Wow. Never knew such a feature existed!

Once before going out to dinner, I started a game while my wife was getting ready. I was having a great game when she called out, "Let's go!" I opened the coindoor and paused the game the entire time I was gone to dinner. I continued the game when I got home a few hours later. Of course I had lost my mojo and didn't finish as well as I had hoped.

yep, next option is to change Q16 anyway, i've tested voltage and it's ok, but may be repetition is not goot..

I just got my tspp and am wondering about opininions on LED or LCD for a color dmd on this game?

LCD in hires is how mine is set up.
The LED is too bright in my opinion.

Anyone try a pinsound board in a tspp?

Same. Looks amazing.

Agree LED is too bright.
But I keep my LCD in XL-DOTS mode. Just feels right.

I have one in mine. No more hum and sounds better too

Been in 'the club' for a few months. Upgrading the DMD and LEDs (including the OCD board) is all you really NEEEEED to do to this game! Sparky's TV mod is nice, though.

If you skip on the LED OCD board, make sure you get non-ghosting LEDs, because this one ghosts pretty bad without them.

I opted to go with the cheaper LEDs, and bought the OCD board. It looks great.

I don't know about ALL of the I&S episodes...that little device has some memory limitations. Talk to Sparky , I'm sure he has more info.

Naturally do what makes you happy. But since you asked for opinions: You list are great options. Be careful with the extra toys on the play field. I know I'll risk hate for speaking my opinion in this thread but so many people load too many ugly tacky toys on this game it looks terrible. Many don't fit the artwork style theme. Others look great. Choose wisely.

Which LED kit do you guys think is the best—Comet, Cointaker, other? Is LED OCD with cheaper LEDs better than just going with non-ghosting and skipping the LED OCD? Thanks for your thoughts.

I bought color matching non-ghosting cointakers when i did a tspp conversion... didnt like it.

Got the LEDOCD board and cheaper color matched leds from cointaker that worked best for me

Tspp has lots of fading in and out effects esp in attract mode. LEDOCD just works.

Am using a pin2dmd led and it looks great. Has nice contrast. See the remarks on to bright but with pin2dmd you can adjust brightness. Assume colordmd can do this to? Anyway, I tuned it down a lot and don’t find it to bright according to my taste. However, LCD gives you more opportunities (at the cost of less contrast) So if you go the colordmd route I think I Would go the LCD route.

Wanna see how mine looks? See

LED OCD all the way with this game. With all the fading effects this game does it's a must in my opinion. Color matched inserts from coin taker and all frosted whites for the GI. You won't be disappointed.

As for the itchy and scratchy episodes for Sparkys TV mod, I created a 21 minute long compilation of a bunch of episodes. PM me for info on that if you want.

Same here, exactly. Got non-ghosting from Comet and while they brightened up the game, the light show was a mess. LED OCD brought it back and it looks great but if I had it to do over I would have gone with the cheaper "ghosting" LEDs to begin with.

I'm not sure if I have them all on it but I've got at least a half-hour long loop of them on mine. One of my nieces spends more time watching the TV than playing the game.

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PM sent.

Thanks for all the helpful input re: LEDs.

One other question for WackyBrakke or anyone else who installed the Pinsound board: are you using it with upgraded speakers or does it improve things with the stock speakers? What would give the best bang for the buck?

IMHO the PI-SIM mod is a must have, if your CPU board supports it. Really cuts down on the flipper noise:
http://www.flippp.fr/pisim.php?lg=en

...and so is the speaker hum fix if your game is afflicted:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-speaker-humbuzz-fixed

I have extra parts if you need a set made, or sed6 might still be making them.

I had my pin2dmd partially colored before Vitaliy finished his work but only just last week got a chance to load his project and now I'm thinking I may need to update my display ROM to 5.0 because it only looks right about half the time. It looks incredible when it's right though so definitely worth figuring out...

If you go with Comet, the Op-Max GI bulbs are nothing short of astonishing. Also, as bright as possible color matched regular inserts with ledocd is the way to go. It works flawlessly.

My experience was to color match except for yellow. I was happier with whites for those inserts.

The first of several add-on's brought home from the Pinball Life open house. Taking some liberties with the intended theme, but I don't care, I thought it was pretty freakin' cool.

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Just finished installing my Comet Pinball TSPP non ghosting LED kit. I'm incredibly happy with the way it turned out and wanted to share in case anyone was looking for a kit. The pictures on my phone really don't do it justice and it's super hard to snap a pic with everything lit up. Again, I highly recommend this kit to anyone looking to brighten up their machine.

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Good evening. Just joined the club....again. When I power on my machine it automatically goes into "looking for pinballs" if balls are on the couch. I don't recall my last machine doing this. I have five balls in the game and all trough and couch switches work. What else should I look at?

If the game is only looking for balls when they are locked in the couch, then it must be one of the switches up there. The switches may work when you manually test them, but are you sure they are all registering when a ball is sitting on them?

Normal behavior when powered up with the hold couch balls feature enabled.

Joined the club about a month ago and absolutely love this pin. Near mint 2004 run. Everything worked great. A few mods later (including LEDs and Cliffy ramp protectors), the ball keeps getting stuck in the garage ramp (strong enough to ramp over the orbit but doesn't make it to upper play field VUK. I've read in other posts that the metal ramp guide (515-7271-00) will pinch tight and needs to be bent open a bit. I've had the upper PF off more times than I can count and bent this open a bit but still same problem (I even removed the ramp protector but no luck). Did I not bend it enough? Has anyone had this problem and found another solution? PS - the flippers certainly feel strong enough and again - never had this issue before messing with this area to install LEDs on Upper PF and the ramp protector...

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There probably is something on the lower side of the upper pf blocking the ball path. Check that the plastic protector on the lower side of the upper playfield is secured properly.

Yeah I agree, probably wires or something from upper play field blocking the balls path. When installing the upper play field the slack need to go down under the lower play field as much as possible. I had to re zip tie it afterwards to keep it out of the way down there too. Good luck.

D-Gottlieb Rickwh Thanks guys for the quick response! I cleaned up the wires (which was certainly necessary) but still was sticking. Boat it was a screw sticking down too far from the upper play field but ended up being the screw and spacer in the top left of the upper play field. I removed it completely and now it’s working perfectly. This screw seemed to serve no purpose at all??? Hopefully this post will save people some time in the future. Possible 2004 run issue? I don’t know but glad it’s fixed.

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I don't have my machine to reference that piece. Can you post a pick where it came from?

hi guys, Q16 changed, and the issue is still there.. need some help to get my right flipper working :/
So to sum up :
- my right main flipper is weak, only this one
- it raises when i press the button, but i can put it back down with my finger, that's not feasible with the other flippers
- i've switched left and right coil+diode, the issue stays on right, removing a coil+diode source
- I've changed Q16 for a IRL540, issue is still there

I'm really out of ideas.. anyone ??
In game, i barely can reach the garage with right flip, stuck at 91M

That flame polishing job looks awesome. Bet that took some grapes.

Benetnath: did you compare voltages on your strong and weak side with and without EOS activation? You can start tracing it and see if you're losing it in line somewhere or something if it's not a problem with the boards or anything post coil.

This guy has a broken right flipper and he still scores better than my best game ever on this machine.

I hang my head in shame...

I did and did not see differences on activated coils, but the DC reading is not what i expected with around 6.2V on both left / right.
Shall i unsolder one wire to get a 50v value or change my multimeter..

I'm not sure if these flippers switches are eos open or closed but make sure to get the measurement at the eos if that is where your flipper is failing (if I recall correctly)

He's still playing.

I would check your EOS switch. I had the exact same problem with my LOTR. You description is exactly like mine posted on the LOTR forum. And I did almost the exact same thing with transistor replacement and swapping coils etc. Chased that rabbit for days. Felt kind of dumb when I saw the EOS wasn't making contact.

EOS have been shunt by the previous owner, as the switch were broken. And i've tested open and close. Same issue.. They are correctly reported in the diag..

Did you notice your pinblade says "The Android's Dangeon"?

RussM

The only thing that I think makes it not an EOS issue but a voltage issue is that he can push the flipper back down with his finger, or by having the ball hit it. That's not normal behavior even when the EOS is functioning properly, so it would have to be power related, right?

So.....was looking at schematic. All the flippers use the same 50V, each one with its own fuse. Q11 thru Q16 are the transisitors that fire and drive to voltage to gnd. All that seems to be working....yes? Could always jumper the voltage from a working flipper to the non working flipper.