Alright I bought one off Amazon. If will be here by Sunday.

If anyone looks at the schematic the GI doesn't go through much on the Power IO board besides a few fuses. What else would impact this? Could it be the transformer or something with my line in? Any suggestions on things I can measure/test?

Just curious, and no offense to the guy, but has anyone actually ordered and received stuff from the guy in Russia that sells the plastics?
Also I was wondering if anyone is making a ramp set or single pieces of the orange plastic ramps?
Thanks! Mike

Having an issue with my game and looking for ideas. Sometimes but not every time, the game thinks there is a ball locked in the couch when there isn't. I've checked the switches in the couch and they seem ok. Didn't check with meter yet, but they click and none are stuck down. Any ideas? Thanks mike

I think there is a setting to carry over ball locks in the menu have you tried messing with that?

Just bought the Kwik-E-Mart decal and was wondering if most people install this over the existing decal, or remove the existing decal and install them new one?

If you remove the original decal what have you found to be the easiest way (ie least messy)?
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Yes I do know about that setting and I have it so they never carry over. At the end of the game they all come out. Thanks for the reply!

Someone....GOTG potientially for your TSPP..c'maaaan. I'll even throw in a mouth kiss.

Award lock mystery award? Can you recreate the issue with the glass off?

So my Kill-A-Watt came in. What should I be looking at? Amps, Watts? What would be considered out of normal that it would be effecting the other devices in my room as well as causing the GI to dim?

There is a thread on pinside where someone ordered and got them and compared them. Decent quality if I remember the thread correctly. The guy who makes them has also posted on here. You are safe to order them just use PayPal and don’t gift - do a normal transaction.

I just installed mine over the existing decal.

I bought a few pieces from the Russian, and they were great quality, so I went back and ordered some more. They are clearly reproductions, but they are well made and I dare say almost look BETTER than the printing method used on the original pieces I was replacing.

Thanks!

Hi all,

Just posted a complete NOS ramp set and NOS clearcoated playfields (from High End Pins) in the classifieds..

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/48864
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/48866

My vuk switch in the garage keeps bending and not working. Anyone know exactly which switch to replace and where to get it? I know it's the horseshoe looking blade, but didn't know if they come in different sizes. Thanks

This one?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=197

Just looked it up in the TSPP manual. That's the one.

Out of curiosity, how far is the garage door supposed to open?
Mine opens enough for the ball to get through no problems but I cannot see into the garage, my guess is the angle is about 30 degrees

That sounds about right.

Well Ive officially joined the club. Decided to go with tspp over an afmr. Very fun game, only started to scratch the surface of what this pin has to offer. Thanks for all the input and comments. Cheers!

Thanks guys. I got one coming. Is this a common problem on tspp? I've only owned mine since early summer.

Those fork switches suck. They commonly have to be adjusted.

I've been meaning to replace mine as it stopped registering, but I hadn't really considered that it might need adjusting... can anyone briefly describe how that is done?

Push the fork down and bend the end of it up slightly. It's better to replace them, though. They aren't that expensive, pinball life sells them.

Cool, thanks. I picked one up a few years ago when someone suggested they'd be harder to get down the road, so I have one at the ready if adjusting doesn't help...

They certainly do, I need to fix my Itchy and Scratchy one. It registers every time during a switch test, yet playing the game it mostly doesn't. The ball finder fires the ball up and then it activates ok, which is fine but not when a bonus clock is ticking down!

Should I get an led ocd gizmo ($50) or the full led ocd ($130) to fix my tspp led ghosting? Are the extra features worth the money?

Unless I’m mistaken the gizmo is GI light related only whereas the full device is designed to make sure your controlled lights retain the fade effects and don’t ghost. So I don’t think the Gizmo is a substitute for trying to make TSPP look and operate normally with LEDs in the controlled lights.

I presume your ghosting is on the controlled lights right?

Oh damn I guess I got some bad Intel. Damn 130 is a lot of cash when I could probably fix it with a handful of comets.

Here is the thing - are you trying to have the game look as intended (fade effects etc) or just not ghost. That is what this product does. It makes the fading effects and the game look more original.

If you just want your existing LEDs to not ghost then buy some of the premium non ghosting LEDs.

I tried the non-ghosting Comets first but ended up getting the OCD board afterwards. Trust me, the difference is night and day. My recommendation would be to save the "non-ghosting" money and get whatever normal LEDs you want but the OCD board is a must have. I didn't get the GI board so I can't speak to what it brings but my light show was an epileptic fit without OCD.

I would highly recommend the LED OCD board with this title. I installed one in my game, and was thrilled with the results. As others have pointed out, it's not just about eliminating ghosting. It gets rid of that blinkety effect that you normally get with LEDs, and it smooths everything out. If you want to get really "OCD", it also allows you to custom set the fade characteristics and brightness levels of every controlled lamp. It's a really amazing mod!

OCD is definitely a must have in TSPP. Day One upgrade for me when I bought this title. You can ALWAYS tell right away when someone doesn’t have it.

i don't have it on mine and don't feel I need it. I have no ghosting issues and the fading effects seem fine. I used CT frosted non ghosting bulbs. For LOTR it was very different for some reason. Lots of ghosting, same bulbs. I have the ocd board and like it for that game.

How do you guys feel about the Gizmo for GI lighting/flashers along with the LED OCD board? I’m in the process of converting mine to LEDs with the Comet kit and would appreciate any thoughts.

Gi is on all the time, why would you need anything for It?

I think it’s for the flashers.

I did not LED my flashers. Honestly didn’t feel it needed it and I like the fade effects when the sirens go off for multi ball.

Sorry, but it does not do anything for flashers, only GI. I don't know about TSPP in particular, but I designed it to allow the GI to ramp on and off when the relay is turned on and off. Some games do this rapidly, causing a distracting flashing GI.

Thanks for the clarification.

yes, baywatch is one of those games, i don't believe that TSPP is.

I don't own one, but I think it should be mentioned regarding LEDOCD.

If you know you're buying one, and haven't LED'd your game yet - buy standard LEDs - not non-ghosting ones. The LEDOCD is more effective with standard LEDs. Save some money on the bulbs, and get an improved experience.

Side note - I have no idea if the difference is really noticeable to the naked eye. Herg? The charts on your site are cool, but I'm assuming that x axis is some really small unit of time. How noticeable is a 0-40% jump versus 0-6-12-1-8-24-30 etc?

i didn't get the Gizmo but i did put insanely bright COB strobes in my flashers... they're like flash bulbs going off. i love it but i'm sure somebody would hate how stupid fucking bright they are.

Well, if you invite Steve Bowden over, he’ll be sure to pull out his sunglasses!!

I have to admit, I chuckled the first time I saw Steve do that in a tournament. Especially as there was another player that day who had a headlamp he put on every time it was his turn. He said it helped him keep track of the ball...

With default settings it's about 50 ms per step if you're going from off to on or vice versa. I have had my wife install a non-ghosting bulb in one location and a standard bulb in another, and I was able to identify them by sight, through an insert. I would guess that I'm pickier than most people, though.

In a couple of cases, like Spider-Man, there are bulbs that stay lit at a dimmed value, and with those it prevents you from being able to use those low brightness values. A dimly lit bulb won't look dim in that case because the lowest you'd be able to set it would be 40% or you'd see flicker any time the game used the dim lighting.

I am looking at picking up a HUO TSPP with just under 300 games played. It is completely stock with no mods or LEDS. Just curious on what you think its worth. The values between here, pinpedia and Boston pinball are all over the place.

Is it me or does EVERY “HUO” Simpson’s have just under 300 games played? Is that just the number that the seller thinks is believable?

To the OP - a great condition version of this game top of the mark is in the $4,500 range. You should assume that the game isn’t HUO and that if the game has latest software the 300 game counter is meaningless as well. Buy only on condition.