(Topic ID: 50801)

TSPP Owners Club..... Members Only!!!


By kwiKimart

7 years ago



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There are 5213 posts in this topic. You are on page 39 of 105.
#1901 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

I installed the Flipper Fidelity interactive back box lighting today and love it. However, the glare is pretty bad off the glass towards the top of the play field.

Have you tried the invisiglass from JJP or PDI glass? I was thinking of trying that as I have the same issue.

#1902 3 years ago
Quoted from emkay:

Just installed, still need to config.

I'd be interested to see the difference between this and ColorDMD. I have the latter and love it!

#1903 3 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

Have you tried the invisiglass from JJP or PDI glass? I was thinking of trying that as I have the same issue.

Have not installed Invisiglass on TSPP yet but a friend also told me that would help. I was able to turn down the single color white lights on the board and that helped with the glare. It wasn't cheap but this interactive lighting addition was money well spent for this game. If you've got money burning a hole in your pocket check out this addition from Flipper Fidelity.

#1904 3 years ago
Quoted from JimB:

Have you tried the invisiglass from JJP or PDI glass? I was thinking of trying that as I have the same issue.

I have had both invisaglass and PDI. Honestly I think PDI is slightly better because it has a darker purple color as opposed to the green color in the invisaglass - but it's also much more expensive. I can really only tell the difference when they are side by side. Invisaglass does a good enough job and I got a DMD glare guard that helps too.

I've bought invisaglass direct form Jack at his open house in NJ. They sometimes run sales buy 1 get 1 1/2 off and no shipping.

#1905 3 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

I'll probably get downvoted for this but I really don't like LEDs in this game. It is a very bright game with incandescent bulbs. The timing of the light shows is wrong with LEDs and using colored LEDs as GI really looks wrong to me. I know the arguments for LEDs (life, heat, etc.) but I'm not a fan of using them in games that weren't designed for them. I do use LEDs in some games like in Pop Bumpers that don't flash. Anyone agree with me (there's GOT to be at least one person)?

Yeah colored LEDs can make certain pins look like a glowing clown shoe. You really need an LED OCD board to control flicker, ghosting and fade. I have one, but am deciding on using it in TSPP or SM.

#1906 3 years ago

Yep love the LED OCD boards. I only like LEDs for their reduced power and reduced heat feature and generally try and get a look in GI that matches bulbs. I really like Coin Takers Retro warm white 44/47s. Inserts I do like brighter but I do not always color match, it depends on if I want the pin to feel stock and older or the theme as some I will spruce up with colors when it fits like my STTNG having Green flashers in the borg ship.

#1907 3 years ago
Quoted from Guinnesstime:

Yeah colored LEDs can make certain pins look like a glowing clown shoe. You really need an LED OCD board to control flicker, ghosting and fade. I have one, but am deciding on using it in TSPP or SM.

I have both OCD GI and OCD LED boards in my STTNG. Makes a huge difference! I should get them for TSPP because this machine uses a lot of fading effects.

#1908 3 years ago
Quoted from BOBCADE:

I really like Coin Takers Retro warm white 44/47s. Inserts I do like brighter but I do not always color match

Agree on the warm coin takers. I did a Big Guns in those warms a couple of years and it looked great. I find most yellow LEDs suck. I use frosted white for yellow inserts.

The 5630 super flashers from comet pinball are really nice. I just put them in TSPP and they look great. Not too bright that it blinds you.
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/10smd5630t10metal.htm

Also the Op-Max GI's are amazing but expensive. I put them in key spots like the slings and back top of the playfield.
http://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1836.htm

#1909 3 years ago
Quoted from Rferullo:

I have had both invisaglass and PDI. Honestly I think PDI is slightly better because it has a darker purple color as opposed to the green color in the invisaglass - but it's also much more expensive. I can really only tell the difference when they are side by side. Invisaglass does a good enough job and I got a DMD glare guard that helps too.

My thoughts exactly. PDI is definitely better when compared side by side, but Invisiglass gets the job done.

#1910 3 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

My thoughts exactly. PDI is definitely better when compared side by side, but Invisiglass gets the job done.

Are you guys agreeing that PDI or Invisiglass will both help reduce the glare off of the much brighter back box lighting when the Flipper Fidelity Interactive panel is installed?

#1911 3 years ago

I want invisiglass but cant justify the cost. I have good control over my room lighting and just add a strip of duct tape across the fluorescent back box tube.

#1912 3 years ago
Quoted from Rferullo:

I find most yellow LEDs suck. I use frosted white for yellow inserts.

Agree, I put yellow OpMax on my yellow inserts for TSPP and will be taking them out.

I used a few of these (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/opmax.htm) colored OpMax LEDs for my inserts and notice they say "GI." Are these bulbs not supposed to be used for inserts? If they aren't, what are the reasons?

Lastly, recommendations on the following (update: assume cost doesn't matter):

1. What is the best warm-white LED for GI?
2. What is the best colored LED for inserts?
3. What is the best warm-white LED for inserts?

Appreciate your input!

#1913 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Are you guys agreeing that PDI or Invisiglass will both help reduce the glare off of the much brighter back box lighting when the Flipper Fidelity Interactive panel is installed?

Both products will absolutely help reduce the intensity of the reflection.

#1914 3 years ago

Yah, but the cost of the mod, plus another $300 to reduce the glare from the mod? That's crazy steep. Otherwise a $20 DMD glare guard would do for this game.

Quoted from gweempose:

Both products will absolutely help reduce the intensity of the reflection.

#1915 3 years ago

$20 DMD glare guard is the best mod ever! Plus you can take it from pin to pin. Same with the invisaglass but it's a little more then $20

#1916 3 years ago
Quoted from Rferullo:

$20 DMD glare guard is the best mod ever! Plus you can take it from pin to pin. Same with the invisaglass but it's a little more then $20

Am I right that the DMD glare guards won't help with translite glare at all?

#1917 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Am I right that the DMD glare guards won't help with translite glare at all?

Correct. I have seen some translite material designed to make the translite clearer and those may potentially help with glare as well but the site was German based and I never ordered one.

#1918 3 years ago
Quoted from jalpert:

Yah, but the cost of the mod, plus another $300 to reduce the glare from the mod? That's crazy steep.

Yep. I never said it was cheap, just effective. Of course, you're getting other benefits as well. The glare reduction makes the entire playfield look more crisp.

#1919 3 years ago

If anybody in the NYC metro area is looking, I have a really nice one I might be letting go of.

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#1920 3 years ago

Garage Door Tech Help Question:
9 out of 10 times the garage opens just fine but sometimes it opens 1/2 way. I have cleaned the long white plunger and installed a new coil sleeve but it still happens. If I catch the ball and wait a sec the door closes and then reopens fully.

Any suggestions on how to get it a little more reliable? TIA!

#1921 3 years ago

Remove the plunger and inspect the end of it for wear. It may have a flat spot causing it to hang up. You can try smoothing the end down, or replace the plunger. If there's nothing wrong with the plunger, bend the bracket slightly so that the plunger pushes a bit further on the door or at a better angle to reliably open it. I had the same issue and new plunger solved it permanently because the old one has a flat spot on the end.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-7223-00

#1922 3 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Remove the plunger and inspect the end of it for wear. It may have a flat spot causing it to hang up. You can try smoothing the end down, or replace the plunger. If there's nothing wrong with the plunger, bend the bracket slightly so that the plunger pushes a bit further on the door or at a better angle to reliably open it. I had the same issue and new plunger solved it permanently because the old one has a flat spot on the end.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-7223-00

Thanks. I did some digging today and found that there was a recall on that coil and to replace it with a stronger one (Stern 090-5036-OT/24-940) I doubt this has the stronger coil. It had 2.01 code for goodness sake!!!

#1923 3 years ago

I'm running the original coil after concerns about the stronger one burning up. I'm still tempted to try but have found the issue to have more to do with the coil sleeve and adjustments so far.

Still have to fiddle with it from time to time though so definitely not ideal.

#1924 3 years ago

Yeah, my coil was replaced and still had issues. Turned out to be the plunger... but you can try the higher rated coil too.

#1925 3 years ago

Installed today my LedOCd board !!! Much better

#1926 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Would appreciate some technical input. When the ball is exiting from behind the TV (on the upper play field) and you attempt to use the upper right flipper to hit the ball into the couch it's making a crazy loud buzzing sound. From what I've read it sounds like coils typically do this when something is off. The flipper is working at full strength. Think I may have read somewhere that it could be vibration between the coil and the sleeve. Has anybody ever experienced this issue? Any ideas or direction appreciated. Cheers, Craig

Alright, guys. I can't take this sound anymore and want to fix it..it's stupid loud on my machine. Thanks to your replies, I think the issue is with the flimsy metal bracket that is used to attach coil to TV. Does anybody have a recommendation on the best way to fix this? Any links to parts appreciated. Cheers, Craig

#1927 3 years ago

Same issue from last month?? Did you check your pin for the weld fix and install if it's missing?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-owners-club-members-only/page/36#post-3354835

#1928 3 years ago

Mav, no. That was the couch. This is the TV on the UPF.

#1929 3 years ago

Woooooosh! I saw "flimsy metal bracket" and missed "TV" altogether. Need to get some glasses, getting old..

So, on the TV release coil is the one making noise or the UPF right flipper? If the TV release coil, I'd make sure the plunger isn't upside down: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-tv-release-makes-a-buzzing-sound-when-a-ball-enters

...and if it's not that, try cleaning the coil / sleeve / and generally making sure things holding the coil are tight (so it can't vibrate around)? Mine does also make a decent "buzz" when it releases the ball, but it's only for a second... some noise from that coil is pretty normal, after all it's housed in a metal echo chamber.

#1930 3 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Woooooosh! I saw "flimsy metal bracket" and missed "TV" altogether. Need to get some glasses, getting old..
So, on the TV release coil is the one making noise or the UPF right flipper? If the TV release coil, I'd make sure the plunger isn't upside down: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tspp-tv-release-makes-a-buzzing-sound-when-a-ball-enters
...and if it's not that, try cleaning the coil / sleeve / and generally making sure things holding the coil are tight (so it can't vibrate around)? Mine does also make a decent "buzz" when it releases the ball, but it's only for a second... some noise from that coil is pretty normal, after all it's housed in a metal echo chamber.

It's definitely the TV coil. I will check the plunger to make sure. Although, if the plunger is upside down, doesn't it prevent the ball from clearing the plunger and feeding to the upper right flipper? Or not necessarily? I'm used to the game making a "humming" sound when the TV coil fires but this is a like deafening (and super annoying) buzz. I'll take a video and post. Is there no way to add a more substantial bracket to attach the coil to the TV?

#1931 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Is there no way to add a more substantial bracket to attach the coil to the TV?

No....

Its welded as part of the TV frame. They do get bent though, I would check to see if yours is bent upwards, if so, bend it back downwards to tighten up the coil slop.

#1932 3 years ago

Does anyone know the size coil sleeve that goes on the garage door coil? I couldn't find it in the manual.

#1933 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

It's definitely the TV coil. I will check the plunger to make sure. Although, if the plunger is upside down, doesn't it prevent the ball from clearing the plunger and feeding to the upper right flipper? Or not necessarily? I'm used to the game making a "humming" sound when the TV coil fires but this is a like deafening (and super annoying) buzz. I'll take a video and post. Is there no way to add a more substantial bracket to attach the coil to the TV?

Screwed around with the TV coil today. Bent the brackets so that the coil was nice and snug. Verified that coil does NOT make sound when firing from the diagnostics. Listen to the God awful sound this thing makes:

Here are pics of the coil. Couldn't figure out how to get the plunger out of the coil or remove the coil from the bracket. Can anybody tell if the plunger is in upside down or not?

IMG_3303 (resized).JPG

IMG_3304 (resized).JPG

#1934 3 years ago
Quoted from emkay:

Does anyone know the size coil sleeve that goes on the garage door coil? I couldn't find it in the manual.

Page 93 in the manual, original sleeve is 545-5076-01 with original coil as 26-1200. Upgraded coil is 24-940.

#1935 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Screwed around with the TV coil today. Bent the brackets so that the coil was nice and snug. Verified that coil does NOT make sound when firing from the diagnostics. Listen to the God awful sound this thing makes: » YouTube video
Here are pics of the coil. Couldn't figure out how to get the plunger out of the coil or remove the coil from the bracket. Can anybody tell if the plunger is in upside down or not?

If I remember correctly you should just be able to remove the E-ring and the plunger should come out. Refer to page 96 in your manual.

#1936 3 years ago
Quoted from mavantix:

Page 93 in the manual, original sleeve is 545-5076-01

Thanks man, I hate that silly manual.

#1937 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Screwed around with the TV coil today. Bent the brackets so that the coil was nice and snug. Verified that coil does NOT make sound when firing from the diagnostics. Listen to the God awful sound this thing makes: » YouTube video
Here are pics of the coil. Couldn't figure out how to get the plunger out of the coil or remove the coil from the bracket. Can anybody tell if the plunger is in upside down or not?

Which version of the code are you running?

#1938 3 years ago

Check out this place. Berg'n in Brooklyn

#1939 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Screwed around with the TV coil today. Bent the brackets so that the coil was nice and snug. Verified that coil does NOT make sound when firing from the diagnostics. Listen to the God awful sound this thing makes: » YouTube video
Here are pics of the coil. Couldn't figure out how to get the plunger out of the coil or remove the coil from the bracket. Can anybody tell if the plunger is in upside down or not?

My tspp would make that exact sound. Horrific. I tried zipties and pinball dead foam on the coil stop. It helpped a bit. Kinda a hack.

Rick

#1940 3 years ago

I just bought a TSPP from another pinsider. Gave me a deal since the exterior decals are in pretty bad shape (side and front). Where would you go to buy replacements if you can?

#1941 3 years ago
Quoted from ralphwiggum:

Which version of the code are you running?

Dumb question. Where do you find the version of code you are running? Tried to look in the menus but couldn't find it. Thanks guys. -- craig

#1942 3 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

My tspp would make that exact sound. Horrific. I tried zipties and pinball dead foam on the coil stop. It helpped a bit. Kinda a hack.
Rick

Thanks Rick. Do you have an explanation for why the sound is not made when testing the coil in Diagnostics? In diags it makes the faintest little click when firing the plunger. No buzzing at all.

#1943 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Dumb question. Where do you find the version of code you are running? Tried to look in the menus but couldn't find it. Thanks guys. -- craig

Change the game adjustment to slow boot and it will show on the dmd when you turn game on.

#1944 3 years ago

The game wasn't produced with decals, the art was screened onto the cab. There are no official replacement decals, they don't exist. There are some people selling bootleg decals, but they look bad as the characters in the back ground aren't shaded correctly. Unless the outside is a total mess, I would just leave it as is.

Quoted from atwong:

Where would you go to buy replacements if you can?

#1945 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Thanks Rick. Do you have an explanation for why the sound is not made when testing the coil in Diagnostics? In diags it makes the faintest little click when firing the plunger. No buzzing at all.

I dont have an explanation other than a guess that the way the game pulses the coil in coil test mode is different frequency/duration as the way it happens in game.

#1946 3 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

I dont have an explanation other than a guess that the way the game pulses the coil in coil test mode is different frequency/duration as the way it happens in game.

I put my finger on the brass center part of tp of coil and could stop it from vibrating and rattling. So thats why i tried putting some dead ball foam on it to stop the rattling...

#1947 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Dumb question. Where do you find the version of code you are running? Tried to look in the menus but couldn't find it. Thanks guys. -- craig

It is briefly displayed on the dmd at bootup.

#1948 3 years ago
Quoted from D-Gottlieb:

It is briefly displayed on the dmd at bootup.

Thanks. As Lermods pointed out above this only occurs if you disable "quick boot" from the Standard Adjustments menu. Mine was not disabled.

#1949 3 years ago
Quoted from Rickwh:

I put my finger on the brass center part of tp of coil and could stop it from vibrating and rattling. So thats why i tried putting some dead ball foam on it to stop the rattling...

Rick, thanks very much. Going to try your suggestions. -- Craig

#1950 3 years ago
Quoted from Cserold:

Thanks. As Lermods pointed out above this only occurs if you disable "quick boot" from the Standard Adjustments menu. Mine was not disabled.

So which version of the code are you running? I ask because the latest version of the code made some adjustments across the board to some of the coil power settings.

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