I read this thread and also the pinwiki page when this is mention.
I like permanent solutions rather than clipping on potentiometers that can come lose and else.

It looks like I have the correct resistors installed (as per pinwiki) so I presume thet noise in this game is normal?

I want to achieve a 100% quiet game. I think I will get there once it is changed over to led and Pin2dmd, Although the dmd is very quiet for now.

Another thing, are there any mods that will help reduce glare on the glass? The backbox makes the game unplayable so I disconnected it.
I wish there was a “dim down” option when Starting a game

There are a few different companies who sell different versions of anti-reflective glass. I don't own any because they're expensive, but I've seen and played on games that have had them installed, and they work great.

I have the Voodoo glass on mine and it super sexy but I noticed something the other day. While cleaning it I saw little circular spots, I thought it was possibly beer being spit out while we tell jokes and rib each other while playing pins but they are chips on the underside. It appears that if and when the ball hits the glass due to a hop up a chips appears. They are tiny but still always present. I have an anti glare glass in my tron but not sure what name brand it is but it does not have any chip marks.

Does it completely prevent glare of both dmd and backglass?
And thanks for sharing that observation, will keep in mind.

Not 100% effective at eliminating all reflections but still way better than factory glass.

I have invisiglass on all my games and it helps a lot, but its not perfect. You can see the dmd reflection, but its pretty faint

If it takes the glare off the backglass I will ne happy with that. The glare is so bad I cant see anything lol.

Has anybody done the hum/buzz fix?
Pinwiki mentions a bulletin that is both unavailable on sterns site and pinwiki link is dead

Wrap a couple of sheets of printer paper around the fluorescent bulb. Glare is 100% eliminated

Get Bent Plastic from Pinball Life to get rid of DMD glare.

I found my game much more fun with Titan Low Bounce silicone flipper rubber. The ball is just easier to control. Cheating? Maybe, but I'd do it again.

For non-gameplay mods I switched to Comet frosted warm white 2SMD LEDs and I like them a lot better than incandescent. However, this game really needs LEDOCD.

I plan on a color display and no-glare glass eventually.

I did the clip-on fix. It was trivial to build and install, and it is effective. I'm not worried about the clips coming off, they seem locked on nicely.

The benefit of clipping on pots is you can tune the balance to your liking. Even if you want to modify the board with soldered on parts, starting with the clipped on pot will let you figure out the right values.

I already own several

Only 2 donut shooters remaining! Let me know if you’d like one

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Just did the adjustable pot hum fix mod. Sound is way more manageable now, but I'm still getting a hum. I think I probably need to swap out the fluorescent tube next. Anyone have a link to that mod/instructions?

I hear the hummm through the speakers, and sub.
How about yours?

I checked the bulletin #133 where they talk about this and I have the correct resistors installed, is your board currently using 10 and 33k 1/4w resistors at 106 & 110?

New personal best: I have been able to reach every mini wizard mode before, but never more than 2-3 in the same game, until today! daredevil mania: complete, scratchy's revenge: complete, mystery spot: screwed it up, secret stash: d'oh, alien invasion: locked 4 couldn't lock 5, super jackpots: 4 out of 5. I may never get that close to SDMEW again!

Awesome. Had the game for 2 weeks now.
Love it!!

Installed my Color DMD last night and...AY CARAMBA is it amazing. Highly highly highly recommend adding this mod to your TSPP.

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Was having a great game today and my game reset in the middle of a super mega stacked MBs modes, etc.
Never happened before.

I checked 5v at the driver and cpu and cpu is a little lower than the driver.
Driver is doing about 5.058 v and the cpu is doing 5.01.

So technically all is good?

I checked the pinwiki and the reseated j16 and the 5v connector at the sound board (right above j16) no changes.

I played a little more and did not get any resets but was not expecting any really…

The next thing I was going to do is bridge the currently floating pins at the watchdog chip as it is recommended on pinwiki.

Any other ideas as to what could have caused the reset and what else could I check if it happens again.

The connectors are ok and no burns or anything

Crickets…

Ok then, another question:

What is this orbit supposed to look like, I see some tiny holes by the school building art (speed holes?
and there is a short post with a hard plastic sleeve after the turn.

I uderstand this is to slow the down ball?

All good here?

Also, my game does not have mylar around the bumpers, like most games. This game was huo so not sure maybe all simpsons are like these.
Just checking

Please someone answer this thread lol
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The post in the school loop is normal. It’s to cause some ball turbulence so it rolls into the saucer.

You will also see a clear plastic after the saucer to help the ball roll towards the side rail so it spill out onto the flipper better.

I will be in the club soon, my TSPP should arrive sunday. Really look forward to get this pin, my dream theme !

Enjoy, it’s great

Thanks
What are the holes by the school building for? Wondering if its a defect in the of or just factory.

I do not have those holes in my game, which is an original run from 2003.

Nor I

Looking thru the image gallery some playfields have holes ot the school and some do not. Maybe it was a provision for the screws locations for plastic install similar to the plastic after the saucer eject location to cause the ball to chatter around before entering the saucer?

Thanks for that!
I figured different pf versions. I also noticed that they did something similar before the TV loop.

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If someone can confirm please.
Does your TSPP have mylar in the bumpers?

thank you

Apron 21, 2003 build date on mine; no holes at the school.

Mine has what looks like a Mylar circle over Homer and Mr. Burns.

My wife is quite short and thus can barely see the far end of the playfield due to the glare. Any recommendations on reducing it? Seems like two options are replacing the fluorescent tube and replacing the glass. Anyone have experience/suggestions on those?

This helps prevent glare from the DMD and if you have through lights - https://www.pinballlife.com/bent-plastic.html

PDI glass also helps tremendously, but is pricey.

This could help as well.

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/dmd-glare-eliminators

Ended up making some mylar protectors arouns the bumpers. Looks really good.

I want to make the game play a little faster.
I will polish the playfield today and see if it helps, as I find it a bit lethargic even after waxing.

Granted this is no a game with a lot of flow, but just a little faster would be nice.

Anybody here using a playfield protector? Not interested on the protection but perhaps in the added speed these give.

Playfield protectors suck, they slow the game more than speed it up. Is your game pitched high enough? Mine plays fast, and very fast right after waxing.

they suck yes, but they do not slow the game down. If that was your experience with a protector then there was something wrong with it. They typically made a game so fast it is actually harder than a freshly waxed PF.

My pitch is almost 7 degrees. The game is fast, just want the orbits a little faster.

I don't use protectors, but my friend had one on his LOTR. It was slow as can be and after he pulled it off the game was just flying, way faster. A piece of plastic can't absorb wax, you really can't wax a playfield protector and expect the wax to last long. A bare playfield can accept the wax into the nooks and crannies, and as long as the pin is waxed regularly there's never a need for a protector. The ball just doesn't flow the same either.

100% the opposite experience with the German protectors here. I dont care for them really, I prefer to play without but a friend and I own the same title and his has a protector in it and it flies. He also has the same protector in BKSOR and what is an already very fast game, is almost unmanageable with the protector.

On that note.

I just discovered that this game has COIL power setting, I did not know it did. So I changed it to STRONG or HARD, and well, it is stronger, lol.
I very much prefer the settings in the new stern where you can actually see the power # associated to each coil but in this GEN you only have SOFT - NORMAL and HARD/STRONG and it changes the settings to all coils.

Interesting.

Anybody else running the STRONG setting for coils?

Put up a 45,767,640 tonight. Was so close to retaking GC since I upped the ROM and lost my GC score a month or two ago. Got the yips on Ball 3 at 6 episodes. The Victory Point shots are super awesome. The extra balls from Moes and super jackpot are not too hard to get and I need to make it more of a focus in future games.

It's fun to re-learn this crazy complex game.

Should the monorail switch ALWAYS initiate a call out (whether that be the swooooo noise or Abe or whatever) when you ride it? I'm like 50/50 silence/callout and the door doesn't always reopen so I'm wondering if I need to pop the glass off and fiddle with it.

I always hear the monorail sound, cant recall if I hear any of the characters.

I'm suddenly not remembering very well, but I think the door doesn't open either after the first lock or the first MB. It should close after the VUK fires the ball to the upper playfield.

I just can't recall if there's a callout when you go down the monorail. Part of me is sure there is, but I just can't recall it for certain.

Has anybody experienced total sound lost during a game?
I think something is up with my cpu as the game booted itsself during a game ans another time I lost sound completely.
Turning the game off/on fixed the sound.

Any clues to what to look for?

This only happened to me once and never did it again. I had it on for a long time on a hot day last summer and it did it. I wish that were more helpful.

I think you have to hit the target by the TV to light clean the garage. Then the door will open after coming down the monorail

Funny, i m having the same issue on my restored fishtales

After a short amount of time, all sound will cut off and i have to switch on/off

It only happened once in dozens and dozens of games so not sure how to diagnose this.
If you do come up with ideas, even though these are different systems, let me know.

My first thought is an issue with the sound ROM or the socket.

The other thing is the 5v watchdog chip needs to have pin 3-4 to ground as back then from factory pin 3 was left floating and that makes the system unstable, so might try this eventually.

If anyone watches Deadflip, Jack Danger just put up ~250M tonight.