Yeah! It’s fun! And low risk, I can always put the original stuff back on it.

Awhile ago I tried the pink / blue combo and wasn’t disappointed.

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Ok, cool.

Matt.

Anyone try the precision pinball flippers?

Yes, I love them..but not on this title....but someday...they're picey,but the flippers shoot fine on this machine (mine anyway) so it will be a while...

They are the gold standard, for me. They've spoiled me, in fact. I really struggle with the lack of snappiness on JJP, etc.

Has anyone replaced the itchy and scratchy figures? They can be purchased on ebay, but the arms are not in the correct position, and the axe and hammer are not attached.

Are the arms movable? And just hot-glue the hammer and axe into the hands?

I purchased them, and the arms are movable.

Hello! New TSPP owner here. I’m having a problem with shooting the right orbit. A shot with some speed will hit the playfield ball guide, and launch the ball up onto the plastic cover above the orbit—crashing into the flasher up top. Too light of a shot will either deflect off the ball guide or the krusty spinner (can’t totally tell which). I’ve watched quite a few videos and don’t see anyone else with this specific problem. Anyone here experienced similar, or have thoughts on how to address?

I’ve searched this massive thread the best I can, apologies if it’s been covered before.

Photo shows ball guide, and the upper plastic cover where the ball ends up far too often!

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Deleted.

Let me see your where your flippers are set. If you want to hit outlanes with better consistency, drop your bat placement slightly. I set mine so that the guide hole is just above the bat.

On my game that plastic cover is reversed from yours and provides better coverage towards the spinner.

Yes! That seems to have done it! Thank you.

Adding simpsons to my collection in a few days. If you add Pinsound to it you lose all the cool callouts right? Worth the upgrade???

No, you don't lose the callouts if you add pinsound. In fact, there are multiple playlists available, including the default callouts and music. 100% worth the upgrade.

Someone more experienced can chime in here but I made the change, upgraded my speakers, sub and added a shaker.

You can keep stock sound but it does not sound ½ as good. The bit rate (experts can expand) is different. I have the 2 other sound codes but if I could do it all over again I would keep it stock. I’m sure I’m the minority.

.

Joined club today. Cabinet is nice. Going to do yellow powder coat job on everything for around $850. Nuclear railesxand hinges.

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Congrats! That's about 4 times what you should osy for powder coating. I have a local guy to me that will do it all for around $200. PM me if interested

I collaborated with scandell on his mix (see YouTube vid featuring that mix below), but I've been using Baptiste's mix lately.

Initially, it was a bit "busy" for my tastes, but I've come to love it. I'm still hear new callouts from time-to-time and it's very clear that Baptiste is a true fan of the Simpsons. Very good callout selection.

Curious which speakers you installed. I'm too much of a cheapass to buy one of the ready-made kits and most of the aftermarket shielded speakers I've seen are too deep would touch the boards). I've got the PinSound and an LED OCD board, so the backbox is pretty full.

I bought one of the kits

In the netherlands we got it at little over 7000 euros from a reseller he just got it from a private collector just that week. The cabinet was ok and somethings faded. It was routed but the playfield was very good and all led and pin2dmd installed so not a real bad price plus he transported the game from germany to the netherlands so that saved us a bit of a trip extra (europe prices are normally a bit higher than the us because of VAT 19-21% here) it was a nice price but we could have gotten a fresh pin (like jurassic park or something) one almost for the same price. But we just love the simpsons and yes it is a amazing pinball machine.

Now the same seller is selling a little better cabinet version voor 8250 but no extra's no led no pn2dmd.

So price are up still depending location of course it is a great pin still. We might get an extra one but that will be the rotating one every so often get a new one the simpsons will stay.

So working some some upgrades. added flanders to the pin to help a bit more with ball jumping out of the monorail but the washer solution works perfectly fine now. so no jumping but I got the flanders mini already to so it just needed to be added.

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Added rod of power and flaming moe the flashers are very very bright and it tones it down a bit.

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I have got the moe tavern playset modifying it so it will fit in the corner and updated the love machine with some proper leds and a animation.

It was just drilling out the fake lights (5mm drill used a wood drill bit with a nice point made is really easy) and just some 5mm red leds and 220ohm resistors and a arduino nano voor 5 euros. and some code that was the easy bit. solder everything together and done.

And my ledocd is finally come in. I needed to import the thing as getting here in europe was not really possible.

Anyone have a cliffy set they never installed and want to sell?

I hope you find one!

I'm trying to do the same thing with my new Aerosmith game... find someone with spare cliffy's. He is pretty backed up with orders right now.

September orders shipping now so three months!!!! Really needs help. I could so fix this business model and create a site that you can order. Take so much off his plate.

At this point I think he’d listen.

Like the toppers idea on earlier thread. $90 and about $30 in lighting and channels. Before pic before I make it beautiful in all yellow trim.

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Cool! Where did you get the Kang and Kodos?

Search kidrobot plush they make them.

I spoke to him about the backlog a couple of months ago when he warned me about the current delay time. I mentioned sites that'll take your CAD drawing and laser cut it in your material of choice. He said the real time sink is in the bending, which makes a lot of sense. He mentioned he's tried hiring out work before, and had to re-bend pieces that others had done. What he really needs is someone that knows how to use a sheet metal brake, and can work to his standards. It's unfortunate that although his kids are capable of doing the work they just aren't interested.

My company has a laser knife cutter so you put the leather on a table and with the computer you tell it what to cut out. Was $200,000 machine. Don’t think cliffy will invest that but could pound them out quick. Ours is for leather but sure they have thin metal ones.

His problem isn't in getting stuff cut, he already does laser cutting (not sure if he owns the equipment or sends it out). The problem is bending it all after it's cut. Some of his parts have some complex bends (I've done a little sheet metal work before), I'm not sure there is a machine that could bend all his various parts without retooling for each part type, and anything beyond a good brake would be prohibitively expensive for a one-man operation.

Oh, one FYI - his current "complete set" for TSPP is different than the older ones - he's added an outhole protector and a 2nd piece to the shooter eject. If you get an old set those may not be included.

Hi all.

I have officially lost all the parts that mount the skateboard to the underside of the metal bracket. Does anyone know the part number for those? also the post that sits at the rear of the bracket

Awesome thanks! Having trouble finding #4 buttonhead rivet, why are they needed?

it looks like it keeps the skateboard platform from coming too far forward...I took a look at mine, but can't easily see it...looks like one of those nylon pcb spacers...

So after all these years I finally replaced the glass with invisiglass. Huge noticeable difference.
Don’t know why I waited so long.
I still love this game!

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One of the most underrated "mods" you can do! I have either PDI or VooDoo glass on all of my machines and the difference is huge! Congrats.

So I added yellow t molding and I’m doing yellow powder coated trim and all metal inside plus coindoor. I have a decal around the speakers now but don’t like it so I’m thinking about doing what this guy did. Paint the inside wood white instead of black and then speaker panel yellow to match trim. I think that would really pop. Maybe white speaker grills.

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When I hit the ball into the garage, it doesn't detect the ball anymore. After a 10 seconds the find ball is triggered and it launches to upper play field. Any ideas on how to fix it?

You need to check your wiring or replace the Y-switch under the play field. It’s in the far left corner.

I believe the button rivet acts as a stop, so the skateboard doesn’t go to far back. If I remember correctly, it bumps into a V plastic on the play field.

Thank you! Will start looking into it.

Ok not sure what I'm looking at. I've done some simple modding and led swapping but not much work with wiring. I looked up y switch for simpsons on Marco and I'm not seeing what I expected. I see this little guy next to the eject assembly. Is that what you're talking about?

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If you look in the manual, there is a switch matrix chart with all the locations and part numbers.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5116-01

Glass is expensive but is worth it. I have Voodoo, Invisiglass or Magic Glass in all but one of my pins. Eventually will get one more Voodoo for that one.

If the wiring looks firmly soldered, then you’ll have to remove the coil assembly to get to the switch. Once the switch is out, you can put the game in switch test mode and see if it’s working. Sometimes the Y part of the switch just needs to be bent up. I’d recommend just buying a new one while your in there. That switch commonly goes bad. If you buy a new switch, make sure you replace the diode too (IN4004). It looks like Pinball Life has them in stock.

https://www.pinballlife.com/sternsegadata-east-vuk-vertical-up-kicker-fork-switch.html

Pinstadiums look beautiful on TSPP. Once Pinstadiums are installed there’s no need for Voodoo glass. The back box lights will disappear.

One other thing I’ve seen happen, is a small piece of the garage ramp breaks and gets jammed in that switch hole. This would prevent the switch from going down far enough to activate.

I do not need more lights. I take out all the ugly spotlights on the slings of all my pins. I have large fluorescent lights above the pins. I have bent plastic on the pins to get rid of the DMD glare.

The premium glass looks like no glass is on the pins.