else should I investigate before replacing it, to ensure I don’t blow a brand new one?
Thanks everyone for the help
Now is a great time for a Colordmd. But, try replacing the cap and see if that remedies the problem first.
Just added the Pinstadiums to my TSPP. I put in the Coin Taker Premium Non ghosting LED Kit first. Looked great but it was still a tad dark in some areas. I mostly added it for the interactive UV Flashers that go off with the factory flashers. Makes the game so much more interactive. Lots more upgrades to put in. Just wanted to share my experience with Pinstadiums in this game.
Need to fine tune the brightness and color setting but I just wanted to show you guys a few options.
Quoted from ASOA:Back in the club. Working on this beauty. Will post pics when completed.
Bought a stock home use only 2 weeks ago and she is going through some changes.
Nice topper!!! going to be a beauty.....
Quoted from sohchx:I mean dont get me wrong, TSPP is an absolutely outstanding game. I wanted one so badly for years because I am a simpsons super fan and I had played it a few times, so I knew how good it was and had to at least give ownership a try. After years of looking for a super nice one I had finally found it on here and made the 9 hr round trip to get. I got it home and have had one great game on it in 8 months. It's so frustratingly difficult!!! All of the work and time that I put into getting it is another reason why its been hard to let it go to a new home. It plays almost identically to my Fishtails. If you get caught between the slings you're toast ....... side drain, side drain, side drain, side drain
I had a great game yesterday
It did take a while. Didn't beat AI but did get pretzel, scratchies revenge, secret stash, daredevil mania.... Whew.
Quoted from ASOA:I put in the Coin Taker Premium Non ghosting LED Kit first.
I was just about to pull the trigger on the Comet Pinball LED kit for my TSPP. Just wondering why you chose the Coin Taker kit. I was looking at both kits and not seeing the difference, other than price.
Anyone have any tips/recommendations? Thx.
Quoted from AAAV8R:I was just about to pull the trigger on the Comet Pinball LED kit for my TSPP. Just wondering why you chose the Coin Taker kit. I was looking at both kits and not seeing the difference, other than price.
Anyone have any tips/recommendations? Thx.
The coin taker premium non ghosting kit is wayyyyyy better. Trust me I have done them both and I only use Coin Taker from now on. I have done so many of coin takers sets and they are by far brighter and overall much better quality. Lots of stuff I bought from comet does not work properly. Spent so much money in specialty bulbs and very disappointed. Just tried them again last week and still bad results. there super bright leds are not bright at all very expensive and poor quality.
Order Cointakers set if doing TSPP but order a few extra white flasher bulbs I think for flashers they should be white and let the plastic change the color. Makes it brighter and more vibrant.
This is just my opinion. I'm sure there are plenty of happy customers from comet. (I'm just not one of them)
Never want to bash anyone that is why I stated there are alot of happy comet customers. I myself just had some quality issues. I could of had bad luck every time I ordered. Who knows? My kit that I posted pictures of is from Coin Taker. And I'm very pleased.
All is good in the world of pinball.
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